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Potential Lathe

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Just wondering if this is worth the look? They are asking $400


Craftsman variable speed wood lathe

38" inch Spindle Turning
15" Inboard Bowl Turning
20" Outboard Bowl Turning
2 HP (maximum developed)
Variable Speed 400-2000 RPM

A cast iron and fully functional, well-maintained woodturning lathe with mobile base and extras (see below).
Moving and do not have room for my lathe any longer.

Comes with:
Lathe
Tail Stock/Spindle Attachment
Two Faceplates
Tool Rest w/ Two Attachments (short & long)
6 Piece Woodturning Tool Set w/ Case
 

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odie

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For $400, it looks like an inexpensive way to get started in turning. If there is any chance of getting a more substantial lathe, that would be a better option, but this little one would work for the time being.

For some people, getting a lathe with the intent of upgrading later, isn't the best way to go. They become stuck with the least best option, because that's what they have......not to mention that once you start purchasing accessories that are specific to the lathe spindle and Morse tapers, it becomes doubly hard to upgrade.

If it were me, from what I know now, I'd go all the way and borrow if I had to.......get a first rate lathe.

ooc
 

hockenbery

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Tyler,

The lathe is comparable to the jet and delta 12" lathes selling new in the $800 ball park.

400 rpm low speed is a little too fast for some sanding and for hand chasing threads.
It should be fine for most bowls blanks if you get them balanced for weight.
If you want to turn bowls you would probably need to beef up the stand and weight with sandbags.

The locks on the the tool rest and the banjo have short handles. But most inexpensive lathes do.
You will need a knock out bar any piece I'd steel will do.

If you get the lathe and a solid class or two you should be fine for spindles and bowls up to 13"
Skills trump equipment. You can turn crappy work on abreast lathe and great work an crappy lathe.

And those are nice size bowls.
This lathe will seem under powered even though it says 2 HP.
That will teach you better technique as you will have to cut efficiently.

You may not get fully bitten by the turning bug.
Of every 2 members that join a woodturning club 1 will drop out of turning within 3 years the other one sticks with it.
probably a good starter lathe.

Al
 
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john lucas

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Some of those lathes have really been dogs. Some people really like them. Sears is very bad about not supporting the lathe if something breaks. If it works fine youll probably enjoy it. Just wanted to let you know up front that they can be a problem.
 
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Tyler,

The lathe is comparable to the jet and delta 12" lathes selling new in the $800 ball park.

400 rpm low speed is a little too fast for some sanding and for hand chasing threads.
It should be fine for most bowls blanks if you get them balanced for weight.
If you want to turn bowls you would probably need to beef up the stand and weight with sandbags.

The locks on the the tool rest and the banjo have short handles. But most inexpensive lathes do.
You will need a knock out bar any piece I'd steel will do.

If you get the lathe and a solid class or two you should be fine for spindles and bowls up to 13"
Skills trump equipment. You can turn crappy work on abreast lathe and great work an crappy lathe.

And those are nice size bowls.
This lathe will seem under powered even though it says 2 HP.
That will teach you better technique as you will have to cut efficiently.

You may not get fully bitten by the turning bug.
Of every 2 members that join a woodturning club 1 will drop out of turning within 3 years the other one sticks with it.
probably a good starter lathe.

Al
Tyler mentioned in another thread that he's a new turner - I hardly think hand-chasing threads should be a concern at this point. :D

I would pass on this lathe - top speed of 2000 RPM is too limiting, IMO. You won't want to turn anything 15" on that lathe unless it's mounted to a block of concrete...and definitely would not do anything that size outboard unless the piece starts out very well balanced, or else it's....ride'em cowboy. Craftsman also rates their motors at "developed" horsepower - so it's not a fair representation of it's actual capability.

If you keep looking, you should be able to find a Jet 1236 for around $400 - much better than a Craftsman, IMHO.

I looked on Craigslist in Minneapolis area and see several Jet mini lathes. Mini lathes are a great place to start, and even as an experienced turner, there's always a use for a mini lathe around the shop.

