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Useful shop gadgets.....shop, and "evolving shop" photos......

Mark Hepburn

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Tired of sawdust and chips in your socks and shoes? You can purchase some "shoe bibs" online from one of the big tool houses, or...
Go to Target, purchase infant bibs (come in sets of 2 for about $5), add a bit of velcro so that it can be snugged up well, and there you go.

View attachment 7693

It's important to chose a non-embarrassing print though.


Jeff,

Great idea. I'm gonna get some of the non-embarrassing ones. Like the ones you have :)

Mark
 

john lucas

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I'm thinking a set of waders for fishing and then just put your turning smock on over them. That should keep any and all shavings out. :)
 
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Tired of sawdust and chips in your socks and shoes? You can purchase some "shoe bibs" online from one of the big tool houses, or...
Go to Target, purchase infant bibs (come in sets of 2 for about $5), add a bit of velcro so that it can be snugged up well, and there you go.

View attachment 7693

It's important to chose a non-embarrassing print though.

Their really cute too!!!!!! Do they work well for birthday cake & ice cream?

I wear 8" high lace up boots that my jeans drop down over & don't have a problem with chips.
 
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Mark Hepburn

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For the OCD among us (think Monk):

shopping.jpg

Be honest, does this color clash with my Jet 1642? :D
 

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hockenbery

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Tired of sawdust and chips in your socks and shoes? You can purchase some "shoe bibs" online from one of the big tool houses, or... Go to Target, purchase infant bibs (come in sets of 2 for about $5), add a bit of velcro so that it can be snugged up well, and there you go. <img src="http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7693"/> It's important to chose a non-embarrassing print though.

Jeff,
Good idea. Those chip protectors are popular with some of the turners in our club.

I wear shorts and sports sandals for most of my turning.
They give good support for my feet and back.
I have to remember not to catch a falling tool with my foot.

The chips fall off walking to the house.

When using the chainsaw I boot up.

Have fun
 
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Mark Hepburn

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Not knowing when to quit, I point out that this is a well-known phenomenon to Saints fans....

aints.jpg
 
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Not knowing when to quit, I point out that this is a well-known phenomenon to Saints fans.... <img src="http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7698"/>
WAS not is:). at least not since Drew came along. (22 years I lived in Monroe, I remember these days very well, sadly)
 

Mark Hepburn

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WAS not is:). at least not since Drew came along. (22 years I lived in Monroe, I remember these days very well, sadly)

You're right Lou. Times have changed indeed. I go to most of the home games and some of the away when I can, and it's nice to walk into a stadium knowing you have a better than even chance of winning. :)
 

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One thing that has been helping me with getting those nice smooth transitional curves, is being able to see the profile as I turn. I showed this once before, but thought it is such a valuable jig that I'd show you again. This jig has a white background behind the turning. (made from white shelving) A simple white shelf board can also be placed on the bedways, but requires continual removal of shavings (as seen in the second photo)......the vertical one is better, but does require some effort to make it up. (It would be well worth your while, if you do!) The jig requires no tools to install, as it has a simple sized pine board that fits exactly between the bedways.....easy on, easy off. There is a piece of nylon rope on the back side that allows for hanging on the wall for storage.

I'm aware of other ways of accomplishing the same thing, and invite those who have come up with your own methods, to take a photo and show us what you got!

ooc
 

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hockenbery

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One thing that has been helping me with getting those nice smooth transitional curves, is being able to see the profile as I turn. I showed this once before, but thought it is such a valuable jig that I'd show you again. This jig has a white background behind the turning. (made from white shelving)A simple white shelf board can also be placed on the bedways, but requires continual removal of shavings......this one is better, but does require some effort to make it up. It requires no tools to install. It has a simple sized pine board that fits exactly between the bedways.....easy on, easy off. There is a piece of nylon rope on the back side that allows for hanging on the wall for storage. I'm aware of other ways of accomplishing the same thing, and invite those who have come up with your own methods, to take a photo and show us what you got! ooc

Odie that is a great fixture.

A white background and proper light improve our view of the turning profile.
White walls, white lathes,me hire floors help too. a sheet of white paper does the job too if it stays in place.
The white background is especially valuable in seeing the interrupted cut on natural edge pieces and shaping spheres
Your jig is a nice way to have a white background.
Thanks for sharing.
Al
 

odie

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Odie that is a great fixture.

