How to turn a peppermill
By
Mike Cunningham
Making a peppermill is a relatively simple process combining spindle turning techniques and drilling on the lathe.
You will need a roughing gouge, parting tool , various spindle gouges and a heavy round nosed scraper. In addition you will need a Jacobs chuck on a morse taper suitable to your lathe and a selection of forstner bits and one twist or brad point bit. A section of sandpaper and the finish of your choosing. Also, if you're turning a long mill, you may want to use a steady rest.
As for the drill bits, you'll need the following forstner bits; 1 5/8", 1 1/16", 1" and 7/8". Also a 17/64" or 9/32" twist or brad point bit.
Finally you need the grinder mechanism. I recommend a stainless steel kit available from Craft Supply http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ or from Chef Specialties https://chefspecialties.com . These are available in lengths ranging from 4" to 24".
Choose a blank that will be used in a spindle orientation between centers that's at least 2 1/4" in diameter and a length appropriate to the size mill you wish to have. The blank should be a bit longer than the anticipated finished length.
Mount the blank between centers and rough to a cylinder. Once you have finished the roughing process, square the ends and cut a tenon at each end appropriate to the size of your lathe chuck. Cut a third tenon, at a location that will eventually be the bottom of the mill cap, depending on the overall length of the mill the cap will be about 3" in length, not including the tenon. This tenon should be longer than the previous two, enough for a chuck tenon on the long end of the cylinder and then another portion which will be left on the cap end.
Once the blank is roughed and the three tenons have been turned, remove the blank from the lathe. At this time cut the cap away from the body of the mill, leaving a chuck tenon on the body and the remainder of the tenon on the cap. If cutting on a bandsaw, use a clamp or jig to hold the blank. Cutting round or cylindrical objects on a bandsaw can be dangerous. The blade can grab and spin the work, pulling your hand into the cutting path. I use a handscrew to hold one end of the blank.
You now have two blanks; the long base section of the mill which has a chuck tenon at each end and the shorter cap section with a chuck tenon on it's top and a longer tenon on it's base.
You're now ready to begin the drilling sequence. Mount the longer base section on the lathe using the tenon on what will be the top of the base. The eventual bottom of the mill will be facing the tailstock. Secure the blank in your chuck and insure that it turns true. Drilling on the lathe should always be done at a very low rpm. Set the lathe speed low, preferably 200 - 300 rpms. On most mini lathes this is not possible so use the lowest setting that you have, probably 500. Insert the Jacobs chuck into the tailstock and insert a 1 5/8" forstner bit into the chuck, make sure it's secure in the chuck and that the chuck is secure in the tailstock. Slide the tailstock forward until the point of the bit is just shy of the mill blank and lock the tailstock to the ways. Turn the lathe on and using the tailstock advance, slowly crank the bit forward into the turning blank. Drill slowly, take small bites and retract the bit often to clear chips and shavings. Clearing the debris is not overly critical at this stage but later when drilling deep into the blank it is very important to follow this direction. Failure to do so can result in a drill bit firmly lodged deep in the blank with removal very difficult.
With the 1 5/8" forstner bit, drill a hole 3/8" deep beyond the tenon. The exact depth of this hole is not an absolute, this hole is merely the area where the ground pepper will exit the mill and also forms the inner diameter of the eventual base upon which the mill will rest. Use a small rule to measure the depth. Remember the depth is measured beyond the tenon!
You've now completed the first step in the drilling schedule. Remove the 1 5/8" bit and chuck the 1 1/16" bit and again move the bit into position. Turn on the lathe and drilling in the same manner, bore a hole 5/8" deep beyond the previous hole. This hole or recess will house the actual grinding mechanism and it's depth should be as near exact as possible. Step two of the drilling schedule is complete and you're on your way to deep drilling now.
