• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Blue Sundae, Image 2
Mark Hepburn

Blue Sundae, Image 2

More of the same. Another attempt to shoot manual, with the new gradient background. Comments and suggestions are for sure welcome.
Outstanding work!

I think that I would block most of the light hitting the background. The light on the subject seems too uniform and if the shadows were a bit stronger it would give the subject more depth. Are you using more than one softbox? If so, try just one and then use a bounce card on the left to add a bit of fill light.
 
Also, I looked at the EXIF data and it shows f/5.6, ISO 250, and 1/160 second shutter speed. The depth of field is shallow and that is why parts of the subject are fuzzy. I think that I would try f/16, ISO 100, and a shutter speed somewhere around 1/10 second to 1/5 second as a starting point. I sometimes have an exposure time of 5 seconds, so use whatever length of time is necessary to get the right exposure.
 
Bill,
Thanks!


I have just the one softbox above, but it has four CFLs in it. It's tilted toward the background so should I just point it slightly away? I'm using a bounce card but it seems to have little effect. John Lucas recommended that I narrow the light from the soft box so I'll try that to prevent some of the spill onto the backdrop

The soft box has two settings so I could use just half the lights.

my Nikon D3300 just arrived (I simply couldn't read the icons on the Sony). I'll try those settings tonight. If I understand you, I should use auto focus but set shutter, aperture and ISO manually. BTW, I've got a Luxi meter coming this week to use with a spare iPhone 5.
 
@Mark Hepburn Less light isn't the answer because you will just need to increase the exposure time and the end result will be no change. You need something to physically block some of the light from hitting the background like a piece of black poster board or foamboard (commonly called a "gobo" shorthand for "go between"). Something like a light stand with a boom arm and clip could be used to hold the gobo. This is basically the same thing John Lucas said.

You don't really need a light meter because you already have one ... your camera is an excellent reflected light meter ... although maybe not so good as an incident light meter.

Congrats on the new Nikon D3300. New toys equipment is always good.
 
@Bill Boehme

Okay thanks Bill. I have a spare tripod and I can make a "gobo" out of some poster board and flat black paint. I'll try that later today.

And really, I need that light meter. To go with the other new "tools" :D I have my eye on.

Seriously, I got it because I'd like to really develop a deeper understanding of lighting and the exposure triangle (which currently is as comprehensible as a triquetra). It was $15 on Amazon with free shipping. I remember my dad back in th 50s in City Park in New Orleans. He'd drag the family out and shoot a bunch of slides. We'd wait while he set up and metered and so on for the "spontaneous photos" he'd take. :)

So here I go down another vortex...
 

Media information

Category
Member Galleries
Added by
Mark Hepburn
Date added
View count
3,114
Comment count
5
Rating
0.00 star(s) 0 ratings

Image metadata

Device
SONY ILCE-3000
Aperture
ƒ/5.6
Focal length
55.0 mm
Exposure time
1/160 second(s)
ISO
250
Flash
Off, did not fire
Filename
sundae-composite.jpg
File size
822 KB
Date taken
Sat, 16 July 2016 7:54 AM
Dimensions
1622px x 1000px

Share this media

Back
Top