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How to use the One way easy coring system.

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I hate to keep asking so many questions, but I would hate it more if I messed up a beautiful spalted wood block when coring because I didn't get the information straight in my head before starting. I bought the easy core system of bowl coring but the instructions are non existent other than the grainy video which was some help.
Are the boards they talk about for depth measurements? I have my knife sets running dead center after a little back yard engineering. I need to know more information on coring the different size bowls compared to the depth I can expect. So imagine me an empty vessel of this type coring and those of you who use them please remember when you first started and anything that helped you will no doubt help me. Please don't assume I know anything about this system and go from there. Thanks ahead of time.
 
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I have my knife sets running dead center after a little back yard engineering. I need to know more information on coring the different size bowls compared to the depth I can expect.

Breck,
Each knife has a maximum depth because you just can’t position the base closer to the headstock than the upright supports allow. To arrive at the maximum depth for my knife sets, I placed a flat board perpendicular to the lathe bed so that I could position the base as close to the headstock as possible such that the knife at full swing just touched the board. Then I measured the distance between the board and the base and wrote this “zero depth” measure on the knife.

The next step to using the measure is to establish some sort of reference for where the outside bottom of your bowl would be. For me, it changes depending on which chuck and jaw set I’m using. One of my methods is to mount the chuck and desired jaws to the lathe with no bowl attached and drop a line straight down to the ways where the face of the jaws lie. If I were to position the base distance from this line equal to the “zero depth” measure from above, then the thickness at the bottom of the bowl would be zero — and more funnel than bowl. Merely add the desired bowl thickness to the "zero depth" distance and the knife will leave that thickness.

I believe the wood spacers in that old video — Oneway really needs to upgrade that video or take it down and link to one of the independently done YouTube videos out there — are a shortcut way to set the base distance from some standard reference point on the lathe, but they won’t work if the place where the outside bottom of the bowl changes distance from the headstock (due to different chucks/jaws/faceplates). You would need a full set of boards for each mounting combination for each set of knives.

If my method needs a few pics to better get my words across, I’d be happy to snap a few.
 
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Always square the coring base with the lathe bed; that will provide future measuring consistency. Here you can see the board sitting perpendicular to the bed. It doesn’t really matter what it’s against at the top as long as it is straight up and down.
IMG_42791.jpg

Keeping the base square to the bed, adjust the distance from the board so that as the knife swings to the maximum it barely skims the board’s face.
IMG_42802.jpg

Measure the distance from base to board. Here it’s just shy of 6.5”.
IMG_42823.jpg

Write the distance on the knife. This is the “zero thickness” distance. You never have to do this part of the set-up again — but you do have to do this with each differently sized set of knives.
IMG_42834.jpg

To set up the base for actually coring, drop a line straight down from wherever the outside bottom of the bowl will be. I consider the face of the jaws as the outside bottom for the way I work but it could be different if you like different mounting or foot profiles for your pieces. I placed a piece of tape on the bed just at the edge of the blade — and drew an arrow for clarity. This arrow point (and tape edge) represents the same distance in horizontal space as the jaw faces above it.
IMG_42845.jpg

Now set the base distance from the arrow/tape edge by adding the desired bottom thickness to the “zero depth” marked on the knife. In this case a 7” distance will yield a 1/2” bowl bottom (7” - 6.5” = 1/2”). This is the minimum thickness the knife will leave if the knife post is placed dead-center to the bowl; if it’s left or right of center (but still square to the lathe), the knife will leave greater depth but only by an eighth inch or so at the most.
IMG_42866.jpg

Hope that clarifies my first post. If not, don’t hesitate to ask.
 
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Breck,
Each knife has a maximum depth because you just can’t position the base closer to the headstock than the upright supports allow. To arrive at the maximum depth for my knife sets, I placed a flat board perpendicular to the lathe bed so that I could position the base as close to the headstock as possible such that the knife at full swing just touched the board. Then I measured the distance between the board and the base and wrote this “zero depth” measure on the knife.

The next step to using the measure is to establish some sort of reference for where the outside bottom of your bowl would be. For me, it changes depending on which chuck and jaw set I’m using. One of my methods is to mount the chuck and desired jaws to the lathe with no bowl attached and drop a line straight down to the ways where the face of the jaws lie. If I were to position the base distance from this line equal to the “zero depth” measure from above, then the thickness at the bottom of the bowl would be zero — and more funnel than bowl. Merely add the desired bowl thickness to the "zero depth" distance and the knife will leave that thickness.

