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Useful shop gadgets.....shop, and "evolving shop" photos......

odie

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I tried longer depth drills until I saw Richard Raffan use a short one. Here is mine with a standard size 1/4" drill bit with a few notches to note depth. I use this for shallow bowls but mostly for doing boxes. Probably for 90% of my depth drill tasks. No ferrule since I don't put any lateral pressure on it. After your post with the yellow scoop from HD I went out and got one. Great idea Odie and thanks for sharing. I posted it in my chapter's newsletter.

Hi Mike........

Well, you've inspired me to change one of my depth drills to a shorter drill. The 3/16" drill never did work all that well anyway, because the hole was too small......plugged up too easily while the lathe was running and when that happened, I couldn't see where the bottom of the hole was.

Solution.......larger 3/8" drill bit, but I substituted a shorter, regular length bit.

I tried this out this afternoon, and am very happy with the result. I'll be using the shorter drill bit quite a bit more often than the longer one.......depth limitation is around 3", which covers about 80 percent of the bowl blanks that I've been purchasing.

Thanks to you, this particular aspect of bowl turning is now just a little bit better than before. :cool2:

The longer depth drill will still be used for those very deep bowl blanks that I'm able to get occasionally..........great!

ooc
 

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odie

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Update..........

Two reasons I didn't like the commercial depth stop for a woodturning depth drill, is it isn't adjustable without tools, and the set screw tends to mar the flutes of the drill when used repeatedly.

I used the same depth stop shown in the photo above, but altered the screw to adjust by hand. I also rounded and smoothed the other end on the 3M deburr wheel, so that it won't mar the flutes of the drill bit.

Also, I embedded the commercial drill stop into a block of wood for two reasons........to get a larger "footprint" of the stop to the bowl blank, and to recess the contact surface to allow for shavings to not interfere with an accurate depth hole.

I've said before that it's important to not give up on making your little inventions work perfectly, and it may take several attempts to make it work right.......this is a good example of that philosophy.......:cool2:

ooc
 

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odie

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Mounting wood to a chuck, whether the chuck is already screwed onto the spindle, or is on your bench-top, is much more "user-friendly", and efficient since making a few homemade attachments that help immensely.

The "T" handle chuck key has been modified with a revolving hand hold, made from a scrap piece of walnut. (This is simple to make, if you have a lathe......:D) The mating surface on the chuck key shaft has been highly polished, so that the Walnut piece revolves effortlessly. The 3M deburr wheel is great for doing the polishing.

If the chuck is on your bench-top, a chuck caddy is the way to go! The one on the left photo has been modified with a base that overlaps the edge of the bench-top. This makes for a stable base that stays put, while clamping the jaws to your workpiece.......without the need for a third hand!

The chuck caddies also protect the threads, and mating surfaces of chuck to spindle. They are easily made, and on the right is a picture of one without a chuck, to see their basic construction. Very simple to make, and very useful for one specific purpose in the shop......

ooc
 

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odie

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I used to have trouble with thin wall bowls vibrating when doing the foot, and that problem has been solved with a set-screw installed between the Oneway Stronghold chuck body and the scroll. As it was, it required too much pressure to insure the chuck would hold with speed. The pressure on the bowl was the source, or cause of the vibrations I had been experiencing. Now, with the addition of the set-screw, only light pressure on the bowl is required for a hold that won't budge.....and after doing this modification several years ago, I don't recall ever again having the vibration problems I once was plagued with when doing the footing on thin wall bowls.

:cool2:

ooc
 

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odie

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There are two things in this photo that other turners might find of interest.

The mounted laser pointer is useful for pinpointing a specific location on the bowl while the lathe is in motion. If you match your tool "wake" to the red laser dot, you can work on any specific location you choose......no guessing!

:cool2:


There is a fixed air line coming up through the bottom of the photo to the interior of the bowl. The line is mounted, and flexible. If you do any bowls with inward slanting walls, you know that stopping frequently to eliminate built up shavings caught by the walls causes you to stop frustratingly often to eject the shavings. With the air line pointing into the interior, this problem is completely solved.

