Dave Schweitzer's Skew Chisel video

[Jamie Straw]

About 4 years ago, I spent a couple of hours at Dave Schweitzer's shop -- went to buy a bowl gouge, and he guided me through some practice on the big lathe he has there. Just now, I went to check out his skew chisels and found his video on using a skew. Awesome.
http://www.d-waytools.com/tools-skews.html

 

[john lucas]

Good video I have several videos on the skew. The latest one is in a an Article by Keith Thomkins on skew cuts. There is a QR code you can scan and get to my video. Or you can go here. https://vimeo.com/120186428
If you go to youtube and type in john60lucas/skew you can find my videos. Here is one of them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA91yJ9KhKU My video on skew varieties is interesting. You mentioned the dreaded oval skew. It is my favorite skew. It's mostly because that's what I learned on and still feel very comfortable with. However after playing with a lot of skews I find they all work. It's the one you practice with the most that you will be the best with. If your starting from scratch and don't own a skew I would recommend Dave's skew or Alan Lacers. Takes a little more practice to get the curved tip correct but that shape is very usedful, especially for the roughing cut that Dave showed in the video.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Video time coming up....

Good video I have several videos on the skew. The latest one is in a an Article by Keith Thomkins on skew cuts. There is a QR code you can scan and get to my video. Or you can go here. https://vimeo.com/120186428
If you go to youtube and type in john60lucas/skew you can find my videos. Here is one of them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA91yJ9KhKU My video on skew varieties is interesting. You mentioned the dreaded oval skew. It is my favorite skew. It's mostly because that's what I learned on and still feel very comfortable with. However after playing with a lot of skews I find they all work. It's the one you practice with the most that you will be the best with. If your starting from scratch and don't own a skew I would recommend Dave's skew or Alan Lacers. Takes a little more practice to get the curved tip correct but that shape is very usedful, especially for the roughing cut that Dave showed in the video.

Hi, John, I'm a subscriber on YouTube and have plan to "binge-watch" this weekend! Sharpening is still the challenge, as the 3 skews I have are far from correctly shaped and sharpened, but they're getting better (and shorter -- thank heavens they're cheapos). Thanks for putting up some many videos, I know it's lots of work (one of my para-professions in the horse world).

 

[robo hippy]

Here is another Skew video by Allen Batty. He is one of the best. The skew and I don't get along too well...... I am a bowl turner though. All of John's clips are pretty good too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfeLAHQSbqk

robo hippy

 

[Douglas Ladendorf]

Stewart Batty has hours of video on Vimeo that are well worth watching. Excellent production values and of course his turning is impeccable. Search Vimeo for SB Tools. It was interesting at the symposium he showed how many cuts could be done faster with a gouge than a skew.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Stewart Batty has hours of video on Vimeo that are well worth watching. Excellent production values and of course his turning is impeccable. Search Vimeo for SB Tools. It was interesting at the symposium he showed how many cuts could be done faster with a gouge than a skew.

Right! just search for Stewart Batty tools and it will give you the link to Vimeo. I thing there are 34 videos and most are 7 to 10 minutes. He is very good on the fundamentals and explanation of what each tool does and how to use it and not to use it.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Watched the video you posted on, Jamie.

I just came out of the shop, having turned eighty two beads using a skew. Turned a spindle full, then used the peeling cut and then the finishing cut until I had a small dowel.

Gotta say that it opened my eyes to how nice a tool the skew is.

Also found that it's easy to do left handed about the same quality, which admittedly isn't great but better than I expected.

I think I prefer rounding stick with the skew. Seems easier to get a nice finish cut.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Wow! 82?!?

Watched the video you posted on, Jamie.

I just came out of the shop, having turned eighty two beads using a skew. Turned a spindle full, then used the peeling cut and then the finishing cut until I had a small dowel.

Gotta say that it opened my eyes to how nice a tool the skew is.

Also found that it's easy to do left handed about the same quality, which admittedly isn't great but better than I expected.

I think I prefer rounding stick with the skew. Seems easier to get a nice finish cut.

