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Elliptical flute shape

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At a recent symposium, Stuart Batty discussed flute shapes and emphasized the 'elliptical' shape as the best for his 40/40 grind. My impression was that this shape of flute is different from a parabolic cross section. Can someone explain how the two shapes compare? Or tell me I misunderstood and that they're really the same.
 

Bill Boehme

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They're so close at the size we're talking about that it is meaningless to get mired down in the minutiae of difference between the two. Besides, once the flute has been polished to remove the machine marks, the flute will be neither parabolic nor elliptical. There is not just a single shape for either a parabola or an ellipse, but a whole family of curves for each.

It's a lot like golf clubs and fishing rods. We can get lost in the details and forget that it's the person holding the tool that makes the difference.
 
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Pretty much what Bill said. I do prefer more open flutes to more closed/V flutes. This is probably because I hold my tools level when turning and cut with the nose rather than dropping the handle, so the more round the flute is, the better I like it. Doug Thompson's V flute is pretty open for a V, not like Glaser V which was really steep. I like his U flute as well. Stuart used to comment that the V flutes had a problem in sharpening because you always get a dip in the wing near the nose. This is because you need to hit the nose, then quickly flip it onto the side for the wing. If you roll at the same speed through the sharpening, you get that dip.

I am really liking the parabolic flute shapes. Some times they just seem to cut better, and I don't know why. I use a 45/45 grind, compared to Stuart's 40/40, and don't use swept back gouges at all. I do like the V10 and M42 HSS for my tools. The edge holding difference between HSS and them is huge. Recently bought a 'signature' parabolic fluted gouge, and couldn't figure out why it got dull so quickly. M2.....

robo hippy
 
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Bill and Robo hit it on the head, in my experience. I would add that I also like a wide open flute and I'm a fan of swept back gouges. I'm a sheer cutting fan, so I cut with my handle as low as the toolrest allows in many cases. I sharpen at 45-50°

I recently picked up a 3/4" roughing gouge from D-Way. The flute is wide and deep, more than any other manufacturer I've seen. You can almost roll a regular marble down the flute. I love the steep wings for the sharp angle for both roughing and leaving a remarkably clean surface on my final roughing cut.
 

john lucas

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It's a lot like golf clubs and fishing rods. We can get lost in the details and forget that it's the person holding the tool that makes the difference.

Absolutely Bill. Glen Lucas raved over how bad the V shaped gouges were. I've been using mine ever since Doug Thompson started selling them and love them. Yes you can get a dip in the edge when you grind it because of that shape so just grind more accurately. He based his opinion on how hard or easy it was for beginning students to achieve the proper grind. In my experience students can screw up any grind. It's more important to teach them how to properly shape tools with a grinder and develop that "touch". If you do that then flute shape doesn't matter. Far more important how you use the tool.
 
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I have been to and hosted many hands on and I have never seen a pro stop and say "I cannot use this tool because it is not a parabolic flute". A pro no matter what shtick they use to sell their own stuff can grab any flute shaped gouge and cut like you would not believe. They are masters of the cut of which tool shape means little. I myself cannot see any difference between Doug Thompson's V shape and a parabolic of another brand.
 

john lucas

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I intend to buy a U shaped gouge from Doug one of these days so I can really compare. I do have a U shaped odd brand tool but it's not the same shape as Doug's U. The wings are really thin on that old gouge and that's really useful. I grind a long wing on that tool and then use it like a skew for the outside of bowls. I do a pull cut with the handle real low. You wouldn't believe how this tool cuts. Edge doesn't last long but it cuts great while it is sharp.
 
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Doug's U flute doesn't take a swept back grind very well. Or at least when I used to use the swept back grind, I never could get a 'proper' shape with it. I have heard others comment the same thing, so it isn't just me. Well, I don't think so any way. I guess it does make an excellent BOB tool, but I prefer the fluteless gouges and detail gouges because I can roll them up on edge for a higher shear cut angle.

John, students can screw up any grind, and so can I... Both Dave Schweitzer (D Way) and Doug do not make or sell the parabolic flute shapes for their gouges. Dave says more people have problems getting a proper grind on them. Doug feels that if you have a slight arc in the wing, it does the same thing as a parabolic shape. It dose look the same head on, but in use, it doesn't cut the same. No idea why...

