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Help with first lathe...

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I am torn between buying the Delta 46-460 or the Jet 1221vs. I was just on the Home Depot site and they state the Delta has been discontinued. Does anyone know if this is accurate? Also, any recommendations on lathes in this price point would be appreciated. Under $1000.

Thanks
David
 

hockenbery

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I would give a slight edge to the jet. It has more features and I like the control position a little better.

Both machines will be a fine lathe for
Pens, ornaments, boxes, and small bowls up to about 10" etc.
An 11 3/4" bowl can be turned but it gets to be tedious as the bowlnwon't turn over the tool rest banjo and you get into work arounds.

The best buy is good used lathe but they get bought quickly..

Between the two I would look for the cheapest.

Have fun,
Al
 
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I would give a slight edge to the jet. It has more features and I like the control position a little better.

Both machines will be a fine lathe for
Pens, ornaments, boxes, and small bowls up to about 10" etc.
An 11 3/4" bowl can be turned but it gets to be tedious as the bowlnwon't turn over the tool rest banjo and you get into work arounds.

The best buy is good used lathe but they don't last long.

Between the two I would look for the cheapest.

Have fun,
Al

Thanks for the info. I would like a full size lathe, but I just can't find one in my price range that people recommend as a good lathe. I have tried to go the used route, but I just can't find any for sale in my area. I have tried CL, classified ads, etc...

David
 
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An 11 3/4" bowl can be turned but it gets to be tedious as the bowlnwon't turn over the tool rest banjo and you get into work arounds.

Don't let this bother you. It's not a problem if you turn the outside of a bowl toward the headstock. You can put the whole banjo in where you've made space. Not sure why Al considers it a problem.

First I'd heard of a discontinuation on the Delta. Maybe just Home Depot is dropping the line. It's FWW editors' choice, and seems to have good bottom end rpm for its size and more than enough HP.

On/Off switches can be wired into the motor or to a remote where the whole thing plugs in. Also not a problem if you want one you can put wherever you want.
 
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Don't let this bother you. It's not a problem if you turn the outside of a bowl toward the headstock. You can put the whole banjo in where you've made space. Not sure why Al considers it a problem.

First I'd heard of a discontinuation on the Delta. Maybe just Home Depot is dropping the line. It's FWW editors' choice, and seems to have good bottom end rpm for its size and more than enough HP.

On/Off switches can be wired into the motor or to a remote where the whole thing plugs in. Also not a problem if you want one you can put wherever you want.

Some guys on another site, told me Delta was purchased by another company and that there was some discussion on revising their tool offerings. Their concern with this acquisition was availability of repair parts. They recommended the Jet because of this, but I think I like the Delta better.

Would you go with the stand on either of these models or would you just bolt it to a good heavy work bench?
 

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Some guys on another site, told me Delta was purchased by another company and that there was some discussion on revising their tool offerings. Their concern with this acquisition was availability of repair parts. They recommended the Jet because of this, but I think I like the Delta better.

Would you go with the stand on either of these models or would you just bolt it to a good heavy work bench?

That is really old news. Delta was spun off from B&D over a year ago. They had a parts supply problem for the last several months, but now have a new system set up and things seem to be back in order.

Their 46-460 is one of their best selling tools so the HD person was either talking about them dropping it from their inventory or else didn't know what he was talking about. I have used other turner's 46-460 in several all-day classes and found it to be a really nice machine. It is very well built and runs very smoothly and quiet. If I didn't already have three lathes, I might get one for myself.
 
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Sounds like a latrine rumor second class, as we used to call them. Might want to question the time frame, as Bill suggests.

I wouldn't get a stand if I had tools to build one. Building one allows you to make good use of the space underneath that's wasted on a stand. Cabinet out of heavy sheetgoods with a double top is what I'm using for my 3000. Just mount the lathe all the way up front, so you won't have to lean, and extend the legs about 4-6" at an angle to counter over-the-top thrust. Think of trapezoid ends, with the rear at 90 degrees, the front at perhaps 10 off. All the mass required to hold the lathe stable is supplied by the cabinet. Put your heavy stored items on the bottom to keep the CG low.