I believe the wood spacers in that old video — Oneway really needs to upgrade that video or take it down and link to one of the independently done YouTube videos out there — are a shortcut way to set the base distance from some standard reference point on the lathe, but they won’t work if the place where the outside bottom of the bowl changes distance from the headstock (due to different chucks/jaws/faceplates). You would need a full set of boards for each mounting combination for each set of knives.

If my method needs a few pics to better get my words across, I’d be happy to snap a few.

This is exactly what I have done. I zeroed out my knives and referenced how deep each knife will cut in relation to the front of the base clamping plate, this # is permanently written on the back side of each knife.
Since I tend to not always using the same chuck and jaw setup when coring I’ll take my framing, square reference the front face of the jaws and transfer that measurement to the bedways of the lathe and mark it with a permanent marker on the bedways. (Not to worry this is easy enough to remove)
Now by simply adding in the desired bottom thickness of my bowl I add this measurement to the measurement written on the back of the knife. This combined measurement is now laid out from the line written down on the bedways to the front face of my clamping plate.
Note this works only when coring from largest to smallest.
However it can also be used when wanting to core from smallest to largest by setting up for the largest coreout first then without moving the base clamping plate insert your smallest knife set first and work your way up to the largest set. This second method works but gives you little flexibility and limits the thickness of your cored out bowls.
 
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Note this works only when coring from largest to smallest.
However it can also be used when wanting to core from smallest to largest by setting up for the largest coreout first then without moving the base clamping plate insert your smallest knife set first and work your way up to the largest set. This second method works but gives you little flexibility and limits the thickness of your cored out bowls.

What him /\ say! (shorter and sweeter compared to my diatribe!) Good point, John, on how the setup affects the small to large vs. large to small sequence. If you want flexibility going small>large, you have to add the multiple desired bottom thicknesses and the cutter kerf widths — it can get confusing unless you sketch it out. DAMHIKT! :confused::mad::oops:
 
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I started doing the set up a little differently instead of using spacer boards etc. When I'm getting ready to core I place the cutter against the face of the bowl like Owens pic #1 and 2 except the cutter is touching the face of the bowl. I also use a square to make sure the base is perpendicular to the bed. Then I simply measure with a tape measure on the bowl blank to the depth that I'm wanting to cut. I doing so be sure to subtract the 1" +or- in extra thickness that you are allowing for if doing twice turned bowls. Then I measure over from the base of the camping plate that distance (towards the headstock) and put a piece of masking tape on the bed. Then loosen the clamping base, slide it over to the tape, re-square it and bolt it down. Of course you have to move the base right or left before clamping to determine where on the bowl that the cut will begin. This method is very quick and simple and pretty foolproof.
The variables are whether you do an outside or inside tennon that your jaws are grabbing. I have gone exclusively to an outside tennon which makes the depth of the cut needed very simple. This allows me to clamp the jaws tight whereas if expanding the jaws you have to be careful not to crack the base of the bowl.
 
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Owen I can't tell you how much you have helped me, the pictures are wonderful they make the written description much easier to visualize. So provided I use the same chuck and jaws these zero measurements will not change. Once I have added the bottom desired thickness to my zero measurement I will have my desired depth. Question: there seems to be a wide range of possible core diameters for each knife set. If you choose any of them will the depth still be determined by the zero + desired bottom thickness (+ or -) 1/8 or so depending on placement of Knife post being centered or not? Is there a better choice between using knife set 3 at it's widest diameter setting or Knife set 4 at a smaller diameter to get the same thing? I assume you choose the knife set with the depth you have to work with after the money bowl is marked. If not, please explain.

One more question for those of you have and use this system. How do you store your knife sets and the fingers when not in use? Any pictures of how you store these might be just what I need as I try to figure out how to adjust my turning room to handle this new system so they are out of the way yet accessible when needed.
 
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One more question for those of you have and use this system. How do you store your knife sets and the fingers when not in use? Any pictures of how you store these might be just what I need as I try to figure out how to adjust my turning room to handle this new system so they are out of the way yet accessible when needed.


I hope this link works http://www.woodturnersunlimited.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4865 This is how I store my system, you will need to scroll partway down through the thread to see my setup.
 