I have wondered about what it is about gouges for shear scraping and why some people prefer them rather than using scrapers like I do. I have been playing with a lot of variations of that lately. M42, V10, M2, honed, burnished, 600 grit burrs, and even totally honed off burr. I am guessing my reason for preference towards scrapers is that I don't have to roll the tool over so far. The only other difference I can think of is the gouge wing has a more acute tool angle than the scraper, say maybe 30/30 compared to 70/0 or is it 70/90?

robo hippy
 
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Out of curiosity, I took one of each brand of my bowl gouges and measured the wing angles. Which immediately created a problem. When one of the Superstars is advocating a particular angle, how do they measure? It's really hard to measure the actual angle of the steel, due to the short depth the flute allows, and also the angle changes if the flute has a curved shape on the side. So I also measured the angle of the wing referenced against the top of the flute. Given the concensus of previous comments that the shape of the flute isn't critical to you, this point may be moot, but which measurement do you suppose Stuart refers to in his 40/40 grind?

Part two of my investigation was really surprising. I looked at each gouge end on to assess the shape of the flute. The selection of gouges in the study revealed my garage sale mentality, as I had a sample of Hurricane, P&N, Hamlet, Taylor, Thompson, and Crown. The shapes were all over the place, as were the widths and the depths. Since I am way more than 1 tool away from greatness, the variation might actually create a difference in my hands, when changing from one to another. The British tools were fairly similar in depth and shape of flute.

I do notice that one of the tools cuts better for me than the others and 2 cut worse. The P&N has a very deep U shaped flute and has never felt right to me, but it makes a nice bottom feeder gouge. The other less comfortable gouge is Chinese M2 and I suspect the problem is that it dulls very quickly. My favorite gouge is a 3/8" powdered metal gouge, and it could simply be staying sharp longer or have less resistance due to the smaller size/shorter bevel.

Writing this out, I realize what I should do--pick one brand and stick with it. But what if it's lack of M42 that's keeping me from greatness? I think you all should take up a collection so I can afford to buy a Baldor grinder with a pair of CBN wheels and a full quiver of ultramodern steel tools. I will do extensive research and report my findings.
 

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Well I'm still testing but the type of metal doesn't change how sharp it gets. They all get to the same sharpness if you take the time to do it. Some do hold edges longer than others but of the high end tools, Cyrogenic, M42, V11 etc, it's pretty subtle. Ideally you should sharpen before they get that dull anyway.
 
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Well, I have gone off the deep end with experimenting lately. Comments from Tom Wirsing, and watching Eric Loffstrom, and Stuart, and others.... For sure I will stick with either M42 or V10. I recently bought a 'name brand' parabolic fluted gouge to try out the flute shape. I did sharpen it to 'name' specs, and thought some thing was wrong with it because it didn't cut well for very long. A couple more sharpenings, and I figured out it was standard M2.... Huge difference in edge durability. I have said for years that the 'stays sharp 5 times longer' means that you get a 'working' edge for a much longer time, but I still prefer a fresh edge for finish cuts. One friend who has turned myrtle wood trays for 25 or so years at about 700 plus per year, said he couldn't tell any edge durability or sharpness differences between the two, which agreed with my findings. I have heard claims that one can be made sharper than the other, but never noticed it. It is more depending on how fine of a grit and honing you do than the metal. Some are easier to get to the scary sharp level than others.

Then there are scraper burrs..... Eric made the comment that you get different burrs on V10 and M42. So, another whole round of experimenting. 80, 180, 600, 1000 grit, honed till there is no burr, honed till there is no burr and then burnished... Thus far, no significant difference between 80 and 180. Big difference going up to 600 and 1000, both of which are pretty similar. The burnished burr (I always do it by hand, not the Veritas burnisher thing which tends to 'overburnish') makes a far better/sharper edge for shear scraping than the others, and it is very durable, so will work for roughing. The totally honed scraper edge really is interesting in that it has a skew sharp edge, but not the included angles, but can leave a very clean surface in figured wood bowls, which is supposedly impossible even to me the scraper psycho. I have yet to put a micro/very light burnished burr to the test for the same cuts...

