Help Choosing a Bandsaw

[John Hatton]

I'm wanting to purchase a 14" bandsaw within the next 3 or 4 months. I'm looking at the Powermatic and the Jet. They look like the same bandsaw to me, and I know that they are both made by Walter Meier. As I am new to woodworking and woodturning, I'm trying to see what the difference $400 makes between the solid base 14" Jet and the solid base 14" Powermatic.

The one thing I like about the Powermatic is the rollerbearing blade guides. The Jet has metal blocks. I would think that the blocks would wear out in time, whereas the rollerbearing guides on the Powermatic would last much, much longer. I know that I can eventually put roller bearings in the Jet - Just wanting to know what would be the best way to go here... Sometimes quality cannot be seen on the surface and I wanted to know if I'm missing something.
Thanks,
John

 

[MichaelMouse]

What you consider an advantage is, in my experience, a disadvantage to turners. We cut a lot of wet or green wood when we Turn Dry Turn, and that gums up even the best of bearings. I'm ceramics, which are slick, unaffected by acid and don't gum up with sugars in sap. Resaw flat stuff beautifully as well.

Can't say that I've done more than look at the two nearly side-by-side, but the ones I looked at were night and day in fit, finish, and ease of operating the settings. Thus I would consider Powermatic is the long-runner. Of course I have USA Delta, which is a few rungs above the current model in fit and finish, and it's been a good one.

There are different grades of materials, bearings, machining tolerances, and so forth that normally make the difference in price. The buyer chooses.

 

[David Somers]

There are different grades of materials, bearings, machining tolerances, and so forth that normally make the difference in price. The buyer chooses.

Michael,

Could we get you to expound on this last paragraph a bit please? Normally, the spec sheets I see on various products like this don't get into this kind of detail. I have not gotten this even when asking for it. Where do you look for this level of detail on a product like a bandsaw or a lathe or other piece of big equipment so you can make a fair evaluation.

I guess we could assume that a pricier product has better grade materials and tolerances, but I know that is not always the case.

And to go with that question....where do you find information about how much of a difference is significant to us as turners, or as furniture makers, or whatever use we are buying the equipment for.

Thanks Michael!

Dave

 

[Owen Lowe]

The one thing I like about the Powermatic is the rollerbearing blade guides. The Jet has metal blocks. I would think that the blocks would wear out in time, whereas the rollerbearing guides on the Powermatic would last much, much longer.

I agree with MichaelMouse: If your use is primarily for woodturning with green wood, don't go with roller guides. The Carter versions came standard on my Delta and I'm sorry they're there. The surfaces that contact the blade get packed with dust, dirt and sap. They also pack it on the blade sides.

If you do wood working with dry woods then they may be an advantage. Consider that the block setups have been around since bandsaws were invented and have done fine work.

You may be able to find a Powermatic with blocks. (Also consider a used machine -- a little knowledge can get you a superior (and maybe larger) machine for much less than new.

 

[Steve Worcester]

You can always upgrade the guides to ceramics fairly cheaply. Or go to Carter bearing guides later too.

 

[craterdog]

Bandsaw

I have a Jet 14" and love it. It came with roller guides the previous owner had installed. After a few hours of use, I switched to "Cool Blocks" because the bearings were very loud. I did the same thing with a previous bandsaw that had metal blocks. The noise level drops dramatically. I've never had any problems with sap or dust clogging them up and the Cool Blocks can be set very close to the blade to keep it from twisting and the blade runs much cooler. I've had the Jet for 3 years and still have the same Cool Blocks.
Tim Carter

 

[MichaelMouse]

Michael,

Could we get you to expound on this last paragraph a bit please? Normally, the spec sheets I see on various products like this don't get into this kind of detail. I have not gotten this even when asking for it. Where do you look for this level of detail on a product like a bandsaw or a lathe or other piece of big equipment so you can make a fair evaluation.

Dave

Would that it were so easy! Certain things, like the more expensive roller guides, the thickness of the metal in the stand,the greater weight in copper windings in the motor are easy to see IF YOU LOOK for them. Might not make a big difference, it's true, like the roller guides for those who use wood, phenolic or ceramic. Costs more, though. Just like that good powder coat over the clean casting rather than painted-over sand.

When I worked at Dearborn stamping, one of the lines made wheel wells. We could make Ford brand with more gaps in the strip weld than Mercury brand, but I doubt any customer ever knew it. Wouldn't rust out in the north as fast, but otherwise....

In advertising, like politics, you have to evaluate the promises not against your desire, but against reality. Trouble is, hiding reality is the essence of the game.

