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"Ebonized" mahogany peppermill

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Feb 17, 2008
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Attached is a picture of a black 18 inch peppermill I did for Christmas using a dye/gel stain “ebonizing“ technique. The wood is mahogany. I am pleased at how it turned out and thought I would report on the finish method for those who might be looking for a black finish.
My daughter asked for a peppermill for Christmas and I too quickly said yes. She then explained she would like an 18 inch mill and I groaned a little in anticipation of the drill bit extension I would need. Then she went on to specify a black finish and I realized I was in uncharted territory for me. The only wood I had on hand meeting the dimensions were walnut and mahogany so I began researching ebonizing methods. To make a long story short I ended up filling the mahogany with Behlen Water based grain filler in Mahogany color. Next I applied two coats of black TransTint dye diluted in alcohol. I followed this with two applications of General Finishes Java Gel Stain. The final finish was General Finishes Arm R Seal oil & urethane top coat. The black has a bit of a warm deep purple cast but yet is a pleasing color.
Although I drew up my own design on autosketch, it is definitely a Sokolowski style mill influenced by Ted Sokolowski’s DVD entitled “Making a Peppermillâ€. I highly recommend it. Thanks Ted.
 

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Joined
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CarmelHighlands, California
I hear the dread of drilling such a long hole and suggest the following to those it hasn't occured to. Drill the hole first and then turn the peppermill, lamp or what ever tall drilled object one is turning. The ends of the hole can be held in a number of improvised ways.

Malcolm Smith.
 
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Dec 18, 2007
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Location
Kingwood, TX
Looks nice but a larger picture would be appreciated - hard to see in such a small picture. Thanks for posting about how you finished it.
 
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Feb 17, 2008
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Photo retry

Sorry about the small picture. I'll try again with this post. I am finding that photographing a round black object with a gloss finish is a real challenge . I've been asked by my daughter to make a Salt Mill to match. This time she wants a red finish. Anyone have any ideas on a good technique for red? As someone who has always preferred natural wood finishes , this project has me out in left field.
 

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Joined
Apr 11, 2007
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Location
Northwest Arkansas
Peppermaill

Why not turn the other out of Bloodwood, Charapilla, or Redheart and finish it clear?:)
 
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Feb 17, 2008
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Red Peppermill

Thanks for the suggestions Kurt. Thats probably the best approach to take. I was actually contemplating using a red Oxford water based spray lacquer. I've done a hall table finished that way but man was it a tedious process. I've used some bloodwood in a segmented bowl project before and so am familiar with it but not the other two species you mentioned. After a brief research on the internet it appears that bloodwood may hold its red color longer than the other two. I located some 3" bloodwood for sale online at exoticwoodgroup.com. and so may go that way. Needless to say, finding 3" stock in Northeast Oklahoma is tough.
 
Joined
Apr 11, 2007
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Location
Northwest Arkansas
Peppermill

Are you a member of NEOWTA? If so, I am scheduled to do the demo next month. Maybe I can introduce myself!
Kurt
 
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Feb 17, 2008
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Neowta

I'm not a member of NEOWTA but a couple of member friends have suggested I join so maybe I will. I'll try to catch your demo.
Thanks again.
 
Joined
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CarmelHighlands, California
Thanks for the suggestions Kurt. Thats probably the best approach to take. I was actually contemplating using a red Oxford water based spray lacquer. I've done a hall table finished that way but man was it a tedious process. I've used some bloodwood in a segmented bowl project before and so am familiar with it but not the other two species you mentioned. After a brief research on the internet it appears that bloodwood may hold its red color longer than the other two. I located some 3" bloodwood for sale online at exoticwoodgroup.com. and so may go that way. Needless to say, finding 3" stock in Northeast Oklahoma is tough.

Bloodwood sounds like a good choice. The color lasts unlike other red woods and even unfinished, it's a nice looking wood. Does it affect the taste of the pepper? I don't know the answer. I ask as one might finish the outside and leave the inside unfinished.

Malcolm Smith.
 
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Feb 17, 2008
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Inside finish for salt & peppermills

What to do about the inside of peppermills has always been a question in my mind. I have left them unfinished as it would seem that peppercorns are unlikely to interact with the wood. However, I note from Ted Sokolowski’s DVD, “Making a Peppermill†that he seals the inside with shellac. In this case, my plan is to use the bloodwood for matching salt mills. The salt is surely corrosive to some metals, but how it might interact with various woods is an unknown for me.
 
Joined
Jul 28, 2008
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NH
Peppermills

In regards to salt reacting with grinding mechanisms: my son requested matching pepper and salt mills, as he prefers ground sea salt with his pepper. I was advised that the salt would quickly rust the grinding mechanisms of metal, with the strap across the bottom. I did some poking around and found the "crush grind" mechanism, which are now sold at Woodcraft, Beall, etc. They are made of nylon with ceramic grinding inserts. The drive rod doesn't extend through the top, letting your design flow a little more, and they have a "click" adjustment on the bottom, out of sight. I do not follow the directions for installing them, it's tedious and annoying. I do a little razor-knife work to it and tap it into the bored hole, never had one move yet. The rod is also easily cut to any length.
 
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