There's also a a Jet 1642 in Hudson for $1600 and sounds like it comes with chucks, tools: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/tls/4132685386.html - it may be outside the budget, but it definitely will give you room to grow.

I would get in touch with every local turning club near you and start asking if anyone has a lathe to sell.
 
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guess I'll be the one to drop the dime . . .

I don't know if that lathe is a little newer version or older version of the Craftsman I own. Very similar, same flimsy design, same "two horsepower", same 15x38", same "400-2000" RPM. Note I am using quotes around most of the spec's, there is a reason for that!

I spend roughly 20-25% of my lathe time working on the lathe. The reeves drive malfunctions on a regular basis despite all efforts to make it work and a design flaw had to be corrected or it ate primary drive belts. Note that I have years of experience as an auto-mechanic, race mechanic, and as a mechanical designer, not my first rodeo but I can't heal this reeves drive for any amount of time.

That piece of cast iron is ridiculously flimsy, compare it to a Jet mini lathe and you will see that the Jet is massively stronger, would be much stronger even if stretched out to the length of the Craftsman. Not particularly recommending the Jet, just pointing out a flaw in the Craftsman. Everything about my Craftsman is poorly made and if you rough in anything from out of balance there is no way to tighten my lathe enough that the alignment of the headstock doesn't move around.

Oh yeah, the company that actually made my lathe and Sears both pretend that it doesn't exist and never did. The one thing I think I can get is a reeves drive belt, a sixty dollar item if I remember correctly.

If you PM me an e-mail I will send some pictures of the reeves drive with the covers off. If you look at the machine it takes very little effort to look at the reeves drive. If it is the same as mine the lathe is overpriced at $200. As I said in a post on another forum only yesterday, I won't even give my lathe away when I upgrade, it would be a dirty trick to play on somebody!

Flimsy and poorly designed in all respects, my lathe's four hundred to two thousand RPM claims are extremely suspect too, underpowered, absolutely nothing to like about my lathe. It does look like the one in your pictures is a close cousin, I don't know if it is newer or older.

Turning isn't much fun when the first question every time you step up to the lathe is if the thing is even going to run. I put a large donut chuck on my lathe to clean up the bottom of the last piece I turned. That was when I discovered that the reeves drive had stuck yet again and if I wanted to finish the piece before the green wood warped I would be turning at three or four times the RPM I wanted to turn. Ever hear an airboat or a helicopter rotor whipping up close and personal? That is what that donut chuck sounded like at high speed. No guts, no gory, so I tried to finish the piece. No real surprise, the bottom came out pretty crappy. I had my mind on other things, like would I live to tell this tale!

If my post leaves some doubt about my thoughts, I wouldn't buy this lathe just because it is flimsy, note the stand I eventually built for mine. I wouldn't buy it because I don't think the headstock alignment will stay true if you try to rough in anything out of balance. If the reeves drive matches mine I wouldn't buy it because it is a total POS. Aside from the reeves drive you might be able to use it as the world's largest pen and very small box lathe. Can actually probably turn spindles on it too if the reeves drive doesn't match mine. One plus, by the time you try to use it for three months you will have a deep understanding of the internal workings or not workings of a lathe! Reeves drives are somewhat problematic, this particular reeves drive is a disaster.

Hu
 

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hockenbery

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Bill Boehme

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I agree with Hu. The first thing that I noticed when glancing over the specs was "max developed". Before I saw that it was a Craftsman lathe, I said to myself, "self, that is a Sears Craftsman lathe and they lie like the Devil when it comes to horsepower ratings". At best, the motor is a half horse, but more likely a quarter horse.

Hu has posted his woes in dealing with the drive system on his Craftsman lathe. It would be worth reading just in case you feel like you want to buy that dog. My first lathe was also one that I spent much more time repairing than using for turning and it was NOT a pleasant way to get into woodturning. I would not be the least bit surprised if most people who buy one of those lathes lose interest in turning. It was only because I was determined that I overcame the discouragement of using such a sorry lathe.
 

hockenbery

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Al, I feel obligated to disagree. In my opinion since I am familiar with all lathes mentioned, the Craftsman isn't even remotely close.

