• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Seasoned logs

Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
hey all,

Recently I’ve been collecting green logs and sealing the ends for later use. Should I cut them into blanks right away and seal them, or keeping them as logs is fine? Mostly mesquite.

I also got few calls about mesquite trees and one ash tree that were cut down a year ago and still full length. Are these good to use or should I avoid them?
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
You normally want to cut the logs in half down the center to expose the grain and allow
the 1/2 log to slowly dry and relieve the internal stress of the log while drying. If you leave
the log to dry whole it will split and crack from internal stresses in the log form.
Depending on the items you want to turn you can process the log into bowl blanks, spindle blanks, and various sized blanks depending on the desired size you need and the size of log you have.
Smaller pieces can be used for pen blanks and shaving brush blanks etc.
When harvesting a tree that has been cut for a while you need to cut off the end grain that has cracks and checking until you get to "clean" wood that has not started to dry. You also need to seal any end grain as quickly as possible after cutting to size to prevent cracking and checking from starting.
Processing wood into larger billets provides for larger items to be turned but will also take longer for these billets to dry all of the way. A larger billet can always be cut into smaller pieces, however smaller pieces will dry quickly and provide usable billets to turn for smaller projects within a year or two.
There is a trade off with processing your logs into various sized billets, you need to look at each piece
and determine how to harvest the wood and provide billets with interesting grain for the finished piece.
If you plan on making segmenting bowls you might want to slab some of the logs. The tools you have available will also determine the easiest method for processing your logs. There are a number of videos on YouTube that detail processing wood into billets from logs and the methods used.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I see people with logs in their stash and they cut it to size/blank when they want to turn, but I don’t know how long they had these logs.

I’ve been avoiding trees that were cut a year for fear that they may not be good for turning, I don’t have access to them to cut into them.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,436
Likes
2,792
Location
Eugene, OR
For fresh green logs, I keep them whole and on and under heavy duty tarps. I lost too many blanks if I slabbed it all up first, and I don't lose as much to end checking. Most of what I work is Madrone which is really crack prone. It depends on your local weather though. I have heard of logs being stored outside in Colorado for several years with no problems.

Only real problem with trees down for a year or so is big infestation. I have found those logs to be more of a cut it up and turn it ASAP. Once cut into log sections, they really like to split.

robo hippy
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
The other consideration is how long are the "logs"?
When trees are cut down they usually cut the logs into manageable sized pieces
that they can handle. The length is usually about the same as the diameter for larger diameter logs.
Smaller diameter logs can be longer and easily moved with equipment used for "logging".
It helps to have a truck or trailer set up to handle the long logs or the short large diameter logs.
Freshly cut logs are very heavy and trying to man handle the bigger logs can quickly cause
back injuries that will come back to haunt you for the remainder of your life. Another common
injury with this type of work is rotator cuff injuries. A cable winch or jib crane mounted on the trailer
or truck bed makes quick work of loading these heavy loads. This small investment will pay for itself
quickly when you consider the cost of seeing a doctor for back or shoulder problems.
As Robo mentioned the long logs have a longer "shelf" life as the moisture takes longer to exit the
ends of the long log compared to shorter pieces that will dry quickly. The other consideration is the
environment of the area you reside in. The lower the humidity in your area will determine how long
you have before you should finish processing your logs. A dry desert environment will quickly draw the moisture from a freshly cut tree, whereas a high humidity environment will slow the drying process. Sealing the end grain will increase the amount of usable wood from your logs either way. Once you
cut the logs into billets you want to seal the end grain as quickly as possible, the same day if possible.
Don't cut anymore wood then you can process from start to finish in one day, if you let it sit for a few days
you increase the risk of cracking and checking.
 

hockenbery

Forum MVP
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Messages
8,592
Likes
4,888
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Website
www.hockenberywoodturning.com
I have no experience with mesquite.