Then there are negative rake scrapers.... Another animal.... Earlier thoughts were that I was cutting way past the live of the burr, and after a long phone talk with Tom Wirsing, "if you have to push at all, it is dull". 20/20 like Stuart? 22 1/2 by 22 1/2 like Tom? 33/33 like Glenn Lucas? About 60/30 with a burnished burr like Eric? The previous acute ones with a very light burnished burr.....

Well, not is it out to the shop, or in to watch College football and play my guitar....

robo hippy
 

Dennis J Gooding

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Well I'm still testing but the type of metal doesn't change how sharp it gets. They all get to the same sharpness if you take the time to do it. Some do hold edges longer than others but of the high end tools, Cyrogenic, M42, V11 etc, it's pretty subtle. Ideally you should sharpen before they get that dull anyway.

John, I do not know at what degree of sharpness it happens, but I understand that at some point grain size of the steel begins to limit the sharpness that can be achieved.
 

odie

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I have been to and hosted many hands on and I have never seen a pro stop and say "I cannot use this tool because it is not a parabolic flute". A pro no matter what shtick they use to sell their own stuff can grab any flute shaped gouge and cut like you would not believe. They are masters of the cut of which tool shape means little. I myself cannot see any difference between Doug Thompson's V shape and a parabolic of another brand.

Good comment, Bill.......

The one thing all flute shapes and different ways of grinding them is......they all have a cutting edge. If that cutting edge is presented to the wood well, it will cut well......and, like the other Bill mentioned: It has more to do with the hands that hold it, than anything else.

-----odie-----
 

john lucas

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Dennis At 5000X magnification you can start to see the structure of the steel. I just had 3 tools photographed to see which one is sharpest and they were so sharp we didn't see any difference until 2500X magnification. In Alan Lacers tests showing how honing improves the edge you could see the mountain peaks of the edge at 200X. On my edges at 1000X all you could see was still a straight edge. Going to have a Hunter Carbide tool that's brand new photographed in the next week or so. I thought it would be a good comparison because they come with a mirror looking edge straight from the factory.
 
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Great conversation. I agree to a point on the idea that flute shape doesn't matter.

My take is that a particular flute shape enhances (or limits) a particular grind.

The grind where flute shape matters most for me is the swept back grind, especially those with longer wings. By simplest definition, a cutting edge is the intersection of two planes. When I put a swept back grind on different shapes of flutes, the shape of the wings changes, both in geometry and angle of the cutting edge.

Note that the cutting edge on the nose doesn't change. It's only on the wings, and again: the longer the wings, the greater the difference caused by flute shape further out on the wings. This is especially important for steep sheer cuts on final finish cuts.

Background: I do much of my turning with a Michaelsen grind. When I go to finish a bowl, I sharpen (5) 1/2" gouges and (3) 3/8" gouges at a time, largely the same grind, because I like to swap out for sharp gouges without going back to the grinder. I've thrown parabolic, V, and U shaped gouges into the mix and I can tell over days or weeks which shape gouge cuts best, and which cuts cleanest. The difference isn't huge, and the difference is greatest on final finish cuts where my goal is to get the cleanest surface possible.

Conclusion: There are a number of other factors which also change effectiveness of grinds: including flute finish (milling marks or polished), choice of sharpening wheels & grit, off-the-wheel or honed, etc. Most of these are differences between good and really good, and for most folks don't matter that much.
 

RichColvin

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The BESS machine is the best test method for sharpness.
 
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I think that optical microscopes top out at 1000X and that requires oil emersion. By that I mean that you put the slide with a cover slip on the microscope table, put a drop of special oil on the slip and then put your objective lense in the oil. It would be a neat trick to do this with something like a gouge.

With electron microscopy (with which I have no experience) I suppose that those type of pics are obtainable. One would need access to a big time lab and unless you knew someone the $$$ per image would be equally big time.
 

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Bill It's a scanning electron microscope in a lab at Tennessee Tech where I used to work. One of my good friends runs the lab. I also now have access to a sharpness tester that I hope to use next week. All of this excess testing is beyond what is needed. What I started out to prove or disprove was that Carbon steel would get sharper than other steels and you couldn't sharpen Particle metal steels to a really sharp edge. Well I sharpened Carbon steel, HSS, and Particle metal steel to well beyond what we sharpen turning tools and probably at least as sharp if not more so than carving tools. All 3 cut the same as near as I can tell. That's why I went to the scanning microscope to actually see if there was a difference. More testing to be done in the next few weeks.
 

