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Lathe question

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Hi I'm new here. I have a question. Now, I'm not asking the old which tool should I buy question, but I am looking for opinions. I'm in the market for a new lathe. I'm looking at the Vicmarc VL300 and the Poolwood Euro 2000. Recently I've been looking at the Powermatic 3520a. Which brings me to myu question and search for opinions: is there one or more good reasons why someone should pay in the neighborhood of $2,300.00 more, or in otherwords twice as much, for the Vic or Poolwood than the Powermatic? I realize that the Powermatic is now made in China, but are the others worth twice as much money and if in your opinion they are, then why? Thanks for your time.
 
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The Powermatic is, so far as I can figure, made in Taiwan, not China. I suggest you be suspicious of anything coming out of mainland China. That said, The level of quality out of some Taiwan factories is pretty good. In certain cases Taiwan-quality exceeds made-in-USA quality. In these cases, however, the prices are usually not cheaper and may be significantly higher. Using good materials and producing high-precision parts costs pretty much the same anywhere. Labor is cheaper in Taiwan, but this is not a big factor when most of the critical parts are made on a CNC-machine (a must to assure precision). Whatever they save in low cost labor is all lost in shipping. So, to be competitive, the Taiwanese had to improve the quality. In wood lathes, the Taiwan machines top-out with the Powermatics or the Jet 1642VS, which I own. In my opinion, the Jet was (spec-for-spec) a better quality machine than the VS Delta.

So that brings you to the Powermatic vs. the rest. I looked at Vimarc, Stubby and other lathes at the AAW conference in Pasadena last year. The finish on those machines is definitely better. The Powermatic may have some design advantages for the money, such as factory integrated electronics and lots of cast iron. So at that level, it’s kind of like: Should I spend $100,000 on the Porsche or $250,000 on a Ferrari?

I say you can’t go wrong. If you got it, spend it. If you can afford the Ferrari, buy the Ferrari. If the Porsche is it, you’ll be happy with the Porsche. Just don’t buy a Yugo.

I own a great lathe and I am very happy with it. Sure, it would be nice to have an even more expensive one, if for no other reason than to have all my friends at the next AAW conference go “Oooh†when I tell them what lathe I own.

BH
 
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Mark,

I agree with Bob. If you get a Stubby 750, Powermatic 3520A, Vicmarc VL300, or Oneway 2436 then you have made a good choice and you will have a good machine. I'm not sure that many of us would admit it, but a lot of us like owning good machinery. "Good enough" just doesn't hack it. A car that gets you there is just not the same as driving a sportscar on a winding road. While these lathes are more or less equivalent, they have different strengths. You can get excellent deals on the Powermatic. Get a quote from www.toolnut.com or check out the Osolnik machinery website. A year ago Toolnut quoted me a delivered price of $2275 for the 3520A. I think the Osolnik price is about $2500. This lathe doesn't have as large a swing as the others, but if money is your main concern, then the Powermatic is your best choice.

I have the small Oneway, the 1018, and for my work it is the best choice. So, I like Oneway. But, if I get to the point where a large lathe is needed and the finances are okay, then I will probably choose the Vicmarc VL300 with the 3HP motor. I have checked with a lot of name turners and for some reason this lathe seems to get a little more support than any other of those mentioned. They are good, solid, and reliable lathes.

I also have the small Stubby, the 500, and like it for small bowls. If space is a concern for you, then the Stubby 750 would be an excellent choice. If long spindles are important to your work, choose something else.

If you have friends who have these lathes, ask to visit them to check out the lathes. There is an 80% chance that they will say, "Here, try it."

Enjoy the ride,
 

hockenbery

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Like Bob’s answer, buying a lathe is a lot like buying a car except used ones are harder to come by and the better new ones cost more than the first new car I bought.

The decisions are best made after a test drive. Would you buy a car from a catalog?
Hook up with a local club. The three lathes you mentioned are owned by different members of our club who would be more than happy to invite a new turner to their shop. If you can get to the AAW symposium you can see and maybe turn a bit on the different lathes. Take a class where they have different machines or at least the one you think you want to buy.

