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My first handle

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image.jpeg using 1 inch round nose scraper on 9 inch bowl and slight catch. Tore tool out of my hands, blew bowl off lathe broke light in behind lathe. Why do they supply tools with such small short handles. There actually dangerous. So made my first handle. Huge upgrade. Eyeing up all my other short handle tools now.
 

odie

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I've been cutting down the length of a few of my lathe tool handles, because I've needed less raw leverage to control my cuts than I did several decades ago. Of course, I'm limited to sizes less than 16", because that's the swing of my lathe. That would probably make some difference to those who turn very large bowls.

This is just an opinion on my part, Glenn.......but, when you get a more experienced controlled cut, you need less length of the handle to take full advantage of that control.

-----odie-----
 

Bill Boehme

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It's a fine looking handle, Glenn. When you make your own handles, you can make them to work best for you rather than just being a one size fits all generic handle.

Odie does make a good point that finesse beats brute force when it comes to making the cleanest and most precise cuts.
 
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I like dogwood for tool handles....also I like thicker tool handles....less hand fatigue....just my opinion......nice handle
 
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Glenn, I use scrapers more than most turners (bunch of bowl turning videos up on You Tube). First, I am curious as to why you had the catch. Inside or outside of the bowl? Inside, you want to be working/cutting slightly above center. Outside, you want to be cutting slightly below center. This allows the cutting edge to fall out of the cut if you get a catch. One frequent cause for catches with both gouges and scrapers is hanging too far out off the tool rest, and you just get over powered. The scraper you are using is not a very big one, so that makes me think that could be part of the reason. Getting too much cutting edge into the wood at one time can be another reason. Since that is a round nose scraper, and only one inch wide, that is not likely to be the cause.

One thing with the handle, I want the tang to be totally inside the wood, and you have a bit sticking out. That should be pounded in all the way, or drill a deeper hole. I do have a clip up on how I make handles for square tang tools where I make a sandwich type handle, 3 pieces of wood, with the center piece being the exact same size/thickness as the tool and cut out a square tang hole, and then glue on the 'bread' on the outside of that. Much better metal support.

If you ever get down Oregon way, stop on by..

robo hippy
 
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Glenn. I make my handles sandwich style like Robo. However the tools are made from old planer blades or the 5/8" square keysteel with 1/4" square inserts - having a seniors moment & can't remember the originators name!! I also made my handles 18" long lathe limit ) and almost 2" in diameter to make it easier on my arthrtic hands!! One of the 5/8" jobbies slips out of the handle to go to the grinder. Handy! Any relation to Fred in Comox?
 
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I do my square/rectangular tang handles a little different than Robo Hippie. He calls his a sandwich, mine is a slider. I take a ~ 1" square and route the slots. Then glue a end piece on so I can turn this round ( picture only shows one end cap glued, but both ends get one). I then cut the end caps off and glue this into the handle. Yes more trouble, but just never liked splitting the whol handle.

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I do my square/rectangular tang handles a little different than Robo Hippie. He calls his a sandwich, mine is a slider. I take a ~ 1" square and route the slots. Then glue a end piece on so I can turn this round ( picture only shows one end cap glued, but both ends get one). I then cut the end caps off and glue this into the handle. Yes more trouble, but just never liked splitting the whol handle.

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William. I would wonder if this makes the strongest handle at the ferrule.
 
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Not really sure what you mean. I maintain the correct wood thickness at the ferrule, I use titebond glue for the insert. Every thing I have glued with titebond the glue joint is stronger then the wood. The handle wood is not split, it is drilled the same as you would insert a round tool.

Give me more information as to your concern.
 
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