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Am I right to say going from a smaller knife max depth to next larger knife same diameter cut you get a different depth bowl from cut? Are the curves on the knifes actual radius of circles? If they are ,does anyone know what the radius is of each size of knife?
 
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Am I right to say going from a smaller knife max depth to next larger knife same diameter cut you get a different depth bowl from cut? Are the curves on the knifes actual radius of circles? If they are ,does anyone know what the radius is of each size of knife?
Glenn the guy from oneway gave me this answer for the same question I asked him, maybe you can do a better job at understanding what he was saying than I did. "The maximum depth is the nominal diameter of the knife divided by 2 minus 1 inch. " I don't think he answered my question but if he did I didn't quite figure it out. I think this is just the depths each knife cuts at maximum.
 
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One more question for those of you have and use this system. How do you store your knife sets and the fingers when not in use? Any pictures of how you store these might be just what I need as I try to figure out how to adjust my turning room to handle this new system so they are out of the way yet accessible when needed.

Your second question first: I store the knife sets in a cabinet. Not great and takes room but the different knives do kinda nest together when their arcs are in the air.

Question: there seems to be a wide range of possible core diameters for each knife set. If you choose any of them will the depth still be determined by the zero + desired bottom thickness (+ or -) 1/8 or so depending on placement of Knife post being centered or not? Is there a better choice between using knife set 3 at it's widest diameter setting or Knife set 4 at a smaller diameter to get the same thing? I assume you choose the knife set with the depth you have to work with after the money bowl is marked. If not, please explain.

It took some noodling to get my mind wrapped around why one should choose one knife over another. I needed to draw it out to get an understanding of the differences. In the drawing, the red, orange, and yellow arcs represent the #4, #3, and #2 knife sets (I don’t own the #1). The grey hemisphere is a wood blank and the dotted blue hemisphere inside that is the cut line that would yield 10% wall thickness (the wood’s center line is also shown by a dotted blue line). Look to the center and bottom half of the drawings to see what my words are referring to.

Easy-Core3.jpg
In this first illustration above, the desired bottom thickness is not possible with yellow #2 knife because the wood will hit the knife support tube before the depth is achieved — even though the arc at the beginning is perfect.

Easy-Core2.jpg

In this second illustration above, the desired bottom thickness is possible with orange #3 knife but the coring base needs to be moved away from you for the beginning of the orange arc to fall in the right place. This movement changes where the knife arc intersects the desired cut line but the difference is only about 1/8” thicker than needed at the bottom. However, note the space between the dotted arc and the solid orange arc — this represents a portion of the wall being thicker than necessary. This is because the center point for the bowl’s hemisphere can not be located at the center point of the knives' arcs.

Easy-Core1.jpg

In this last illustration above, the desired bottom thickness is possible with red #4 knife but the coring base needs to be moved far away from you for the beginning of the red arc to fall in the right place. Like knife #3 above this movement changes where the knife arc intersects the desired bottom center line and the difference is about 1/4” thicker than needed at the bottom. Now compare the space between the dotted arc and the solid red arc — this portion of the wall is substantially thicker than desired.

You could adjust the placement of the larger knife to cut the beginning of the arc and intersect the bottom center but you wouldn’t really know how far toward the headstock to move the coring base and it still won’t follow any closer to the desired arc than the #3 knife would.

Through all of this I believe the answer to which knife is the best choice is to go with the smallest knife whose depth of cut will reach as deeply as you want. Then adjust the base toward or away from you to get the beginning of the cut to yield the entry wall thickness.

Thank you for asking the question because it helped me visualize what is happening and how that has jibed with my experiences. I believe I’ve chosen too large of a knife on more than one occasion because I’ve ended up with much thicker walls than I expected.
 
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Owen, wow you should have been a teacher that was a complex answer made very simple with your ability to provide a visual explanation to back it up. Thank you more than you will know for finally giving me a better understanding on these knife sets.
 
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Owen, great illustration of how the use of each knife will have an effect on what the final outcome will be. By moving the center of your arc away from the bowl blank/block, along with also moving the arc center to either left or right of center.
For myself I’ve always understood this but it’s good to see the results in a diagram such as what you have shown here.
 
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Owen, wow you should have been a teacher that was a complex answer made very simple with your ability to provide a visual explanation to back it up. Thank you more than you will know for finally giving me a better understanding on these knife sets.

