Choosing tailstock centers...

[Jamie Straw]

I received a new, large 60-degree tailstock live center today, along with a "cup center converter" -- the live center is huge compared to the one I've been using. When the cup center converter is added, it's like a Big Brother version of my old one. Other than using it with the new buffing system, what size projects demand the large center? And, I'm assuming the converter is mainly to keep the point from going to far into something I don't want pierced (soft or easily-split wood, right?). If I want to avoid even a tiny dent, what's the best pad to use...I've seen small squares of plywood used, I assume these are best for stock that's flat on the end? I made a pad that had a concave surface to use on spindle stock that had convex (bark side) end.

Pictures below.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The center point can be removed from all the live centers that I know about. You can always make a wooden cup to go between the live center and the object being turned as long as it holds solidly and doesn't slip around.

 

[Michael Mendelsohn]

I use the 60 degree center when I have a piece with a hole in the end. One example is a tool handle. I chuck the block and drill the hole in the end then replace the drill with the 60 degree center. As long as I don't crank it down to the point of splitting the wood, this method stabilizes the end of the turning. This works for pieces with holes nearly the size of the center such as a pepper mill (1 1/8" hole)

When I don't have a hole I use a conventional cup center. The converter you have serves the same purpose by preventing the point from penetrating too far and by cutting into the block with the ring to stabilize it.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I received a new, large 60-degree tailstock live center today, along with a "cup center converter" -- the live center is huge compared to the one I've been using. When the cup center converter is added, it's like a Big Brother version of my old one. Other than using it with the new buffing system, what size projects demand the large center? And, I'm assuming the converter is mainly to keep the point from going to far into something I don't want pierced (soft or easily-split wood, right?). If I want to avoid even a tiny dent, what's the best pad to use...I've seen small squares of plywood used, I assume these are best for stock that's flat on the end? I made a pad that had a concave surface to use on spindle stock that had convex (bark side) end.

Pictures below.

View attachment 8755View attachment 8754

I think that I previously overlooked a couple of your questions about the new live center. The old one is a typical el cheapo that comes with many lathes. From my experience, the bearings aren't the best and have a short lifespan if you load them with a heavy piece by cranking down on the tailstock.

The origin of cup centers comes from the time before there were live centers. I'm not certain about the etiology of the terms "live" and "dead" centers, but I believe that before live centers became common, what we now call dead centers were just referred to as cup centers. The purpose of the cups was to hold lubricant (typically paraffin wax) so that the wood didn't burn. BTW, dead centers haven't actually died -- they're still around and now exist as the undead "safe" drive centers. If you feel like going retro, you could always put an undead safe center into the tailstock (making it once again a dead center) and putting a bit of candle wax in the cup. Sounds a bit morbid.

Even though the cup on a live center doesn't hold lubricant, it remains because of its usefulness in woodturning. Point centers have a problem of moving around in wood that has a difference between the grain hardness of early and late wood. Cups, on the other hand, can be moved in small increments without walking back to the original position. The point is useful as a precise reference, but the cup provides the position holding function. Another purpose of the cup is to help prevent splitting small diameter stock.

If you don't want a mark on the end of a spindle then you start with a piece of wood that is longer than the final product and part it off with a skew or spindle gouge. It's OK to use sandpaper. It's my favorite turning tool.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Off to a good start...

[snip]

The origin of cup centers comes from the time before there were live centers. I'm not certain about the etiology of the terms "live" and "dead" centers, but I believe that before live centers became common, what we now call dead centers were just referred to as cup centers. The purpose of the cups was to hold lubricant (typically paraffin wax) so that the wood didn't burn. BTW, dead centers haven't actually died -- they're still around and now exist as the undead "safe" drive centers. If you feel like going retro, you could always put an undead safe center into the tailstock (making it once again a dead center) and putting a bit of candle wax in the cup. Sounds a bit morbid.

Thanks, Bill! I highlighted this part of your post, since it gave me a good laugh while sipping my first cup of coffee this morning.