Bill,
Okay. Based on your experience you are more negative about the machine than I am.
I am not a fan of any of the Sears lathes but people do use them.

I was thinking more about $800 for a jet or $400 for the sears...
Maybe it should be $200 for the Sears to make them comparable

At the end of the day what you can accomplish with the three machines is comparable.
The Sears will turn a 13" bowl the 12" machines a 10-11" bowl.
I did say it was underpowered I think you agreed with that. :)

I suspect you would not take the sears if it were free and that might be the right answer.

Al
 

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Well I was being polite this morning. We had one that our club used for about a year or so. It was absolutely the worst thing I've turned on short of the older round tube craftsman lathes. As Hu said we constantly had to work on the Reeves drives. Sears no longer carried the switch when it broke but fortunately we found one pretty close at a local electronic story. The tailstock never would lock solidly and was always hard to move because the casting were ground so rough.
Based on my experience alone I would throw it in the river and make a coral reef out of it. However I do run into people who own one every now and then and really seem to like them.
I agree with the others suggestions. A good quality mini lathe is a fantastic way to start, everything about it works better than the craftstman you just can't turn larger stuff. That being said when you do try to turn larger stuff on the Craftsman you will just be frustrated.
 

Bill Boehme

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Bill,
Okay. Based on your experience you are more negative about the machine than I am.....l

Did I come off sounding a bit negative? :D :D :D :D

A few years ago, a new turner in our club bought a used Craftsman lathe very similar to this one. I tried to politely talk him out of it, but it didn't work. He really regretted buying it and gave up woodturning until one of our members provided some mentoring and showed him what a decent lathe will do. I decided that it is better to be brutally frank because sometimes a person more or less has their mind made up barring any really significant reason to reconsider.
 
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Don't buy the craftsman. Please save yourself countless hours of frustration :mad: that will turn you away from lathe work forever.

Save your $ for one of the lathes mentioned here by others.
 
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I just saw this:

Jet 1236 with the infamous reeves drive. I have had no trouble with this lathe, just want more swing. I'll include a PSI Barracuda2 chuck system, cole laws, 2 tool rests drive and live centers, and everything that came with it new.$550 will deliver in Maine, Bangor to Presque Isle for gas money, or pick-up.​

on another forum. If you are interested, please go to the Woodturners Resource at http://www.woodturnersresource.com/

Go to the forum and then look for the WR Classified.

I hope it is OK to mention that site here:eek:. I review notes and postings on both sites.:)
 

Donna Banfield

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Don't

I started on that very lathe. New to turning and I outgrew (translate...got tired and frustrated at the numerous inefficiencies) that lathe in 6 weeks, and immediately began looking for a replacement.

If you were ONLY planning on turning an occasional spindle in the hobby furniture shop, and didn't care that it would only be used more than once a year, I still couldn't recommend that lathe.
 

john lucas

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Your right Bill, even sharks might spit that thing back out. Not heavy enough to even make a good boat anchor.
 
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WOW! Thanks for all of the replies and knowledgeable information. This is exactly what I was looking for! After reading your replies I guess my biggest question/hesitation is this:

I don't know whether I should save up for a full size lathe that will give me the most capacity or start with a decent mini/midi to learn the skills/techniques. The Delta 46-460 seems like a pretty decent lathe... I've seen it in MANY videos and heard of being used in many clubs as there "practice lathes". I've also read that they have (or maybe had) horrible customer service if you should need it.

I'm fairly positive I'll enjoy this craft if I learn the proper techniques as I like building/wood working/working with my hands but again it still makes me hesitant to invest in a big lathe in case I don't end up liking it.

I guess anything can be sold should need be... :p

Again, thanks for all the replies and any more advice/tips are appreciated as I continue to search for my "perfect" starter lathe! :D
 
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really the 1642 I mentioned earlier in Hudson, MN is a pretty decent price.

definitely worth looking at - and if you don't enjoy turning, it will be easier to re-sell than a POS Craftsman.

(yes, I had a Craftsman once too - so I am qualified to label it as such)
 
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Yesterday there was a thread by Neal Addy "getting started in woodturning". Excellent guidance for the selection of your first lathe.

