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How to use the One way easy coring system.

Discussion in 'Woodturning Discussion Forum' started by Breck Whitworth, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. James Seyfried

    James Seyfried

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    Like they say, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I don't have that much experience coring, but I made these boards that help me visualize where the bottom will be and how thick the base of the bowl will be. I have found that I would rather start with the biggest bowl and make sure I have that one right. Then work down to the smallest one.
    IMG_1748.jpg
    coring736.jpg
    I have also found if the blank is deep enough, you can get two large bowls by starting on the outside.
    oscore7.jpg
    If I had planned the shape better, (straighter the first inch or so) it would have worked out better. The two biggest would be closer to the same size.
     
  2. RichColvin

    RichColvin

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    Jim,

    Do you use the safety cage on your PowerMatic all the time, or only when tackling roughing an exteriors?

    Rich
     
  3. Breck Whitworth

    Breck Whitworth

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    James I really like what you do because it is a visual thing which I like. To me the money bowl is the most important always. I think I will incorporate your board method along with what I have already learned. Thanks for your post. I took a few pictures of how I decided to store my easy core system thanks to what I learned from the other guys who posted. Maybe they will help someone else.
     

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  4. James Seyfried

    James Seyfried

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    Usually it just holds the dust collection unit. I leave it on the lathe unless it is necessary to have it removed. That way it is easy to use if I think I should, as you mentioned for roughing some pieces. As pictured I did use it for coring that large Cherry crotch blank, because of inclusions or questionable wood where the limbs joined and my inexperience coring.

    I need to clean it and paint it black as was suggested by someone to make it less visible in use.
     
  5. Owen Lowe

    Owen Lowe

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    Glenn,
    If the base stays at the same position, then yes, the next larger knife will reach the difference of the radii deeper. The knives are segments of a circle, that’s the only way you can have a stationary pivot point for them — like the Woodfast tailstock coring setup but unlike the McNaughton system.

    I do not own the smallest #1 knife, but here are the approximate radii of my #2, 3, and 4. I don’t know how consistent the measure is between other #2s, 3s, or 4s and my measure is a best-eyeballed to the center of the post attachment point. Lastly the measure is to the “outside” of the 3/8” wide cutter.

    #2: very close to 6-1/4”
    #3: very close to 7-3/8”
    #4: very close to 8-7/16"
     
  6. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

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    Thank you so much. This explains everything. :)
     
  7. John Spitters

    John Spitters

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    Owen, when I measured mine I got 6 1/4”, 7 1/4” and 8 1/2”, but as you say it is a best guess and I could have been off by 1/8” on the #3 knife.
     
  8. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

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    So can we assume knife #1 is 5 1/8
     
  9. Owen Lowe

    Owen Lowe

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    Yeah, I don’t know the setup at Oneway when they weld up these things for how consistent they are. In my view, it really doesn’t matter all that much. These are roughing tools where an eighth here or there isn’t going to make a difference.

    I really don’t know, but it would fit the general pattern. Any #1 knife owners out there willing to measure?
     
  10. John Spitters

    John Spitters

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  11. Steve Doerr

    Steve Doerr

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    Breck,
    Here are some pictures of a proto-type laser guide that I am making for my Oneway Coring System. I can’t take credit for it as I saw it somewhere else, but don’t remember where. Right now I have a wood dowel that I sized to fit the shaft for the coring tool. I then got a piece of PVC pipe to slide over the dowel. Drilled a hole in that pipe and used a smaller piece of PVC pipe to hold the laser. I hold the horizontal PVC in place with a screw. I have drilled screw holes in the horizontal PVC to match the radius of each of the coring tools. I found that you can get a pretty good laser at Petsmart, a lot cheaper than Radio Shack or some of these other electronic places. Petsmart sells the laser as a cat toy.

    What I like about this setup is that it allows you to trace out the location of the actual cutter head on the outside of the bowl. This then allows you to move the center of your coring tool further back on the center line of the bowl or slightly to the right of left of the centerline and know exactly how deep your cut will be.

    With this laser guide, my hope is that I will be able eventually be able to do more of a multi-bowl set of nested bowls with the Oneway Coring System.

    Steve
     

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    Last edited: Jan 1, 2018
  12. Dave Fritz

    Dave Fritz

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  13. Colin Nelson

    Colin Nelson

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    This is an informative thread...and wow, y'all have some nice lathes! I work my Central Machinery lathe from HF to death, lol...probably wont invest in coring knives until I upgrade. I learned about these knives by looking into how nesting dolls are made. For general bowl making, Coring systems seem like they'd be the status quo...literally making 2-4x the bowls out of the same piece.
     
  14. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    The blades on all coring systems have to be circular ... otherwise they wouldn't be able to advance very far without binding in the kerf. The main differences in the McNaughton system are that the center of rotation isn't rigidly fixed which allows the kerf to be widened to change the shape of the core. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage.
     
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  15. Peter L'Italien

    Peter L'Italien

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    Breck
    Here are some pics on how I choose to store my oneway coring jig I made a box that sits on supports brackets on legs sloped top of box so shavings will slide off I figured I added a hundred pounds to lathe which can't hurt I also use the same set up for coring as Jim In the craft supplies catalog it has a chart on size of blanks and depth that cutters will go
     

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  16. RichColvin

    RichColvin

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    Peter,

    That's really nice. I've thought of doing something like that.

    Rich
     
  17. Glenn Lefley

    Glenn Lefley

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    This is oneway coring related.

    If one is always turning kiln dried Burl rounds, 12 to 10 round 3 to 4 inch thick, would a coring system be of help or worth while? These rounds are expensive! I hate wasting wood.
     
  18. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    If you are turning shallow bowls it is not too much of learning curve to make 2 or 3 core cuts Those blanks.
    2 core cuts would yeild 2 bowls with 3/4” walls and the inside core.
    Burls tend to be easy to core since there is no end grain to fight through.

    As your technique matures your kerfs will be narrower and you will be able to core thinner walled bowls.
    4 bowls with 3/8-1/2” thick walls
    6 bowls with 1/4” walls
    If you get really really good then 12+ Bowls with 1/8” walls are possible.

    I think the McNaughton works better for shallow bowls
     
  19. Grant Wilkinson

    Grant Wilkinson

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  20. John Turpin

    John Turpin

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    My Easy Core system arrived last week and I haven't used it yet. But, I have gone through the confusing process of figuring out how to store it. Believe me, it's harder than it looks. The base tucks away behind that cedar panel.

    Easy Core Storage sm.jpg
     
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