I'm real close to pulling the trigger on Dave's 3/4" skew -- the bowl gouge I bought from him is the cat's meow, and already having a handle makes the skew fit my budget. ;-) I especially agree with your comment "Gotta say that it opened my eyes to how nice a tool the skew is." I am envious, though, that you've perfected skew sharpening to the point that you can turn 82 beads!

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I'm real close to pulling the trigger on Dave's 3/4" skew -- the bowl gouge I bought from him is the cat's meow, and already having a handle makes the skew fit my budget. ;-) I especially agree with your comment "Gotta say that it opened my eyes to how nice a tool the skew is." I am envious, though, that you've perfected skew sharpening to the point that you can turn 82 beads!

Oh no, Jamie, they're not good beads. But they meet the most basic criteria

I had to change my grinder setup and make a new Ellsworth attachment for the vari grind. But it was worth it for sure. I'm going to turn beads every day with the skew, and also work on the other cuts. I'm using a 3/4" that came with my first set from Penn State. Cheap tool but works fine and good for sharpening practice to boot.

And if you saw my skew. Perfect it ain't

 

[Jamie Straw]

Yep, good for practice sharpening!

I'm using a 3/4" that came with my first set from Penn State. Cheap tool but works fine and good for sharpening practice to boot.

Amen to that! All but 4 of my 20-some-odd tools are "cheapies" and it's comforting to know I can practice sharpening without losing much. Just the other day, I got a Hurricane Tools 1" skew for $25 specifically to practice sharpening, and to have a bigger, heavier skew than my other ones. One drawback on some of the cheapies is how short the actual tool part is -- after a few sharpenings, the handle starts interfering with sharpening (using a Wolverine set-up). I practiced coves and V's today.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Flat or hollow ground?

So, to continue this thread:

I've been practicing all sorts of cuts with the skew (and watched Allen Batty and John Lucas' videos as well as Dave's).

I find that I have lots of catches and this is especially so when trying to turn beads and when beginning a cut at the end of a spindle. Well duh, just poking a sharp tool into what is essentially the corner of a spindle blank produces some spectacular catches

A couple of questions that come to my mind, and I'd certainly welcome any other insights that would help.

So how does one present a skew to begin a peeling cut that is essentially running parallel to the axis of the turning? For me, I decided this was a great opportunity to practice left-handed turning but would like to develop a much lighter and more sure touch.

Also, when trying to make a V-cut, the tool wants to skate across the surface. It doesn't matter which point I"m using.

And finally, should a flat grind the skew? It's coming off of an 8" CBN wheel with a bit of a hollow grind, which I hone. But should it be a flat grind for better control or is it the user here and not the grind?

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

So, to continue this thread:

I've been practicing all sorts of cuts with the skew (and watched Allen Batty and John Lucas' videos as well as Dave's).

I find that I have lots of catches and this is especially so when trying to turn beads and when beginning a cut at the end of a spindle. Well duh, just poking a sharp tool into what is essentially the corner of a spindle blank produces some spectacular catches

A couple of questions that come to my mind, and I'd certainly welcome any other insights that would help.

So how does one present a skew to begin a peeling cut that is essentially running parallel to the axis of the turning? For me, I decided this was a great opportunity to practice left-handed turning but would like to develop a much lighter and more sure touch.

Also, when trying to make a V-cut, the tool wants to skate across the surface. It doesn't matter which point I"m using.

And finally, should a flat grind the skew? It's coming off of an 8" CBN wheel with a bit of a hollow grind, which I hone. But should it be a flat grind for better control or is it the user here and not the grind?

Mark, I use the skew when needed, although not my preferred tool for many things. There was an article in American Woodturner a couple of months ago and he delineated the difference in 3 grinds for the skew and concluded that a flat grind was best and most controllable. I had about the first of the year changed my grind due to statements Captn Eddie had made on the flat grind. The new CBN wheels with the side grind should be great for this . Unfortunately I bought mine just 2 weeks before I got Ken's newsletter with the new ones.
I have not used the new grind much as I have been doing mostly bowls. The little I have it now seems to be more controllable.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Mark, I use the skew when needed, although not my preferred tool for many things. There was an article in American Woodturner a couple of months ago and he delineated the difference in 3 grinds for the skew and concluded that a flat grind was best and most controllable. I had about the first of the year changed my grind due to statements Captn Eddie had made on the flat grind. The new CBN wheels with the side grind should be great for this . Unfortunately I bought mine just 2 weeks before I got Ken's newsletter with the new ones.
I have not used the new grind much as I have been doing mostly bowls. The little I have it now seems to be more controllable.

