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Clock faces

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I have seen a number of nice clocks that have turned faces with inlays in the number positions. What is an accurate way to mark the 12 positions? I have some ideas and would like to try them. Just need some direction getting started. Thanks.
 

john lucas

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John I do it 2 ways. The old way was to simply divide a circle into the 12 points using dividers. I just walk the dividers around the circle 12 times. If it doesn't come out perfect make a slight adjustment and do it again. This method is foolproof and doesn't require any math skills.
The other way is to purchase an aftermarket index wheel. http://www.ironfirellc.com/ This can be rigged up to the lathe very easily and give you any number of accurate divisions.
To drill the holes I simply take a piece of wood about 1 1/2" square. I drill a hole through the side about an inch from one end. Drill this hole the for the size drill you need to match your dowel sizes. Turn the other end down to fit your lathe banjo. Now you just mount this in the lathe banjo, put your drill bit through the hole and align it with a scribed or drawn ring on the project. Set the index wheel and drill the holes using a hand drill.
If you drill the holes at an angle when you turn the dowels down flush you will get oval decorations from the contrasting dowels. If you drill perpendicular to the front the holes will appear round. Sometimes the drill wants to walk in the wood if I drill at too sharp of an angle. What I do in that case is anticipate the problem and as I turn the front of the clock I leave a raised portion with the outer angle perpendicular to the angle I plan to drill. This lets you drill straight in to this raised portion so the drill bit won't wonder. I have even glued scrap wood onto the face of the clock to get this raised ring to make the drilling more accurate.
If you don't understand the jig I'm talking about above I'll post a photo later tonight.
 
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Oval Holes

For oval holes, drilled at an angle, a Forstner bit is my tool of choice. It drifts much less than regular bits. I've even drilled half holes near the edge of a workpiece, with very little wandering. Drill slow, and let the bit find its way.
 

john lucas

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drill guides for clock drilling

Here are my drill guides. I make them as needed. I drill different size holes in them when I need different drills. It's surprising how long these things hold up. I've drilled a lot of holes over the years in the Oak one and it's still good. What wears out is the part that goes into the banjo. I guess I could use a 1" OD pipe as the base and make the wood to go into it.
I know they make guide bushing that will go in the drill holes but I've never had a problem with these things wallowing out.
I use both regular twist drills, brad point drills and Forestner drills. It depends on the task. If you use Forestner drills you have to make the hole the size of the shank, obviously.
I know Oneway makes a really nice system but this costs me virtually nothing.
 

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Any reason for not using a drill press? Indexing could be set up just as easily on the table, the table can be tilted precisely, and with a Forstner bit or brad point particularly, the drill wanders less.
 

john lucas

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You could but you've already got it on the lathe and everything is lined up. If you use the drill press with tilted table you've got align the angle. The figure out how to clamp it so it won't slide off and you'll have to do that for each hole. With my jig it's a 30 second setup and you drill the holes.
 
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Maybe I am too much of an engineer, but I think I would just find the center point, draw a line from edge to edge through the center, and then just use a protractor radiating from the center point. A line every 30-degrees.

I'm pretty sure it would work.

A 30-60-90 triangle could also be used.
 
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Chris, that is a good idea. I have the triangle. I'll play around with it. Long time from plane geometry. Turning the circumference on the lathe would have the center marked from the tailstock spur.
My son is an ME. Lot smarter than his ol' man (doesn't take a lot of effort, either).
John Lucas- He is from TTU, Class of 2004.
 
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