Logs shrink around the growth rings more than they shrink across them so radial splits are inevitable if the pith is left in a log larger than about 4" i diameter. I have dried many holly limbs for ornament balls in the 3-4" range. Almost every 6" limb develops a radial split.

Whole logs 8-20+ feet. It will take 6 month to years for radial cracks to happen.
If you can move, store, and the easily cut blanks from them keeping whole logs works pretty well for 4-6 months. except that the sapwood will discolor within a week or so. When you want blank cut off and discard about 4" off the end of the log because it will be checked.


1/2 logs short lengths - the 1/2 rings can shrink and leave a peak in the center of the once flat cut side.
I can't deal with whole logs so I bring home 1/2 logs about 20"-30" long semi-planned for hollow forms or bowls.
I anchor seal the ends. If I want the the nice sap wood I try to turn them within a week or cut a blank and pop it in the freezer inside enough plastic bags to keep,it from freeze drying.

Usually the 1/2 logs with anchor seal will get end checking less than 2" on each end.
I usually plan on one or two blanks from each 1/12 log. I try o cut blanks I can turn within a day or two close to size and put them in plastic bags

Sapwood will stay nice a little longer if you take off the bark. too much trouble on most woods. Black walnut is usually easy.

The great thing about fresh wood is that the phone will ring again....
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
I have lots of experience with mesquite and my opinion is that you ought to turn it while it is green. You can turn it to completion with the possibility of a very tiny bit of warping or rough turn using a 5% factor rather than the usual 10%. It will dry very fast ... or at least it does here.

If you wait until it is dry, it will be rather hard and abrasive on your tools compared to most native hardwoods. The main thing that I don't like about turning dry mesquite is the dust. If you don't use adequate respiratory protection it can cause headaches, swollen sinuses, sneezing, and coughing ... in my experience when I was clueless about dust masks and powered respirators. I used a Dust-Bee-Gone which is comparable to not using anything. At the very least I would recommend using a N100 dust mask.

Expect preexisting cracks to be the norm with mesquite... ring shake is the most common type. Bark inclusions are also common. Sometimes what appears to be one solid piece of wood is actually a bunch of interlocking pieces looking for the opportunity to unlock ... and you're holding the key. I listen carefully for changes in sound and use lots of epoxy, Inlace, and CA.

Another thing about letting whole logs of mesquite dry is there are borers just under the bark. As the wood dries they will go deeper into the wood.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
I have lots of experience with mesquite and my opinion is that you ought to turn it while it is green. You can turn it to completion with the possibility of a very tiny bit of warping or rough turn using a 5% factor rather than the usual 10%. It will dry very fast ... or at least it does here.

If you wait until it is dry, it will be rather hard and abrasive on your tools compared to most native hardwoods. The main thing that I don't like about turning dry mesquite is the dust. If you don't use adequate respiratory protection it can cause headaches, swollen sinuses, sneezing, and coughing ... in my experience when I was clueless about dust masks and powered respirators. I used a Dust-Bee-Gone which is comparable to not using anything. At the very least I would recommend using a N100 dust mask.

Expect preexisting cracks to be the norm with mesquite... ring shake is the most common type. Bark inclusions are also common. Sometimes what appears to be one solid piece of wood is actually a bunch of interlocking pieces looking for the opportunity to unlock ... and you're holding the key. I listen carefully for changes in sound and use lots of epoxy, Inlace, and CA.

Another thing about letting whole logs of mesquite dry is there are borers just under the bark. As the wood dries they will go deeper into the wood.

That is great info Bill thanks so much, I was about to get a truck load of Mesquite to use for a while but now I’m not so sure I should get it. I have few pieces that would last me couple of months. I will split them and seal them, if they become too difficult to turn, I’ll look for fresh ones.

Thanks for the tip on the mask, I don’t usually wear one while turning, only while sanding. I will wear it with these.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
I have no experience with mesquite.

