putting a Stabond order together

[Hu Lowery]

putting a Starbond order together

I am trying to put a Starbond order together. I think I want the EM-40, described as runs like water, for general thin CA use and to try to reinforce damaged blanks. There is one thinner standard CA Starbond offers but I have issues with the CA soaking into the wood more than desired even when I wipe a little BLO on the surface to try to prevent surface staining. When I turn away the surface I often find a discolored area about an eighth inch wide both sides of the crack.

The other use I want a CA glue for is attaching glue blocks when I don't want to wait on Titebond II to dry. Here I have two options, EM-600 described as syrupy and will fill an .008" gap. They also offer the KEG five hundred in a very similar consistency and gap filling ability according to the literature. It is listed as four times stronger, and flexible. The brag on it is shock absorbance, seems made to order for a glue block if it can be removed by any manner short of turning the block away. Even that wouldn't be that big of a deal.

I saw a title of a thread somewhere asking about the KEG glue but haven't been successful searching to find old threads. I don't know which site I saw that on but have tried searching three or four.

Thoughts on which higher viscosity glue to use? Which of these or neither, get something else. Same on the thin glue. I don't think I want the very thinnest stuff. It is for use with a .002 gap compared to a .004 gap fill with the slightly thicker stuff I am considering buying so there doesn't seem to be a vast difference. There is a four times stronger version of the super thin stuff too but I am concerned with controlling the application of the super thin glue, I mostly glue fingers and other annoying things together with very thin CA and don't have much success gluing anything that isn't a 100% perfect fit.

Thanks for your assistance! Hopefully a pretty simple thread this time.

Hu

 

[odie]

Howdy Hu.........

You should get the CA adhesives, and try all the consistencies out, as applied to your needs.

For myself, I've discontinued using CA, for the very reasons you mention concerning a very obvious discoloration of the wood. Sometimes it works out perfectly, but very unpredictable when it will work, and when it will not. It's been a few years since I've last used CA, so it's possible the newer compositions have seen some improvement in performance. Be sure to let us know your findings.

I'm one who has come to the conclusion that (for my purposes) it's best to just resolve myself to using Titebond and epoxy for crack, and gap filling......and deal with the drying time needed. For waste block installation, I've found that Titebond, under pressure, does do some discoloration, particularly on dark woods. There is a dark Titebond, but even there, if the color isn't a perfect match, there is the inevitable evidence of the glue penetrating the wood, because of the clamping necessary to do it.

I now install all of my waste blocks with Titebond, and deal with the occasional discoloration by removing some of the depth of the foot.

The best overall gap and crack filler is clear epoxy......but, there is always the extended time needed for drying. Since I always have several bowls in progress at any given time, it's not such a problem to switch gears and go on with another project.

Titebond can also be used as a filler, as long as nothing more than finger pressure is used to force the glue down into the interior of the crack. That way there isn't the clamping pressure that causes the glue to penetrate the wood beyond the crack itself. Titebond will shrink significantly when dry, so it may be necessary for repeated application to build it up to the desired level. The epoxy is better, in my opinion, though.

Both Epoxy and Titebond are sandable and not stained by finishing solutions......that I have experience with, anyway. My usual is Danish oil, so take that into consideration. When using epoxy for a gap filler, I usually apply enough that the epoxy is well above the surface of the wood itself. I use some cellophane tape to keep the epoxy minimal above the surface of the wood......that way, sanding is significantly reduced. After the epoxy is dried, the tape is removed, along with the excess epoxy. A 150gt disc is used (very carefully, and with a stationary bowl) to remove the excess down to the surface level of the wood......then continue sanding as usual.

Let us know your findings with your CA experiments.......

ooc

 

[Ian Thorn]

For a small crack in say a pen I sand to finish or nearly then us an Australian product called U beut EEE it has a wax binder like a cutting polish this seems to stop the bleeding of the CA just a thought

Ian

 

[Dave Bunge]

Hu, I use the thinnest grade of Starbond CA and haven't had trouble with staining. Starbond includes a very fine plastic nozzle that you attach to the tip of the CA bottle. This helps very much for placing the CA where you want it to go and avoiding of soaking the surface around the crack. You might get a bottle of the thinnest stuff, just to try. I think they are $5/2oz so not a hu(gh) investment.

 

[Fred Belknap]

I would get the thin CA. I sometimes use thin on a crack then fill any gap with a thicker CA. A little accelerator helps keep it in place. One place I use quite a bit of thin CA is stabilizing bark on a NE bowl. It will soak into the bark and make it much stronger. I put it on carefully and before I finish sanding, usually after 220 grit. If I get a spot on the wood I try to sand it out. You won't get it out 100% but when finished will be hard to see. I think the benefit outweigh the negative.