Thanks Dwight! I have read that article a couple times... it's great!

really the 1642 I mentioned earlier in Hudson, MN is a pretty decent price.

definitely worth looking at - and if you don't enjoy turning, it will be easier to re-sell than a POS Craftsman.

(yes, I had a Craftsman once too - so I am qualified to label it as such)

I did look at the ad and that's actually Hudson, WI ;) It's right across the border from Minneapolis, MN. That's about a 5.5 - 6 hour drive from where I'm at. :p
 

Bill Boehme

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Many woodturners own a mini/midi lathe as well as a larger lathe. Some, like me get a large lathe first and then a mini. Others get a mini first. A mini is always good to have for various things. The Delta midi lathe is excellent. I have turned on that model on a number of occasions. I have not turned on the new Jet midi, but I hear that it is also a great lathe. You may find tht a midi is all that you will ever need. You can't go wrong getting one in my opinion.
 
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Thanks for the mini lathe nod Bill!

Here is the details of the CL posting:
Jet 1642 1 1/2hp lathe w/ tools - $1600 (Hudson)
For sale Jet 1642 1 1/2hp variable speed lathe in excellent condition with very low hours.
Also have many other tools.
2- chucks
live ends
drill chuck
many bowl turning and spindle chisels
Lathe has a ballast box which can hold many bags of sand or weights

For not knowing much this seems like a pretty good deal after checking the price of a new one ($2345 is the lowest I found)...however there were no pictures so condition is sight un-seen.
 

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tyler That's a good price with the accessories. We are going to sell our club 1642 for $1200 without any accessories and it's fairly well used and they wanted a low price to make it sell quickly. Call him up and offer 1400 and go from there. Tell him you need to cover the gas for the trip. I have turned on a lot of lathes out there and the Jet 1642 is about the best deal for the money when it's new. Used it's even a better deal. You can buy a new Nova 1624 for a little over a grand and it's a good lathe for the price but not as nice as the Jet. It step pulleys for speed adjustment instead of variable speed like the Jet.
 
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hockenbery

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Tyler,
Can't see the lathe from here either.
The two chucks, centers and tools depending on quality may have cost $200 to over $500 new.
John had great advice. You will need a trailer or pickup. Take the head stock and tailstock off to make moving it an easy two people job.

My ranking of the lathes mentioned is:
Jet 1642. Way at the top. It is the only lathe 80% of the turners out there will ever need.
It will handle a 14" bowl easily This lathe will handle a nice sized hollow form too.

I have done hollow form demos on this lathe. I have also done them on a ONEWAY 1224.
I would not do a hollow form demo on a midi, I would be too concerned with having disappointing results.
I have hollowed Christmas ornament balls on the 10" minis.

Jet1221vs. A little heavier and few nicer features than the Delta
Delta 46-460. Being discounted. Lists for more than the jet but being sold a $100 cheaper.

I don't own any of these lathes but have turned on all of them and had students use them in workshops.
The all do what they do well.

My rule of thumb on lathe capacities is to take away 2". A 12" lathe turns a 10" bowl comfortably.
In my style of turning I like to true the rim of a bowl with it facing the head stock. Without the 2", the tool rest cannot be moved to that side without taking the bowl off the lathe for 3 cuts and the taken off to move the tool rest back.

Lots of clubs are buying 3-6 midis for use in club hands on sessions.
They handle pieces big enough to use for instruction and are fairly easy to store and move.

Al
 
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lathe size

Tyler,

We all start off thinking we want very large capacity and I will admit that there is nothing wrong with bigger equipment other than the space it takes up and price. However, if you start looking at what is on display on this site and what is offered for sale you will find very few pieces that can't be turned on a lathe with a 16" swing. You are more likely to want a hollowing system than a bigger lathe in my opinion.

If you look at age and pricing on used lathes you will see that you can run a quality lathe bought used for a few years and resale for little or no loss if you decide you want a larger lathe. You are more likely to find that two lathes are better than one!

About the used lathe you are considering, pretty much everyone has a cell phone that can at least send you low quality snaps or take pictures to e-mail. Some people finish on a lathe and aren't the neatest, the lathe looks horrible in a few months! That has nothing to do with quality of the lathe. One that has been used as an anvil and truly abused is a different story but the worst I have found on wood lathes is heavy rust.

