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Has anyone made their own hollowing tool blades? I am particularly intrested in the round style with the hole in the center. What type of drill bit is used for the hole?
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Hollow turning tool blades
- Thread starter Virgil Young
- Start date
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
If you are talking about the round sort of scrapers, you can make then out of any type of HS steel stock, or even planer blades. Cutting with a cobalt or diamond saw and drilling with a properly lubricated cobalt bit. At least a bit harder than the stock you are drilling.
If it is Tantung G, only grinding will work, but the results are worth it as the edge lasts quite awhile.
Maybe Doug Thompson can make a new line of bits using his steel?
If it is Tantung G, only grinding will work, but the results are worth it as the edge lasts quite awhile.
Maybe Doug Thompson can make a new line of bits using his steel?
Steve, Where can you but the HHS for makin these cutters?
Thanks,
Norm
Thanks,
Norm
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
You can buy it in small chunks like used in (metal) lathe tool making from places like Enco (www.useenco.com) and McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com). If you google M2 tool steel or M4, you will find alot of places.
What shapes or sizes are you looking to make?
Virgil, I’ve made a couple of hollowing cutters using a carbide drill to drill the hole, what a pain. I use a 2 inch cut-off wheel and die-grinder to cut the HSS to length, so I started cutting a slot instead of drilling. Benefits, one less operation, as in no drill press set-up. And with a slot, just loosen bolt and slide cutter off to sharpen. HSS from Enco.
cc
cc
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I have a scraper bar, 3/8" thick by 1" wide, with a 1/4" square HSS tool bit soft-soldered on the end. It's a side scraper, and I cut a ledge out with an end mill chucked in my metal-turning lathe with the bar held on the cross-slide. I think it was pure tin solder, the type sold for aluminum. This was over ten years ago I did this, and it's gotten a fair bit of use.
You are supposed to be able to get HSS a dark red hot before having to worry about losing the temper, so brazing or silver-soldering ought to be feasible.
Also, JB-Weld or epoxy should work well, if the mating surfaces are cleaned and degreased (same goes for soldering and brazing). I would not use a 5-minute epoxy, but a slow setting one for maximum strength.
You are supposed to be able to get HSS a dark red hot before having to worry about losing the temper, so brazing or silver-soldering ought to be feasible.
Also, JB-Weld or epoxy should work well, if the mating surfaces are cleaned and degreased (same goes for soldering and brazing). I would not use a 5-minute epoxy, but a slow setting one for maximum strength.
I read the request as applying to cup cutters.
We have several sources here in Oz, so you guys must have them there. There's units made from HSS as well as tungsten carbide.
Cheaper to buy than to make.
We have several sources here in Oz, so you guys must have them there. There's units made from HSS as well as tungsten carbide.
Cheaper to buy than to make.
I made a cutter out of M2 HSS. I visited a local machine shop and asked him about getting some. He showed me a piece that was about 1" by 3" 3/16. I needed it to be smaller, so I took a Dremel tool with a small grinder blade mounted in it, and cut it to the size I needed.
Hope that helps
Wyatt
Hope that helps
Wyatt
Another thought, Sears sells high speed steel cutters for it's triple headed planner/molder. For about $10 to $15, they come in different shapes and have a hole in them already.
Aaron
Aaron
3 ft scraper
i made a hollow vessel scraper out of 3/4 round steel I bought at Lowes. I just ground down the steel until I had the desired shape. It works great and it only cost me $12. I have to sharpen it more than someone who bought a higher grade of steel, but it still works well for quite a while and the 3/4 round steel does not flex or bounce around very much due to the weight.
thanks,
Jay
i made a hollow vessel scraper out of 3/4 round steel I bought at Lowes. I just ground down the steel until I had the desired shape. It works great and it only cost me $12. I have to sharpen it more than someone who bought a higher grade of steel, but it still works well for quite a while and the 3/4 round steel does not flex or bounce around very much due to the weight.
thanks,
Jay
hollowing cutter
Do you mean a cutter like the oneway termite, with the complete circle with a hole in the middle? I wanted one of those but wasn't willing to part wit $89 bucks. I bought the tip and my father cut a piece of round rod, drilled a hole in the end to accept the tip, drilled and tapped a set screw hole for it, then I made a handle. Total cost, one tip, $28.