 

[David Somers]

Thanks Michael! I kind of suspected that was the answer but hoped you might have a background with access to far different info than I normally am able to dig up. I know you have the background.....but beyond that......you cant dig up what ain't there! <grin>

When I bought my Jet 1642 as my first lathe a number of years ago I knew there were things in it that were not as solid as the higher end Mustard Machines, and the even higher end Oneways and whatnot....but the price fit and I felt I could live with the quality. Turns out it was a good decision and the lathe has served me well. I may be doing some things on it that will eventually wear out the bearings on the spindle, but know I can replace them easily enough with a higher end bearing when the time comes. In the meantime she has been a good machine for me.

As you said....being aware of what you are buying and what the differences may be with other higher end machines and then determining if the upgrade is right for you is the key. Finding the info in the first place is the tricky part.

Jet was pretty open to my questions by the way....and their answers have turned out to be pretty realistic based on my experiences so far.

Thanks again Michael!

Dave

 

[john lucas]

Ditto on the roller bearings being bad for cutting green wood. My used Delta 14" has them. I don't have the parts for the older fixed guides or I would change back in a heart beat.
Fixed guides actually last quite a while and can be reground when they start to wear. They also aren't very expensive to replace. I use to use wooden ones that I made. It took about 2 minutes to make another set when they started wearing.

 

[John Hatton]

Thanks all, and a special thanks to you, Michael.

Very good discussion... I think that Michael convinced me to spring for the Powermatic. After doing more research, I found that the Powermatic had the Carter QuickRelease Blade Tension Toggle already installed. I figure I'd end up buying that and putting it on the Jet the same day I bought the Jet if I went that way. If I did that, I might as well go with the Powermatic anyway...

Now the tricky part, you all have put up some good evidence that the Cool Blocks are the way to go for turners. Can you buy aftermarket blade guides for a Powermatic 14" that you can install Cool Blocks in? Probably a dumb question, but I'm very new to woodworking and turning and I'm learning.

Thanks for all the help - I'm enjoying the discussion.
jw

 

[Dave W]

Picked this up over the weekend for $55.00




Can't go wrong with a delta either.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Stopped by the confessional on the way home, did you?

Nice saw.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Look into ceramic blocks. This is one company that makes them
http://www.spaceageceramicguideblocks.com/Guideblocks.html

They wear better, but are more brittle.
But, I would work with what you got, use good blades (highly reccomend Timberwolf blades or anyone that uses that type of band material. Also like Spence Distributors Flexback blades), and keep the sides a little more loose. They don't have to ride on the blade, but keep the blade from going real twisted. The back one needs to be adjusted so the distance doesn't allow the teeth to hit the side guides.

 

[John Hatton]

I drove over to Woodcraft yesterday to lay my eyes on the Powermatic and the Jet. The Powermatic just has that many more features and options that I think I'm going to go with it.

My trouble is that I'm finding it difficult to find aftermarket guideblock style guides to replace the rollerbearing guides on the Powermatic. Everything is so expensive... I wonder if I could order the Jet style guideblock style guide from Jet spare parts...

The ceramic blocks look very interesting indeed. I also looked at the cool blocks while I was at Woodcraft. They look really nice...

 

[Rick M]

. . . I wonder if I could order the Jet style guideblock style guide from Jet spare parts...

I've found Jet/Powermatic Technical Support folks extremely helpful and easy to contact for answers to problems and details like you seek. [we need a "thumbs up" icon in the smilies]

 

[Joyce Baldauf]

One word, RIKON.

 

[David Parker]

One word, RIKON.

I have to echo Joyce. I have the 14 inch Rikon 10-325 and love it. When on sale at Woodcraft, it's also a good price. It has cut every log I've put through it without difficulty and the 12" resaw capacity is a big help with larger logs. With my log holding jig, I can bandsaw large logs instead of using the chain saw.

Dave

 

[windsors]

bandsaw

Buy a Laguna Problem solved.

 

[n7bsn]

David
I don't know if you know it, but Equipment Sales and Surplus (down in Auburn) can be a great source for Powermatic or Jet tools. They are right next door to Powermatic/Jet warehouse and sometimes get return/refurb units at great prices.

As for blades, a good 3/8 3 tpi "green" wood blade is probably what you want.

For a bandsaw, another option I haven't seen mentioned is the Grizzly 0555X. A good unit for the price

Ralph

 

[Cathy Schaewe]

I have to echo Joyce. I have the 14 inch Rikon 10-325 and love it. When on sale at Woodcraft, it's also a good price. It has cut every log I've put through it without difficulty and the 12" resaw capacity is a big help with larger logs. With my log holding jig, I can bandsaw large logs instead of using the chain saw.

Dave

Log holding jig? Can you post a picture??

 

[Steve Worcester]

Log holding jig? Can you post a picture??

http://americanwoodworker.com/userdocs/articles/200008/main/index.html