Thanks Gerald. I've been on the fence and thinking seriously about trying a flat grind with one of the skews. I have that ginormous Alan Lacer skew/sword with the huge hollow grind and finally learned how to sharpen that thing freehand, so it'll be a relief to just put a flat grind on something.

The skew is for sure not a "go to" tool for me but I intend to keep at it until I can pick it up with confidence in using it.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Thanks Gerald. I've been on the fence and thinking seriously about trying a flat grind with one of the skews. I have that ginormous Alan Lacer skew/sword with the huge hollow grind and finally learned how to sharpen that thing freehand, so it'll be a relief to just put a flat grind on something.

The skew is for sure not a "go to" tool for me but I intend to keep at it until I can pick it up with confidence in using it.

Check out Jake Gevorgian's video on sharpening and turning with the Lacer skew: (I’m not sure why he puts such an alarming disclaimer at the beginning as I don’t see this as particularly dangerous.)
https://youtu.be/MimUHw3sjPM

If you want to see more, check out his other skew videos; he’s one of the few people on YouTube with such fantastic skew skills, in my opinion.

 

[Douglas Ladendorf]

I've been practicing the skew a bit too and used it most of the time on two tool handles this weekend. I used it for roughing and even brought the rounded blank in to show my wife how smooth and even a finish I got on it! (Up till then that hadn't been the case...)

Mark, when I need to make an entry cut like you describe I lay the tool on the bevel and slowly ease into the cut. I also have to remind myself to bring the tool handle out wider, like 45 degrees rather than 30. If I'm all out of whack here hopefully an experienced turner will set things right!

 

[Mark Hepburn]

Owen, thanks for the video link(s). He is a bit melodramatic about the possible danger but can't be too careful, right? Especially with that particular skew. I subscribed to his videos and here's a link that others may also like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOELuHLk98E

The man is amazing with a skew. This is an 8+ minute clip that really shows how he uses the skew for literally every cut on a spindle. I notice that he has his highly polished and rounded as well.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

I've been practicing the skew a bit too and used it most of the time on two tool handles this weekend. I used it for roughing and even brought the rounded blank in to show my wife how smooth and even a finish I got on it! (Up till then that hadn't been the case...)

Mark, when I need to make an entry cut like you describe I lay the tool on the bevel and slowly ease into the cut. I also have to remind myself to bring the tool handle out wider, like 45 degrees rather than 30. If I'm all out of whack here hopefully an experienced turner will set things right!

Douglas, I'm going to give that change in entry angle a try this evening after work. You'll also appreciate that video clip I linked to I think. I have found that I really like the finish that the skew leaves on some (and I emphasize, only some) of my practice pieces. Previously my motto has been "80 grit rules!"

 

[Douglas Ladendorf]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOELuHLk98E The man is amazing with a skew. This is an 8+ minute clip that really shows how he uses the skew for literally every cut on a spindle. I notice that he has his highly polished and rounded as well.

It's the hypno-trance music that does it! He's quite skilled with the skew.

Doug

 

[Mark Hepburn]

It's the hypno-trance music that does it! He's quite skilled with the skew.

Doug

Yes, it is the music. You can learn a skew and some dance music at the same time

He's a man of few words but the video says it all.