Elevate your lathe ends above the table on 3/4 or a pair of 3/4 blocks so you can clean out underneath and give that motor some clearance.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/P3140057.jpg My baby in its pre-door days. Doing again, I wouldn't set it back from the front of the top, just extend the top past the drawers a bit so a casually closed one wouldn't collect shavings.
 

hockenbery

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Don't let this bother you. It's not a problem if you turn the outside of a bowl toward the headstock. You can put the whole banjo in where you've made space. Not sure why Al considers it a problem.

First I'd heard of a discontinuation on the Delta. Maybe just Home Depot is dropping the line. It's FWW editors' choice, and seems to have good bottom end rpm for its size and more than enough HP.

On/Off switches can be wired into the motor or to a remote where the whole thing plugs in. Also not a problem if you want one you can put wherever you want.

The reason:
I like to balance the grain on my bowls.
When the bowl is shifted I like to true rim.
I occasionally turn a thin bowl
When I do this I true the outside of the bowl after it is in the chuck and then hollow it.
I also turn a lot of hollow forms hollowed through the face grain.
On these I turn from both side toward the high spot somewhere in the middle and shift them to balance the grain.

So all these forms under 10" diameter no problem.
At about 10 1/2. I would have to take the pieces off the lathe to turn on the other side or buy a second banjo.

If you are willing to accept the grain pattern you cut with the saw then the clearance over the banjo is not an issue for bowls with walls over a 1/2 thick as the difference from out of round is not noticeable. Make the wall an 1/8" thick and you are out of round a 1/16 at the rim big difference.


Al
 
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Have a steady? The key to even-thickness rims is to use it as a matter of course. Especially with thin stuff.

Not sure what balancing of the grain means beyond centering the annuals on the bottom, which is done before mounting on the pin chuck. Make the center of the oval the center of the bottom. Seldom a surprise thereafter.

When I had to turn around the headstock to do something like your hollow form bottom, which I hate to do, I found unscrewing the chuck and putting the banjo behind took care of my needs. Gotta love the long banjo and rest on the 3000. Beyond that, there's the extension I bought because the old 46-204 wouldn't let me get outside and true a 6" diameter workpiece. Dumb design on that one.

Call 'em "workarounds" if you want, but they make the height over even a short banjo with a short rest into a non-problem.
 

hockenbery

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Have a steady? The key to even-thickness rims is to use it as a matter of course. Especially with thin stuff.
.

I have a very nice steady made by John Nichols that I use on some hollow forms.

Never found it worth the effort to deploy on bowls.
True the outside turn the walls to thickness 1-2" at a time
Of course these are small bowls 14" and under.

I would recommend truing the outside before using a steady.

Al
 
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As the Mouse recommends, build a stand. Something like he showed, or something like this:

IMG_3229.JPG
 
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For most of us, deciding what lathe to buy involves finding the sweet spot among the trade offs. If the question is what new, full sized lathe can I get for under $1000, one to consider is the Nova 1624. It's a 16" lathe and refurbished from Teknatools or on sale at Woodcraft will be under $1000. The biggest trade off is lack of variable speed--you have to move belts to change speed. (I have no financial interest in Nova/teknatools and think the two other lathes are fines choices, in smaller sizes, too)
 
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For most of us, deciding what lathe to buy involves finding the sweet spot among the trade offs. If the question is what new, full sized lathe can I get for under $1000, one to consider is the Nova 1624. It's a 16" lathe and refurbished from Teknatools or on sale at Woodcraft will be under $1000. The biggest trade off is lack of variable speed--you have to move belts to change speed. (I have no financial interest in Nova/teknatools and think the two other lathes are fines choices, in smaller sizes, too)

It does not have to be a new lathe, but I am having a hard time finding used ones in my region. I will check out the lathes you listed though. Thanks.
 