 

[CTutor]

CA Stain

When I am going to use CA , say to stabilize a bad area, I always always coat the area around it with lacquer or shellac first then apply the CA. No stain and because the area is usually turned away a bit I can use any of many finishes with no trouble.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Look at the sheets and see what the CPS rating is. Water is has a CPS of 1

 

[Hu Lowery]

Thanks!

Thanks for all of the replies!

I find the CPS ratings confusing since the numbers seem to not be in same sized units. A lot of difference between two and forty, only a minimal difference between five hundred and six hundred according to the write ups. I had intended to buy a couple of sixteen ounce bottles for maximum savings but with so many people endorsing the very thin stuff I think I am going with Odie's assortment idea. Gonna pretty much ask for one of each!

Odie,

I like epoxy but what happened with my last left me a little uncomfortable. It was getting old but seemed to perform the same as ever. Then in the course of a month or two it quit kicking at all. This was probably the best known brand of epoxy. Probably give it another shot soon but I'm going to give the KEG-500 a try for what I normally use epoxy for and see what happens. A very strong flexible superglue sounds like the cat's pajamas. Of course I have been a little less impressed with some things than the vendor was so as always seeing is believing. A minor surgery Monday so I may be awhile posting results.

Thanks to everyone. I much appreciate the posts. They made me alter my original plan, I do try to learn from the replies. There have been some obviously false rumors in the past that I can be a bit hard headed!

Hu

 

[Shawn Pachlhofer]

you might look at EZ Bond CA glues - they are sold in small to bulk sizes and are rated by CPS:

https://www.exoticblanks.com/index....rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=343&Itemid=60

no affiliation, just a happy customer.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Hu, I have purchased many 16 oz bottles of CA from Starbond. I always get it during the SWAT symposium. However, I have just about sworn off buying their product because of the quality of their 2 oz refill bottles that they provide with the 16 oz containers. The caps do not provide an adequate seal with the bottles and as a result glue leaks out between the cap and bottle threads, especially with the super thin CA. Because of this I have glued my hand to the bottle numerous times and also had CA dripping all over the piece that I am working on. I have tried making gaskets, but have not found anything satisfactory. I have discussed this with them, but they apparently do not see a problem with the bottles. I have also experienced bottles cracking while sitting on a shelf and the contents running out and ruining other things sitting on the shelf. If they had decent refill bottles or if I could find a source of suitable bottles, I would resume buying CA from them. I have found that the bottles used by other brands have caps that form a wedge lock with the bottle and something like that is necessary when using medium and thinner CA.

 

[Hu Lowery]

what brand are you using now please?

Hu, I have purchased many 16 oz bottles of CA from Starbond. I always get it during the SWAT symposium. However, I have just about sworn off buying their product because of the quality of their 2 oz refill bottles that they provide with the 16 oz containers. The caps do not provide an adequate seal with the bottles and as a result glue leaks out between the cap and bottle threads, especially with the super thin CA. Because of this I have glued my hand to the bottle numerous times and also had CA dripping all over the piece that I am working on. I have tried making gaskets, but have not found anything satisfactory. I have discussed this with them, but they apparently do not see a problem with the bottles. I have also experienced bottles cracking while sitting on a shelf and the contents running out and ruining other things sitting on the shelf. If they had decent refill bottles or if I could find a source of suitable bottles, I would resume buying CA from them. I have found that the bottles used by other brands have caps that form a wedge lock with the bottle and something like that is necessary when using medium and thinner CA.

Bill,

You just hit on something that might be an issue for me. I was going to buy all two ounce bottles this order and the glues that I didn't like for wood turning related things might sit around quite awhile until they get used up or go bad. Don't think I'll score any brownie points with some surprisingly understanding landladies and landlords if I superglue their ice box or deep freezer to whatever else is in them. Actually planned to double container the glues anyway but the point remains, I don't want bottles that won't seal glue in and moisture out. It is very damp around here much of the time.

Would make the Starbond bottles throwaways but I seem to remember extras are only sixty cents each, I remember being surprised at how cheap they were. Anyway, my thought, have you tried a bead of silicone around the neck of the bottle where it and the top meets to try to seal in the glue?


Looks like Exotic Blanks, the folks that sell EZBond would fix you up with bottles and caps. I haven't more than glanced at the site so no idea what the minimum order is or what else might come in handy.
https://www.exoticblanks.com/index....rt&page=shop.browse&category_id=346&Itemid=60

Shawn or anyone, where is the EZ Bond made please?