Thanks Breck. In my real life I’m an instructional assistant teaching reading with kindergarteners through 5th graders. A touch of 3rd grade math is thrown into my day for good measure. The college courses I took on teaching math emphasized doing visual representations for problems and that method really appeals to me. I’ve enjoyed replying to your question!
 
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Thanks Breck. In my real life I’m an instructional assistant teaching reading with kindergarteners through 5th graders. A touch of 3rd grade math is thrown into my day for good measure. The college courses I took on teaching math emphasized doing visual representations for problems and that method really appeals to me. I’ve enjoyed replying to your question!
That doesn't surprise me having been a high school science teacher for 30+ years I can usually recognize another teacher or at least those who would have made a good one. Thanks again
 
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Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I don't have that much experience coring, but I made these boards that help me visualize where the bottom will be and how thick the base of the bowl will be. I have found that I would rather start with the biggest bowl and make sure I have that one right. Then work down to the smallest one.
IMG_1748.jpg
coring736.jpg
I have also found if the blank is deep enough, you can get two large bowls by starting on the outside.
oscore7.jpg
If I had planned the shape better, (straighter the first inch or so) it would have worked out better. The two biggest would be closer to the same size.
 

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Jim,

Do you use the safety cage on your PowerMatic all the time, or only when tackling roughing an exteriors?

Rich
 
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Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I don't have that much experience coring, but I made these boards that help me visualize where the bottom will be and how thick the base of the bowl will be. I have found that I would rather start with the biggest bowl and make sure I have that one right. Then work down to the smallest one.
View attachment 24037
View attachment 24038
I have also found if the blank is deep enough, you can get two large bowls by starting on the outside.
View attachment 24039
If I had planned the shape better, (straighter the first inch or so) it would have worked out better. The two biggest would be closer to the same size.

James I really like what you do because it is a visual thing which I like. To me the money bowl is the most important always. I think I will incorporate your board method along with what I have already learned. Thanks for your post. I took a few pictures of how I decided to store my easy core system thanks to what I learned from the other guys who posted. Maybe they will help someone else.
 

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Jim,

Do you use the safety cage on your PowerMatic all the time, or only when tackling roughing an exteriors?

Rich
Usually it just holds the dust collection unit. I leave it on the lathe unless it is necessary to have it removed. That way it is easy to use if I think I should, as you mentioned for roughing some pieces. As pictured I did use it for coring that large Cherry crotch blank, because of inclusions or questionable wood where the limbs joined and my inexperience coring.

I need to clean it and paint it black as was suggested by someone to make it less visible in use.
 
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Am I right to say going from a smaller knife max depth to next larger knife same diameter cut you get a different depth bowl from cut? Are the curves on the knifes actual radius of circles? If they are ,does anyone know what the radius is of each size of knife?

Glenn,
If the base stays at the same position, then yes, the next larger knife will reach the difference of the radii deeper. The knives are segments of a circle, that’s the only way you can have a stationary pivot point for them — like the Woodfast tailstock coring setup but unlike the McNaughton system.

I do not own the smallest #1 knife, but here are the approximate radii of my #2, 3, and 4. I don’t know how consistent the measure is between other #2s, 3s, or 4s and my measure is a best-eyeballed to the center of the post attachment point. Lastly the measure is to the “outside” of the 3/8” wide cutter.

#2: very close to 6-1/4”
#3: very close to 7-3/8”
#4: very close to 8-7/16"
 
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Glenn,
If the base stays at the same position, then yes, the next larger knife will reach the difference of the radii deeper. The knives are segments of a circle, that’s the only way you can have a stationary pivot point for them — like the Woodfast tailstock coring setup but unlike the McNaughton system.

I do not own the smallest #1 knife, but here are the approximate radii of my #2, 3, and 4. I don’t know how consistent the measure is between other #2s, 3s, or 4s and my measure is a best-eyeballed to the center of the post attachment point. Lastly the measure is to the “outside” of the 3/8” wide cutter.

#2: very close to 6-1/4”
#3: very close to 7-3/8”
#4: very close to 8-7/16"

Owen, when I measured mine I got 6 1/4”, 7 1/4” and 8 1/2”, but as you say it is a best guess and I could have been off by 1/8” on the #3 knife.
 
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Owen, when I measured mine I got 6 1/4”, 7 1/4” and 8 1/2”, but as you say it is a best guess and I could have been off by 1/8” on the #3 knife.