Logs shrink around the growth rings more than they shrink across them so radial splits are inevitable if the pith is left in a log larger than about 4" i diameter. I have dried many holly limbs for ornament balls in the 3-4" range. Almost every 6" limb develops a radial split.

Whole logs 8-20+ feet. It will take 6 month to years for radial cracks to happen.
If you can move, store, and the easily cut blanks from them keeping whole logs works pretty well for 4-6 months. except that the sapwood will discolor within a week or so. When you want blank cut off and discard about 4" off the end of the log because it will be checked.


1/2 logs short lengths - the 1/2 rings can shrink and leave a peak in the center of the once flat cut side.
I can't deal with whole logs so I bring home 1/2 logs about 20"-30" long semi-planned for hollow forms or bowls.
I anchor seal the ends. If I want the the nice sap wood I try to turn them within a week or cut a blank and pop it in the freezer inside enough plastic bags to keep,it from freeze drying.

Usually the 1/2 logs with anchor seal will get end checking less than 2" on each end.
I usually plan on one or two blanks from each 1/12 log. I try o cut blanks I can turn within a day or two close to size and put them in plastic bags

Sapwood will stay nice a little longer if you take off the bark. too much trouble on most woods. Black walnut is usually easy.

The great thing about fresh wood is that the phone will ring again....

Thanks Al,

I will try to turn them into blanks this weekend, the rest I will split in half and seal them. I can see some cracking already so I need to move quick.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
For fresh green logs, I keep them whole and on and under heavy duty tarps. I lost too many blanks if I slabbed it all up first, and I don't lose as much to end checking. Most of what I work is Madrone which is really crack prone. It depends on your local weather though. I have heard of logs being stored outside in Colorado for several years with no problems.

Only real problem with trees down for a year or so is big infestation. I have found those logs to be more of a cut it up and turn it ASAP. Once cut into log sections, they really like to split.

robo hippy

Thanks Robo,

I was watching how you prep the blanks and that is where I saw that you stored the logs whole.
 

Emiliano Achaval

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 14, 2015
Messages
3,307
Likes
4,226
Location
Maui, Hawaii
Website
hawaiiankoaturner.com
I have lots of experience with mesquite and my opinion is that you ought to turn it while it is green. You can turn it to completion with the possibility of a very tiny bit of warping or rough turn using a 5% factor rather than the usual 10%. It will dry very fast ... or at least it does here.

If you wait until it is dry, it will be rather hard and abrasive on your tools compared to most native hardwoods. The main thing that I don't like about turning dry mesquite is the dust. If you don't use adequate respiratory protection it can cause headaches, swollen sinuses, sneezing, and coughing ... in my experience when I was clueless about dust masks and powered respirators. I used a Dust-Bee-Gone which is comparable to not using anything. At the very least I would recommend using a N100 dust mask.

Expect preexisting cracks to be the norm with mesquite... ring shake is the most common type. Bark inclusions are also common. Sometimes what appears to be one solid piece of wood is actually a bunch of interlocking pieces looking for the opportunity to unlock ... and you're holding the key. I listen carefully for changes in sound and use lots of epoxy, Inlace, and CA.

Another thing about letting whole logs of mesquite dry is there are borers just under the bark. As the wood dries they will go deeper into the wood.
Bill, I had a 100% blockage of my sinus last year. Almost had surgery. Doing better now... I wear a Dust Bee Gone all the time now. Is that a false feeling of security?? You got me all worried now..
 
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
2,051
Likes
352
Location
Martinsville, VA
Emiliano....Bill is correct...you have to protect yourself....Trend Airsheild is one....their are others....a local longtime woodworker had a shop design that he opened a window and had a fan blowing across him to turning on lathe and out the window. Try to find sometime to 0.1 micron....trend is 0.3 but much better than mask.....expect $$$$$$
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
Bill, I had a 100% blockage of my sinus last year. Almost had surgery. Doing better now... I wear a Dust Bee Gone all the time now. Is that a false feeling of security?? You got me all worried now..