Remove the 1 1/16" bit and chuck the 1" forstner and again move the bit into position. This is where slow, shallow bites with the bit and constant clearing of chips and shavings is critical. You'll be drilling through the remainder of the blank to and through the other end. Failure to clear the debris will very possibly, in fact probably, result in the bit becoming lodged deep in the blank. If this occurs removal can be difficult, often requiring that both blank and bit be removed from the lathe and then the application of quite a bit of brute force in the manner of grabbing, twisting and turning. So, a word to the wise, short bites and clear the debris often!
The purpose of this 1" diameter hole through the length of the mill is twofold. First, this hole provides a passage for the drive rod that connects the cap which the user twists to grind pepper, to the actual grinding mechanism in the bottom of the base. It also provides a reservoir for the whole pepper. The hole can be bored through in one of two ways. The first option and the one that I most often choose is the use of a bit extension. This is nothing more than a length of rod with a recess in the end and an allen screw. The forstner bit fits into the recess and is held in place with the allen screw. This effectively extends the length of the bit and enables it to reach through all but the longest blanks. These extensions are available in various lengths, through wood turning supply houses, hardware stores and home improvement centers.
A second method to drill through the blank is to drill approximately half the length from the base end. Remove the blank from the chuck, reverse it by chucking the base end tenon and then drilling the remainder from the top end. The holes will meet and should be dead on, but even if they aren't it's not important, we've already discussed the purpose for this hole and having that in mind, along with the fact that the hole will never be seen or inspected, perfection just doesn't matter.
I use the former method drilling through the blank, however if you have a small lathe, a lathe that's a bit underpowered or don't have a bit extension, the latter is perfectly acceptable. The important thing is to form a hole the length of the blank, how you arrive at that is moot. In fact, some turners hollow through without the use of a bit. Those are the options, you make the choice.
So, we've bored a succession of holes, 1 5/8" followed by 1 1/16" followed by 1". The drilling sequence for the base section is complete. Remove the base from the chuck and set aside.
Now it's time to work on the blank which will become the cap. Chuck this blank onto the lathe using the tenon on what will be the top of the cap. At the base your looking at the short tenon where you sawed or otherwise separated the cap and base sections earlier. Now for a short bit of turning.....followed by more drill work. Increase your speed setting for that which is appropriate for spindle turning and form a tenon on the base that is between 1/2" and 3/4" long and of a diameter which will permit it to fit somewhat snuggly into the 1" hole in the top of the base section, the hole that you just finished boring through the blank. You'll want a tenon that will permit the cap to turn freely in the base, but is not too sloppy. However, if you just had to choose between too tight and too loose, loose would win. Remember someone will be turning this cap to grind pepper, you don't want their knuckles to turn white while doing so!
I use a parting tool coming into the tenon at 90 degrees to achieve the correct diameter of the tenon. Initially I only turn a very small portion at the end of the tenon and I stop the lathe quite often to check the fit of the tenon to the 1" opening in the base section. The reason for turning just the end of the tenon??...If I turn it too small I haven't lost the entire tenon, just that portion which I've turned. Once I achieve the correct diameter I turn the remainder of the tenon to this diameter and again check to insure proper fit. Once your satisfied, put down the turning tool, it's time to drill again!
Place the 7/8" forstner bit into the jacobs chuck and, just like with drilling the base, move the point up to the base. You're going to dill a very short recess into the tenon, only about 1/8" or so in depth. The purpose of this recess is to center and house a portion of the mechanism which I call, for want of a better term, the drive plate This drive plate is round and has a square hole in its center which captures the drive rod and turns it when the user turns the cap, this in turn operates the grinding mechanism way down in the base. Now, you'll find that this drive plate is a tad larger than the 7/8" forstner bit, just a hair. Use your parting tool and open the drilled recess just a very small amount to accept the plate. Just take off a very small amount and stop the lathe and check the fit, turn until it fits snug. There will be very little wood remaining around the drive plate. That's fine, the purpose of this is to center the drive plate on the tenon, the remaining wood serves no other purpose.