Yeah, I don’t know the setup at Oneway when they weld up these things for how consistent they are. In my view, it really doesn’t matter all that much. These are roughing tools where an eighth here or there isn’t going to make a difference.

So can we assume knife #1 is 5 1/8

I really don’t know, but it would fit the general pattern. Any #1 knife owners out there willing to measure?
 
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The knives of the OneWay easy core have radius’s of 5”, 6 1/4”, 7 1/4” and 8 1/2”
The pivot point for these radius’s at it’s closest point to the turning blank is 1” outside of the face of the blank. The radius’s on the knives are at the outside diameter of the cut that the knife produces, the cutting tip on the knives are 3/8” thick so you would need to extract this difference from your radius for the cored out blank. So with the largest knife being 8 1/2” less 1” less 3/8” your deepest cored out blank will be 7 1/8” max, but let’s just call it 7”.

As a side note:
With the OneWay system the knives can be moved of center by approx. 1” +/- from the center point of your turning blank. So the largest knife can yield a core of up to 18” diameter and as small as 15” diameter yet the maximum depth of the cored blank will not exceed 7”.
 
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Breck,
Here are some pictures of a proto-type laser guide that I am making for my Oneway Coring System. I can’t take credit for it as I saw it somewhere else, but don’t remember where. Right now I have a wood dowel that I sized to fit the shaft for the coring tool. I then got a piece of PVC pipe to slide over the dowel. Drilled a hole in that pipe and used a smaller piece of PVC pipe to hold the laser. I hold the horizontal PVC in place with a screw. I have drilled screw holes in the horizontal PVC to match the radius of each of the coring tools. I found that you can get a pretty good laser at Petsmart, a lot cheaper than Radio Shack or some of these other electronic places. Petsmart sells the laser as a cat toy.

What I like about this setup is that it allows you to trace out the location of the actual cutter head on the outside of the bowl. This then allows you to move the center of your coring tool further back on the center line of the bowl or slightly to the right of left of the centerline and know exactly how deep your cut will be.

With this laser guide, my hope is that I will be able eventually be able to do more of a multi-bowl set of nested bowls with the Oneway Coring System.

Steve
 

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This is an informative thread...and wow, y'all have some nice lathes! I work my Central Machinery lathe from HF to death, lol...probably wont invest in coring knives until I upgrade. I learned about these knives by looking into how nesting dolls are made. For general bowl making, Coring systems seem like they'd be the status quo...literally making 2-4x the bowls out of the same piece.
 

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The knives are segments of a circle, that’s the only way you can have a stationary pivot point for them — like the Woodfast tailstock coring setup but unlike the McNaughton system.

The blades on all coring systems have to be circular ... otherwise they wouldn't be able to advance very far without binding in the kerf. The main differences in the McNaughton system are that the center of rotation isn't rigidly fixed which allows the kerf to be widened to change the shape of the core. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage.
 
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Breck
Here are some pics on how I choose to store my oneway coring jig I made a box that sits on supports brackets on legs sloped top of box so shavings will slide off I figured I added a hundred pounds to lathe which can't hurt I also use the same set up for coring as Jim In the craft supplies catalog it has a chart on size of blanks and depth that cutters will go
 

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Peter,

That's really nice. I've thought of doing something like that.

Rich
 
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This is oneway coring related.

If one is always turning kiln dried Burl rounds, 12 to 10 round 3 to 4 inch thick, would a coring system be of help or worth while? These rounds are expensive! I hate wasting wood.
 

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This is oneway coring related.

If one is always turning kiln dried Burl rounds, 12 to 10 round 3 to 4 inch thick, would a coring system be of help or worth while? These rounds are expensive! I hate wasting wood.
If you are turning shallow bowls it is not too much of learning curve to make 2 or 3 core cuts Those blanks.
2 core cuts would yeild 2 bowls with 3/4” walls and the inside core.
Burls tend to be easy to core since there is no end grain to fight through.

As your technique matures your kerfs will be narrower and you will be able to core thinner walled bowls.
4 bowls with 3/8-1/2” thick walls
6 bowls with 1/4” walls
If you get really really good then 12+ Bowls with 1/8” walls are possible.

I think the McNaughton works better for shallow bowls
 
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My Easy Core system arrived last week and I haven't used it yet. But, I have gone through the confusing process of figuring out how to store it. Believe me, it's harder than it looks. The base tucks away behind that cedar panel.

Easy Core Storage sm.jpg
 
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