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PLANET MESQUITE and "Shooting Up" (epoxy)

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Planet Mesquite is now dry - MC is below 7% - ready to start final turning / finishing. First order of the day is to secure loose bark and fill bark inclusions. In past replies to posts I've mentioned injecting low-viscosity epoxy - in brief, the combination below is Aero-Marine 300/21 and a #22 hypodermic which costs $0.25 at CVS.
If anyone on the forum would like detail I'll be happy to provide.
John





smNeedle.jpg smHalf Shot.jpg
 
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Have you had any problems with the epoxy curing process? I have heard large amounts of epoxy "crystalize" if you pour too much at one time. Have you had this experience with Aero-Marine?
I am very impressed with your Oneway setup that you have posted about. How hard was it to line up the tailstock with the spindle?
 
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"I'm going to give you a shot. Then I'm going to pour one for myself."
Do you not need a doctor's Rx to buy a needle/syringe? I used to get mine at Tractor Supply. No needles needed but used to measure epoxy.
 
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Planet Mesquite is now dry - MC is below 7% - ready to start final turning / finishing. First order of the day is to secure loose bark and fill bark inclusions. In past replies to posts I've mentioned injecting low-viscosity epoxy - in brief, the combination below is Aero-Marine 300/21 and a #22 hypodermic which costs $0.25 at CVS.
If anyone on the forum would like detail I'll be happy to provide.
John

tks for update





View attachment 24076 View attachment 24077
 
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"I'm going to give you a shot. Then I'm going to pour one for myself."
Do you not need a doctor's Rx to buy a needle/syringe? I used to get mine at Tractor Supply. No needles needed but used to measure epoxy.
It depends on what state you are in . Some states do require RX to help control drug abuse. Some Pharmacists will only sell syringe to people with RX for injectable medications.
 
Joined
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Gerald, I live part-time in the state of confusion. TSC has the needles in a locked cabinet. I would think that there would be certain requirements to purchase the needles.
FWIW- Controlling drug abuse is like trying to nail a piece of Jello to the wall.
 

hockenbery

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Nailing jello to the wall can be accomplished just takes some thought. ( one solution don’t take it out of the box)
The brute force approach usually gets a little bit under the nail head.

As far as hyperdermics some jurisdictions give them out to prevent spreading diseases.

I’m often amused at how much money, time, cancelled events, inconvenience ....
are spent to prevent about 30 lighting deaths a year. of course lightning has no lobbyists.
The reality ispeople still die from lightening because the only way to stop lightning deaths is prevent lightning.

To tie this to woodturning don’t cut wood in a thunder storm.

Happy new year all
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2014
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Location
Dallas, TX
Have you had any problems with the epoxy curing process? I have heard large amounts of epoxy "crystalize" if you pour too much at one time. Have you had this experience with Aero-Marine?
I am very impressed with your Oneway setup that you have posted about. How hard was it to line up the tailstock with the spindle?

REPLY to epoxy questions:
I have not had the problems of curing or crystalization - that may be due to the material and the application.
MATERIAL: Aero Marine, West and System-3 are all the slower setting types - at 70-degrees I can mix a 36-gram batch and take up to 30-minutes to apply. I found that the pressure of a hypodermic can accelerate the thickening so I use only the 3ml syringe instead of the 10ml. The reason I stick with the 300/21 is its lower viscosity.
APPLICATION: To my thinking there are two primary variables: STRESS/COSMETIC and SIZE OF GAP. One of the most challenging is a crack across the pith. I always start by injecting the 300/21 and then filling with 400/21 or a thickened 400/21. If a high stress and large gap (see pics below of steady rest collar glued on to surface) the only way to go is WEST G/Flex-655, especially if the wood is wet. WEST G/Flex is also cycloaliphatic - I will generally injected the 300/21 and then work-in/glob on the G/Flex. G/Flex is also compatible with System-3 pigment which is also cycloaliphatic.

REPLY to lathe modification: I used transits (both laser and optical), lots of string overhead with several plumb-bobs - it took some hours.
The larger question is how it went together: After several, and I mean several, really bad ideas, I called Kevin Clay - he is the president and an engineer at Oneway. Because he has all the drawings and CAD/CAM files, he made the bracket (where the I-beams attached to the lathe) and the two risers that elevate the 17" extension - I think he charged enough to maybe cover the cost of the 1/2-inch steel. Now my arms are a bit longer for hugging myself for making the decision to buy a Oneway - it's made at their shop in CA and cost maybe a bit more, but you get the expertise, creativity and help when you need it.



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Joined
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View attachment 24292
Have you had any problems with the epoxy curing process? I have heard large amounts of epoxy "crystalize" if you pour too much at one time. Have you had this experience with Aero-Marine?
I am very impressed with your Oneway setup that you have posted about. How hard was it to line up the tailstock with the spindle?


I've rethought how to line-up the tailstock and spindle. As per my earlier reply, I utilized a transit and overhead string/plumb-bobs.
Now I'm about ready to hang Planet Mesquite back on the lathe and I have to re-align - don't want to do the above again.
A bud that's getting into distance shooting (1000 and 1500 meters) bought a laser bore sight as a first step to getting in the "neighborhood". It occurred to me that the same process would work for me. I'm buying a Bushnell laser bore sight and will be inserting it into the M2 end of the spindle - if all goes as planned, the little red dot will hit the live-center at the point. To insure it the laser is centered, all I have to do is turn the spindle 180-degrees and shim as needed - when the dot on the wall doesn't move, it's positioned properly in the spindle. Then, if the dot is not on the point of the live-center, I'll need to adjust. When it is on the point, it's dead-nuts.

QUESTION: Anybody done this?

Oneway 2424 - 4650_ mod.jpg
 
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View attachment 24292

I'm buying a Bushnell laser bore sight and will be inserting it into the M2 end of the spindle - if all goes as planned, the little red dot will hit the live-center at the point. To insure it the laser is centered, all I have to do is turn the spindle 180-degrees and shim as needed - when the dot on the wall doesn't move, it's positioned properly in the spindle. Then, if the dot is not on the point of the live-center, I'll need to adjust. When it is on the point, it's dead-nuts.

QUESTION: Anybody done this?

View attachment 24293

Hi John,

I've not tried that, but have considered it a few times.
In my case, I need to rebuild my headstock bearings, which are babbitts. (my blacksmith friend will help with the pour.)
And I can move the tailstock up and snug it to the spindle, so it will be centred.

But similar to your situation, if I move the tailstock back 5 feet, then the spindle needs to be aligned to still centre.

So please let me know how your technique turns out and what exactly you bought.

Thanks
Olaf
 
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Olaf - will do. I found out after the posting yesterday that the Bushnell, which is an "end of barrel type" is not optimum - appears the cartridge type will be best - will know in a couple of days.
I will start another thread - this is a bit off the subject of injecting epoxy.
 
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Great engineering and project. I am impressed.

I've only used a bore sight on a rifle. Great thinking on using it for your project.

When I bought an antique scope for my antique rifle the shop owner sighted in the scope with his bore site. At the rifle range by sheer luck, it was right on at 100 yards—perfect grouping. Normally accuracy I was told is an inch or so at 25 yards.
 

john lucas

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I used a boresight on my Powermatic. I made a wooden morse taper and bored out the center to hold the boresight. None of my adaptors would fit the morse taper itself.
 
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