First make a list of features you must have and those you would like to have.

Start with size :
16, 20, 24 swing and bed length
Height of the centers
Footprint of the machine

Then the motor and controls:
HP
Speed ranges
Reverse
Movable switch, Remote switch (you want the switch where you are working)
Noise limits

Locking levers and locking mechanisms:
Do the tailstock and tool rest creep?
Adjustable lever positions
Any levers that restrict your movement

Tailstock and tool rest movement
can you easily move them with one hand.

Then other features:
Boring through the tailstock
Hole through the headstock spindle
tailstock ram travel
spindle lock positions
index wheel
Weight of tailstock
.......

happy turning,
Al
 
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john lucas

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I am quite happy with my Powermatic 3520. The Vicmarc 300 may be a better lathe but that depends a lot on how much money. Personally I love the sliding head and think that makes the powermatic a really versatile lathe.
 
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I agree with most of the opinions already expressed. I have a PowerMatic 3520 and am real happy with it, and have basically put about 1,000 hours into it resulting in 400 pieces, mostly just rough turned. (Okay so I'm not real fast).

From a design standpoint they did a decent job. However, a lot of little flaws get tiresome when you put a lot of time into the lathe. Would have been nice to have the following options:

1) 3HP motor - I turn some biguns sometimes and this would help keep it from stalling when roughing them. The 2HP is a fine motor and smooth as heck but I would have paid for a 3HP upgrade.

2) Built-in vacuum port into the headstock. I made my own vacuum setup and it works fine, but built-in is often better.

3) One or more index wheels that can be attached on the outboard side. I made my own (see my picture gallery). I wanted the room to get around on the inboard side so an index wheel on the inboard side didn't work for me. Rube Goldberg would be proud...but it works.

4) Minor design flaw - lack of hands free spindle lock. Some folks have posted how to resolve it, but for the price it should be part of the base lathe. With the base lathe and no modifications you have to hold a finger on the spring loaded lock button. Pretty lame.

5) Minor design flaw - the camlocks on the tailstock and headstock take some muscle to lock if you have a polished lathebed. Maybe the higher end models have better design here. Next time I turn some wet oak, I'm just going to let the crust sit on the bed so it will lock easier :)

6) Minor flaw - toolrest cam lock has a lever that is too short. Maybe this is better on high end models. I modified mine with a longer custom shaft, and 200 hours later I sheared the bolt. ...one of my biggest gripes about the lathe.

7) Option to add-on an extension so you can do large pieces (>20"). This could be setup so you slide the headstock to the end, and the extension would hold the harp so you could turn 30" pieces etc. Not that hard to design, would maybe cost $200-$300 retail.

8) The tailstock weighs about 50 pounds. It's manageable, but you don't want to take it off every hour or so :)

If you get the 3520, I would recommend ordering the bed extension. About $120-$150. I never used mine but someday I will want it, and it doesn't take much space to store it.

Just a lot of my opinions for what they are worth. And if you get down to it, I'm a pretty happy 3520 owner!! It's a great lathe. You should also look back in this forum about a month or so, the 3520 was discussed.
 
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Jeff, I too am a happy Powermatic 3520 owner. I think it is the best value on the market by a longshot. However, you point out some excellent points as to improvements. The most important one is the 3 horse motor. How much fun would that be? The newer models have the hole in the tailstock. I would love to have a real RPM display so that I wasn't looking on the back to translate. But I have serial # 0003! The first went to Rude, the second to Willard, and the third was supposed to go to Nick Cook. I don't know how but it wound up in a shop in N. Ga. Willard helped me find it and buy it. I love my PM although there are a bunch of fine lathes out there. The key is not the lathe...it's the time you spend on it.
David Galloway
 
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Thanks

It sounds like I won't be making a mistake if I go with the PM3520 and after long thought that's what I'm going to do. The nearly $3,000 that I'll save can be used more appropriately....ha just ask my wife. Thank you for all of the input.
 