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It does not have to be a new lathe, but I am having a hard time finding used ones in my region. I will check out the lathes you listed though. Thanks.

David,
Used lathes tend to sell quickly. So you need luck and patience.
Sometimes local chapters forward lathe for sale emails.

Starting with a 12" machine is a route taken by lots of turners.

You also need a sharpening system,
Bowl gouge, spindle gouge, parting tool, and maybe a skew
Face shield, dust mask,
A couple of classes.

Have fun,
Al
 
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Just to add to what Al said about the extras you may find they add up to more than the lathe if you are not careful but his suggested are a min and don't forget the safety gear. Have fun and enjoy turning on your new lathe.

Ian
 
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David,
Used lathes tend to sell quickly. So you need luck and patience.
Sometimes local chapters forward lathe for sale emails.

Starting with a 12" machine is a route taken by lots of turners.

You also need a sharpening system,
Bowl gouge, spindle gouge, parting tool, and maybe a skew
Face shield, dust mask,
A couple of classes.

Have fun,
Al

I have everything, but the lathe tools. What is a good starter set? I keep reading people say to buy cheaper ones, because you chew them up learning to sharpen them. I have a full shop full of all kinds of tools, I am just adding a lathe.
 

hockenbery

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David,
Tools depend on what you want to turn.

I'm not a big fan of buying sets but sometimes it is the simplest way to go.

If you are able to take a class of hook up with a mentor, get the tools you have learned to use and keep using them until oh are really good with them.

When I teach a beginning bowl class, I want the students to have a bowl gouge(5/8 dia bar), spindle gouge 3/8 dia, and a round nosed scraper 1" or 3/4"
8 or 10" calipers and a four jaw chuck.
Those are all the tools needed for a bowl and once you get good with the bowl gouge the round nosed scraper is not used.
Take a bowl class from someone else they might require a parting tool and might not require the spindle gouge.

If you want to do pens and bottle stoppers
You need spindle gouge or a skew or both.

If you want to do lidded boxes and other spindles a parting tool

I suggest checkout Packard woodturning tools and craft supplies.
The HSS Packard label these are good quality tools at reasonable prices
The Artisan tools from Craft supplies are similar in cost and value. Packard is closer to you faster delivery

1/2 Bowl gouge Around $65
3/8 Spindle gouge around $35
3/4 Scraper Around $55

Hope this helps a bit. Big thing is finding a mentor or a formal class.
Al
 
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David,
Tools depend on what you want to turn.

I'm not a big fan of buying sets but sometimes it is the simplest way to go.

If you are able to take a class of hook up with a mentor, get the tools you have learned to use and keep using them until oh are really good with them.

When I teach a beginning bowl class, I want the students to have a bowl gouge(5/8 dia bar), spindle gouge 3/8 dia, and a round nosed scraper 1" or 3/4"
8 or 10" calipers and a four jaw chuck.
Those are all the tools needed for a bowl and once you get good with the bowl gouge the round nosed scraper is not used.
Take a bowl class from someone else they might require a parting tool and might not require the spindle gouge.

If you want to do pens and bottle stoppers
You need spindle gouge or a skew or both.

If you want to do lidded boxes and other spindles a parting tool

I suggest checkout Packard woodturning tools and craft supplies.
The HSS Packard label these are good quality tools at reasonable prices
The Artisan tools from Craft supplies are similar in cost and value. Packard is closer to you faster delivery

1/2 Bowl gouge Around $65
3/8 Spindle gouge around $35
3/4 Scraper Around $55

Hope this helps a bit. Big thing is finding a mentor or a formal class.
Al

Thanks for the info. I am hoping to get into a class soon. There is one next week at the local Woodcraft. The class is 75 dollars and is for beginners. They provide instruction, wood and tools. I live 60 miles from it, so it is not so local. However, I did find a chapter that meets there and they have a few members who live near me. I signed up for their website, but have not heard anything. They are the Bluegrass Area Wood Turners.
 