I used one for quite a while before it occurred to me that I was having all sorts of respiratory problems and when I blew my nose I would blow out half a mesquite log. Meanwhile there was hardly any dust on the DBG mask. They used to make all sorts of claims including filtering to five microns, but I noticed that they no longer make any claims, but instead have testimonials. All the harmful dust is smaller than five microns. I finally connected the dots and started using real dust protection. I used N100 masks with an exhalation valve, but they sometimes fogged my glasses and face shield. I finally bit the bullet in 2006 and bought the 3M Airstream powered respirator. I'm very glad that I did. It is comfortable to wear although a bit noisy since the blower motor is in the helmet. Earmuffs or plugs do a good job of suppressing the noise, but the noise doesn't bother me so I don't use them.
 
Joined
Jul 5, 2016
Messages
469
Likes
244
Location
San Antonio, TX
My challenge is that I do it for fun, and limited to Saturday mornings so I usually do 1 to 3 turnings a month if weather permits since I turn outdoors. I wanted to get logs so that I can do deeper hollow forms, blanks for sale tend to be for shallow bowls 2-5” thick. I have enough now to keep me busy for couple of months, I will stop looking for wood until I finish what I have that way they won’t dry.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
For smaller bowls say 10" or under what I do is cut the wood and then seal all the end grain by dipping it in molten wax. I use canning wax and then heat it in an old electric skillet. I set the temperature just hot enough to melt the wax. Don't get it anywhere near a flame, the flashpoint is 450 degrees f. or somewhere near there. It melts at around 180 so that's plenty save. I have found that I can roll larger blanks in the wax. Ones that fit in my skillet which is about 8 or 10" I just set them in and pull them back out. This is much faster than painting end grain sealer and seems to work really well for storing bowl blanks. I tend to get wood all at once and since I don't turn many bowls it sits and goes bad if I don't harvest it immediately and this has been the fastest way.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
A "Fry Daddy" oil cooker has an adjustable thermostat and the lid seals the wax until the next time
you need to seal wood. The hot melted wax does a really good job in sealing end grain of wood.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
Anchorseal works fine, many of the wood billet suppliers use wax as a sealer.
Wax is a fairly inert product with no concerns of chemicals etc.
If I run short I can go to any hardware store and pick up a few pounds of canning wax.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
So anchorseal 2 is not enough?

Anchorseal (either original or 2) is just fine. It is my preferred method of sealing end grain. My turning club buys it in 55 gallon drums and then sells it to members for about $10 per gallon. It's a lot better than the typical retail price. Anchorseal creates a semi permeable barrier to moisture leaving the log so that it doesn't dry too fast and at the same time doesn't completely block moisture from evaporating. My concern about using paraffin canning wax is that it might completely seal the log and lead to mold ruining the wood. I've had that happen with very wet soft maple that was sealed too well.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
Messages
935
Likes
241
Location
Newberg, OR: 20mi SW of Portland: AAW #21058
Anchorseal (either original or 2) is just fine. It is my preferred method of sealing end grain. My turning club buys it in 55 gallon drums and then sells it to members for about $10 per gallon. It's a lot better than the typical retail price. Anchorseal creates a semi permeable barrier to moisture leaving the log so that it doesn't dry too fast and at the same time doesn't completely block moisture from evaporating. My concern about using paraffin canning wax is that it might completely seal the log and lead to mold ruining the wood. I've had that happen with very wet soft maple that was sealed too well.

My chapter does the same thing.