:cool2: :cool2:

ooc
 

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odie

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Grinder organization is important to keeping a good keen edge......and quickly renewing that edge is equally as important. Everything organized and handy is a benefit to those ends.......

There is a large 600gt diamond plate.

Two small diamond credit card plates. 600gt and 1200gt

Two large slipstones.

Two small slipstones.

Two wheel dressers, diamond and composite.

Two brass wire brushes.

One nylon bristle brush.

Home made flute pick and scraper.

Three vari-grind depth gauges.

Two 600gt diamond cones.

One 600gt straight diamond 1/4" bar.

One 3M pad for cleaning tool shanks.





ooc
 

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odie

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Odie, i just want to say thanks. I keep checking back to this thread and as a novice turner I really appreciate and enjoy seeing the pics and ideas you keep adding.

Thanks
Ricc Havens
Elkhart, IN

You are certainly welcome, Ricc.........

Not everything I find useful will be equally as useful to everyone else, but I hope some of my thoughts and ideas might help out a few other turners. Hopefully, a few other turners will add to this thread.........already, I've modified my own procedures and tools, as a result of this thread alone!

Just so happens, I'm in the process of adding to this thread right now........another one coming right up, so stay tuned! :D

ooc
 
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odie

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Chuck jaw gauges.......

These gauges have been so useful to me, that I can't imagine myself not having them........and, how I ever got along without them is a mystery! :D

When I want to match a spigot or recess to any specific set of jaws, it's so simple to do......just match the arrow on the end of the scale to one side of the spigot/recess and read which jaw set fits...........or, know how much to cut to get to the jaw set you prefer.

The spigot jig is measured from right to left, and the recess jig is measured from left to right. There really wasn't any reason for doing it this way. It was strictly arbitrary and I wasn't really considering it when I made up the second jig......either way is ok, if you prefer one direction over the other.

I use Oneway Stronghold chucks, so you'll have to make them up to suit your own equipment and tools. You'll notice a small area that's colored red.......this is important. With my Oneway jaw sets there is a small area where NONE of the jaws covers this size of spigot or recess. It's really frustrating to cut a spigot and sometime down the road, discover that there isn't any jaws that will fit! :mad: I believe it was this specific thing that originally inspired me to make these up.......and, there has been nothing but perfection since that time! :cool2:

You will also notice that some sizes of spigots/recesses will be covered by more than one set of jaws. This is good to know, because unless you have ten chucks, you're going to have to change jaws out........sometimes there will be no need to do that, if an alternate set of jaws just happens to already be installed. Normally, I mark the roughed bowl with the jaw size using an Ebony pencil.........that way, I have a reference without the need to measure again at some later date. That is, I mark all bowls with the appropriate jaw size, except number 2 standard jaws......which I don't mark. The number two jaws are, by far, the most used jaw size, so I mark everything else, and know that if it isn't marked, it's going to be number two standard jaws.

ooc
 

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odie

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Thanks to Al Hockenbery........

It was six or seven years ago that I enquired on this forum for good methods to mark information on roughed bowls for seasoning.......and, thanks to Al, he introduced me to Ebony pencils for this purpose.

For many years, I had been using peel and stick labels for this purpose.......but, that wasn't satisfactory because often times the labels couldn't be relied upon to stay put. It was pretty frustrating to lose this information........:mad:

Although the Ebony pencils do work excellently for lighter colored bowls, they are hard to read on dark grained wood species.

The solution to writing on dark grained bowls is an artist's white charcoal pencil.

Both pencils work well on roughed bowls with high moisture content, and are unaffected by wax sealant solutions.

The Ebony pencil and white charcoal pencils are available at an art supply store.



ooc
 

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odie

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Great tip, thank you sir.

Dave F.

You bet, Dave.......

The artist's charcoal pencils are available in a variety of colors. Don't know if there are any other applications for other colors.....but just putting it out there, in case anyone can think of any.......:confused:

I don't think the ebony pencil is available in anything but jet black.

ooc

Odie,
I noticed you are numbering your bowls, may I ask how you are using the number?