 

[john lucas]

I use cup centers most of the time. I use the large 60 degree centers for large spindles. Small spindles can be split using the cone centers because they make good wedges. If you have a cone center and need to keep it from penetrating too far into the wood simply put a small washer over the tip or even drill a hole in a penny so only a small part of the tip pokes through.
My favorite live center is the Nova. It comes with several very handy additional tips and since the replacement tips are very short #2 Morse tapers it's very easy to make your own center points to whatever shape you need.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/148539/Nova-Live-Center-System.aspx

 

[hockenbery]

My favorite center is the ONEWAY. It has lots of working room around the tip.
Comes with a small cone and a large cone which can be inverted.
The inverted cone can hold a square spindle centered with out marking the end,
The cup without the pin will center a 1/2" diameter piece of wood.

Since the main body part doesn't turn you can put a Pencil on top of the center to mark a circle.
With the right sized pencil or block with a hole in it you can mark the jaw sizes.

The point pops out and I have some long inserts with different tip about a 1/4" in diameter for doing small stuff
Bruce Campbell makes three wonderful inserts
http://www.artisansworkbench.com/Product info/coming soon.htm

Don Doyle of Rubber chucky makes all sorts of things that screw onto the tip.
http://www.rubberchucky.com

I make my own tips from wood. Drill a 5/8" hole in piece of wood slide it over the tip. Turn it to shape jammed against a small center.
I usually need 3 turns of the painters blue masking tape to get a tight fit..

Al

 

[Tom Beatty]

robust

Robust had a new one that they are manufacturing at SWAT that looked interesting

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have been using the Robust live center for over a year and it is my favorite although I still use my two Oneway live centers for some tasks. With the Robust live center I like the fact that I can angle a tool in closer to the cup because of the tapered shape. At first, I was concerned that there might be a problem with the tool rubbing against the housing which rotates, but I found that it runs so true and smoothly that even when a tool contacts the housing I can't feel it. The bearings don't have as much free play as the Oneway bearings so there is no droop if I hand a heavy chuck on it when reversing a piece for vacuum chucking.

BTW, I can do the same pencil trick that Al does.

 

[john lucas]

I don't own the Robust yet but have been drooling over it. However I'm still a fan of the Nova Live center. I guess I just do so many different styles of turnings and being able to swap out that tip with the diffferent tips that come with it or simply make my own out of wood to fit my special needs. I've had that thing for maybe 12 years and still no problems with the bearings, and it gets used a lot.

 

[JeffSmith]

one nice thing about the Robust live center is the reversing point - one end is a standard cone shape, the other end is flat. You can use it to provide pressure when reversing to finish the bottom and it doesn't leave a mark, and it can be adjusted easily for length. It also accepts all the accessories I've got from the OneWay center it has replaced as my primary center..

 

[Jamie Straw]

I don't own the Robust yet but have been drooling over it. However I'm still a fan of the Nova Live center. I guess I just do so many different styles of turnings and being able to swap out that tip with the diffferent tips that come with it or simply make my own out of wood to fit my special needs. I've had that thing for maybe 12 years and still no problems with the bearings, and it gets used a lot.

I've been reading about the Robust and the Nova Live Center System. Questions arise:

• What elicits drooling over the Robust (compared to your Nova)?
• 'Splain to me, please, the meaning of this part of Technatools product page: "The Stepped cone is a quick and convenient way to mount centreless rounds up to 40mm(19/16"), split turning or other work without a centre." I don't get the "centreless rounds" part. I can guess on split turning....

The Nova seems very versatile!

 

[Bill Boehme]

I've been reading about the Robust and the Nova Live Center System. Questions arise:

• What elicits drooling over the Robust (compared to your Nova)?
• 'Splain to me, please, the meaning of this part of Technatools product page: "The Stepped cone is a quick and convenient way to mount centreless rounds up to 40mm(19/16"), split turning or other work without a centre." I don't get the "centreless rounds" part. I can guess on split turning....

The Nova seems very versatile!

Suppose that you had a peppermill that has a hole drilled through it and you want to mount it between centers. Since it is hollow, I suppose that would mean that it is centerless or centreless as they spell it.