I use Anchorseal frequently, however, for anyone using it to coat outdoor-stored wood, be aware that it does degrade over a month or two and the wood will begin to dry and crack the same as if it weren’t coated at all. In my opinion, all of the water/wax sealers are a short-term solution. When I have to buy myself extended time, I will double or triple coat with Anchorseal. Also, keep the wood away from direct sun and wind exposure.
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
2,432
Likes
1,850
Location
Bozeman, MT
Fadi,
You can also put green blanks in a lawn and leaf sized plastic bag or wrap them in plastic film, and dramatically slow the drying process. Depending on your climate, you may need to use within a certain time frame or periodically open the bag to let the accumulated water out. In our dry climate, we don't have to do any messing. The plastic wrap is giant saran wrap made for moving and shipping and binding boards, and is now available in big box stores and stores with shipping supplies. We've had blanks wrapped or bagged for a year and when we take them out, they're about half dry and most still turn like green. Yes, you can grow some mold, but it generally is just on the outer surface and usually isn't associated with rot. In our dry climate. Your mileage may vary.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
Anchorseal is a good product. I find to really seal the wood I have to put on 2 coats and if I want to coat both ends have to either lay it down or wait until the first coat dries to flip it over for the other end. When I use Wax I just dip one end, hold it up for about the count of 5, flip it over dip the other end and then put the wood away. Much faster than Anchorseal. Anchorseal if far better for logs because you never get mold underneath it which can happen occasionally with wax. It's just much slower to use, but then did you ever try to dip a 50lb log into molten wax. Not an easy thing to do so you grab the Anchorseal.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Messages
2,326
Likes
1,105
Location
Nebraska
You can easily use a cheap wood handle natural bristle brush to apply hot melted wax
onto wood log ends. Depending on the wood you usually need to brush several coats of wax
onto the end grain as it will soak in the hot wax into the end grain readily. Dipping is by far the
easiest way to seal wood billets but the bigger pieces usually require a brush.
 

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
Anchorseal is a good product. I find to really seal the wood I have to put on 2 coats and if I want to coat both ends have to either lay it down or wait until the first coat dries to flip it over for the other end. When I use Wax I just dip one end, hold it up for about the count of 5, flip it over dip the other end and then put the wood away. Much faster than Anchorseal. Anchorseal if far better for logs because you never get mold underneath it which can happen occasionally with wax. It's just much slower to use, but then did you ever try to dip a 50lb log into molten wax. Not an easy thing to do so you grab the Anchorseal.

I paint both ends with Anchorseal at the same time just leaving the log horizontal. Sometimes I will apply a second coat a day or week later on wood that has large pores if I think that it needs it or sometimes I just want to use up the Anchorseal that I have in the coffee can and I will redo some wood whether it needs it or not. Because I'm sloppy, I get some drips of Anchorseal on the driveway, but in the hot Texas summer heat it just soaks into the concrete and disappears. (summer is from March to November :D)
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,321
Likes
3,576
Location
Cookeville, TN
My typical discipline probably varies from most. I tend to get longs when I have the least amount of time to process them. I will put garbage bags over the ends and if they are short enough stack them on the other end on the ground. That plastic falls apart pretty quick due to UV. I then wrap stretch wrap around the ends. That holds up quite a while. If possible I will try to get the logs off the ground and definitely cover them to keep wind and sun off. That usually gives me more like a year although i still have bug problems here in Tennessee. When I do get the time I cut them up into potential blanks and seal the end grain. For bowl blanks and hollow vessels I try to coat all end grain areas or if it's wood that checks easily I will try and coat the whole blank. That has worked for me. I don't do a lot of green wood turning so I have to spend a lot more time trying to save the wood than many people would.
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2005
Messages
935
Likes
241
Location
Newberg, OR: 20mi SW of Portland: AAW #21058
I tend to get longs when I have the least amount of time to process them.

Me too! Funny that.

