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First Bowl

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Mar 25, 2010
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Hello everyone, this will be my very first attempt at turning a bowl and I would like to ask how do you get the sides to angle out? I have seen several books/magazines and videos, but the majority are a bit over my head. My only experience has been turning about 200 pens. I have a Delta midi 46-460 and about 15 various turning tools from different manufacturers. Just a few helpful suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I forgot to mention that I have four 2"x6''x6" hard maple blocks to start practicing on. Thanks.


Larry
 

Steve Worcester

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Hard maple is more difficult in the "early years" to get a clean edge. But the answer to most of these questions is to point the flute in the direction of the cut and ride the bevel. Early on, slower cut rate will serve you better.
 
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Wow!!! What an overwhelming response. I would guess I made a big mistake joining this group in hopes of finding some assistance. Over 115 views and only 1 reply leads me to think nobody wants to waste their time helping anybody. I wish I could have been born knowing everything so I wouldn't need to ask questions.
 
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Larry, I suspect the folks here don't understand your question...I know I don't. What do you mean by "get the sides to angle out"? I know it sounds like a smart-aleck answer, but once you have the blank mounted on the lathe, just cut away the parts that don't look like a bowl. Until you actually do it, it'll be hard to understand how it's done. You mention articles and videos, but if you haven't seen it already, I would recommend Bill Grumbine's Turned Bowls Made Easy DVD. It has a lot of good info for someone who's wanting to make bowls.

I also agree with Steve on the hard maple. It's not the easiest wood to learn with.
 
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Thank you for clearing that up. I wasn't sure how to phrase the question, but getting the sides of the bowl to the proper shape is what I am having trouble with. Do you start from the tailstock end or the headtock end and do you keep trimming away in one area more than others? By the way, I just ordered the video you recommended.
 
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Larry,
This will be a very general answer, but will give you an outline of the steps involved:

Mount the blank between centers, and begin turning the bottom
of the bowl on the tailstock side. Turn a tenon for chuck mounting.

Turn the blank around and mount it in a chuck. Begin turning the
inside of the bowl, again from the tailstock side. Use the bevel to
help maintain the inside parallel to the outside for consistent wall
thickness.

Reverse the blank one last time to finish turn the very bottom of
the bowl.

The video you ordered will make everything easier to understand. I would recommend that you watch the entire video before trying to turn too many bowls. Good Luck!
 
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Thank you for clearing that up. I wasn't sure how to phrase the question, but getting the sides of the bowl to the proper shape is what I am having trouble with. Do you start from the tailstock end or the headtock end and do you keep trimming away in one area more than others? By the way, I just ordered the video you recommended.

In general, I usually start where I need to remove the most wood (the bottom outside corner of the blank, usually) and work my way both directions -- towards the foot of the bowl and towards the rim) as I work my way down to the final outside shape. Once I'm getting close to the desired shape, I'll try to make long continuous cuts, usually cutting from the foot to the rim, but sometimes the other direction if the wood grain dictates. Of course this can vary from one blank to the next, but for the most part, that's how I do it. Other people will likely have different methods that work for them. I'd say the key thing is to just get in there and start cutting, and a lot of it will start to make sense. You'll find what works for you and what doesn't.

Bill's video should help clear up a lot for you. I know it did for me.
 
Last edited:
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Thank you for clearing that up. I wasn't sure how to phrase the question, but getting the sides of the bowl to the proper shape is what I am having trouble with. Do you start from the tailstock end or the headtock end and do you keep trimming away in one area more than others? By the way, I just ordered the video you recommended.

You cut as you would whittle, taking off a bit at the very outside, then swing the tool back and start a bit farther up, swing it in and whittling down. Once you have a mostly round piece you can shave rather than whittle, because you can get support by guiding on the bevel.

Illustrations abound for free on youtube and such places, and in every standard woodworking text. This site has a lot of good free stuff, including his Introduction to Woodturning which explains down hill and down grain, which is why you cut in the direction you do. http://www.turningtools.co.uk/index.html

Your original question was so strange I think most people thought you weren't serious. I thought you were poking fun.

BTW, first cuts are made at the saw. No reason in the world to have to take abuse you'll get whacking the corners off. Unless you're going for a round in square.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Four-Quarter-Pin-Jaws.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/HeartBirch.jpg
 
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What they said, except I had trouble deciphering your original question. The ratio of views to replies is close to normal, if you check some other recent threads, sometimes even division by zero.:eek::D
 
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Wow!!! What an overwhelming response. I would guess I made a big mistake joining this group in hopes of finding some assistance. Over 115 views and only 1 reply leads me to think nobody wants to waste their time helping anybody. I wish I could have been born knowing everything so I wouldn't need to ask questions.


Wow, that was a really snotty post. With that kind of attitude I'd be surprised if you get any responses at all. Oh wait, you already got some very helpful responses to a very vague question. It can often be difficult to understand exactly what someone is asking by text alone. Pictures can be very helpful. As can patience. Most of us are not just sitting around waiting for someone to ask questions.

And just so you know, I read almost every post but seldom have the time to write out long elaborate responses. I think you can tell this one hit a sore spot.

So take the advice already given and get out to the shop and make some wood chips.
 
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Larry,

Having spent my first year in a "duck and doge" phase, I made contact with the local AAW chapter. They were very helpful in teaching me the basics and continue to be helpful now that I am more accomplished. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then someone showing you is worth a thousand pictures. There are seven local chapters in Ohio. Hopefully there is one close to you.

If not, try taking some classes at a WoodCraft, or though an adult education course.

Have fun.
Happy turning.

A.
 
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