Chuck won't stay put!

[John Torchick]

I'm in the process of building a custom fly rod for my grandson. A rodbuilding site I frequent had a photo of a bamboo rod with a bamboo winding check, that is, the part that makes the transition from the cork grip to the rod blank itself. I decided to give it a try with a piece of caragana like I used for the reel insert. I had a piece that was already turned but was too short, due to being given the wrong dimensions. First, I put it on a mandrel and turned it down with some drywall screen and sandpaper. Next, I put it in the three jaw chuck. When I started to use the parting tool (nervous as it was the first time with this tool), the chuck started to drift out of the headstock. I immediately shut the lathe off as I could envision all kinds of things, none of which would be pretty. I finally put the wood back on the mandrel and carefully cut down as far as I dared with the parting tool and made the final cut with a hacksaw blade (wood was off the mandrel) and did some sanding. Any help for small future turnings would be most helpful. Somehow, I feel obligated for some pictures of the finished rod. Am I right?

 

[hockenbery]

I assume you were using a Jacobs chuck with a morse taper.

These tend to not seat well in either the head or tailstock. So they tend to come loose.

In the tailstock holding the chuck with one hand keeps it in.
In the head stock the best solution is a draw bar. If you are lucky there will be a threaded hole in the end of the taper.


I make a daw bar from all thread. Cut a little longer than the length of the lathe spindle.
Then turn a cone wheel with a hole so it passes overt the all thread rod. Glue a nut un a recess made for it.

Screw the all thread into the morse taper, put the chuck in the spindle then screw on the cone wheel.
Screwing iron draws the taper intthe spindle and t cannot loosen

Packard sells the drill chucks with the tapers drilled and tapped for draw bolts.


Hope this helps,
Al

 

[John Torchick]

Not a Jacobs chuck- a three jaw chuck. I'll go out and check the end of the MT right now. No threaded hole in the end of the MT. I have a chapter meeting next Tuesday- I'll take the grip and the wood. I'm sure that the guys can help. Bill, thanks for the reply. I'll let you know how things turned out. I'll play around with it and see what I can do in the meantime.

 

[Dwight R Rutherford]

When I sand, I run the lathe both in forward and reverse, I have had senior moments and forgotten to reset. Is there a chance you are running your lathe in reverse?

 

[john lucas]

What we refer to as a Jacobs chuck is what many refer to *** a typical drill press chuck. If it's not that then I'm wondering if it's a 3 jaw machinist chuck that screws on you spindle. If it has a morse taper I would think it is a Jacobs chuck unless it's something unusual. A photo would help.

 

[John Lawson]

There are small three-jaw chucks that mount on tapers. Grizzly sells one, http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini-Lathe-Chuck-w-Arbors/H5934 . I've seen these in person, and they are not threaded for a drawbar. So what use are they, you may ask? Well, Grizzly gets people to pay money for them, so they are useful for Grizzly. I believe, but do not know, that the arbor thread is 1/2"-20 tpi, and I have found online arbors like that threaded for a drawbar for a few dollars.

 

[Ian Thorn]

That chuck looks like its best use is for smacking fingers with those jaws be carful and use a face shield when useing it .And have some band aids handy

Cheers Ian

 

[john lucas]

Without a drawbar that would be a dangerous chuck to use. If that's what you have I can probably drill and tap it for you if you can ship or bring it to me.

 

[MichaelMouse]

You can get the drawbore taper pretty cheap. I think the "Jacobs" comes from their 33 taper, which is common for drill chucks, though threaded types are better for side-loading. Determine which you have, and twenty bucks will get you a naked taper, thirty the whole shebang. http://www.lathemaster.com/DRILL CHUCKS JACOBS TYPE1.htm

SHEESH! Three robocall interruptions and the three-year-old wants help with her "project" and the "Okino" - Pinocchio DVD. Two posts.

 

[ray hampton]

can you use the tail stock to keep the Morse chuck from spinning out ?

 

[John Torchick]

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-mini-lathe-chuck-with-mt-2-shank-4486.html
This is a three jaw chuck I got from Harbor Freight. As to drilling and tapping, my son works for a company that has a big machine shop; thanks, John. He has offered to make me some turning mandrels for grips and inserts.
Ray, I finally had to put the insert on a 5/16 mandrel with the tailstock. This has been a real learning process. Next rod, I'm going to turn the cork and wood together, finish the wood, ream to size and glue to the grip.
Not reversable.
Thanks to all for your concern and replies. The face shield, ear plugs and dust mask hang on the tool rest so I won't forget. At my age, this is easy to do.

 

[Bill Boehme]

...... So what use are they, you may ask? Well, Grizzly gets people to pay money for them, so they are useful for Grizzly....

You are a very wise man, John.

You can get the drawbore taper pretty cheap. I think the "Jacobs" comes from their 33 taper, which is common for drill chucks, ......

SHEESH! Three robocall interruptions and the three-year-old wants help with her "project" and the "Okino" - Pinocchio DVD. Two posts.

It seems like it is about 50 - 50 between J33 and J6 for the chucks that I have bought over the years and you can hardly tell the difference by looking. Unlike other tapers, Jacobs numbers and sizes seem to be purely random (although I am sure that it isn't pure).

Only three robos?

Best get your priorities straight with the three year old. And be sure to answer all question to her full satisfaction.