Thanks
Bill

Bill........

I'm running a list of things I intend to add to this thread, and the bowl numbering system I use is directly related to my way of organizing the inventory in my shop.

Guess I ought to do that next........:D

Look for it in the next few days....... Basically.....(with some exceptions), every bowl blank gets a number when it's received. It is tracked throughout it's progress in the shop, up until it's completed. In this process, I'm adding notations as progress continues. My completed bowls are not in numerical order.

I believe some turners apply a number only when their bowl is finished. There is an advantage to that, in that should a turner's works ever become collectible, there is some reference point as to the chronology of when that particular piece was produced........

.......I could care less about that. All I'm interested in organizing data in a way that allows me to store, retrieve, reference, contemplate......and evaluate information.

ooc
 
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I now number each piece of wood when I get it. The number is recorded in a log book with the date and moisture tested with a meter. In the past when I turned it the number was lost and the story of the wood was forgotten. Now, with the use of grease pencils that number can be added right through to the finished piece. I may just burn the number in the bottom of the piece so can complete the journey.

I've enjoyed going to the shed and finding a piece of wood to work on, then looking up the number. Remembering either harvesting the wood or who gave it to me brings back good memories.

Dave F.
 

odie

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I now number each piece of wood when I get it. The number is recorded in a log book with the date and moisture tested with a meter. In the past when I turned it the number was lost and the story of the wood was forgotten. Now, with the use of grease pencils that number can be added right through to the finished piece. I may just burn the number in the bottom of the piece so can complete the journey.

I've enjoyed going to the shed and finding a piece of wood to work on, then looking up the number. Remembering either harvesting the wood or who gave it to me brings back good memories.

Dave F.

Dave.......I believe your method of recording numbers in a log book is a good way to go. This is because a bowl can be looked up by number at a later date. I haven't been doing this, but I may in the future. Thanks for the suggestion. :cool2:

For my turnings, the bowl number and species of the wood is on a sticker applied to the foot when the bowl is finished, but not burned into the bowl itself. I did burn the identification number into the bowl for a short time, and didn't like the way it looked. To my thinking, the overall impression I wish to convey is best served by simply applying my personal logo to the bottom.

I have seen some turners burn numbers, date, signatures, species, etc., into their bowls........and, to me, that sort of thing only detracts from the overall impression of professionalism. (To do more than simple identification of the artist is a bit presumptuous, and makes it look more like crafts show stuff, if you ask me.....:rolleyes:)

ooc
 

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Dave.......I believe your method of recording numbers in a log book is a good way to go. This is because a bowl can be looked up by number at a later date. I haven't been doing this, but I may in the future. Thanks for the suggestion. :cool2:

For my turnings, the bowl number and species of the wood is on a sticker applied to the foot when the bowl is finished, but not burned into the bowl itself. I did burn the identification number into the bowl for a short time, and didn't like the way it looked. To my thinking, the overall impression I wish to convey is best served by simply applying my personal logo to the bottom.

I have seen some turners burn numbers, date, signatures, species, etc., into their bowls........and, to me, that sort of thing only detracts from the overall impression of professionalism. (To do more than simple identification of the artist is a bit presumptuous, and makes it look more like crafts show stuff, if you ask me.....:rolleyes:)

ooc

very interesting thought Odie. I on the other hand have been asked to burn in name or initials and date of piece from relatives and friends.
I guess if selling them it would be better not to date them. Am i thinking along the same lines as you?
 

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very interesting thought Odie. I on the other hand have been asked to burn in name or initials and date of piece from relatives and friends.
I guess if selling them it would be better not to date them. Am i thinking along the same lines as you?

I'm not sure that we are, Bill........

