Branding

[Emiliano Achaval]

I’m thinking of getting a small brand for my work, KEA Maui... What’s available, what do you guys use? Electric? Heat it up with a torch

 

[john lucas]

My dad used the electric one on all of his projects. However I thought it was too large and kind of obnoxious. Design it carefully if you do it. I prefer to personally sign all of mine. I use a Dremel engraver. I leave it plain and unfilled. Cindy Drozda fills hers with silver guilt and it looks great. The woods I use tend to have open pores and the silver gets into those and ruins the signature which is mostly why I shy away from it.

 

[John Torchick]

Fine point Sharpie?????? Several of our club members sign their turnings. Not sure but looks like ink in fine point.

 

[odie]

Howdy Emiliano.....

In the past, I've used both electric branding irons and torch heated branding irons. They both work, but do need to be held exactly flat to the surface being branded, or it looks sloppy. This sounds like an easy task, but I've had so many poorly executed brands done with branding irons, that I eventually gave up on it. The electric branding iron takes too long to come up to temperature.....it's basically an electric soldering iron. The torch heated branding iron can be heated fairly fast if you have a rosebud tip. (I have an acetylene torch) The temperature setting is guesswork......and, you'll find the proper heat is VERY important to a good looking brand, no matter what method is used for heating it.

For the past 25 years, I've been using an electric pen. This also works, but also has some problems associated with it. Wood grain burns unevenly where it's soft and hard. This is very difficult to overcome, if you want something that looks like a signature, and free flowing. It's best to burn slowly with a steady even pace, followed up with some 600gt sandpaper. The heat setting is adjustable, and for my purposes, I've found it's most often between 7-8 on the dial. Softer woods require less heat than harder woods

This unit is the Woodwriter "cub", sold by csusa, and is still being sold.....it's been updated and looks quite different now, but the internal parts are still the same:

View attachment 23163

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I have used a micron or ultra fine point sharpie for a while. On turnings that are 10-15 years old with little handling you can still read it.
Many times it has worn off, it depends on the finish.
I have shifted to using an engraver after finding that I was not getting good results with a burning pen.
Cindy's method of filling the engraving with gold or silver looks really nice. I have had mixed results with the same stuff.
Personally I find brands 'low end craft show'.
That may come off as 'elitist' but if I am going to spend money on a hand made item, a stamped ( branded ) signature diminishes the work.
A fully utility piece, yes. Anything else, not so much.

 

[Dennis J Gooding]

I have used a micron or ultra fine point sharpie for a while. On turnings that are 10-15 years old with little handling you can still read it.
Many times it has worn off, it depends on the finish.
I have shifted to using an engraver after finding that I was not getting good results with a burning pen.
Cindy's method of filling the engraving with gold or silver looks really nice. I have had mixed results with the same stuff.
Personally I find brands 'low end craft show'.
That may come off as 'elitist' but if I am going to spend money on a hand made item, a stamped ( branded ) signature diminishes the work.
A fully utility piece, yes. Anything else, not so much.

I agree with Mark that a brand will tend to devalue arty types of work; just a step above a stick-on label.

 

[Owen Lowe]

I have used a micron or ultra fine point sharpie for a while. On turnings that are 10-15 years old with little handling you can still read it.
Many times it has worn off, it depends on the finish.
I have shifted to using an engraver after finding that I was not getting good results with a burning pen.
Cindy's method of filling the engraving with gold or silver looks really nice. I have had mixed results with the same stuff.
Personally I find brands 'low end craft show'.
That may come off as 'elitist' but if I am going to spend money on a hand made item, a stamped ( branded ) signature diminishes the work.
A fully utility piece, yes. Anything else, not so much.

Hear, Hear! My experiences and preferences mirror yours.

• The “permanent” markers just aren’t, given time and use.
• I use either a Dremel vibrating “engraver” or a very fine ball tip burning pen; it depends on the material and the look I think will be best for the piece.
• Unless I would be super careful, there just isn’t enough flat real estate on my pieces to do a brand impression and I much prefer the "hand of the maker" signature to a brand. I think it supports the characteristic that every piece is unique.

 

[john lucas]

Here is what I do although these are just samples to show the technique. The top one is the dremel engraver. The bottom one is a woodburner. The trick I found with the wood burner is to first of all get a really good burning power supply. The cheap ones don't control the heat accurately enough. The second tip is to use low heat and light pressure. Both techniques require practice to get them looking good.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I agree with Mark. I had some pieces laser engraved and then felt like it made the pieces look machine made. Now, I sign my name with a pyrography writing tip or a Dremel vibro engraving tool.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I either sign or initial and date with Masterburner woodburner and I made a circle tip to place 3 interlocked rings (for The Trinity) in the center if the turning is large enough.