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Bill Boehme

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I have everything, but the lathe tools. What is a good starter set? I keep reading people say to buy cheaper ones, because you chew them up learning to sharpen them. I have a full shop full of all kinds of tools, I am just adding a lathe.

I bought a Sorby starter set a number of years ago. They are good, but get almost no use after the first few months mostly because they are all small.

Regarding what you have read from others about "chewing them up from sharpening", I disagree and think that statements like that are extreme exaggeration unless somebody treats them like lawnmower blades and pays no attention to good advice found in books, videos, and elsewhere. After about nine years, the tools in my beginners set are probably within an eighth of an inch of the original lengths (and for certain within a quarter inch). Besides, think of turning tools as you would think of sandpaper as being expendables.
 
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Nova 1" x 8 TPI Precision Midi Chuck Promotional Package

Is this the chuck I need starting out?

Ideal for mini, midi, and smaller lathes or for smaller turnings on a large lathe. The Nova Precision Midi Chuck is packed with features and uses the same accessories as the Nova, SuperNova, SuperNova2 and the Nova Titan Chucks (without the need to use an adaptor plate as required with older Compac Chucks). Fast action, only one turn to tighten makes it ideal for production turning of smaller pieces. Comes standard with 50mm jaws (automatic jaw safety stop) and includes a Woodworm screw. Ideal for bowl work up to 12" in diameter and 3" to 4" deep. Body is 3-7/16" in diameter, 2-3/8" deep and weighs 2.9 lb.


Comes standard with 50mm jaws
Ideal for bowl work up to 12" in diameter and 3" to 4" deep
Body is 3-7/16" in diameter, 2-3/8" deep and weighs 2.9 lb.
 
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I have all nova chucks as do most of the turners from here and the clubs they are good chucks I have not seen the 1 refered to there advantage is all their jaws fit all the chucks so if you need a larger one later it's no problem.

Ian
 

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I have heard, but I don't know for certain that particular model chuck has a more limited range of motion for its jaws than the other Nova chucks. For the other Nova chucks, I believe that the range of diameters for the jaws when turning bowels is about 3/4 inch from minimum diameter to maximum diameter. I see that it uses tommy bars rather than a "key" to tighten the jaws -- if you have three hands then that is not a problem, but otherwise I would go for the type that uses a key and makes it far easier to hold the work and tighten the chuck at the same time. And, what "features" would it be it packed with that almost all other chucks come with? :D
 
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The Tommy Bar version is for practical purposes the original Nova chuck. I still have one, still use it for 20+ years. Use the tailstock as the third hand if you don't care to set and squeeze the bars to tighten, though that's a pretty simple thing to learn for a guy who's ever owned a router with two wrenches.

The liability attorneys say no more than 12" and 680 rpm, and I believe them on half. No need for more than 680, but the way I turn, using the tailstock to keep the job between centers until the very end, 16" is not a problem with the chuck or the 50mm in a mortise. Definitely a nice thing to have, because it keeps you turning more than fiddling with other ways of mounting.

A normal set of six tools contains five you will always use. Parting, roughing and 1/2" gouge, and a pair of skews. Last is normally a round-nosed scraper. Some use that, too. So get a set of something like the Benjamin's Best to learn with. Don't be one of those workmen who blames the tools and keeps grinding to a different contour every week. They'll go fast if you do. Learn enough to know that you might do better with a modified grind before you do it. Until then, use the tool as its own jig, laying it to the wheel or hone heel to toe and taking two light passes to brighten the metal.

If you're going to go directly to bowls (nice spelling, Bill) get a "bowl" gouge of 3/8 to 1/2" flute and ~8" metal. Need not be a super alloy. This will be one tool you will have to regrind, as it will come probably straight across. Take it to your class and draw the "ears" back a bit. Use a few different types of grind at the class if available, and pick one to get yourself proficient enough to chose another grind to suit your style if needed.
 
