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Finish over friction polish

Discussion in 'Woodturning Discussion Forum' started by Dean, Jan 2, 2018.

  1. Dean

    Dean

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2010
    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Waco, TX
    I recently turned a pepper mill and finished it with the ebeaut EEE and friction cream, looks great but now I'm concern that the finish will not hold up. Is there something I can put on top of this to fortify the finish? Renaissance wax or something like that? I primary like lacquer but I did not have the time or the temperature to do it. I also am looking for other options in finish on other projects.
     
  2. Grant Wilkinson

    Grant Wilkinson

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2007
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    135
    Ren wax may help a bit, but it's still just wax. If you used Beaut Shellawax over the EEE, you already have a wax finish. I can tell you that lacquer does not stick to a Shellawax finish. I tried and failed miserably.
     
  3. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    I think it would be a problem applying any kind of finish on top of wax.
     
    charlie knighton likes this.
  4. John Tisdale

    John Tisdale

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    Dallas, TX
    If the goal was to turn a pepper-mill then you're done. If the goal was to turn something that will last, that perhaps a great, great grandchild will pick up, look at the initials or name on the bottom, and ask "who was that", then you're not done. While I've never turned a pepper-mill, my guess is it has its own set of issues. One, of course, it's wood. Being hygroscopic, wood needs to be properly treated if longevity is of value.
    Depending on wood species, I can burnish as good a finish as all the Jeff Jewetts - problem is, it's short term and there is zero protection. I can get a teeny bit more longevity with a bit of wax - the operative here is "teeny".
    Next, I can finish with oil and get a great finish with considerable improvement in longevity - that can be improved with one of the many home-brews or store-boughts that combine oil / solvent / air-cure resin of some sort. These are generally "wipe-on" which meets the "git'er done fast" requirement.
    After the wipe-ons, you evolve to lacquers and ulitmately the high performance/nasty stuff.

    No doubt the person picking up your pepper-mile will see a beauty and pride of execution not experienced with a "store-bought" - if you used that magic log, perhaps the simple act of grinding pepper has been elevated to the sublime. I don't think it unreasonable that a person picking up that same pepper-mill ten or twenty-years from now shouldn't have the same experience - maybe more so.

    If our spirit goes into our work, and our work lives on, isn't that immortality?
     
    charlie knighton and hockenbery like this.
  5. Hy Tran

    Hy Tran

    Joined:
    Dec 7, 2012
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    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Friction polish is a combination of a solvent, polymerizing oil, shellac, and likely some wax. Any kind of finish (other than wax) will have trouble sticking to wax.

    Periodic wipe/wax/buff would be my suggested maintenance for this particular item.

    Edit added: For more recommendations on general finishing, I highly recommend the articles from the late Russ Fairfield, archived here:
    http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/russ3.shtml

    Best,

    Hy
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2018
    Bill Boehme likes this.
  6. Michael Nathal

    Michael Nathal

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    Jul 5, 2015
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    Location:
    Strongsville
    I am not sure of the durability of the friction polish but I do know that my sycamore travel mug has survived 6 years of wear & tear, and dozens of hand washings and still looks good. This has a wipe-on poly finish, maybe 5 coats or so. Removing wax from a piece only requires some mineral spirits, then you could wipe on. .
     
    Mark Hepburn likes this.
  7. Dean

    Dean

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2010
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    14
    Location:
    Waco, TX
    thanks fellas
     

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