A white background and proper light improve our view of the turning profile.
White walls, white lathes,me hire floors help too. a sheet of white paper does the job too if it stays in place.
The white background is especially valuable in seeing the interrupted cut on natural edge pieces and shaping spheres
Your jig is a nice way to have a white background.
Thanks for sharing.
Al

Hey, thanks Al.......

Anything white will do, and if you've got a way to hold that white piece of paper in the right spot while you're turning.....that'll work! IMHO, having the visibility while in the act of turning, is a very big plus.....but, stopping what you're doing and using a white backer is helpful as well. I usually shine one of my two headstock lamps on the white.....makes it work even better! At one time, I heard of someone using an old fashioned roll-up white window blind.....thought that was a great idea, but forgot who told me that, so can't credit him.

If I could go back in time, I'd certainly paint my walls white.....but I didn't know any better when I put this shop together......too much hassle to do it now! I do suspect a white background a bit closer than the wall would be a better solution, but I only speak theoretically about that.

Later....... :D

ooc
 
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Odie, that is a GREAT idea!

I have my lathe stationed diagonally in the shop (my silly attempt to protect other things in the even of a blow-out or dismount), and doesn't have a wall behind it.

At times, I have struggled to see the edge curves of items, and have taken to taping a piece of poster board to the table near my head stock. Yours is a simpler and more elegant solution.

Thanks.

Oh, and I did take advantage of the camo shoe bib sale at Rockler. The only reason for that, is that now no one laughs at my horsey and unicorn shoe bibs. I find essentially no difference is use or effectiveness between my home made $5 ones, and the much more expensive commercial type... except of course, as mentioned, the snickers are now only due to my turning prowess, and not my silly shoe covers.
 
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Thanks for the big dust pan idea

Just thought I'd start a thread with photos of different shops, shop photos of "then and now"......along with photos of useful shop gadgets. Any photos and/or "shop talk" is what's being sought in this thread......for general interest sake. Please feel free to participate.

===================================

This is a clean up dust pan that I've been using for a few weeks, and have been very impressed with it's usefulness in cleaning up my shop. It has a couple gallon capacity bucket and the long handle saves all that bending over I've been doing with a regular dust pan......I ain't getting any younger, and this is really helpful to me!

Update: April 14, 2013.......this huge scoop dustpan is fantastic! I'm using it all the time. odie

For years, I've also been using a garden rake and snow shovel for the really big piles of lathe shavings, but this new gadget is going to replace all that! It can set on the floor by itself while you sweep shavings into it.....as you sweep chips into the front with both hands on the broom. When the bucket is full, grab the handle and dump a couple gallons of chips into the trash can. This makes for fast work of the job.....

The bucket has a hinge on it, but I haven't seen the need for that feature yet......maybe someone else will find that useful. I keep it locked into place as shown.

It was purchased at Home Depot for $18.....wish I had something like this years ago.:cool2:

ooc

I may be late to the party but I drove over to HD and picked that big boy up. Thanks again,
John
 

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I may be late to the party but I drove over to HD and picked that big boy up. Thanks again,
John

You bet, John......

I'll bet you are now finding out that big whopping dustpan makes short work out of big piles of lathe shavings!


Since I'm posting....... In keeping with the co-theme of this thread, here is my original Standard 3450rpm 6" grinder that I originally purchased at Napa auto parts in the early 1980's. Here, it is shown wearing the Wolverine jig, and I'm guessing I originally bought that around 1990. I see this pic shows the SG Norton 80gt wheels.....I'm a believer in those wheels, because I still use them. Comment: Although an 8" slow speed grinder is better, the 6" 3450rpm grinder will do just as well.....it's all a matter of technique.

Here also is a photo of my Delta 1825rpm 8" grinder just after I bought it, and after transferring the Wolverine jig over from the 6" grinder. I believe this photo is from 2007. (Yes, I did actually use a 6" 3450rpm grinder for sharpening lathe tools, for close to a quarter century! :(......it's one of those things I probably would still be using if I hadn't finally communicated with other turners!.....)

Last photo is the Delta grinder as it is today.....September 2014. :cool:

ooc
 

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My dust collector rig

This is my first post, so I hope it meets the "standards".