Bill Boehme

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The BESS machine is the best test method for sharpness.

There's no scientific data to support its validity. There's no analytical justification to correlate edge angles nor for materials being cut. It's an informal test method used mostly by some knife makers where edge angles are all mostly the same and the purpose is mainly to cut meat and vegetables. In that narrow segment I suppose that the BESS scale has some qualitative usefulness, but the test method doesn't produce any quantifiable data beyond the force required to cut through their polymer test media.
 

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BESS does allow for comparison of different sharpening techniques. I don't advocate it for an absolute test of "sharpness" : that's probably a discussion in the forthcoming "Zen and the Art of Woodturning" (no, I'm not writing this, but would be a great book).
 
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I accidentally dropped in here, I came to the Forum to ask a new question. Back to the top, the original question of parabola vs. ellipse. And I confess I've pontificated on this in another thread.

Bill B. answered it in his first response. "They're so close at the size we're talking about that it is meaningless to get mired down in the minutiae of difference between the two. Besides, once the flute has been polished to remove the machine marks, the flute will be neither parabolic nor elliptical. There is not just a single shape for either a parabola or an ellipse, but a whole family of curves for each".

I'll do my usual Murph Says pontification. A V is a V, and a U is a U - and both have straight sides. A true V gouge would have a point at the bottom, the actual V gouges have a curve at the bottom (else they would be useless for our work) then the sides "straighten out" as they diverge. A true U gouge would have a larger diameter curve at the bottom and the sides would be verticle, the actual U gouges have the sides straighten out to near verticle, but they still diverge.

In both cases the sides, extended to infinity, would never meet. The V and the U are not in a family of curves.

By contrast, the ellipse and the parabola are both in families of curves. The ellipse family never meets as it goes off into infinity, but the curves are continuous. The parabola family will eventually close and make an orbit, but it might take billions of miles to finish its cycle. Our earth's orbit is parabolic, luckily. The comet coming in from deep space is also parabolic - but a lot longer parabola. Whether there is a natural object following an ellipse is a matter for the particle physicists and astronomers.

Let's come back to a practical level. I repeat Bill Boehme's comment - "They're so close at the size we're talking about that it is meaningless to get mired down in the minutiae of difference between the two. Besides, once the flute has been polished to remove the machine marks, the flute will be neither parabolic nor elliptical. There is not just a single shape for either a parabola or an ellipse, but a whole family of curves for each.". The advantage to the turner in sharpening, and using, the gouge is not the specific parameters of the curve - it is that the curve is consistent through its length. The side bevel of a long winged gouge changes gradually and consistently. The V and the U don't do that (although some called Vs do). The same applies to spindle gouges, but they are normally a steady curve.

This thread digressed, something I've been accused of in other threads <grin>. I happen to have a set of CBN wheels (D-Way), and you don't need a Baldor grinder. As an old man on Social Security I am not rich, but the CBNs have already saved me money (had the fine wheel with the rounded edges, a la Ellsworth cutting tools I make myself) for three years, and the course for two years. My old 1750 "low speed" grinder died a year ago. I bought a Delta VS at Lowe's for under $100 and it works fine. I was concerned that the bottom range was 2250, but the CBN wheels grind so "cool" and gentle that I can touch up my tools with a single pass - and I can regrind at 3400 without overheating. What I spent on the wheels I save on the tool steel.

One more thing from this thread - the tool steel itself. A while back my old Ellsworth Signature 5/8" (US) from Crown was getting short. I invested in a Pro-PM, as it was the only one I was sure was "parabolic" and a better steel. Since then I've done a bit of research and discovered that the PM is said to not take as sharp an edge as the M2, but that it holds it better than the M2. The research shows M42 is best at both. My solution is to use my PM for shaping the bowl then my M2 for the final cuts.

I took note of some comments on scrapers, and the steel. I buy my scrapers from PSI, they are rated M2 (by an outside agency) and they are cheap. I reshape them often for particular work pieces. I'm not a great fan of scrapers, I prefer to cut, but they have many uses. I grind to about 70 dgs. and use the Veritas device to make the burr. That makes a "forward burr" rather than the "back burr" done with a hand honer, but it is consistent and easy to do. I think spending money on the best steel for scraper is a waste - better to regrind and re-burr the square end "el cheapos" (as long as they are M2 or better). Why spend money for the grinding by the vendor when you can grind the shape you want yourself?