Okay, one more step in the drill schedule and that's it! Remove the forstner bit and chuck a 9/32" or 17/64" twist or brad point bit. You're going to bore a hole completely through the cap, from the tenon through the top. The purpose of this hole is to provide a passage to the drive rod to the top of the cap where the threaded metal cap will attach and control the size of the grind.
You'll find that the manufacturer and sellers of the grind mechanisms often include directions with the product and call for a 1/4" hole. My experience has taught me that this is just a bit too narrow. Lets keep in mind we're working with wood and dry it may be, it'll change with humidity and therefore will move. If you happen to turn a rather long cap and only provide a 1/4" hole, though which the rod will travel and the rod is only a minuscule amount smaller than the 1/4" hole, the rod may bind. If that happens, the cap won't turn or at best will be very difficult to turn and the user may not be able to remove the cap to fill the reservoir with pepper, the user will be quite upset with you and this work of art that you've made. So, bore the hole a 1/64" or 1/32" larger, I use a 17/64". This sequence is very straight forward, just bore the hole until you come out the other end. Again, take small bites and clear the debris, Also, take care not to impact the chuck with the drill bit when you exit the wood! This applies when turning the 1" hole through the base as well. Just take your time and you'll avoid this bit destroying occurrence. A hint....when the bit breaks out of the end of the wood, you'll see a small amount of sawdust "erupt" from around the wood and chuck....you're through!
That's the end of the drilling, honest! It sounds like a lot and sounds as though it's involved, it's not. Three different bits for the base and two for the cap.
Okay, drilling is complete and now we can turn.
As mentioned before, turning a peppermill is straightforward spindle turning. You're finished mill can be as simple as you like or covered with embellishments and surface treatments. You can turn beads and coves, add various elements such as copper, brass, aluminum and powdered and ground minerals, as well as complimentary or contrasting wood all contained within turned rebates and dadoes. The only limit is your imagination.
To be con't.
By
Mike Cunningham
Making a peppermill is a relatively simple process combining spindle turning techniques and drilling on the lathe.
You will need a roughing gouge, parting tool , various spindle gouges and a heavy round nosed scraper. In addition you will need a Jacobs chuck on a morse taper suitable to your lathe and a selection of forstner bits and one twist or brad point bit. A section of sandpaper and the finish of your choosing. Also, if you're turning a long mill, you may want to use a steady rest.
As for the drill bits, you'll need the following forstner bits; 1 5/8", 1 1/16", 1" and 7/8". Also a 17/64" or 9/32" twist or brad point bit.
Finally you need the grinder mechanism. I recommend a stainless steel kit available from Craft Supply http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ or from Chef Specialties https://chefspecialties.com . These are available in lengths ranging from 4" to 24".
Choose a blank that will be used in a spindle orientation between centers that's at least 2 1/4" in diameter and a length appropriate to the size mill you wish to have. The blank should be a bit longer than the anticipated finished length.
Mount the blank between centers and rough to a cylinder. Once you have finished the roughing process, square the ends and cut a tenon at each end appropriate to the size of your lathe chuck. Cut a third tenon, at a location that will eventually be the bottom of the mill cap, depending on the overall length of the mill the cap will be about 3" in length, not including the tenon. This tenon should be longer than the previous two, enough for a chuck tenon on the long end of the cylinder and then another portion which will be left on the cap end.
Once the blank is roughed and the three tenons have been turned, remove the blank from the lathe. At this time cut the cap away from the body of the mill, leaving a chuck tenon on the body and the remainder of the tenon on the cap. If cutting on a bandsaw, use a clamp or jig to hold the blank. Cutting round or cylindrical objects on a bandsaw can be dangerous. The blade can grab and spin the work, pulling your hand into the cutting path. I use a handscrew to hold one end of the blank.