Do you mean a cutter like the oneway termite, with the complete circle with a hole in the middle? I wanted one of those but wasn't willing to part wit $89 bucks. I bought the tip and my father cut a piece of round rod, drilled a hole in the end to accept the tip, drilled and tapped a set screw hole for it, then I made a handle. Total cost, one tip, $28.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
It's a pain and expensive to drill a hole in the center of hardened HSS cutters. You can get drill bits to do it but they are expensive. I think the name of the company is ARU or something like that. They actually cut with an abrasive action and you have to spin the bit at high speed. When it starts to get red hot it starts drilling.
It's much easier to cut slots using an angle grinder and cutoff blade or even the Dremel with the cuttoff tool but you have to be patient to use that.
Find used planer blades. The tools pictured were made from old files that were annealed, cut to shape, heat treated and then tempered.
The advantage of the slot over the hole is sharpening ease. It's very easy to remove the tip to sharpen. I use the flat tool rest on the oneway jig to sharpen these. Just lay the tool on there and rotate. If you need to remove the one with the hole you have to completely remove the screw. It is way to easy to drop and lose those screws in the shavings. With the slot cutter the screw is never removed.
It's much easier to cut slots using an angle grinder and cutoff blade or even the Dremel with the cuttoff tool but you have to be patient to use that.
Find used planer blades. The tools pictured were made from old files that were annealed, cut to shape, heat treated and then tempered.
The advantage of the slot over the hole is sharpening ease. It's very easy to remove the tip to sharpen. I use the flat tool rest on the oneway jig to sharpen these. Just lay the tool on there and rotate. If you need to remove the one with the hole you have to completely remove the screw. It is way to easy to drop and lose those screws in the shavings. With the slot cutter the screw is never removed.
Attachments
I don't make the round scraping cutters I use but would make the following points.
Interesting that it is found to be time consuming to have to remove the screw. This implies frequent sharpening. I use the screw to mount the cutters on a rotating holder for the Tormek system. I've added a handle one turns when the cutter is against the stone and the polishing wheel. This is fairly quick and easy and produces a very sharp cutting edge. What makes this workeable as a method is having several cutters which are sharpened when they have all been used. When they are new, I flatten the tops of the cutters with diamond paste.
I magic mark the edges after sharpening them. This way it's easy to tell if an area of edge has been used when rotating them.
Malcolm Smith.
Interesting that it is found to be time consuming to have to remove the screw. This implies frequent sharpening. I use the screw to mount the cutters on a rotating holder for the Tormek system. I've added a handle one turns when the cutter is against the stone and the polishing wheel. This is fairly quick and easy and produces a very sharp cutting edge. What makes this workeable as a method is having several cutters which are sharpened when they have all been used. When they are new, I flatten the tops of the cutters with diamond paste.
I magic mark the edges after sharpening them. This way it's easy to tell if an area of edge has been used when rotating them.
Malcolm Smith.
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made some out of drill rod and after drilling and shaping etc i silver soldered them on to a rod. immediatly after silver soldering i quenched them in oil. worked well. i sharpen them with a cone shaped wheel
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Malcolm I only use these cutters to clean up the tool marks left from the smaller cutters so they don't usually need sharpening that often. However it only takes a second to sharpen. Loosen the screw,put the cutter on the grinder tool rest and rotate it past the wheel. re-install it. Takes all of 30 seconds.
Check out Rolly Munro replacement cutters either in HSS or Tungsten Carbide
Lee Valley sell the sets and may have the replacement cutters
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49127&cat=1,330,49232&ap=1
If you want to machine or drill HSS do it before its hardened.
http://www.crucibleservice.com/eselector/prodbyapp/highspeed/highspeedapptitle.html
Last edited:
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
This is not usually an option as most of us don't have access to hardening abilities.
I have made scraper blades from O1 steel that I purchased from Enco. I use my 4" surface grinder with a cutter wheel to cut off the length I want. Then I shape with the grinder and drill a hole where I want it. Then I heat with a torch to bright cherry red and quench in veg oil. Then off to my wife's oven and I heat up to 350 for one hour and then turn off the heat. I leave the steel to cool in the oven overnight. Then I sharpen them at the grinder. Works great. Hugh