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Jet 1642 inverters

I am thinking about buying the Jet 1642 as I the sliding headstock and the weight of the machine. But, I am concerned about the cost of a replacement inverter as it probably will need to be replaced one day. There is not much info on-line about the inverters and their replacements. I have not called Jet yet.

Would appreciate any help,Thanks

Jay Richins
 
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it's worth what you paid for it.

Decide the type of turning that you are interested in doing. If you are looking for a good all round work horse of a lathe, then the PM 3520b is the best bang for your buck. If you don't have much bang then the 2hp Jet 1640 is a good choice also. If you are looking for a lathe that has the most versatility and from a company who's service that is above and beyond, then mortgage the house , children's education, and your retirement for a Oneway 2440. Also, you will probably also need a forklift or other such devise to get the blank on it.

Personally, I stayed with a mustard monster than going down the great white way. My bang was only so big.

I like the car analogy. There are a few core requirements that must be met for our needs. The rest are options and styling.

Aaron
 

john lucas

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I've been following the inverters for years. They are wonderful gadgets but I was afraid to get one on a lathe because of the replacement cost and how long they might last. Well I finally decided to go with the Powermatic of course. The inverters seem to last very well. I've only heard of a few failures or malfunctioning units and I've heard the same things with other brands. On the plus side they aren't that expensive to replace if they do go bad. Not cheap of course but pretty reasonable considering what they are.
I'm a little more leary of the Poolewood and Nova DVR .
The VFD's on the powermatics and Oneways which can be replaced by aftermarket brands if necessary. The motors could also be replaced by aftermarket units. If you had a problem with the motor on the Poolewood or Nova you would have to go back to the company. What if they discontinue that lathe. Almost all lathe manufacturers in the last 10 years have changed their lathes.
 

KEW

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7) Option to add-on an extension so you can do large pieces (>20"). This could be setup so you slide the headstock to the end, and the extension would hold the harp so you could turn 30" pieces etc. Not that hard to design, would maybe cost $200-$300 retail.

Jeff,
I know you know the PM very well, but don't they make such an option? You have the bed extension, all you need is the toolrest extension!

http://www.osolnikmachinery.com/6294727b-18extensionbedformodel3520bwithtoolrestextension.aspx

My lathe has an extra set of holes located below the ones for extending the existing bed. Of course, you can not use the tailstock when the bed is mounted for the increased swing.
 

john lucas

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The 3520b does take a bed extension and the bed extension can be move lower on the legs to give more swing. You do need the banjo extension to get the tool rest back up to the proper height. I'm still looking at modifying or buying a new leg for my 3520A so I can do that. I've tried free standing tool rests and you just don't get the rigidity of a tool rest that's bolted to the lathe.
I think this gives you an extremely versatile lathe for the money.
 
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John - Before buying a new leg, why don't you try drilling and tapping your existing leg to take the extension? If it doesn't work you won't have lost anything except some time.

Ed
 

RPE

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3520 Where to buy....

I got my 3520 from ToolNut. He will beat any price on any brick and mortar store. Look him up and he will send you a quote or call him. Shipping is part of the price.

RP
 
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My problem with the powermatic is that it really offers little advantage over the 2hp jet 1642. It has the same sliding head, so the difference in swing isn't that important. Now if you were talking about the Powermatic 4224 it would be different, but in the 2hp range I think the Jet is the better deal. The 3520 is beefier, but I like being able to manhandle the 1642 with out a major rupture. Of course, there's no reason not to be happy with the 3520, but I picked up a couple of oneway chucks and some jaws for the difference in price.

Marc

I am quite happy with my Powermatic 3520. The Vicmarc 300 may be a better lathe but that depends a lot on how much money. Personally I love the sliding head and think that makes the powermatic a really versatile lathe.
 

KEW

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Gretch,
Thanks - I had not notice the date and couldn't understand why Jeff wouldn't know about the extension!!! LOL

Mark,
I think your assessment of the Jet vs, PM is reasonable. If you typically expect to turn 14" and under, the Jet is a perfectly fine machine.
I think you can look at the Jet as a well built machine and the PM as overbuilt in the sense that it can stand up to greater abuse and the loads of the larger blanks.
 
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