You now have two blanks; the long base section of the mill which has a chuck tenon at each end and the shorter cap section with a chuck tenon on it's top and a longer tenon on it's base.
You're now ready to begin the drilling sequence. Mount the longer base section on the lathe using the tenon on what will be the top of the base. The eventual bottom of the mill will be facing the tailstock. Secure the blank in your chuck and insure that it turns true. Drilling on the lathe should always be done at a very low rpm. Set the lathe speed low, preferably 200 - 300 rpms. On most mini lathes this is not possible so use the lowest setting that you have, probably 500. Insert the Jacobs chuck into the tailstock and insert a 1 5/8" forstner bit into the chuck, make sure it's secure in the chuck and that the chuck is secure in the tailstock. Slide the tailstock forward until the point of the bit is just shy of the mill blank and lock the tailstock to the ways. Turn the lathe on and using the tailstock advance, slowly crank the bit forward into the turning blank. Drill slowly, take small bites and retract the bit often to clear chips and shavings. Clearing the debris is not overly critical at this stage but later when drilling deep into the blank it is very important to follow this direction. Failure to do so can result in a drill bit firmly lodged deep in the blank with removal very difficult.
With the 1 5/8" forstner bit, drill a hole 3/8" deep beyond the tenon. The exact depth of this hole is not an absolute, this hole is merely the area where the ground pepper will exit the mill and also forms the inner diameter of the eventual base upon which the mill will rest. Use a small rule to measure the depth. Remember the depth is measured beyond the tenon!
You've now completed the first step in the drilling schedule. Remove the 1 5/8" bit and chuck the 1 1/16" bit and again move the bit into position. Turn on the lathe and drilling in the same manner, bore a hole 5/8" deep beyond the previous hole. This hole or recess will house the actual grinding mechanism and it's depth should be as near exact as possible. Step two of the drilling schedule is complete and you're on your way to deep drilling now.
Remove the 1 1/16" bit and chuck the 1" forstner and again move the bit into position. This is where slow, shallow bites with the bit and constant clearing of chips and shavings is critical. You'll be drilling through the remainder of the blank to and through the other end. Failure to clear the debris will very possibly, in fact probably, result in the bit becoming lodged deep in the blank. If this occurs removal can be difficult, often requiring that both blank and bit be removed from the lathe and then the application of quite a bit of brute force in the manner of grabbing, twisting and turning. So, a word to the wise, short bites and clear the debris often!
The purpose of this 1" diameter hole through the length of the mill is twofold. First, this hole provides a passage for the drive rod that connects the cap which the user twists to grind pepper, to the actual grinding mechanism in the bottom of the base. It also provides a reservoir for the whole pepper. The hole can be bored through in one of two ways. The first option and the one that I most often choose is the use of a bit extension. This is nothing more than a length of rod with a recess in the end and an allen screw. The forstner bit fits into the recess and is held in place with the allen screw. This effectively extends the length of the bit and enables it to reach through all but the longest blanks. These extensions are available in various lengths, through wood turning supply houses, hardware stores and home improvement centers.
A second method to drill through the blank is to drill approximately half the length from the base end. Remove the blank from the chuck, reverse it by chucking the base end tenon and then drilling the remainder from the top end. The holes will meet and should be dead on, but even if they aren't it's not important, we've already discussed the purpose for this hole and having that in mind, along with the fact that the hole will never be seen or inspected, perfection just doesn't matter.
I use the former method drilling through the blank, however if you have a small lathe, a lathe that's a bit underpowered or don't have a bit extension, the latter is perfectly acceptable. The important thing is to form a hole the length of the blank, how you arrive at that is moot. In fact, some turners hollow through without the use of a bit. Those are the options, you make the choice.
So, we've bored a succession of holes, 1 5/8" followed by 1 1/16" followed by 1". The drilling sequence for the base section is complete. Remove the base from the chuck and set aside.