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The Tommy Bar version is for practical purposes the original Nova chuck. I still have one, still use it for 20+ years. Use the tailstock as the third hand if you don't care to set and squeeze the bars to tighten, though that's a pretty simple thing to learn for a guy who's ever owned a router with two wrenches.

The liability attorneys say no more than 12" and 680 rpm, and I believe them on half. No need for more than 680, but the way I turn, using the tailstock to keep the job between centers until the very end, 16" is not a problem with the chuck or the 50mm in a mortise. Definitely a nice thing to have, because it keeps you turning more than fiddling with other ways of mounting.

A normal set of six tools contains five you will always use. Parting, roughing and 1/2" gouge, and a pair of skews. Last is normally a round-nosed scraper. Some use that, too. So get a set of something like the Benjamin's Best to learn with. Don't be one of those workmen who blames the tools and keeps grinding to a different contour every week. They'll go fast if you do. Learn enough to know that you might do better with a modified grind before you do it. Until then, use the tool as its own jig, laying it to the wheel or hone heel to toe and taking two light passes to brighten the metal.

If you're going to go directly to bowls (nice spelling, Bill) get a "bowl" gouge of 3/8 to 1/2" flute and ~8" metal. Need not be a super alloy. This will be one tool you will have to regrind, as it will come probably straight across. Take it to your class and draw the "ears" back a bit. Use a few different types of grind at the class if available, and pick one to get yourself proficient enough to chose another grind to suit your style if needed.

Thanks for all the helpful information.
 

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Nova 1" x 8 TPI Precision Midi Chuck Promotional Package

Is this the chuck I need starting out?

Ideal for mini, midi, and smaller lathes or for smaller turnings on a large lathe. The Nova Precision Midi Chuck is packed with features and uses the same accessories as the Nova, SuperNova, SuperNova2 and the Nova Titan Chucks (without the need to use an adaptor plate as required with older Compac Chucks). Fast action, only one turn to tighten makes it ideal for production turning of smaller pieces. Comes standard with 50mm jaws (automatic jaw safety stop) and includes a Woodworm screw. Ideal for bowl work up to 12" in diameter and 3" to 4" deep. Body is 3-7/16" in diameter, 2-3/8" deep and weighs 2.9 lb.

Comes standard with 50mm jaws
Ideal for bowl work up to 12" in diameter and 3" to 4" deep
Body is 3-7/16" in diameter, 2-3/8" deep and weighs 2.9 lb.

David,
you have had some good replies.,

Most of the chucks on the market today have
A key to tighten and loosen them
Threaded inserts to fit popular lathes
And sets of jaws.
This Nova has the tommy bars and 1x8 threads re cut right into the chuck but all the Nova jaws will fit it.

You can get this chuck reconditioned from novatoolsusa.com for $90.
So I will go out on a limb and say it will be the best quality chuck you can find for $90
The Nova folks have been really kind tour local turning clubs.

I don't care for the jaw profile on this chuck. The jaws are basically straight with a little bead at the top.
They just don't hold as well as other profiles. I have the original Nova which is very similar with 2 tommy bars.
I Stopped using it with students because it was the only chuck anyone was having bowls come out of the chuck.

For bowls, i prefer the ONEWAY serrated jaws or dovetail jaws.
Professional Bowl turners are sort split close to 50-50 on ONEWAY chucks with serrated jaws and Vicmarc chucks with dovetail jaws

It has been my experience that beginners have a slightly easier time with the ONEWAY jaws.
Easy to make a 90 degree tenon a little under a 1/2" long.
I prefer the dovetail grip because the tenon can be shorter and hold really well. Heck they will grip in a groove.
The problem beginners have is not matching the dovetail profile and the get into problems.

The ONEWAY Talon is a nice chuck for a small lathe. The small Vic mark is excellent too.
The Talon comes with serrated jaws and later on you can add the dovetail jaws.

For most end grain or spindle work, I prefer the ONEWAY jaws.
The ONEWAY jaws are always my choice for holding square blanks and for holding any piece with 2 jaws.