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

I tried signing my bowls with a wood burner and it looked like I had the DT's. I bought a branding iron with my initials ( PMK ) and heat it with a torch. Get it red hot so you don't have to put much pressure on it . Get out some scraps and practice. I hold a section of Bamboo in a vice and put the Iron in it. The torch is set to heat 1" from the Iron. The Bamboo holder lets me return the Iron to the same spot for reheating.

 

[Lamar Wright]

Here is what I do although these are just samples to show the technique. The top one is the dremel engraver. The bottom one is a woodburner. The trick I found with the wood burner is to first of all get a really good burning power supply. The cheap ones don't control the heat accurately enough. The second tip is to use low heat and light pressure. Both techniques require practice to get them looking good.

Hi John, they all look good to me but the bottom RHS signature on that bowl is perrrrrrfect.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

My dad used the electric one on all of his projects. However I thought it was too large and kind of obnoxious. Design it carefully if you do it. I prefer to personally sign all of mine. I use a Dremel engraver. I leave it plain and unfilled. Cindy Drozda fills hers with silver guilt and it looks great. The woods I use tend to have open pores and the silver gets into those and ruins the signature which is mostly why I shy away from it.

I have the Drexel engraver, I have been using that. I just sign KEA Maui and the name of the wood. Agree I have seen some that are too big... I’m thinking very small Kea Woodturning Maui in a semi circle might look good...

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I have used a micron or ultra fine point sharpie for a while. On turnings that are 10-15 years old with little handling you can still read it.
Many times it has worn off, it depends on the finish.
I have shifted to using an engraver after finding that I was not getting good results with a burning pen.
Cindy's method of filling the engraving with gold or silver looks really nice. I have had mixed results with the same stuff.
Personally I find brands 'low end craft show'.
That may come off as 'elitist' but if I am going to spend money on a hand made item, a stamped ( branded ) signature diminishes the work.
A fully utility piece, yes. Anything else, not so much.

I have a lot of tips for pirography, but its not eas to burn something small nice and readable... So far the Dremel engraver, Betty Scarpino showed us that, works best... I thought a branding iron would enhance the piece, but now I’m not so sure...

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

You have a valid point... Maybe I don’t need a branding iron after all, lol

I have used a micron or ultra fine point sharpie for a while. On turnings that are 10-15 years old with little handling you can still read it.
Many times it has worn off, it depends on the finish.
I have shifted to using an engraver after finding that I was not getting good results with a burning pen.
Cindy's method of filling the engraving with gold or silver looks really nice. I have had mixed results with the same stuff.
Personally I find brands 'low end craft show'.
That may come off as 'elitist' but if I am going to spend money on a hand made item, a stamped ( branded ) signature diminishes the work.
A fully utility piece, yes. Anything else, not so much.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Well, you guys have saved me some money, I think... I will stick with the Dremel engraver. I guess I was doing it right after all... For years I used the pirography pen, but since Betty showed me last year how she signs hers, I bought the Dremel, its easier to just write with it like with a normal pen... Thank you to everybody that took the time to give some input, I appreciate it. Aloha

 

[Bill Boehme]

The way that I use a Dremel engraving tool is to first apply a finish such as lacquer to the bottom before engraving. Then I can just rub stain or paint or liming wax or whatever rattles your cage on the bottom. It will fill the writing and then a rag or paper towel can be used to clean up the bottom before applying another layer of finish to seal the filling material. I have an assortment of Jimmy Clewes gilding paste/grain fillers that work great for this. Other fillers that I have used include acrylic artist paint and ordinary pigment wood stain (not dye stain).

My woodburning took a major step up when I took a class from Andi Wolfe a number of years ago. Before that, I wad like a bumbling wood scorching arsonist using a cheap lousy pen that looked like a soldering iron. The secret is good equipment, very low heat (if you see smoke then the heat is set too high), very light touch, a proper writing tip, hold the pen perpendicular to the wood, and practice ... and practice and practice and practice............

I have an electric branding iron from my flat woodworking days. It's hard enough to get a decent brand on a perfectly flat surface. I can't imagine trying to use it on anything that isn't flat. Besides, would Rubens or Degas have use a rubber stamp to sign their paintings?

 

[John Torchick]

Besides, would Rubens or Degas have use a rubber stamp to sign their paintings?

Sharpie or ballpoint pen.