I would request photo's before driving that far. I once drove four hours each way to buy a canoe "in excellent condition". An aluminum canoe to fish the marsh was gonna collect some dings pretty fast anyway and even downgrading a couple levels as I usually did when reading condition in an ad I would have bought it. I was an unhappy camper to get there and find the canoe was absolute scrap!(With or without the "s") That was in a little earlier time but lesson learned, make people provide pictures before a long drive. Then I would go for at least a split on the gas. Somebody asking $1600 is probably hoping for $1500 and may take a little less. Some prices are firm but most people list a little high so they can negotiate.

Hu
 
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Tyler,
As you well know, living where float planes out-number lawn mowers, you're going to have to travel to get what you want. You probably figured on driving to the Twin Cities, so maybe Hudson is tolerable.

That being said, you could also keep monitoring craigslist and one day exactly what you're looking for will show up. (Only to be snatched up by someone quicker than you :( ) When I was seriously shopping, I was amazed at the large number of lathes I turned up by contacting 'local' turning clubs, so that's another good source. http://www.woodturner.org/community/chapters/LocalChapters.asp#126

I would reinforce the comments that a good quality mini/midi is a fine tool and a relatively cheap way to get your feet wet. I could probably do 90% of what I do on my Powermatic on a good 12" lathe.

Finally, half the cost of getting started is not the lathe, but the accessories. Figure that into your budgeting, and appreciate the value if a lathe seller includes accessories in a price, assuming they are in good condition and do the things you want to do. And don't put much value in older, carbon turning tools--(Yes guys, they are usable and lots of you have used them in your turning careers, but what I said was, "they don't have much value." ;) )
 
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Thanks for the input! The closest "local" club is 2-3 hrs drive from me... But I've contacted a couple to try and get some shop days set up. My initial thought was to buy a mini lathe (probably the Delta 46-460 or Jet 1221vs) but several people have recommended buying a bigger lathe to avoid having to upgrade in the not too distant future. On the other hand several people say having a mini will satisfy you for quite some time until I gain more experience.

I figured on spending around $1000 buying a new mini lathe and a basic setup of tools to get started. I'm of the opinion that when you buy tools it's better to buy quality tools right off the bat to get your money worth. I can totally see that lathe work has most everything to do with the person behind the machine and not the machine itself but having a quality machine helps :p

So from what I've gathered from everyone's option is that I can't really go wrong with a mini and that Jet 1642 isn't a bad choice either as long as it wasn't abused! It really comes down to how much my wife is going to allow me to spend ;)

Thanks again!
 

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I agree with Dean. A mini (10 inch swing) or a midi (12 inch swing) may be enough for anything that you will ever want to turn. I have turned very few bowls or other things larger than 10 inches diameter.

If you do look at the Jet 1642, be very picky about its condition. It would help if you were an experienced turner so that you could assess its condition better. Check for bearing noise -- both running and turning the spindle by hand. Feel for any axial or radial play in the spindle. Check the condition of the ways and how well the tool rest base and tailstock slide on the ways and how well they lock down. Make the seller aware of deficiencies that you find and downgrade the offering price. Of course, it it looks like junk don't even bother negotiating.
 

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Also, check out the Morse taper sockets on both the spindle and the tailstock. They should be smooth and shiny with no rust or galling rings which are evidence of spinning a taper shank. Some turners don't seem to worry about it much, but for me it would be as deal breaker to see a badly damaged Morse taper socket in the spindle. The spindle threads should also look nice and clean and not show signs of wear or filing to remove burrs cause by cross-threading a chuck.
 

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Delta lathe

I have that Delta midi (46-460) with the 12" swing. It is my travel/demo lathe. My primary lathe is a Oneway 2436.

I bought the Delta to replace an older non-variable speed Jet mini lathe. The Delta is a nice lathe for someone just starting out. The cost won't break your wallet, and leaves you cash for those accessories that you'll need. There was a period of time when parts for any Delta machinery were hard to come by. I don't know the reason behind that, but I've also heard that was in the past, and replacement parts are now becoming available. I have also turned (I teach at a Woodcraft store), on the new Variable speed Jet midi. That, too is a very nice lathe.