Have fun,
Al
 
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Thanks for the additional info Al. The chuck part is really difficult for me, because I don't want to spend a 100 bucks and be disappointed or have the wrong chuck. Woodcraft currently has that Nova chuck on sale for $99, that is why I was inquiring about it.
 
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David,
You may get to work with some of the chucks at the woodcraft workshop.
Also get some advice from the local club folks.

Most serious turners end up owning several chucks.
It's not an easy choice.
Al

That's what I plan on doing. I'm not buying anything until I go to a class and talk with some turners face to face and actually use the tools. I am pretty certain of getting the Delta 46-460 though, the Jet 1221VS, might beat it out, but it is leading right now. I am just trying to obtain as much info as possible. I am a heavy duty researcher.

David
 

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... (nice spelling, Bill) ....

I was doing the southern phonetic spelling. :D

My fingers have a reduced sense of proprioception and I depend a lot on the spell checker to ferret out most of the errors caused by hitting two adjacent keys.

... The Talon comes with serrated jaws and later on you can add the dovetail jaws...

Actually, Al, the Talon comes with profiled jaws which are significantly different than serrated jaws. I think that most turners are not aware of the difference, but if you go to the Oneway site, you can find a description of the three different styles of jaws that they produce along with the advantages and disadvantages of each. Serrated jaws can easily mark tenons while profiled jaws are much kinder to the wood.

BTW, the Talon is a very fine chuck. I like them so much that I have four of them and generally prefer them to my Stronghold except for very large heavy stuff that isn't quite big enough to make me decide that I ought to use a faceplate.

MM, my spell checker caught nine spelling errors while typing this post. I'll leave it as an exercise to the reader to spot any others. :)
 
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Thanks for the additional info Al. The chuck part is really difficult for me, because I don't want to spend a 100 bucks and be disappointed or have the wrong chuck. Woodcraft currently has that Nova chuck on sale for $99, that is why I was inquiring about it.

Darn nice price, if you're looking to save a few shekels. The old tenon vs mortise debate arises, as you note. The 50mm standard are not really tenon jaws, though then can do the job. They do the mortise well, as do the 25mm, though it would be nice if they included the 25mm pin jaws instead of the short ones. If you want a tenon instead of a mortise, you'll want the so-called 75mm jaws. Good inside dovetail to automatically wedge up against the shoulder of your tenon. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000403/10880/Nova-75mm-Bowl-Jaw-Set.aspx They're up over 20% since last year. Still, for the cost of the Oneway, you get three options.

The Nova clone sold through PSI as "Barracuda" is pretty well regarded, giving good variety as well as quality for the money. http://www.amazon.com/PSI-CSC2000C-...id=1375350294&sr=8-2&keywords=barracuda+chuck
 

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Actually, Al, the Talon comes with profiled jaws which are significantly different than serrated jaws. I think that most turners are not aware of the difference, but if you go to the Oneway site, you can find a description of the three different styles of jaws that they produce along with the advantages and disadvantages of each. Serrated jaws can easily mark tenons while profiled jaws are much kinder to the wood.

BTW, the Talon is a very fine chuck. I like them so much that I have four of them and generally prefer them to my Stronghold . :)

Bill,
You are correct. The profiled jaws are of course serrated but the profile giving each jaw 2 broad areas of contact gives the superior old.
And traditional serrated jaws are just round on the inside.

I like the Talon for small work and usually use it on small lathes. However I have been using the stronghold when I demo natural edge bowls on small lathes.
The mass of the strong hold dampens some of the vibration allowing a slightly faster speed.

ONEWAY also calls their dovetail jaws "smooth jaws" -:)

The profile jaws are going to mark the tenon but not as badly as the sharp corners of other jaws.

Al
 
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hockenbery

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I recently purchased the jet 1221vs and I'm pleased with it.

One of the reasons I chose it over the Delta is the service issues Delta has been having.

