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Home Made Kiln

Do you have a home made kiln?


  • Total voters
    7

RichColvin

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Yesterday, I went to get some more light bulbs. My wife likes the GE incandescent bulbs, but it seems that incandescent bulbs are no longer available. I had heard that this was to happen, and sure enough : LED and CFL are the only real options left.

What will you use in kilns now ?
 
Joined
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They used to make screw in heating elements that would fit an edison base lamp socket.
I looked on the internet and they still make them, you would need to use a rheostat to control
the level of heat output of the element. If you look around you can still find edison based lamps
you might want to purchase a supply of them if you have a need for the incandescent version.
 
Joined
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The often repeated old woodworkers tale about cell walls rupturing doesn't hold water (pardon the pun). Most likely it is being confused with what happens when wood becomes case hardened because of kiln drying at too high a temperature or some other wood defect. The article that I previously referenced barely mentioned case hardening and what they said wasn't quite detailed enough to get a complete picture. However, an important point in the article is that the main goal of kiln drying isn't to speed up drying, but to get the wood into a dry stable state by hardening the lignin. Faster drying has to be tempered with understanding drying defects. As the article says, you're walking a fine line between getting a dry stable product and unstable case hardened wood. Case hardening isn't a YES or NO condition because it exists to a certain degree in all kiln dried wood. With proper drying, the effects of case hardening can be kept unnoticeable.

Thanks for insightful post, Bill. I think it highlights a problem between woodworkers and wood scientists: as woodworkers we know many of the properties of wood through direct experience, but the science often doesn't get through to us...and I'll go out on a limb and say that much of the practical experience doesn't get through to the wood scientists. A couple years ago I talked with a wood scientist who couldn't even identify the local woods in my bowls, species he had studied for decades. And here I am on this forum repeating what I've been told about cell rupture by well-meaning, but unknowing, woodworkers.

If I can point out an additional aspect of case hardening...I'm fairly certain that you don't even need heat to have wood case harden. I know because I dried a few hundred BF of western hemlock too fast in my drying shed. I was in a hurry to take my hemlock from 18% outside MC (air dried for years) to 8% for cabinets. No heat, just very dry air from a dehumidifier. There was so much tension in that case hardened wood that I could not cut it with a 15 amps chop saw in one pass. The first board I cut grabbed the blade so tight it stopped the blade cold and tore off several carbide teeth. I was still able to use the wood, I just had to be careful to cut in passes to relieve the crazy tension bound into the wood. The end lessson: for me, don't dry wood—especially hemlock—so fast.

I'll have a read through the kiln drying chapters you posted as time allows.
 
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I too wonder about the temperature. My 40 watt incandescent bulbs keeps the temperature at a steady 85,...

I'm not an expert...but 85 doesn't seem that hot, especially since your trees already are used to temperatures not that far below. My take on drying wood is that its best to sneak up on temperature increases. The article Bill posted mentioned that as well.

Are you monitoring the relative humidity (RH) of the air as well? I think that says a lot. If you're already starting at 70F and raising the temperature to 85F, you haven't made a huge drop in RH, as your fans must not be going that fast to be at 85F with only a 40 watt bulb.

You'll know a lot more after a few runs! Again, I think someone who is already drying Koa under your approximate conditions would really offer a lot of wisdom. I know my conditions and woods are so different from yours...and that's just between the 49th and 50th states! ;)
 

Bill Boehme

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I too wonder about the temperature. My 40 watt incandescent bulbs keeps the temperature at a steady 85,...

You can have a sample piece that you weigh periodically and when most of the free water is gone you can gradually increase the temperature. Maybe an easy way would be to block off some of the vent holes. By the end of the drying cycle the kiln temperature can be about 120° F.

I'm not too crazy about the idea of drilling a lot of holes in a box because I think that leads drying too fast. It might work for your high humidity climate, but I don't think it would work well here.
 

Bill Boehme

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If I can point out an additional aspect of case hardening...I'm fairly certain that you don't even need heat to have wood case harden.