 

[john lucas]

If you use a permanent marker make sure it's archival and also won't rub off what ever is your final finish. I have found some that can simply be smeared off if rubbed. Sharpie's are the worst. I would have to look to tell you which pens I'm using.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Saw a video on FB and cannot find again but this video is similar just need to make from 1/2 to 3/4 inch rod.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vEyTCOIcMIQ&t=129s

 

[Tom Gall]

I just sign KEA Maui and the name of the wood

Just something to think about here .......decades from now when one of your pieces is in a museum collection (or maybe even next month on someone's table) ...... do you think they will know or remember who KEA is? I know you have a rather long name to write, compared to some, but if you are proud of your work why wouldn't you want to sign your name?......rather than having someone try to guess who KEA is.
I had a woodturner friend, now deceased, who had an extensive collection that took decades to acquire. As the years went by he had a difficult time knowing the makers that only used their initials or some cutesy design. Of course, getting older probably didn't help either!

 

[john lucas]

I have a Dremel Pantograph and have thought about making my own. It's quite accurate as long as you make your full size pattern accurately. I made all of the coins in my 30 pieces of silver piece using this tool.

 

[Doug Rasmussen]

Hexacon is the manufacturer of electric branding irons I used.

http://www.hexaconelectric.com/CATALOG/ProductSummaries/tabid/89/Default.aspx

A local sign company machined the brass head with a logo. The head screwed into the Hexacon iron. One of my Hexacon's had a shank for use in the drill press.chuck to assure even, perpendicular contact on flat work.

As to branding turnings.......IMO low cost touristy type work should be branded so it can be traced back to the turner for more sales One off, expensive pieces call for a more hand done marking. giving it less of a production look.

Whatever you do, don't buy one of those tacky looking irons that used to be advertised in Fine Woodworking mag

 

[Pete Blair]

I sign and put my brand on all my art with using a Pyro pen. But I also turn some craft items for sale a few times a year and wanted to associate them with my other work. So on the 'less' expensive things I use a brand attached to an old Soldering tool that works great. My 'brand' is not my name though as some but it is a cross with three loops one forms a P and the other a B.

 

[Dean Center]

Here is what I do although these are just samples to show the technique. The top one is the dremel engraver. The bottom one is a woodburner. The trick I found with the wood burner is to first of all get a really good burning power supply. The cheap ones don't control the heat accurately enough. The second tip is to use low heat and light pressure. Both techniques require practice to get them looking good.

John,

Your photos are an excellent example of how the wood impacts the result from burning. I find it's nearly impossible to get a good result on ash.

Unlike all you artists, the value of my work would probably go down with a legible signature.

 

[Leo Van Der Loo]

I build a pyrography unit some 20 years ago, using an old Radar gun transformer, and use a commercial pen available hooked up to it.

Not always easy to get a nice and smooth writing, but going slow and being careful, the outcome is something that adds to the pieces, and I do get favourable comments on it.

People do like to know what wood it is made from, and my name and date it was finished goes with it.

The pen can write on convex flat and concave surfaces, rather than a nice flat spot all times.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Wood species that have a strong difference in hardness between earlywood and latewood (oak, ash) present the greatest challenge when trying to write using pyrography.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Just something to think about here .......decades from now when one of your pieces is in a museum collection (or maybe even next month on someone's table) ...... do you think they will know or remember who KEA is? I know you have a rather long name to write, compared to some, but if you are proud of your work why wouldn't you want to sign your name?......rather than having someone try to guess who KEA is.
I had a woodturner friend, now deceased, who had an extensive collection that took decades to acquire. As the years went by he had a difficult time knowing the makers that only used their initials or some cutesy design. Of course, getting older probably didn't help either!

You have asked a very valid question... When I started turning, my wife actually had a small area in my, well, our, shop. We had a store in Paia, the north shore of Maui, and she was making small things with my Koa leftovers. She was making little turtle magnets, the island of Maui, sharks, and a bunch more of other things... She started signing her work KEA. Katie and Emiliano Achaval. Her pyrography calligraphy was way nicer than mine, so she started signing my work for me. Since it was a group, a couple, effort, I didn't mind her signing like that... And once I took over signing, its much easier to sign KEA Maui than Emiliano Achaval... I do my own web site, my woodturning, my fishing and I also run the club's web site. I have been building websites for a long time... I also use Google adwords. If you type Kea woodturning, or a a lot of other several keywords combinations, my web site pops up... I am where i am today thanks to the support of a very understanding wife, she calls my lathe my second wife, haha.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I just ordered from Cindy Drozda's web site the gold stick pen she uses to fill her signature. I believe this will enhance my signature. For now I will keep using the Dremel engraver and I will fill it with gold... So many great and useful answers and tips. Thank you to everyone that took their time to answer.