 

[john lucas]

The type of grind you use makes no difference as far as tool handling. Give me any tool with any grind and i'll use it. Pick a grind that you can sharpen easily and stick with it. That's the one that will work for you. There isn't a grind that will instantly make the skew work better. Most people have problems when turning beads because they move the tool with what I call course movements. The skew requires very fine adjustments. As your rolling the bead you need to roll the skew, move the handle and lift the handle. If you do any one of them too much too soon you come off the bevel and it runs back on you. Try to be very smooth and controlled with your movements. The video where I show you how to turn the barrels, then balls, then beads is a great practice piece. It takes practice to learn to control the skew gently and smoothly.
The start of a V cut should be very slow and gentle. The reason is you don't have any bevel in contact with the work. So you have two choices. Start with the skew absolutely perpendicular to the work, or start the cut gently. If you place the skew into the work and it's not absolutely perpendicular it will run in the direction that it's off perpendicular. Try placing the skew on the work and tilt it to the left. It will run left. Tilt the right it will run right. Perfectly straight it just sits there. However most V cuts require you to start tilted one way or the other because you seldom want a V just straight in. For the left side of a V tilt the tool to the left at the angle you want the V. Place your thumb next to it to help keep it from skating. Start the cut very gently. Once it's started you have the bevel rubbing and it won't kick back as long as you control the cut. If you start the cut briskly or pushing too hard it will skate harder than your thumb can resist the kick back.
The same is true when using the toe of the skew to square up the end of a blank. Start gently until it's cut deep enough to have a bevel for the skew to ride on.
Sorry that was long winded. Hard to put into words how this works.

 

[Mark Hepburn]

The type of grind you use makes no difference as far as tool handling. Give me any tool with any grind and i'll use it. Pick a grind that you can sharpen easily and stick with it. That's the one that will work for you. There isn't a grind that will instantly make the skew work better. Most people have problems when turning beads because they move the tool with what I call course movements. The skew requires very fine adjustments. As your rolling the bead you need to roll the skew, move the handle and lift the handle. If you do any one of them too much too soon you come off the bevel and it runs back on you. Try to be very smooth and controlled with your movements. The video where I show you how to turn the barrels, then balls, then beads is a great practice piece. It takes practice to learn to control the skew gently and smoothly.
The start of a V cut should be very slow and gentle. The reason is you don't have any bevel in contact with the work. So you have two choices. Start with the skew absolutely perpendicular to the work, or start the cut gently. If you place the skew into the work and it's not absolutely perpendicular it will run in the direction that it's off perpendicular. Try placing the skew on the work and tilt it to the left. It will run left. Tilt the right it will run right. Perfectly straight it just sits there. However most V cuts require you to start tilted one way or the other because you seldom want a V just straight in. For the left side of a V tilt the tool to the left at the angle you want the V. Place your thumb next to it to help keep it from skating. Start the cut very gently. Once it's started you have the bevel rubbing and it won't kick back as long as you control the cut. If you start the cut briskly or pushing too hard it will skate harder than your thumb can resist the kick back.
The same is true when using the toe of the skew to square up the end of a blank. Start gently until it's cut deep enough to have a bevel for the skew to ride on.
Sorry that was long winded. Hard to put into words how this works.

Hey John, not long-winded at all. I totally get what you're saying about my movements and I'm definitely kind of ham-handed at it. Which is what I'm working on.

I have been watching your video over and over along with the one that Owen suggested and also Allen Batty. One unanticipated benefit of this Skew practice is that it's actually helping me with my other tools.

I also tried with Doug suggested which is to adjust my angle and I also downloaded a Brendan Stemp video and first thing he says is 45° angle.

I did flat grind one of my SKUs and I'm working with it and I do have to say that I cannot much tell the difference between flat and hollow ground. And, since the tool comes off the grinder hollow ground then seems that maybe I should just get used to that.

 

[john lucas]

Yea technically a hollow ground tool that has been honed has 2 small flat bevels. I don't use a skew straight off the grinder. I hone the edge using diamond hones to get a better edge. I put the hone on the 2 high points created by the concave grind of the grinder. This keeps it flat against the bevel so the hone doesn't rock. It also grinds or hones 2 small flat areas, one on the tip and one on the heel of the grind. In actual usage it functions very much like a flat bevel grind. However I have used tools with convex grinds and find very little difference in how they function. You can get just as many catches with the convex as flat or concave. In fact of the 3 I find a truely concave (meaning straight off the grinding wheel) the hardest to use. Flat of convex are definitely easier. For me I find the convex grind harder to do beads but more forgiving for planing cuts.