That is absolutely true. It would be very difficult for wood to dry without developing stresses and wood that is air dried under bad circumstances could have a lot more case hardening than wood that is properly kiln dried. Generally though it is a significant issue with commercial kiln drying where drying is accelerated. As far as woodturning is concerned, it's only an issue when wood cracks during drying. Because of the size and shape of the rough turnings being dried I don't think that movement when it is finish turned amounts to anything significant.

Identifying wood can sometimes be a challenge so I won't dis anybody who gets "stumped". During my club's Christmas banquet I won a turning block that was labeled as aspen. I didn't disagree with the ID, but it looked more like ponderosa pine or some sort of pine. I'm not an expert so I won't say that there isn't any aspen that is golden brown with distinctive growth rings, but all that I have see is uniformly ivory colored. Regardless of the true identity, it is a nice piece of wood.

Are you monitoring the relative humidity (RH) of the air as well? I think that says a lot. If you're already starting at 70F and raising the temperature to 85F, you haven't made a huge drop in RH, as your fans must not be going that fast to be at 85F with only a 40 watt bulb.

You'll know a lot more after a few runs!

Thanks for mentioning some of the things that I was concerned about. And your last sentence sums up everything very succinctly. Knowledge comes from experience. And a lot of that experience is learning what doesn't work. These lessons are the kind that stick with you, kink of like learning how not to get catches when learning woodturning.
 

Bill Boehme

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Yesterday, I went to get some more light bulbs. My wife likes the GE incandescent bulbs, but it seems that incandescent bulbs are no longer available. I had heard that this was to happen, and sure enough : LED and CFL are the only real options left.

What will you use in kilns now ?

They're still available in my local Ace Hardware store although some of the higher wattage bulbs are getting harder to find. There are a number of specialty applications where they are the only kind that can be uses, such as in ovens.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Yesterday, I went to get some more light bulbs. My wife likes the GE incandescent bulbs, but it seems that incandescent bulbs are no longer available. I had heard that this was to happen, and sure enough : LED and CFL are the only real options left.

What will you use in kilns now ?
If you read above, we are using oven lights. They are incandescent, heavy duty. Available at Lowes or home depot. Its working great for me, 40 watts...
 
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Drying rough turned bowls is not a science, at least in my opinion. Some types of trees are more prone to cracking than others. Last January I cut a walnut tree on my property and roughed out bowls within a month. If I got my counting correct I had about 48 rough turned bowls, almost all NE, I mostly twice turn NE bowls, I just like them better. I coated the wood blocks with AnchorSeal when I blocked them up and after I rough turn them I coated the entire bowl with AnchorSeal. I have had six bowls crack so far, which is high percentage for me, especially for walnut which is usually pretty stable. Sometime after the Feb. 1 I cut a cherry tree and and blocked and AnchorSealed the ends. It is stored in a shed and covered with a plastic tarp. I have rough turned about 15 cherry bowls so far and none has cracked "knock on wood". I have been microwaving the cherry s soon as I take the rough turn off the lathe. I bring the temperature to "to hot to hold with bare hands" and keep it there for 20 to 30 minutes. I also put it in a plastic trash bag with the top folded under the bowl. I let it cool down in the bag and then take it out and put it in a paper feed bag till it get to around 20% percent moisture and then it is set on the floor of my shop. The shop is heated but seldom gets over 65 degrees, Sounds like a lot of work but it is important to me to have good bowls to sell, if one is cracked it goes in the junk corner. Drying bowls is a sometime, maybe if, crap shoot, I sell my bowls in a place that advertises "Best of West Virginia" and I try to give them my best.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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I sometimes rough turn NE bowls. But, the beauty of them is that I can finish them right away. The next day I sand them, and they are ready. Usually I apply Danish Oil, then laquer . If they warp, nobody notices it... I dont remember when was the last time I had one break... My Hawaiian Calabashes on the other hand, I like them perfectly round, they go on a shelve for at least 6 months, its humid here in Maui, i have a 95 % success drying rate with Koa. Now, other woods, not so lucky...
 

hockenbery

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I almost never double turn a NE bowl.

However I think spherical and taller than wide NE bowls have forms look better totally round and double turning gets them round.

To me the NE bowls are about the organic elements of the wood.
I use blanks several inches longer than wide to accentuate the ovalness which the drying adds to.
Crotch bowls get these marvelous bumps in the bottom that shows off the feather.
 
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