From my point of view, this is strictly a matter of appearance for gallery sales.......and my own personal opinion about what reflects a more refined impact on the customers who frequent art galleries. Obviously my opinion isn't going to cover everyone who might be a potential buyer, but the actual percentages of who would be influenced by my philosophy on this, is a matter of speculation. The date isn't there, but with the sticker intact, the end purchaser will know what kind of wood it is. I have had galleries remove the sticker and apply their own, but the number and species is always recorded into their inventory........so, the purchaser will have that information.

We all know that when someone first looks at your bowls, nearly every time with few exceptions, they will want to know what kind of wood it is. There was also a time when I experimented with burning in the species, but my conclusion on this was the same. Simplicity, or the KISS principle guides my perceptions of what a professional appearance entails.

All of this, is strictly an opinion on my part, and it is not intended to be a statement about what another turner decides to do with their own works. I stress that I am only expressing an opinion, and there is no right or wrong in it as applied to anyone else.

If someone wanted me to burn information into a bowl, I WOULD DO IT. Seldom does anyone have that opportunity, because usually the end user doesn't have any idea who I am, and neither the opportunity to talk to me prior to finishing a bowl.

ooc

.
 
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odie

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From past interaction with other turners, I have a strong feeling that most turners of present day are inventorying their bowls by a computer program. I haven't specifically used a computer program to inventory my bowls, but I have used one for another purpose.

I first began inventorying my turnings long before there was ever a computer in my household. Back in the beginning, I believe I used a journal type of book form entry method, but soon after that, started using 4x6 file cards and a file card box. Now I have three file card boxes........I suppose you could say that since I'm using a system that works very well for my purposes, I have no strong desires to change horses in mid-stream!

Nothing against computer programs, but there is one thing that seems less advantageous about them.......and, that is few of us are likely to have a computer in our shop. Because of that, there is a disconnect between the need to record/access information, and the ability to do it on the same time line.

............................

As mentioned earlier, when I receive a bowl blank, it gets a 4x6 file card and a number immediately. The date received, source, cost + shipping cost, size, species, and moisture content are all recorded on the card. This is normally the only time I use the moisture meter, and this one time is only done to provide initial information which is used to determine a strategy. If it is determined that seasoning by monthly weighings is indicated, my basic formula for concluding that MC stabilization has occurred, is to record three consecutive months of the same weight. Sometimes more, depending......but, the formula seems to be a good overall blueprint for success.......

Depending on MC and other factors, the bowl blank may be roughed after a short acclamation period, or it may be stored for some future time for turning. Basically, if the MC is 12 percent, or under, I'll be in no hurry to finish it off......and, it becomes part of a growing inventory of "future bowl blanks". If the MC is 12-14 percent, and depending on a number of factors, I may decide to rough it out, with or without anchorseal.....but still no hurry, since the MC is low. If the MC is 16 percent or more, I usually rough it out and completely anchorseal it within a month.

The file card is dated at the time of roughing it out.......and the seasoning process begins with monthly weighings, all of which are recorded.

When the MC has stabilized, a waste block is installed (I'm a faceplate user), the roughed bowl becomes part of an inventory of bowls ready for final turning. Of this stock of prepared roughed bowls, and among those bowl blanks with less than 12 percent MC.......I pick and choose which will be next to become a completed bowl.

During the time the bowl is in process of finishing it off, I am making notations, and little drawings indicating flaws and what was done to address them, as well as sanding progress information. If epoxy was used, that is noted. If the height, or shape was necessarily altered outside the game plan, that is noted, too. Often times, progress is interrupted during the sanding phase, and it's very helpful to have information on what grit was used, and where it was used, when I return to work.

When a bowl is completed, I date the card and enter the final size. Quite frequently, the final size, and the original size are very different. This is because we all have to deal with flaws in the wood, and my preferred method is not to repair cracks and flaws when they can be eliminated.......thus, a smaller size.

Since my sales are infrequent, I see bowls that are less than the best I have, as an opportunity to continually practice techniques and shapes, without using up all my best bowl blanks. These are a great source of give-away bowls......and I have literally given hundreds of these bowls to co-workers, and to the ladies at my church.......and, offered others for donations to the church. (killing two birds with one stone? :D) Many of these bowls are never photographed.

