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Bowl blanks

Joined
Oct 2, 2004
Messages
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Location
Denham Springs, LA
I'm curious to know if it's common to glue up bowl blanks or better to buy 12/4 wood and cut out bowl blanks. If glueing is acceptable, are there any consdirations from experience that I should be aware of?

As always, thanks for any time taken in responding
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2004
Messages
40
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Location
Bucks County PA
Website
sawsndust.com
Most folks don't buy wood for turning unless it's exotics or burls that are not available locally--if they can help it, at least! The best sources for turning stock are in your back yard, in the woods, along the road, from local tree trimmers, etc. Turning is one of those activities that you can use material perfectly unsuitable for other forms of woodworking, too...shorts, chunks of crotch wood, etc.

That said, gluing up is not a problem as long as you don't mind the look of the glue lines! But even that is manageable if you combine species for contrast and use the lines between the layers as part of your final design. Use regular woodworking glue or epoxy and clamp them well until cured.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
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Location
Austin, TX
Website
www.woodturner.org
Totally agree with Jim's response. I created 350 bowl blanks last year. All from tree trimmers and the like. The big bonus was a small storm which created a microburst and knocked a bunch of trees down. The neighbors were happy to see that I was going to use the wood instead of just burn it.

Once you hunt around for wood locally you'll probably be pleasantly surprised. You'll need a chainsaw. I have a $120 Poulan - and it was good enough for those 350 bowl blanks! Use safety equipment and it will be a pleasant experience in the long run.
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
Messages
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3
Just remember chain saws are dangerious. Please purchase yourself a set of chainsaw chaps. If you get tired (and you will) and make that last cut of the day, it may bite you. I was lucky and only was scraped by a tooth after the blade had stopped. I just let it swing to my side. Cut through my jeans and made a nice little thin line on my leg.

We all get to make small mistakes once. Just pls learn from mine.

That being said, I gather most of my wood myself also. Once the word is out people will call you asking if you want trees.
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2004
Messages
146
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0
Location
Winston, OR
glue ups

I do a lot of glue ups using various woods. Here are some things I have learned: 1. NEVER use either Gorilla or Titebond lll glue. I use Titebond ll glue exclusively. 2. ALWAYS use more clamps than you think you need. 3. If you're gluing small pieces to a larger piece then raid your larder for baker's parchment paper. Place it between the glued pieces and the spal (clamping block.) Titebond ll will stick to the parchment paper but only minimally. 4. BE NEAT, care will pay off well in the finished piece. 5. Invest in a GOOD set of cabinet maker's scrapers. 6. HAVE FUN! :D
 
Joined
May 17, 2004
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Gorilla or Titebond lll glue

arbud said:
1. NEVER use either Gorilla or Titebond lll glue. I use Titebond ll glue exclusively.


Why not Gorilla or Titebond III?
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2004
Messages
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Location
Winston, OR
A not so sticky situation

Juteck: Gorilla glue "foams" and expands, or at least appears to, leaving an undesirable glue line. I suspect one could "hide" said line by ebonizing or some other means. It's my opinion Titebond lll has less shear strength than does titebond ll. I have never had a titebond ll joint come apart while turning. Every titebond lll joint (3) has come apart, either totally or in part, while turning.

These have been my experiences and are the bases for my statements. Hey, give them a go if you so desire. Your results may be different than mine, hopefully.
 
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