I've been looking at different types of hollowing systems. Thinking about purchase. To try some Hollow Form work. Anyone have some do's and don'ts. Thanks in advance!
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Deep hollowing tools
- Thread starter Kefferpl
- Start date
Do get a sorby multi tip. Even if you end up with a variety of other tools as your main system, it's real handy for work near the neck of hollow pieces. Do consider a capture/laser system. They are not that hard to make if you have some basic metal working skills and are pretty safe and reliable. Do learn to back cut with a spindle gouge as a hollowing technique. It really speeds things up for removing lots of initial material. Do make an extension for spade drill bits using a piece of hollow steel so that you can pre-drill a starter hole to the depth you want to end at.
Don't turn without a face mask (not goggles) or respirator (not dust mask). Broken noses, black eyes, and persistant bronchitis are not fun conditions. Don't ever stop turning.
Dietrich
Don't turn without a face mask (not goggles) or respirator (not dust mask). Broken noses, black eyes, and persistant bronchitis are not fun conditions. Don't ever stop turning.
Dietrich
I agree with Dietrich's post, especially the second paragraph regarding safety equipment.
I'm using Lyle Jamieson's captured/laser system with a shop built secondary rest per his instructions. A small refinement I've added is I epoxied a 1/4" steel rod to the both the base and retainer bar where the D handle slides. This way the D handle is riding on a waxed point surface rather than a wooden flat surface - less friction.
If you opt for the Jamieson system, it now comes with his excellent video "Hollow Forms the Easy Way." Even if you choose another system it's worth watching.
Whit
I'm using Lyle Jamieson's captured/laser system with a shop built secondary rest per his instructions. A small refinement I've added is I epoxied a 1/4" steel rod to the both the base and retainer bar where the D handle slides. This way the D handle is riding on a waxed point surface rather than a wooden flat surface - less friction.
If you opt for the Jamieson system, it now comes with his excellent video "Hollow Forms the Easy Way." Even if you choose another system it's worth watching.
Whit
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Hollowing opens up a vast new range of design opportunnities.
I sugget that you get some hands on help from a club member or take class.
or at least get up close and watch someone demo.
Start with small pieces and hollow something like an open bowl so you can see how the tools work. In most hollow turning you can not see the tool so it helps to be able to visualize what's happening.
make even wall thicknesses. Measure a lot cut a little.
When using scraper cutters never let the bevel touch the wood. If the bevel touches the wood will drive onto the cutter and something bad will happen. Pointing the cutter slightly downward usually leaves a gap between the bevel and the wood.
I also recommend the basic Jamieson system. It is good way to start and later on you can add most any hollowing bar that have a ¾ shank. For example the Trent Bosch and Stewart system bars fit the Jamieson handle
happy turning,
Al
I sugget that you get some hands on help from a club member or take class.
or at least get up close and watch someone demo.
Start with small pieces and hollow something like an open bowl so you can see how the tools work. In most hollow turning you can not see the tool so it helps to be able to visualize what's happening.
make even wall thicknesses. Measure a lot cut a little.
When using scraper cutters never let the bevel touch the wood. If the bevel touches the wood will drive onto the cutter and something bad will happen. Pointing the cutter slightly downward usually leaves a gap between the bevel and the wood.
I also recommend the basic Jamieson system. It is good way to start and later on you can add most any hollowing bar that have a ¾ shank. For example the Trent Bosch and Stewart system bars fit the Jamieson handle
happy turning,
Al
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Quick recipe for a capture rig. Get some 3/4 inch bar stock, about 6 feet long. Make a right angle bend at 3 feet, another 10 inches further, another 16 inches, and the end should match up with the original bar, looking like a giant "b". Attach where they meet. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the long end and drill a smaller hole perpendicular and into this. Tap that for a set screw and grind the edges off the end. take a piece of 1/4 inch HSS round stock and grind a flat scraper tip on the end. Insert this into the hole and set it with the set screw. (you can also grind the tip half round and make a holder like the Sorby multitool) You now have a basic capture rig. Use a couple of pieces of angle iron welded horizontal and parallel, and 7/8 apart to a frame and with a base post to mount in a second banjo for the capture part of the rig.
From there, you can add pipe-fitting attachments to hold a laser, a threaded end for bent tips or extensions, shaped tips, etc.
Total cost, about 30-50$ and 2-4 hours work with a vise, grinder, and welder. Not as nice as the Jamison but a dang sight cheaper if you're poor like me.
Good luck,
dietrich
From there, you can add pipe-fitting attachments to hold a laser, a threaded end for bent tips or extensions, shaped tips, etc.
Total cost, about 30-50$ and 2-4 hours work with a vise, grinder, and welder. Not as nice as the Jamison but a dang sight cheaper if you're poor like me.
Good luck,
dietrich
I like my Stewart tools and Ellsworth tools, but it is difficult to vote against laser guided tools such as Lyle Jamieson makes.
Take a real good look at the videos by John Jordan and David Ellsworth. They both stress the fact that the important part of a hollow form is the outside shape. That is the only thing that anyone sees. Obtaining a relatively thin and consistent wall thickness is important too, but getting the wood out of the inside is the chore. Get that done as quickly and easily as possible.
Take a real good look at the videos by John Jordan and David Ellsworth. They both stress the fact that the important part of a hollow form is the outside shape. That is the only thing that anyone sees. Obtaining a relatively thin and consistent wall thickness is important too, but getting the wood out of the inside is the chore. Get that done as quickly and easily as possible.