For a long time, I mounted the big gulp scoop on the back end of the banjo of my Powermatic, but I got tired of removing it when turning big stuff. I had found some nice LED lights at Costco and mounted one of them on my tailstock to get plenty of light on my work, and was looking at the parallel arm balancing mechanism. One thing led to another, and I ended up with the dust collector mount in the photos. I used window sash springs to counterbalance the weight, and I can just put the hood anywhere that I need it, or push it out of the way without having to even walk around the lathe. It works really well for me.

David Jones
 

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odie

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This is my first post, so I hope it meets the "standards".

For a long time, I mounted the big gulp scoop on the back end of the banjo of my Powermatic, but I got tired of removing it when turning big stuff. I had found some nice LED lights at Costco and mounted one of them on my tailstock to get plenty of light on my work, and was looking at the parallel arm balancing mechanism. One thing led to another, and I ended up with the dust collector mount in the photos. I used window sash springs to counterbalance the weight, and I can just put the hood anywhere that I need it, or push it out of the way without having to even walk around the lathe. It works really well for me.

David Jones

Of course it does, David....:D

I'm willing to bet your idea will be used by a few others....and, I think that's a great idea for a very convenient dust collector intake.

Question: How do you like the LED lights for your lathe? I just ordered a LED light on a magnet base, but hasn't come yet.

ooc
 
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Sometimes I wish that my lathe was near a wall, so that I could mount things that way. Unfortunately for me,mill have to make due with jamming the big gulp between the headstock and the tool rest with the banjo out the other side.

Boy though, that looks very rugged!
 
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I like the LED lights very much. The ones that I found are 5 watts each and have a daylight spectrum. They don't have a blue or yellow hue.
The one mounted on my tailstock works very well for illuminating the interior of a thin green turning so that I can use the light transmission through the wall to gauge just how thin it is getting.

I just got another LED light from Costco that looks like a 2 tube 4 foot fluorescent strip fixture, but puts out at least twice as much light. I think it was rated at 38 watts. I mounted it directly above the lathe for general lighting.

I have a couple of IKEA LED lights with the small head on a gooseneck that work pretty well, but they are not nearly as bright as the ones I have mounted on the lathe. I was in Costco again a few days ago and they had some LED lights that were 5 watt and had a similar head, but used single tube arms with friction hinges for adjustment. They could probably be adapted for lathe use pretty easily.

David
 
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I picked up this LED light at Home Depot this afternoon, ~ $100. So far I really like it. Do not look directly into the LED panels though. :eek: Worse than looking directly into a camera flash. I use the light while roughing in a small oak bowl. It was nice to be able to lower the light so it shined right into the interior of the bowl while hollowing the blank. So far a real nice addition to the incandescent gooseneck lamp mounted to the tailstock end of the bed.

Bob
 

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odie

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I have a couple of IKEA LED lights with the small head on a gooseneck that work pretty well, but they are not nearly as bright as the ones I have mounted on the lathe. I was in Costco again a few days ago and they had some LED lights that were 5 watt and had a similar head, but used single tube arms with friction hinges for adjustment. They could probably be adapted for lathe use pretty easily.

David

I have one of those IKEA single bulb LED lamps that I mounted to a magnetic base. The original intent was to get the light right inside the interior of bowls with inward slanting walls, but it never worked out very well for that purpose. A couple weeks ago I ordered another lamp to try this concept again.....and this one works better. This one has 20 LEDs on a flexible gooseneck mounted to a magnetic base.....much better. I now have three lamps at the headstock, and a dual 4' fluorescent shop light hanging over the lathe.

The IKEA lamp was now obsolete, and not being used.....and the mental gears turned! After a flash of insight, it's now mounted on my grinder, and replaces a drop light I had been using to clearly see the grind take place on gouges......I can't believe how much improvement this is! The single LED bulb is positioned at the 12 o'clock position just a couple inches away from the work, and directly above the grinding taking place. Wish I had done something like this years ago, because it's a much better way of doing it.