Anyway, the file card index is a method that your Grandpappy might have used, and it's still a very excellent method of inventory. I have three file card boxes, and they are for:

A) work in progress
B) roughed bowls ready for final turning
C) completed bowls on hand, accounts/bowls sold, bowls given away.

ooc

OK, OK.....I know that very few of you ever got down to the bottom of this post......but, I thought I might spend the effort to explain a few things to the very few who did.......:D


.
 

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Steve Worcester

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It was six or seven years ago that I enquired on this forum for good methods to mark information on roughed bowls for seasoning.......and, thanks to Al, he introduced me to Ebony pencils for this purpose.

For many years, I had been using peel and stick labels for this purpose.......but, that wasn't satisfactory because often times the labels couldn't be relied upon to stay put. It was pretty frustrating to lose this information........:mad:

Although the Ebony pencils do work excellently for lighter colored bowls, they are hard to read on dark grained wood species.

The solution to writing on dark grained bowls is an artist's white charcoal pencil.

Both pencils work well on roughed bowls with high moisture content, and are unaffected by wax sealant solutions.

The Ebony pencil and white charcoal pencils are available at an art supply store.



ooc

Light wood, Sharpies and then wax over them, dark wood... we don't get anything that dark. Walnut the darkest and Sharpies work on that too.
 

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Light wood, Sharpies and then wax over them, dark wood... we don't get anything that dark. Walnut the darkest and Sharpies work on that too.

Hi Steve.......

The reason I don't use a sharpie for marking wood, is because it penetrates, and is permanent. This will result in a net loss of wood to the level required to remove it.

ooc
 
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What I use on the blanks and assorted chunks of wood is a Bic correction pen. It doesn't penetrate, it will go over wax, works on light or dark. And the numbers are from Wood Crafts list that came with pen blank assortment years ago. This way I didn't have to come up with a new system. :D

The Bic correction pen idea is from Don Ward and his new pen making book!
 

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odie

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What I use on the blanks and assorted chunks of wood is a Bic correction pen. It doesn't penetrate, it will go over wax, works on light or dark. And the numbers are from Wood Crafts list that came with pen blank assortment years ago. This way I didn't have to come up with a new system. :D

The Bic correction pen idea is from Don Ward and his new pen making book!

Hi Glen.......

Thanks for this idea.

Both the Ebony pencil and the white charcoal pencils work very well, but neither work over wax. There are times where this would be an added convenience for my purposes.......specifically when I receive a bowl block that is already treated with wax. For this, I've been using a sticker with the information stapled to the very corner of the block, so that it will be removed when it's band sawed round. The correction pen would be a better solution.

When a bowl block is roughed to bowl shape for seasoning, the Ebony and charcoal pencils work fine, since it's bare wood prior to sealing with anchorseal over the top of the markings.

I'll want to get one of the Bic correction pens for my own use, because I see a definite use for them. There is a Staples store here.......can I get one there?

ooc

I just ran a search for the Bic correction pen, and Staples, among many other places does indeed have it.......I'll get one!

Thanks......:D

click:
http://www.staples.com/Bic+correction+pen/directory_Bic+correction+pen

ooc

.
 
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The only things I will add to the use of the correction pens. Shake well if the instructions say to any brand should work They were out of the store brand and I didn't want to use the brush in cap to write on small pen blanks! ;)
You will have to develop a light touch when writing on wax, as to much pressure will scrape up the wax. You will have to clean off the tip when writing on wax after a couple times. I bought the two pack and switch off when doing a lot of blanks.

I also squeeze it so the flow is a little on the heavy side, as you can then write on top of the wax. It does take a little practice to get the hang of using them but, the learning curve isn't real steep.:D
 

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The only things I will add to the use of the correction pens. Shake well if the instructions say to any brand should work They were out of the store brand and I didn't want to use the brush in cap to write on small pen blanks! ;)
You will have to develop a light touch when writing on wax, as to much pressure will scrape up the wax. You will have to clean off the tip when writing on wax after a couple times. I bought the two pack and switch off when doing a lot of blanks.