Most people that stick with Woodturning, when upgrading, tend to keep their mini/midi lathes when they buy a full-sized lathe. If you opted for either the Delta or the Jet midi, and fell deeply into the Woodturning vortex, you may not want to give up either of those smaller lathes -- unless space is a problem :-(. And if that's the case, you need to build a bigger workshop :)
 
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Most people that stick with Woodturning, when upgrading, tend to keep their mini/midi lathes when they buy a full-sized lathe. If you opted for either the Delta or the Jet midi, and fell deeply into the Woodturning vortex, you may not want to give up either of those smaller lathes -- unless space is a problem :-(. And if that's the case, you need to build a bigger workshop :)

Thanks Donna... :) I think it seems I'll try my hand with a mini... Learn the craft... And then build a bigger workshop to accommodate a big late ;) :cool2:
 
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Tyler, I note there are 2 Turncrafter lathes available within a Summer day's drive of you. These are in many respects similar to the Jet mini/midi lathes, and the house brand for one of the well known mail order woodturning retail companies. Both are variable speed, which I highly recommend. One is a "Midi" 12" swing with a 1 hp motor, in Detroit Lakes for $325, with no accessories. The other is a "mini" 10" swing 3/4 hp in Bloomington, with a bed extension, basic turning tool set, inexpensive scroll chuck, and most importantly, a face shield, all priced at $700. Personally, I would consider this overpriced, but it might be a good set up at $500 +/-.

I would suggest we get forum participants who have experience with Turncrafter lathes to weigh in and compare these to the Jet and Delta mini/midi lathes you've already had recommended.
 

Bill Boehme

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I have looked at a few of the Brand X mini lathes at Rocklers and Woodcraft and elsewhere. They probably aren't too bad, but the lower quality fit and finish on them always bother me. I see rough castings that are not cleaned up, ways that are not machined very smooth, and centers on headstock and tailstock that do not line up as well as they do on the name brands. Additionally, parts and service seem to be non-existent on some store brands.

Since you are a beginner, my opinion is that you would be better off buying a new machine with warranty rather than used equipment -- solely because you probably do not have sufficient experience to thoroughly evaluate a used machine. If you knew your way around a lathe it would be a different matter.
 
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Tools?

I was just wonder what everyone would recommend for a set of starter tools? I don't plan on buying "really nice" or expensive ones just because I need to learn how to sharpen them first and I'd rather get good at that with a less expensive set then ruin a spendy set. When I buy a lathe I plan on buying a chuck, tools, and sharpening system of some sort. Anything else I should ponder? I have read that beginner's article but I'm just also looking for suggestions here too!

Thanks!
 

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I was just wonder what everyone would recommend for a set of starter tools? I don't plan on buying "really nice" or expensive ones just because I need to learn how to sharpen them first and I'd rather get good at that with a less expensive set then ruin a spendy set. When I buy a lathe I plan on buying a chuck, tools, and sharpening system of some sort. Anything else I should ponder? I have read that beginner's article but I'm just also looking for suggestions here too!

Thanks!

First what you plan to turn dictates the tools you will want.

I would recommend you buy the 3-5 tools you need now from craft supplies artisan or Packard Packard brand.
These will be quality tools that will serve you well. Some of the cheap Chinese tools are okay but the flutes are usually ground poorly even had one student who had one with a sort of vee flute ground off center.

I would encourage you to sign up for a class and ask your instructor for a tool list.

When I do a beginning bowl class I want the students to have a
Bowl gouge (5/8 diameter bar or 1/2 dual bar)
Spindle gouge 1/2 or 3/8
Round nose scraper 3/4 to 1 1/4

A lot of other instructors would have a different tool list.
Some might include parting tool, square scraper, and a few might not include a spindle gouge.

