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lathe maintenance

Joined
Sep 27, 2017
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Location
Windsor, Pennsylvania
When i got my lathe, a lowly HF 12 x 33, I cleaned the oil off the ways so any wood that touches it will not be stained. But what do I treat it with to prevent rust? Should I also treat the underside of the banjo, tail stock, etc.?

I also have an old lathe that was stored in a garden shed and the ways are a bit rusted. What do I to bring back that smooth finish, and do I treat that with something like paste wax also? I thought about a block of wood and fine abrasive, to just knock off the high parts of the rust, then treat it despite the brown color and fine pits.
 

hockenbery

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Lakeland, Florida
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I use Ballistol.
I get mine from Don Geiger.
I coat the ways, underside of the banjo and tailstock by sliding them over the ways.
Also,squirt a little on the tailstock ram and the rod inside the banjo.

I coat at the end of the day after turning a lot of wet wood
Also about once a week when not turning a lot of wet wood.

For rust balistoll and a 400 sand paper on a flat board will smooth the surface.

I have used past wax and it work well. The balistol is quicker and lasts about as long.
I hate the smell of balistol so it is applied when leaving the shop
Like the smell of WD 40 so in the rare event anything need lubrication while I’m working I use it.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 1, 2015
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Location
Sitka, Alaska, United States
Website
www.zachlaperriere.com
My lathe permanently lives outside, so it sees some moisture here in Alaska. Like Al, I spray the bed and other parts and the end of the day. By morning the smell is about 3/4 gone. I just wipe down any extra with newsprint in the morning. For serious moisture and removing rust, Kroil is my current favorite. It smells like a combination of a drunk and a petrochemical plant, but works like a champ.
 

Bill Boehme

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Jan 27, 2005
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Dalworthington Gardens, TX
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pbase.com
I have used Aero Kroil* (in orange spray can) ever since the days when I was an aircraft owner. It might be the same thing that you are using, Zach. My only complaint about it seems that every can I get leaks around the spray button so I get the stuff all over my hands (and then I smell like a drunk at a petrochemical plant).


*Aero Kroil has a peculiar smell and seems to be good for solving just about any mechanical problem like stuck pulleys, frozen hinges, corroded bolts,and it's good for displacing moisture. Moisture is a problem when you've been flying at high altitude where it's really cold and then you descend into warmer moist air.
 

john lucas

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Apr 26, 2004
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Cookeville, TN
On my wood lathe I just spray the bed with WD-40 and then wipe it down. I use that same rag then to wipe down the bottom of my banjo and the inside cam. The hit the tool rest tops. I do this a lot. I used to use Johnson's paste wax which is what i use on all my other machines but eh WD-40 is faster to apply and seems to keep the rust from green turnings down really well.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Location
Cleveland, Tennessee
I lightly polished the bed and the bottoms of the banjo and tailstock with 600 wet/dry sandpaper. Wiped off all the dust and applied a thin coat of Ballistol Sportsman's Oil. Made sure it was a thin coat to keep sawdust and shavings from collecting. Plan on checking it periodically, cleaning and reapplying if needed.
WD-40- Read that the WD stands for water displacing. BTW, it is said that it contains fish oil. Not true according to the manufacturer.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Depends on where the fish come from. Are you aware that the Cuyahoga River in Cleveland, OH, caught fire several times in the early 50s? You could walk on the sludge from Ohio to Ontario and never get your feet wet.
 
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
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Location
Delray Beach, FL
After cleaning and drying I have used a Teflon spray on sliding surfaces. The carrier evaporates and leaves a dry film on the surface. It is good as it can get in hard to reach places that you can't get wax to.

See:
https://jet.com/product/detail/b2ac...MImKL9xrfO2AIVkIizCh2gkwfDEAQYAyABEgJ83vD_BwE

I got it in the box stores.

It is also good for locks and other small mechanisms that you want to slide. if you get it where you don't want it to slide then you must use the antidote, duck tape.

Stu
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
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Location
Lummi Island, WA
thanks a lot one and all - after reading this thread I decided it was finally time to do some lathe maintenance chores I’d been putting off for longer than I should. Everything went smoothly until I went to clean and reassemble the tailstock quill and discovered that the key for the handle had gone missing.
Ordinarily, this would be a look around on the floor, a moment of joy on seeing the shiney surface down where no man has tread for a while, but no joy. I need to point out that the area around the lathe has the guts from several large madrone bowls piled generously about. After spending the better part of an hour and a half going through shavings by hand and magnet, still no joy.
In short, I wound up cleaning out the whole shop - a chore long overdue. The missing keyway was filled with an old HSS hollowing cutter ground down to fit.
Thanks to this thread I’ve now got a cleaner, better organized space to mess up...
 
Joined
Jul 17, 2010
Messages
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Location
Waco, TX
Another vote for Johnson's. red scotch brite and WD-40 for the oh no's. To free rusted items I like mouse milk.....Bill may know what I'm talking about.
 
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