Now it's time to work on the blank which will become the cap. Chuck this blank onto the lathe using the tenon on what will be the top of the cap. At the base your looking at the short tenon where you sawed or otherwise separated the cap and base sections earlier. Now for a short bit of turning.....followed by more drill work. Increase your speed setting for that which is appropriate for spindle turning and form a tenon on the base that is between 1/2" and 3/4" long and of a diameter which will permit it to fit somewhat snuggly into the 1" hole in the top of the base section, the hole that you just finished boring through the blank. You'll want a tenon that will permit the cap to turn freely in the base, but is not too sloppy. However, if you just had to choose between too tight and too loose, loose would win. Remember someone will be turning this cap to grind pepper, you don't want their knuckles to turn white while doing so!
I use a parting tool coming into the tenon at 90 degrees to achieve the correct diameter of the tenon. Initially I only turn a very small portion at the end of the tenon and I stop the lathe quite often to check the fit of the tenon to the 1" opening in the base section. The reason for turning just the end of the tenon??...If I turn it too small I haven't lost the entire tenon, just that portion which I've turned. Once I achieve the correct diameter I turn the remainder of the tenon to this diameter and again check to insure proper fit. Once your satisfied, put down the turning tool, it's time to drill again!
Place the 7/8" forstner bit into the jacobs chuck and, just like with drilling the base, move the point up to the base. You're going to dill a very short recess into the tenon, only about 1/8" or so in depth. The purpose of this recess is to center and house a portion of the mechanism which I call, for want of a better term, the drive plate This drive plate is round and has a square hole in its center which captures the drive rod and turns it when the user turns the cap, this in turn operates the grinding mechanism way down in the base. Now, you'll find that this drive plate is a tad larger than the 7/8" forstner bit, just a hair. Use your parting tool and open the drilled recess just a very small amount to accept the plate. Just take off a very small amount and stop the lathe and check the fit, turn until it fits snug. There will be very little wood remaining around the drive plate. That's fine, the purpose of this is to center the drive plate on the tenon, the remaining wood serves no other purpose.
Okay, one more step in the drill schedule and that's it! Remove the forstner bit and chuck a 9/32" or 17/64" twist or brad point bit. You're going to bore a hole completely through the cap, from the tenon through the top. The purpose of this hole is to provide a passage to the drive rod to the top of the cap where the threaded metal cap will attach and control the size of the grind.
You'll find that the manufacturer and sellers of the grind mechanisms often include directions with the product and call for a 1/4" hole. My experience has taught me that this is just a bit too narrow. Lets keep in mind we're working with wood and dry it may be, it'll change with humidity and therefore will move. If you happen to turn a rather long cap and only provide a 1/4" hole, though which the rod will travel and the rod is only a minuscule amount smaller than the 1/4" hole, the rod may bind. If that happens, the cap won't turn or at best will be very difficult to turn and the user may not be able to remove the cap to fill the reservoir with pepper, the user will be quite upset with you and this work of art that you've made. So, bore the hole a 1/64" or 1/32" larger, I use a 17/64". This sequence is very straight forward, just bore the hole until you come out the other end. Again, take small bites and clear the debris, Also, take care not to impact the chuck with the drill bit when you exit the wood! This applies when turning the 1" hole through the base as well. Just take your time and you'll avoid this bit destroying occurrence. A hint....when the bit breaks out of the end of the wood, you'll see a small amount of sawdust "erupt" from around the wood and chuck....you're through!
That's the end of the drilling, honest! It sounds like a lot and sounds as though it's involved, it's not. Three different bits for the base and two for the cap.
Okay, drilling is complete and now we can turn.
As mentioned before, turning a peppermill is straightforward spindle turning. You're finished mill can be as simple as you like or covered with embellishments and surface treatments. You can turn beads and coves, add various elements such as copper, brass, aluminum and powdered and ground minerals, as well as complimentary or contrasting wood all contained within turned rebates and dadoes. The only limit is your imagination.
To be con't.