I also squeeze it so the flow is a little on the heavy side, as you can then write on top of the wax. It does take a little practice to get the hang of using them but, the learning curve isn't real steep.:D

OK, got one......er, two of them in a package.

I've already tried it out, and I can see why your writing looks so big.......it is what it is. I'm not sure this will replace the stickers fastened with a staple, but it's good to know this capability is there when needed. Takes about ten minutes to dry, so no touching!. There are times when I want to add information to roughed and anchorsealed bowls, and staples are a no-no.......the correction pen will be perfect for that.

Thanks Glen.......

ooc
 
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Stronghold Wrench - Jumbo Jaws

Attached are 4 photos that show the problem I was having and how I easily solved that problem:

Photo 1 – Problem
I found when using my Stronghold chuck and a large set of Cole Jaws (these were home made that expand to 23.95 inches, mounted to the Stronghold flat jaws) I was having a space conflict with the T-bar handle. :mad: Usually when mounting something in these jumbo sized jaws, one needs a hand on the object to be turned and one to tighten the jaws. With the T-bar conflicting with the jaws, this became overly complex and time consuming due to the T-bar not fitting behind the jaws (see photo 1).

Photo 2 – Wrench Top
The obvious solution is to get a longer wrench. When looking at the wrench, I found that the round top of the wrench was just slightly larger than a 14 mm 6 point socket. So I went to the grinder and flattened out the sides to match the 14 mm socket. This took a minimal amount of grinding (one must sneak up on it like fitting a lid to a turned box). When I was done fitting the socket, I painted the top of the wrench with a bit of flat black paint to match the existing wrench color (see photo 2). :D

Photo 3 – Extension
With the T-bar removed, I can now fit a 14 mm socket to the top of the Stronghold Wrench and with a single hand I can tighten or loosen the jumbo jaws quickly (see photo 3).

Photo 4 – Complete Wrench with T-bar in Place
The best part of this modification is that the regular T-bar can still be used as designed. Only when the extension is needed does one need to remove the T-bar. No extra pieces and a very minimal amount of modification to the existing wrench! (see photo 4)

If you have also encountered this problem, consider this solution.

Problem solved, time to get back to turning! :cool2:
 

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odie

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Flammable waste storage......

If you don't have a safe place to store oily rags, finish rags, paper towels used with flammables, etc., a metal paint can will serve this purpose well. Empty weekly with regular garbage pick up.

These cans are available at the hardware store for around a buck......believe I got this one at Home Depot. I put a small drawer pull knob in the lid to make access handy. Stays on top of the work bench.

ooc

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odie

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Use a paper veil for matching the existing grind of any gouge to your grinding wheel.

At one time, I was using jigs to set up a grind to a gouge.....not any more! I can match the existing grind to match the wheel in seconds. This is a little trick I learned by observing creative techniques of people where I work, who do hand finishing work on medical instruments.

You can make a perfect match of the existing gouge grind, and it matters not if a straight grind via the V-arm, or Vari-grind attachment of the Wolverine is being used. Simply place a plain white piece of paper between the light source, the profile of the gouge/wheel, and your eye. Takes only seconds for a perfect match. Or, you can lengthen/shorten the bevel angle by varying the match of the two surfaces......up to you!

In the side view photo, I left a little gap there to clearly see the two surfaces.....for illustration purposes. You can match the two profiles exactly, or reduce the bevel angle by grinding slightly more on the back of the heel. This lengthens the bevel. In the photo, if you were to grind it this way, by grinding slightly more on the front of the bevel towards the cutting edge, you can enlarge the angle, or shorten the bevel. It all depends on your needs of the moment.

The paper veil is attached to the side of the grinder shield via a magnet. The little wire handle with wooden knob is there simply to make things a bit easier for me, but not necessary for the purpose function.