There is also a shot of the accessory holder that normally stays near the tailstock. Items there are those I use frequently.....pencils, backing pads, tool holders, depth gauge, disc replacement tool, measuring jigs, chuck key, reminder, bubble level, wrench, spindle thread guard, banjo hole cover, baton bumper, spare toolrest holders, etc. Everything is nice and handy, and able to withstand a blast of compressed air without flying off and getting lost.

ooc
 

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There is also a shot of the accessory holder that normally stays near the tailstock. Items there are those I use frequently.....pencils, backing pads, tool holders, depth gauge, disc replacement tool, measuring jigs, chuck key, reminder, bubble level, wrench, spindle thread guard, banjo hole cover, baton bumper, spare toolrest holders, etc. Everything is nice and handy, and able to withstand a blast of compressed air without flying off and getting lost.

ooc[/QUOTE]

The holder is neat I just hate to move a tray/holder so I can use the tailstock so I use drawers. Love the fish (JESUS) on the lathe. Is that a plug in the tailstock?IMG_0722.jpg This is on my old lathe have another set on the 3520B.
 

odie

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The holder is neat I just hate to move a tray/holder so I can use the tailstock so I use drawers. Love the fish (JESUS) on the lathe. Is that a plug in the tailstock?View attachment 7903 This is on my old lathe have another set on the 3520B.

Hi Gerald......

Nice looking set-up you have there.....guess you don't need to go far for your most used tools, jigs, and supplies!

I can certainly understand not wanting to move the accessory holder, and opting for drawers instead.....however, it does detach quickly.....just a block underneath to fit between the ways.....lifts right off.

Yes, indeed.....Jesus, being a carpenter, hangs around my shop all the time!

Yep.....just an old cork I use to keep dust from entering the Morse Taper of the tailstock.

Later....

ooc
 

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Jeff,

Great idea. I'm gonna get some of the non-embarrassing ones. Like the ones you have :)

Mark

I like those, but I wear flip flops more often than not in the shop, (I can here the Tifosi screaming about foot protection) more comfortable and the chips slide out. While I don't get protection if I drop a tool on my feet, I just don't do that. The only thing shoes provide is to keep the severed toe in the shoe. I will wash it off and take it to the ER if that happens . But I have a cushioned floor and they are more comfortable.
 
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I will wash it off and take it to the ER if that happens

Don't forget to pack it in ice for the road trip :D
I too work/live in flip-flops, and shorts, have for last 10 years
Like you say, just pay attention to what you're doing, and all is fine, even better as it's way more comfortable ;)
 

hockenbery

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I like those, but I wear flip flops more often than not in the shop, (I can here the Tifosi screaming about foot protection) more comfortable and the chips slide out. While I don't get protection if I drop a tool on my feet, I just don't do that. The only thing shoes provide is to keep the severed toe in the shoe. I will wash it off and take it to the ER if that happens . But I have a cushioned floor and they are more comfortable.

I usually wear sports sandals. They give more support. If I wore flip flops for a day my back would tell me about it for weeks.
The big thing about open toed footwear is to remember not to kick the half log I left in the middle of the shop where it would be out of the way.
:)

I do wear shoes or boots when using the chainsaw and I double tie the laces.
I do need some protection from dropping wood on my foot as this seems to happen 2-3 times a year.
Shoes can make it almost painless some of the time. :)
 

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I like those, but I wear flip flops more often than not in the shop,

I too work/live in flip-flops, and shorts, have for last 10 years

I usually wear sports sandals.

Whatever works for you guys......but, I need my feet and toes covered....no open shoes. It really is uncomfortable to have chips and sawdust mixed in with my feet.

The original discussion revolved around "shoe bibs", and I'm currently using mine to keep out the chips and debris. They have somewhat a design flaw, in they don't form a very good cone shape around your ankles and shoes. I have modified mine to do this, and now am using them regularly. They do a good job at keeping the chips from getting in-between socks and shoes, and snagged on the lacing. They also keep you from tracking the chips into the house. It's a great idea, but the initial design needs to be tweaked a little bit. I did it by folding over one side and tying it off so that it makes the cone shape.

I also have some cut off red sweatpants that go over the calf and cover the shoe. This works even better, but they are not easy to put on, or take off. (A younger person with a more flexible body wouldn't have the problems I have putting them on.)

ooc
 

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odie

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This may not be something that will help many other lathe turners, but it works great for me. I have a sliding steel plate at the top of my headstock which allows me to attach things with magnetic bases at various positions. The steel plate slides over the top of the magnets to various locations, and the magnetic bases can be positioned anywhere on the plate surface. A flat surface on the headstock is required for this option to be viable. The magnets are attached to the headstock with industrial two sided tape......

ko
 

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odie

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Filling cracks and gaps on bowls and other turnings.........

