odie
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John.......
OK, I'll play around with it......I'm pretty much riding the "learning curve" on this tool right now........
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Hunter Carbide Hollowing Tools
- Thread starter John King
- Start date
John.......
OK, I'll play around with it......I'm pretty much riding the "learning curve" on this tool right now........
OOC
Odie
Email Mike Hunter if you have any questions. He responds very quickly and is a real nice guy. I have his personal email - pm me if you want it.
Also if anyone is interested in the #5 - he said it shipped to Woodcraft's last week and will soon be on the website.
Robert
Email Mike Hunter if you have any questions. He responds very quickly and is a real nice guy. I have his personal email - pm me if you want it.
Also if anyone is interested in the #5 - he said it shipped to Woodcraft's last week and will soon be on the website.
Robert
odie
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Hey, thanks for the offer, Wipedout.......
I think I learned quite a bit about the Hunter's capabilities yesterday......certainly not everything there is to know, but a great start at it. What I really need is some serious "stick time" with it........
I put quite a few hours in my shop on a weekly basis, so I'm probably going to make a real "dent" in the learning process......quick!Will keep that in mind, though......
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odie
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I've been testing the Hunter #4 tool again this afternoon and evening on another piece of hard maple.....this time, some Ambrosia maple.......
.....and have come to a few preliminary conclusions about it:
#1. John Lucas is absolutely right about using the bevel. This produces the best cut, but as with the Ellsworth grind, it's fairly limited as to how much inside, or concave curvature it will be effective with. As most of you know, convex curves are not as difficult to negotiate. If the bevel on the Hunter can't be used, it will be necessary to use the Hunter with a light shear-scraping cut.....but, this doesn't produce the finest overall cut.....certainly a good usable finish cut, but not as good as either the Hunter rubbing the bevel, or a properly honed Ellsworth grind on a gouge (also rubbing the bevel).
#2. When used with a shear scraping cut, the Hunter tool produces a more aggressive cut than a regular scraper, but it doesn't appear to produce a better, or cleaner cut than using a regular scraper with very light shear scraping cuts. The Hunter appears to be a bit faster cutting than a scraper, but does not produce a cleaner cut......regarding fineness of the cut, one is about equal to the other. With the Hunter, more material can be removed in a single pass without sacrificing quality of the cut. Of course, scrapers will have to be continually re-dressed in order to keep that burr nice and sharp.....the Hunter does not.
#3. It looks like I've been using nearly 180 degrees of the leading edge on the Hunter carbide surface. This means that, realistically, the insert can only be turned a single time to renew the cutting surface. At this point, I have no idea how long the Hunter carbide insert will maintain a sharp cutting edge, but it ought to last far longer than my initial testing would indicate.......since, I believe, the best use for it is to only bring it into play when final prepping the surface for sanding. Prior to that, and because the quality of the surface isn't AS important while shaping the bowl, my usual tools and methods will suffice......that is, until such time as I need a pre-shaped surface that requires little sanding.
I am experienced with bowl gouges and scrapers on the lathe......but, have little experience with the Hunter tool. My conclusions may, or may not hold the same validity for me, once I get a little more hands-on time with it, so it would be important to note that I'm still pretty much in an experimental mode....
Thanks to all......and, any further contributions to this thread will be appreciated.....
otis of cologne
.....and have come to a few preliminary conclusions about it:
#1. John Lucas is absolutely right about using the bevel. This produces the best cut, but as with the Ellsworth grind, it's fairly limited as to how much inside, or concave curvature it will be effective with. As most of you know, convex curves are not as difficult to negotiate. If the bevel on the Hunter can't be used, it will be necessary to use the Hunter with a light shear-scraping cut.....but, this doesn't produce the finest overall cut.....certainly a good usable finish cut, but not as good as either the Hunter rubbing the bevel, or a properly honed Ellsworth grind on a gouge (also rubbing the bevel).
#2. When used with a shear scraping cut, the Hunter tool produces a more aggressive cut than a regular scraper, but it doesn't appear to produce a better, or cleaner cut than using a regular scraper with very light shear scraping cuts. The Hunter appears to be a bit faster cutting than a scraper, but does not produce a cleaner cut......regarding fineness of the cut, one is about equal to the other. With the Hunter, more material can be removed in a single pass without sacrificing quality of the cut. Of course, scrapers will have to be continually re-dressed in order to keep that burr nice and sharp.....the Hunter does not.
#3. It looks like I've been using nearly 180 degrees of the leading edge on the Hunter carbide surface. This means that, realistically, the insert can only be turned a single time to renew the cutting surface. At this point, I have no idea how long the Hunter carbide insert will maintain a sharp cutting edge, but it ought to last far longer than my initial testing would indicate.......since, I believe, the best use for it is to only bring it into play when final prepping the surface for sanding. Prior to that, and because the quality of the surface isn't AS important while shaping the bowl, my usual tools and methods will suffice......that is, until such time as I need a pre-shaped surface that requires little sanding.
I am experienced with bowl gouges and scrapers on the lathe......but, have little experience with the Hunter tool. My conclusions may, or may not hold the same validity for me, once I get a little more hands-on time with it, so it would be important to note that I'm still pretty much in an experimental mode....
Thanks to all......and, any further contributions to this thread will be appreciated.....
otis of cologne
Last edited:
odie
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I've turned my Hunter carbide insert today. I wasn't really sure if a fresh cutting edge would help, because the edge did feel sharp to the touch.......but it definitely did help! I was using it as a shear scraper for finish surface cuts on an Ash bowl.....rotated the carbide insert.....and went right back to the same bowl. There is no question that by applying a new cutting edge, the quality of the cut improved.
It was time to rotate the cutting edge, and I estimate I got about ten or twelve bowls done since initial purchase. The Hunter tool hasn't replaced a good scraper in the "shear scrape" mode, but it's been a very useful tool all together.
I wish the carbide inserts were a little cheaper, because I'd probably use the Hunter for more tasks if it weren't for that.
I've decided to not use the Hunter for tasks that are appropriate for gouge work or traditional scraping, but to use this tool strictly for a final finish cut, or that which suits a shear scrape mode.
Would I buy the Hunter again? I'd hesitate a little but probably would. This tool is nice to have, but there really isn't anything the Hunter can do that traditional gouges and scrapers can't do. The one redeeming feature is the cutting edge lasts much longer than traditional tools......a convenience item.
This is a learning experience I'm glad I have under my belt, though!
otis of cologne
It was time to rotate the cutting edge, and I estimate I got about ten or twelve bowls done since initial purchase. The Hunter tool hasn't replaced a good scraper in the "shear scrape" mode, but it's been a very useful tool all together.
I wish the carbide inserts were a little cheaper, because I'd probably use the Hunter for more tasks if it weren't for that.
I've decided to not use the Hunter for tasks that are appropriate for gouge work or traditional scraping, but to use this tool strictly for a final finish cut, or that which suits a shear scrape mode.
Would I buy the Hunter again? I'd hesitate a little but probably would. This tool is nice to have, but there really isn't anything the Hunter can do that traditional gouges and scrapers can't do. The one redeeming feature is the cutting edge lasts much longer than traditional tools......a convenience item.
This is a learning experience I'm glad I have under my belt, though!
otis of cologne