In summary, the ellipse and the parabola are the same thing, each is a continuous curve. The shape of the curve varies, but the key for our use is that it is continuous.Some steels take a better edge, some hold the edge longer (but don't take as good an edge). M42 is expensive and does both, but do you really need it. In ten years you may want M442 <grin>. Perfection is in the hands of the turner.

I take the liberty of quoting Bill Boehme again - It's a lot like golf clubs and fishing rods. We can get lost in the details and forget that it's the person holding the tool that makes the difference.

To each his own, and each will find his favorite. But it is easier to find a favorite when the curve is consistent.

Best, Jon
 
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By contrast, the ellipse and the parabola are both in families of curves. The ellipse family never meets as it goes off into infinity, but the curves are continuous. The parabola family will eventually close and make an orbit, but it might take billions of miles to finish its cycle. Our earth's orbit is parabolic, luckily. The comet coming in from deep space is also parabolic - but a lot longer parabola. Whether there is a natural object following an ellipse is a matter for the particle physicists and astronomers.


Jon you have this backwards. Orbits are elliptical and parabolas go off into infinity.
 
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"I took note of some comments on scrapers, and the steel. I buy my scrapers from PSI, they are rated M2 (by an outside agency) and they are cheap. I reshape them often for particular work pieces. I'm not a great fan of scrapers, I prefer to cut, but they have many uses. I grind to about 70 dgs. and use the Veritas device to make the burr. That makes a "forward burr" rather than the "back burr" done with a hand honer, but it is consistent and easy to do. I think spending money on the best steel for scraper is a waste - better to regrind and re-burr the square end "el cheapos" (as long as they are M2 or better). Why spend money for the grinding by the vendor when you can grind the shape you want yourself?"

Jon, Well, you stepped on my toes a little, but I am used to it because I don't think any one out there uses scrapers the way I do. They are my primary bowl roughing tool, and I do all of my shear scraping with them as well, and I feel that they have several advantages over gouges for both purposes. If we were to do a play date, that would be the easiest way to show what I do. I do prefer the grinder burrs for heavy roughing, and they do work well for most shear scraping. I am becoming a big fan of burnished burrs for shear scraping though, but don't think they are much better than a grinder burr for heavy roughing. I have never tried the Veritas device, and the one time I saw it used, the turner commented that it was impossible to hand burnish a burr on M2 because it was just too hard. The way he was cranking on his scraper made me think he was way over doing it, and in too big and hooking over like a breaking wave... My favorite scraper is the Big Ugly tool (video up on You Tube, type in the title) which has tantung as the cutting metal on top. It is a bit coarse for fine shear scraping, but I can turn for half a day without needing to resharpen.

The sharpening bit never seems to be settled as far as which gets sharper. Some claim that some metals will take a finer edge than others, which I am not sure about. Some claim that you can get pretty much the same sharpness edge on just about any metal, but the difference is that it is easier to do with some metals than others. That seems to make more sense to me, but then, the only real thing I know about most metals is how to grind them...

Oh, scrapers do cut, otherwise you could not get shavings....

robo hippy
 

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Reed I hope to have my article on which steels take a keener edge done shortly and it will be in More Woodturning sometime in the future. The short story is, at least on what I tested, they all sharpen to the same degree of sharpness. You'll see the results photographed on a Scanning Electron Microscope.
 
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Some thing I have been chatting with Tom Wirsing about is the 400X scope/camera that he and Stuart used at the KC Symposium for their demo. This would make a really interesting article to compare all the different edges. I was chatting with Mike Mahoney about his shear scraping burr on scrapers and his comment was some thing like 'the scraper burr is kind of like a pile of grit/shavings' rather than a raised burr. Huge differences in burrs depending on how you raise them... I don't have a subscription to More Woodturning any more, but would love to see the article.

You wouldn't happen to be coming out to Portland next summer would you? No idea where the Symposium after that one will be, but out east, but then every thing is out east from here....

robo hippy
 

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I might be able to wangle you a copy of the article. On some days I get along with the author pretty well. Nope won't make Portland. Way to far and too expensive.
 
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