After I get logs I try to do the initial slicing and dicing pretty soon even though I may not get the wood on the lathe for a few days or weeks. I will often resort to plastic bags after I’ve rough sawn blanks before I can lug them into the shop to turn them. (I have a couple of those big, heavy-duty dust collector bags that have developed small holes.) I don’t like spending the $$ on Anchorseal or take the time to try to coat all the endgrain of octagonal pieces so make a stack of the blanks and slip a plastic bag over the top. Around these parts, for more than 1/2 of the year you don’t need any kind of slow-drying mechanism given the rain so this is only needed for the dryer months.
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
1,173
Likes
611
Location
Evanston, IL USA
I used one for quite a while before it occurred to me that I was having all sorts of respiratory problems and when I blew my nose I would blow out half a mesquite log. Meanwhile there was hardly any dust on the DBG mask.


Bill, When you say "I used one for a while..." what are you referring to, the Trend Airshield, or what?
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Messages
1,173
Likes
611
Location
Evanston, IL USA
I paint both ends with Anchorseal at the same time just leaving the log horizontal. Sometimes I will apply a second coat a day or week later on wood that has large pores if I think that it needs it or sometimes I just want to use up the Anchorseal that I have in the coffee can and I will redo some wood whether it needs it or not. Because I'm sloppy, I get some drips of Anchorseal on the driveway, but in the hot Texas summer heat it just soaks into the concrete and disappears. (summer is from March to November :D)

I purchased my Anchorseal direct in 5 gal pails. (For some crazy reason, they don't charge shipping for destinations east of the Mississippi). So the last time I ordered the gal says "What color do you want?" Turns out that you can get it a load of different colors, and I can tell you from experience, unless you need a color, don't do it. It stains driveways, clothes, shoes, whatever, permanently.
 
Joined
Oct 13, 2016
Messages
1,053
Likes
1,463
Location
Rainy River District Ontario Canada
Getting sealing and dividing or not logs, is something I have done for a long time already, buying and having it shipped is just not economic or even needed here in Ontario with all kinds of tree species.

Yes there are trees that do not grow here, but that is so in every area on earth I believe.

Free freshly cut logs are all around for free,, free wood is good :)

If the logs aren’t too thick and heavy I will keep them as long as possible, I Anchor seal the ends, often again after it has dried up, and I would store them in my shop and then process them as fast as possible.
log storage.jpg

I’d be standing on a thick layer of shavings, only cleaning them out when done with the rough turning, all the rough turned pieces are stuck into a brown paper bag and set away in a cool draft free place, and checked a few times the first week or two, just to make sure there is no fungus growing on the wood.
some in and some out of the bag.jpg

Of course some of the wood I would have to parten up because of where it was or for the size of them, though I do like the larger logs, as I find the grain in them are usually nicer than the small logs.
Black Walnut.jpg Rough cut blanks.jpg large logs.jpg

On a ocasion or two I got so much wood that I could not rough that all in the next couple of days and in those times I would over the sealed wood also put a plastic bag, usually I would use some painters tape to get the bags tight over the logs.
packed blog blanks.jpg

And yes there was some of those logs that sat just too long, like about a year and they would split, even when sealed and wrapped in plastic, these get made into spindle blanks or smaller bowl blanks if they didn’t get into rotten wood, some wood will do that while other do not,
Walnut sealed and plastic wrapped after one year.jpg
 
Last edited:

Bill Boehme

Administrator
Staff member
Beta Tester
TOTW Team
Joined
Jan 27, 2005
Messages
12,886
Likes
5,169
Location
Dalworthington Gardens, TX
Website
pbase.com
I purchased my Anchorseal direct in 5 gal pails. (For some crazy reason, they don't charge shipping for destinations east of the Mississippi). So the last time I ordered the gal says "What color do you want?" Turns out that you can get it a load of different colors, and I can tell you from experience, unless you need a color, don't do it. It stains driveways, clothes, shoes, whatever, permanently.

That's really interesting ... and good to know.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
Messages
5,436
Likes
2,792
Location
Eugene, OR
One cheap solution for end sealing was to use laytex paint and then while the paint is still wet, slap some plastic on the paint. Good cheap seal, and the paint keeps the paint from drying out.

robo hippy
 
Back
Top