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Extension handles for your Mini-Midi lathe

Joined
Aug 9, 2006
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Location
Apopka, FL
Website
www.docwks.com
Recently I finished a woodturning class with Trent Bosch at Al Hockenbery’s shop in Lakeland, Fl. I transported my Jet 1220 lathe and used it during the class. Normally this lathe is my demo and or pen / small parts lathe and consequently does not see a lot of use. During the course of the 3 days, I again found one of the small issues I have with this lathe and that is the locking handle on the tool rest and tail stock, while adequate, requires the user to really think about gripping and locking down these two important areas. My large lathe has big handles and one can get plenty of leverage without repositioning oneself. I have read the article that J. R. Beall did, wood handle and tail stock wheel, upgrade to a mini lathe and while I thought it was cool, I did not like the idea of using CA or epoxy to attach the extension handles. As I make most of my own tool handles, I decided to put my knowledge to work on this annoying feature.

I used the following supplies:
5†Stainless Steel (370) pipe schedule 40 with 3/8 wall (wall thickness is important) and ½†Inside diameter (Why this special pipe, because that’s what I had on hand)
1 ¼†(length) x 1†aluminum round stock
2 – 10-32 x ¼†set screws (uses 3/32†Allen wrench) at any big box store
6†of 5/8†I.D. Braided PVC hose – at any big box store
No. 21 drill bit or 5/32†bit can be used and a 5/32†tap

The 5†pipe after cutting was cleaned with a scotch pad while spinning on my wood lathe and the ends trued up from the hacksaw blade. The first one I did on my wood lathe the rest I took over to Danny H.‘s house and used his metal lathe. The 1†aluminum round stock was cut 1 ¼†long and a ½†tenon was turned so it will pressure fit inside the pipe. For those who care the inside of the pipe is ~.502 and the tenon I turned is ~.507. This leaves ¾â€, which I divided into thirds and brought the inside and outside edges down to meet the PVC hose on the SS pipe. ~.950â€. The first cap again was turned on my wood lathe using a crown 1/4â€parting tool, the rest were done on the metal lathe. Then I drilled and taped two holes about a 1†and 1 ½†up from one end of the SS pipe. The drill bit was a 21 or you can use a 5/32†drill bit. Next, I pressed the turned aluminum piece into the pipe (on the end away from the taped holes) using my bench vise. Heated the braided PVC hose in the oven at 225 deg. for about 20 minutes, then slid it on the pipe, trimmed up the hose and pierced the hose and inserted the setscrews.

Next I installed it. I also took it over to the Wednesday night crew at Danny’s house for evaluation and input. The cool thing is this was made for my lathe but fits most mini lathes, Jet 1014 and the Penn State lathes for sure.
 

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john lucas

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Doc It's not the handles it's the little round piece they use to lock the tailstock in place. I replace them with rectangular pieces that are larger. It then takes very little pressure in the lever to lock them in place. Someone sells them on the web but I can't remember who.
 
Joined
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Location
Apopka, FL
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www.docwks.com
John,
Not sure, what you mean? I do not like having to move around the lathe to lock down the tailstock, with this extension, I do not have that problem, and those of use with large hands, trigger fingers and or arthritis can use a bigger handle. I am currently making some of these for a senior center using PVC as the core. The metal piece under the tail stock "clamp" can be an issue, mine has not been since I made a new one. I mean all it is, is a square or rectangle piece of metal with a raised channel down the middle. You can mill it or screw two pieces of metal together and drill a hole in it. Beside, my handle is a whole lot prettier than the black handle on the lathe.
My next project is putting a 3ph motor with reverse on the 1220 now that should be fun! It will be just a small version of my 3520b when I am done.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
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Cookeville, TN
Doc I like your handle. Longer handles are always an improvement if they don't get in the way. I've just found that many people have to push really hard on the handles to lock the tailstock in place on a lot of lathes, especially the mini lathes. On these lathes they put a small round disc on the bottom to lock the tailstock in position and they just don't have enough surface area to do that effectively. A larger rectangular locking plate will do that so you don't necessarily need a longer handle.
 
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
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Location
St. Louis, MO area
Handle on tailstock wheel

It is not only the handles for locking the tool rest and tailstock on the Jet that are a PITA, the tiny stationary handle on the tailstock wheel is ridiculous! I have a Rikon with a free turning handle and it is really nice. So, I removed the handle on the Jet. I turned a wooden handle that is about twice as long and 3x's as thick as the original. I bought a 1/4 x 20 bolt, a section of 3/8" flexible copper tubing, drilled through the length of the handle slightly larger than 3/8", counter sunk the end of the handle. I then inserted the copper tubing into the wooden handle, inserted the bolt into the copper tubing and screwed the bolt into the hole on the hand wheel. Voila! A free spinning handle on the hand wheel. Works great and I am a lot happier with the Jet 1220.:D:D
 
Joined
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Location
Apopka, FL
Website
www.docwks.com
I agree with you on the tailstock wheel. I replaced mine with a old Delta wheel that has made it much easier to use. John you are right about the locking plate. I replaced mine with a square one, I made. The extra handle length helps with access and leverage. I don't like having to repostion myself during some operations during demos. I like my 1220, but when I'm home it doesn't see a lot of use. I've made these for a couple of my club members and they really like them especially those that use mini lathes to demo. We used one at the Southern States Symposium last month and got several positive comments on the handle even though we were demoing a off center chuck, figures..
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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Location
Cookeville, TN
George, Those locking T nuts from Monster tool are the cats meow. I did a jet mini improvement project about 4 years ago where I went in and changed everything that I thought would make it a better lathe. The larger locking plates for the tailstock and banjo were the first things and improved the stability and ease of locking these things tremendously.
Unfortunately my new Delta has the same silly small round locking plates. They do work pretty well but I'm going to replace them as soon as I have time.
I like to use my mini lathes for smaller projects. I love my powermatic but by the end of the day your worn out from moving the banjo and tailstock around. On the mini lathe it's a breeze. It's also faster. I can stop my mini lathe, inspect the part and start it back up and resume turning faster than my powermatic will stop.
 
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