Once this method is accustomed to........set up is only seconds of time, and you have the freedom of accurately adjusting the bevel angle to your needs. I imagine there will be those who are using jigs and set in their ways.......this is fine, but a few of you might be inclined to give this method a try. Some may like it, some may not.......but, I won't be going back to jigs that vary depending on wheel diameter, and take a bit more guesswork in order to adjust the angle to a specific need.



ooc
 

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Funny this is the first thing I read after joining the forum today!

I literally JUST bought one of these pans this past weekend at my local HD and you're right. They are awesome.

EDIT: Sorry, I was replying to the post about the yellow freestanding dust pan from Odie at the beginning of the thread. Didn't realize it would throw my reply to the bottom of the thread. I should have quoted it. Sorry everyone.

Kevin
 

odie

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Funny this is the first thing I read after joining the forum today!

I literally JUST bought one of these pans this past weekend at my local HD and you're right. They are awesome.

EDIT: Sorry, I was replying to the post about the yellow freestanding dust pan from Odie at the beginning of the thread. Didn't realize it would throw my reply to the bottom of the thread. I should have quoted it. Sorry everyone.

Kevin

No sweatski, Kevin......

Most will know what you're talking about, but here's the pic of the big yellow dustpan again. I haven't used anything else since I bought mine.......the most handy thing it's turned out to be, especially for the piles of shavings a woodturner creates! :D

2/25/17.....nearly 4 years later. That big yellow dustpan is still in everyday use!

ooc
 

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odie

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The trouble with those cone diamond hones......

Good morning! :D

I've been using a cone diamond hone for several years with great success......Now it's better!

The original hone comes with a plastic handle that opens up similarly to a Philippine butterfly knife......and it's rather flimsy. I never realized this slight flexibility was a problem, until after I mounted the diamond cone into a more rigid wooden handle a couple of months ago.

After I re-mounted the cone, I immediately began to notice the degree of sharpness I could achieve on a gouge was better.....or at the minimum, the resulting edge was more consistently sharp.

The reason for the increase in efficiency, is due to the flimsy plastic butterfly handle. It flexes ever so slightly with any pressure at all. This means while you're taking off the burr in the flute, it interferes with keeping the cone perfectly flat against the flute.......This is the source of the problem, and it's bad news!

The cone shaft mounts to the plastic handle with a long set screw. It can be removed with an allen wrench and re-used for the wooden replacement handle. Be sure to drill the hole so it's nice and tight. I believe I went 1/64" undersize from where I'd normally drill for a screw hole.....very tight fit.

This is one of those "lucky accidents" you get every now and then. All I was trying to do was get a better feeling handle, and I had no idea I was about to make a discovery that made honing a gouge more efficient! :D

ooc
 

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odie

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Cool looking handle, Odie.

Heh,heh,heh......hey, thanks Richard.......:D

Looks are not the objective, but nice looking tools are never a bad thing!

I'm going to assume for the moment that what looks good on the cone diamond hone is the grip tape I used. This is hockey tape, made for wrapping the handles of ice hockey sticks. It's made specifically for extra grip, and is a cloth tape. I think they use it on baseball bats, as well. Anyway, it's available at a sporting goods store......comes in about every color under the sun! I get it at Play It Again Sports.

In the shop, I've used it for short lathe tools, banjo handle, mallet handle, etc.......but, I first started using the hockey tape about 15 years ago to get an extra solid grip surface on my gym equipment. I guess it was a natural thing to project the usefulness of the hockey tape to other applications!

:D

ooc
 

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odie

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Merit Power Lock discs removal tool.......

For those using the Merit Power Lock discs, you probably have torn the locking plastic backing from the disc by repeatedly removing the disc with your fingers.

Some of you may be using a screwdriver......and, this is better, but you can't get two sides at the same time that intersect the center from opposing points.

Here, I've made up a special tool for Merit Power Lock disc removal that is better yet! It was made from an old chisel.

This tool also doubles as a quick reference to measure the room needed for the grippers on the Oneway Jumbo, and Mega Jumbo jaws......1/2"

ooc
 

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odie

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Adjustable pin rest post.......