For what it is worth

Jet/Powermatic company has been extremely supportive of AAW and woodturning in general. Whenever I contacted the folks at the company on behalf of AAW
They would ask what can we do for AAW.

I had 2 bad experiences with Delta on behalf of AAW when Delta backed out of commitments.
Their attitude was what can AAW do for Delta....

I will also mention that in addition to Jet/Powermatic, ONEWAY, Stubby, Robust, Vicmarc(woodworkers emporium), Technatool... Have all been extremely generous to AAW and our woodturning community. All of these companies and the men and women who run them are pleasant to deal with and very supportive of AAW.
That same attitude carries over to supporting the people who buy their equipment.

Al
 
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For what it is worth

Jet/Powermatic company has been extremely supportive of AAW and woodturning in general. Whenever I contacted the folks at the company on behalf of AAW
They would ask what can we do for AAW.

I had 2 bad experiences with Delta on behalf of AAW when Delta backed out of commitments.
Their attitude was what can AAW do for Delta....

I will also mention that in addition to Jet/Powermatic, ONEWAY, Stubby, Robust, Vicmarc(woodworkers emporium), Technatool... Have all been extremely generous to AAW and our woodturning community. All of these companies and the men and women who run them are pleasant to deal with and very supportive of AAW.
That same attitude carries over to supporting the people who buy their equipment.

Al

Al,

Does Powermatic make Jet products?

David
 
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Delta is losing ground fast after these last few comments. Anyone wanna help em out or watch em lose out to Jet.

I see the 1221VS is $799 every where all the time. Does it ever go on sale?
 
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For what it is worth

Jet/Powermatic company has been extremely supportive of AAW and woodturning in general. Whenever I contacted the folks at the company on behalf of AAW
They would ask what can we do for AAW.

I had 2 bad experiences with Delta on behalf of AAW when Delta backed out of commitments.
Their attitude was what can AAW do for Delta....

I will also mention that in addition to Jet/Powermatic, ONEWAY, Stubby, Robust, Vicmarc(woodworkers emporium), Technatool... Have all been extremely generous to AAW and our woodturning community. All of these companies and the men and women who run them are pleasant to deal with and very supportive of AAW.
That same attitude carries over to supporting the people who buy their equipment.

Al


I see what you mean now. I just found out if you buy a Jet 1221VS by Dec 31. 2013 you get a free year membership to AAW.


http://blog.woodcraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/AAW-Membership.pdf
 

hockenbery

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David,

Try Osolnik Machinery, berea, Kentucky.
It is run by joe Osolnik.

They carry Powermatics and some Jet machines. I have never heard of anyone beating his price on the powermatic lathes.

Not sure if he has the jet VS1221 or not.

Search on machinery osolnik to get his His web site then Call and ask.
Web site is difficult to use.

Al
 
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David,

Try Osolnik Machinery, berea, Kentucky.
It is run by joe Osolnik.

They carry Powermatics and some Jet machines. I have never heard of anyone beating his price on the powermatic lathes.

Not sure if he has the jet VS1221 or not.

Search on machinery osolnik to get his His web site then Call and ask.
Web site is difficult to use.

Al

Thanks for the tip. He is a real honest guy. He told me he wasn't cheap enough on small machines only the larger ones. He told me to go to Amazon.com.

David
 

Bill Boehme

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Al,

Does Powermatic make Jet products?

David

Not quite. Jet, Powermatic, and Wilton along with others are part of Walter Meier Manufacturing Americas in in La Vergne, TN. The parent company, Walter Meier Holding Corporation is located in Auburn, WA. It appears that Powermatic and Jet are brand names of the WMH Tool Group and their woodworking machines are primarily made in Taiwan and elsewhere on the Pacific Rim.

If you are interested here is a brief history of WMH. Also, Here is a chart showing the organizational structure. Jet does have a web site where they can display their woodworking wares. Here is a brief history of Jet and here is a brief history of Powermatic. And finally, here is a brief description of Jet's organization.
 
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