In my opinion, using clear epoxy is the best method for filling cracks and gaps. I use the 5-min, 2-part, clear epoxy. After drying overnight, it's sandable and cuts with lathe tools as well. You can use cellophane tape to mask off any place where you don't want the epoxy. A great tool for mixing epoxy, is an artist's palette knife, available at any artist supply store......get one! Not shown in my photo are medical finger cots. These cots have been great for spreading the epoxy, and pushing it into cracks.....throw away when done. I'm using index cards for mixing epoxy.....the stiffer card is much better than trying to mix on a regular piece of paper.......

ko

You can get an artist's palette knife set on ebay for less than 5 bucks:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Stainl...975?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item19f419443f

You can get the finger cots, 100 for a buck on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-100pcs-...389562181?pt=US_Nail_Care&hash=item4d285b6d45
 

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"Evolving shop photos"

Here is my buffing station just after I made it up in 2007. The other two photos are the buffing station as it is today. As with most things in everyone's shop, evolution is evidence of personal growth. The motor is a 1 1/2hp Leeson I removed from my Australian Woodfast lathe when I upgraded to variable speed. It's more power than is necessary, but it's what I had to make a buffing station, so I used it! It's a hundred times better than the 1/2hp motor I was using! As you can see, there are numerous modifications, and notes on stickers. As I learned how to make the Beall buffing system work better.....I took notes! If those notes are right in front of you each time you buff, you are reminded of what works.

ko
 

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odie

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Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
More info on the Beall buffing method:

For the first few years after I first started using the Beall buffing method, I used latex medical gloves to give myself a better grip on the bowl. This helped immensely to overcome a few times the buffing machine tried to rip the bowl out of my hands! There were several lost bowls when I first started using the Beall system......it was such a heart-sinking feeling to see your finished bowl bounce across the cement floor! After awhile, you'll get used to what works and what doesn't....and how to avoid catastrophes. I believe it's now been a couple of years since I've used the latex gloves.....I've learned well, because of a few disasters.....and those latex gloves!:p

Another important thing I've learned, is to rotate the top of the bowl towards you when doing exterior buffing.....(This, assuming you have a counter-clockwise rotation of the buff itself, and standing on the left side.) This continually moves any residue of the buffing compounds directly in the path of the buffing wheel.

Use the Tripoli (EEE) and White Diamond buffing compounds very sparingly, and replenish often. This keeps the compound lightly distributed, and from smearing on the surface. There is nothing worse than overloading with Tripoli and White Diamond. This will plague your efforts until you figure out why it isn't working for you.

When doing the interior, I have a platform that raises my body up a few inches, and I work directly in front of the buffing wheel. Doing this allows me to hold the bowl at waist level and facilitates my body AND hands to work together giving a smooth circular motion to the bowl itself. The bowl is never held at a perfect 90° to the motor shaft. It's always tilted so the motor shaft is pointed away from the bowl to varying degrees. By doing this, and assuming you have prepared your bowl to near perfection, it propels the final step into a finish near perfection.

ko
 

odie

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Thanks Odie for starting this thread and to all those who shared. A newish turner in North Carolina.

Hey, you bet Dan......:D

You know, I've said this many times before.....I'm not here to show or teach others, I'm here strictly for my own personal benefit, even when it appears as though I'm just passing along information. When I explain things, it makes me stronger in my own thoughts.....sometimes more resolute, and sometimes more "visionary" in my own thinking, simply because I'm here typing those thoughts, trying to make things clear to everyone reading them. In that process, my own thoughts become more clear to myself! Not only that, but these forums have inspired me to consider other viewpoints.....and, ultimately have caused change in my own way of doing things. That very thing has happened several times since I started this thread! Besides that, having other's input have caused alteration of my ways in such ways that neither he or I were thinking of.....but, that input from the other person was necessary for the "thought direction" to materialize.

Hope that makes sense......but, the bottom line is, I have made many improvements to my own turning since I have, and because I have been a participant in these AAW forums.......:cool: very :cool: !!!!!

ko
 

odie

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Since this summer, I've been using a 3M pot scrubber on the top surface of my tool rests when exchanging for another tool rest. That is, if I see any gunk or residue sticking to the top surface. What I've done is attach a retractable ID card/magnetic key card retainer to a magnet with hot glue. I can place this anywhere on my lathe, but it's been pretty much constantly attached near my speed control unit. Usually this will do the trick, except for the most hardened crud. As long as the residue isn't allowed to dry for any length of time, it works very well.

ko
 

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