Cole jaws and really small items

[Jamie Straw]

I cheated and bought the Oneway Jumbo-Jaws instead of making my own Cole jaws. One surprising feature, according to the instructions, is the ability to mount the rubber bumpers directly to the base jaws in order to grip pieces as small as 1/2". Just for giggles, I tried it tonight with a short tool handle I was making, which needed the end finished off. No luck, though, getting it to center so that it was running smoothly -- the flat end of the handle had nothing to rest against to make the handle parallel to the lathe/chuck axis. Has anyone used the rubber grips in this fashion? Tips for success? [Edit/Note: the bumpers fit nicely in a taper at the tool end of the handle]

Another PS: Yes, I know about collets. Not on the agenda right now, but later.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I cheated and bought the Oneway Jumbo-Jaws instead of making my own Cole jaws. One surprising feature, according to the instructions, is the ability to mount the rubber bumpers directly to the base jaws in order to grip pieces as small as 1/2". Just for giggles, I tried it tonight with a short tool handle I was making, which needed the end finished off. No luck, though, getting it to center so that it was running smoothly -- the flat end of the handle had nothing to rest against to make the handle parallel to the lathe/chuck axis. Has anyone used the rubber grips in this fashion? Tips for success? [Edit/Note: the bumpers fit nicely in a taper at the tool end of the handle]

Another PS: Yes, I know about collets. Not on the agenda right now, but later.

The only good things I did with Cole jaws was to get the long pins from Penn State. Still not perfect but if it slips you will have longer to compensate (panic and run). The short pins work as long as you can support with tailstock or for sanding.
As for your idea for small stock I think between centers and a soft touch (a sleeve that goes over the tailstock spur) may be the best solution with off lathe hand sanding.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Turning, not finishing. ..

The only good things I did with Cole jaws was to get the long pins from Penn State. Still not perfect but if it slips you will have longer to compensate (panic and run). The short pins work as long as you can support with tailstock or for sanding.
As for your idea for small stock I think between centers and a soft touch (a sleeve that goes over the tailstock spur) may be the best solution with off lathe hand sanding.

Oops, I must not have been clear. I was turning, not sanding. Just lightly cleaning up the end. Tried it as an experiment. Thanks for tip about tall pins, though with the 2 bowls so far, everything has been secure. Oneway has instructions for doubling up the short pins. Might be less expensive to buy the long pins.

 

[Richard Coers]

Fairly certain there has never been any intent for those to be used for spindle turning. It's made for the bottom of bowls where you don't have the long cantilever of that handle.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Fairly certain there has never been any intent for those to be used for spindle turning. It's made for the bottom of bowls where you don't have the long cantilever of that handle.

Yeah, probably. (Just to be clear, in case a super-newbie runs across this thread -- the rim of the bowl goes in the Cole jaws -- in order to finish off the bottoms of bowls).

 

[odie]

I don't know if this will help anyone reading this thread, but occasionally I have need to secure a small bowl opening that is too small for the first set of holes in the Oneway jumbo jaws. I've made a homemade jig that attaches to the tower jaws, which expands into smaller openings. The upright dowels have a rubber face to be a non-marring secure grip.

I don't need this very often, but when I do, it's very handy to have.

Note: The tower jaws are more suitable for holding really small pieces, and a collet chuck is also very useful for this application.

ko

 

[Grant Wilkinson]

Jamie: If the tailstock end of the handle has a center divot, maybe you could loosely fit the headstock end into your jaws, bring the live center in your tailstock up to hold the handle parallel to the ways, then tighten the jaws. From your description, you won't have the tailstock in place to finish your handle, but at least it can serve to get the piece properly held.

 

[Jamie Straw]

I don't know if this will help anyone reading this thread, but occasionally I have need to secure a small bowl opening that is too small for the first set of holes in the Oneway jumbo jaws. I've made a homemade jig that attaches to the tower jaws, which expands into smaller openings. The upright dowels have a rubber face to be a non-marring secure grip.

I don't need this very often, but when I do, it's very handy to have.

Note: The tower jaws are more suitable for holding really small pieces, and a collet chuck is also very useful for this application.

ko

That's pretty cool, Odie, the spigot jaws really beef things up. Is that the Oneway Talon? Have you ever tried just mounting the rubber bumpers directly to the base jaws? Have to put a washer under the bumpers so the screw doesn't bottom out.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie: If the tailstock end of the handle has a center divot, maybe you could loosely fit the headstock end into your jaws, bring the live center in your tailstock up to hold the handle parallel to the ways, then tighten the jaws. From your description, you won't have the tailstock in place to finish your handle, but at least it can serve to get the piece properly held.

Yeah, I tried that. I suspect that my eyes don't see "parallel" very well when it's a shaped object. No big loss, I was just experimenting.

 

[odie]

That's pretty cool, Odie, the spigot jaws really beef things up. Is that the Oneway Talon? Have you ever tried just mounting the rubber bumpers directly to the base jaws? Have to put a washer under the bumpers so the screw doesn't bottom out.

No, haven't tried it.....yet! I saw that in your other post, and wasn't aware it could be done that way. I'll be sure to remember this the next time something comes up that putting the Oneway rubber bumpers directly onto the chuck slides might work. I meant to say something about that, but forgot about it......I think that's something I'll eventually use, thanks.

No, it's a Stronghold.

ko