If you are like me, there are times when you want the added convenience, fulcrum and steadying ability of a pin rest, but don't want to hassle with changing from the current rest, or just want to continue using the rest you are using.

This removable vertical pin is made up from lamp clamp. It's quick to attach to most rests that have a flat surface......only seconds of time. It's reversible, in that the clamp handle can be on the left, or right to suit the current need.

The clamp ends were positioned to where I wanted them by heating with a propane torch and bending to fit the purpose. I've added a rubber covering, so that it won't scratch the tool rests. The rubber covering also serves to increase the grip on the rest. Not as solid as a real pin rest, but is quick on and off, and is good to go for the occasional one time use.

Like many of my specialized tools, and "shop helpers", it stays close by and can be put to use instantly, and without any loss of concentration for what I'm doing at the moment.......:cool2:

ooc
 

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odie

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Power cords hung from ceiling

Some of you are aware that I work in a machine shop. This is where I got the idea to install power outlets in the ceiling and hang the power cords from there. This has been a fantastic solution to power cords everywhere on the floor. All equipment is plugged in and ready to go anytime I want to use any of them. The only thing on the floor is my 2nd air hose, which needs to extend throughout the shop.

ooc
 

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Bill Boehme

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.......Like many of my specialized tools, and "shop helpers", it stays close by and can be put to use instantly, and without any loss of concentration for what I'm doing at the moment.......:cool2:

ooc

To change the subject slightly, I like your "Lock-Out -- Tag-Out" device that you made for the lathe controller.
 

odie

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To change the subject slightly, I like your "Lock-Out -- Tag-Out" device that you made for the lathe controller.

Thanks, Bill......

The lock-out has a magnet on the back and is used for both the reverse and power switch. There are a couple of big fender washers attached to the control box for the magnet to attach to. It stays on the reverse switch all the time, until I need to lock out the power. I should have known better, and done this after I converted to variable speed.....but, all it took was one time accidentally hitting the reverse switch at high rpm......never again! :eek:

I had a lock out for power only on the Woodfast lathe prior to converting to VS. I accidentally turned it on when the spindle was locked!.....so, I made a fix for it. I should have learned my lesson the first time! :eek::eek:

ooc
 

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odie

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Here are a couple of depth gauges for checking the interior depth of bowls. They are simple to use and simple to make for yourself. These have been in constant use, and I can't do without them. Why buy one, when they are so easy to make? :cool2:

Simply a board cut out to the preferred length and a hole drilled through. The rod can be made from anything in your scrap bin......an old coat hanger, or a piece of welding rod would work nicely, but I happen to have some stainless end pieces from work that would have been scrap, otherwise. The hole is friction fit to the rod.

ooc
 

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odie

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I've gotten into some trouble with matching smaller bowls to conform to the limitations of holding the interior rim on Mega Jumbo, and Jumbo jaws, for turning the foot. The shape of certain small bowls makes the exterior rim not usable for this purpose, so the interior rim dimensions have to have an exact minimum diameter (or larger) to work.

In the past, I've been using a simple ruler to find the limits directly on the bowl, but have made a few mistakes in that measurement. This little gauge makes a mistake impossible. If it slips into the interior, it works! Another simple to make, and simple to use solution.......:cool2:

Made from Baltic Birch plywood, with smaller dimensional 1/4" plywood backing on rear side for long term resistance to abuse.

(One thing that is an anomaly with these two jaw sets, is the larger jaws will hold a smaller interior rim diameter. I don't know if this is the same with the current Oneway Mega Jumbo, and Jumbo jaws, but this is how it is with my two sets.......:D)

ooc
 

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Another great idea Odie.

Hey, do you ever misplace any of these jigs in your shop?? I find that all my "timesavers" need to be organized or they end up costing me more time looking for them:mad:!

my rule of thumb: I don't allow myself any horizontal spaces closer than the area to properly store the tool / jig. ... but still I will find forsner bit caps on the drill press and drill bits on my stool after a weekend of work:eek:.

Tom
 
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