Al
 
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Bill Boehme

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I was just wonder what everyone would recommend for a set of starter tools? I don't plan on buying "really nice" or expensive ones just because I need to learn how to sharpen them first and I'd rather get good at that with a less expensive set then ruin a spendy set. When I buy a lathe I plan on buying a chuck, tools, and sharpening system of some sort. Anything else I should ponder? I have read that beginner's article but I'm just also looking for suggestions here too!

Thanks!

I think that it is a mistaken notion that I see frequently from beginners that they ought to get cheap tools because they will use them up rather quickly from sharpening. After almost ten years my original tools are, at most, a half-inch shorter than when new -- many are almost the same length as when new. Learning to sharpen is not rocket science nor does it require an apprenticeship. One lesson or one DVD should be sufficient. I am guessing that some of those who wear out tools quickly from sharpening may be sharpening them they way that they have been sharpening lawnmower blades. A typical bowl gouge ought to be good for a few thousand sharpenings.

My suggestion is to get the ""average" tools from Sorby, Crown, Hamlet, Thompson, or the brands mentioned by Al. Then you know that you have good quality tools. There really is no need for "designer" tools at this stage, if ever.

The most important part of learning to sharpen is to get a decent set of grinding wheels. Old out of balance, out of round silicon carbide wheels aren't going to cut the mustard -- or the wood. Treat yourself to some new aluminum oxide wheels (white wheels) or better. For the coarse grit, 40 to 60 grit is usually good. For the fine grit80 is good. A hardness of J or K is ideal for HSS turning tools.
 
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I think that it is a mistaken notion that I see frequently from beginners that they ought to get cheap tools because they will use them up rather quickly from sharpening. After almost ten years my original tools are, at most, a half-inch shorter than when new -- many are almost the same length as when new.
This is one of those "your mileage may vary" situations. I started out with a set of inexpensive Benjamin's Best tools, which fortunately performed quite well. I learned to sharpen free hand on what I was advised to consider my 'sacrificial' tools.

Just now, I measured my original bowl gouge and skew (which I love and use often). They both started with 6 3/8" of steel sticking out of the handle and both now have 4 1/4" of steel left, or about 1/2" per year of use. The bowl gouge started out shorter than usual for the brand name tools and now has only 1 1/4" of usable flute left--it's become my 'undercutting the rim' tool. But I also have a spindle roughing gouge, a smaller skew, and 3 scrapers, which are still plenty long. All for the cost of a single high quality bowl gouge.

That being said, I recently purchased an inexpensive bowl gouge of a different brand to use solely for roughing bowl outsides and it's a nightmare. I can't get the grind I want on it due to the too shallow flute and it gets dull much, much faster than my good gouge, and even faster than my original cheap gouge. This new cheap gouge has been worse than a waste of $35--it's aggravating, produces poor cuts due to vibration and wastes time and steel on frequent sharpening.

I think there is definitely a place for an inexpensive set of tools for beginners, as long as you're careful and lucky enough to select a set with decent steel and flutes. Doing so allows you to do a variety of turning until you discover which type you're going to find most appealing, and it allows you to spend a little more on safety equipment or accessories or lessons.

Having fewer, better quality tools is also a good way to go, as it will be a pleasure to use them and they may be more forgiving. If you also will invest in a good jig set up, like the Wolverine sharpening system, it doesn't have to be expensive, when looked at over the long haul, as Bill points out.

And Tyler, before the snow gets too deep, get in touch with one of your "local" turning clubs and hook up with an experienced turner for hands on help. It's the best thing you can do to get off on the right foot. Duluth (originally I wrote Detroit--what was I thinking???) and Bemidji aren't too far to go for the considerable benefit you'll receive.
 
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Bill Boehme

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That is a lot of very good information for beginners, Dean. If a beginner can find out which brand X tools are worthwhile and which aren't then that is a great help. As you mentioned, there is nothing favorable that can be said about getting a bad tool that doesn't perform well -- all the sharpening practice in the world won't help if the tool doesn't let you know how well you did in sharpening.

I suppose that my concern can be boiled down to one simple thought: a poor quality tool may be more apt to teach poor sharpening technique needed to overcome deficiencies in the steel which might get carried over into sharpening higher quality tools and resulting in wasted steel in those tools.
 
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