Thanks again everyone, I get mo-smarter every time I read the replies to any of my thread starters! It is great being able to take advantage of other people's knowledge and experience.

Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

The bottles that disintegrated were stored in a metal cabinet in my garage which was not air conditioned at the time (now it is) so the hot weather might possibly had something to do with it, but I also had other brands of CA stored in the garage that did not have a problem. The bottles from Starbond are somewhat thinner than the bottle of CA that I buy from places like Rockler's and Woodcraft. I have started saving the empty bottles of the other brands to refill with the Starbond CA. I have always stored my 16 oz bottles of CA in my garage refrigerator to extend the life and have found that CA will last indefinitely that way. My wife gave me some old Tupperware freezer containers that I now put the CA bottle in as an extra precaution. I also now keep the small bottles in the fridge.

I have tried to make all sorts of gaskets for the caps including nitrile O rings. The problem seems to be that the cap and bottle threads have a lot of free play and the top of the bottle neck isn't exactly flat.

If it wasn't for the refill bottles, I would say that Starbond is a good deal.

 

[Rob Wallace]

Storage in a mini-dessicator....

If you are storing your CA in the refrigerator to extend its life, it an easy thing to make a mini-dessicator which will seal out humid air, and keep the air around the bottles dry. CA cures by incorporating water molecules into its structure as it polymerizes, so keeping water away from the unused glue is important. Keeping the humidity low around the bottles will drastically increase the shelf life of the unused CA. (I recently have been writing an article on "Chemical Safety and the Woodturner", and stumbled upon this web page which you may find interesting: http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/10/stuff_eng_tech_ca_glue.htm )

To make a simple CA storage dessicator, I save the little packets of silica gel dessicant that you frequently get packed with different items (electronics, shoes, handbags, luggage, etc.) and re-charge them by baking them in an oven set at the lowest setting (about 150^F) or an hour or two. I then put them in a sealable Tupperware container in which I store my unused CA glue. I have another mini-dessicator near my lathe (made from a used Mason Jar with a one-piece gasketed lid) in which I hold my "active" CA bottle of "Thin" for quick hairline crack repairs while turning.

Thanks, Bill, for alerting us to the leaky bottles from Starbond. I have been purchasing Starbond at AAW Symposia since 2005, and have never gone the "bulk" route with the 16 oz. bottles, but we are considering to do so for our chapter as a group purchase. I'll talk to CPH International about this leaky bottle situation when I see them at their booth in Tampa.

Rob

 

[Hu Lowery]

The best laid plans of mice and Hu

I went down to the Bayou Woodturners club meeting today partially because they sell Starbond. Turns out they didn't have a full selection but did have the extra thin stuff and the medium thickness EM-600 I wanted to try. They had never even heard of the KEG series glues. These I bought are in the dreaded two ounce refill bottles so looks like I'll get to test a few things at once! Still plan to put in a Starbond order but I'll give these a quick test for a week or so first.

Rob,

Thanks for your post and link. Interesting that baking soda is an effective accelerator for the super glues. The rest of the article was interesting too but seems like baking soda has a lot longer shelf life than the hardener. Maybe make a baking soda slurry and keep it in a squeeze bottle if the water wouldn't affect the process negatively. Some concern with getting the baking soda places I don't want it.

Fortunately it has warmed up enough I can go outside and play now! 84 degrees feels like 90 according to the weather. Feels like a bit more than 90 where I am standing but it could be a lot worse in June!

Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

BTW, I have purchased some of the Starbond mini bottles of CA at SWAT -- mostly the specialty stuff like brown and black and haven"t had a problem with them leaking. I have wondered if they use a better quality bottle for those.

A couple years ago at SWAT, I stopped at their booth and discussed the problem that I was having with the bottles (leaking caps and bottles splitting when sitting on the shelf). My recollection is that they had received a few reports of the problem from other customers and gave me a bottle of glue. I did buy some additional glue from them assuming that the problem with the bottles was resolved. However I found that the bottled didn't seal much, if any better than the ones that I purchased previously. Maybe I just have a knack for buying the bad bottles.

I have been pretesting my refill bottles by tightly capping them and then squeezing to see if they hold air without slowly leaking down. I used those "good" bottles for the thin CA. Those that leaked only slightly, I used for the medium and thick CA. I still needed to be careful because the medium CA could sometimes leak around the threads. One other thought that I had while sitting here at the computer is that I could use what plumbers use -- Teflon tape to seal the threads. I would try this idea out, but all that I currently have on hand is medium and thick CA.

 

[Gerhard Christmann]

Hello from Germany,

we had the same leaking problem some years ago , 0,5 - 0,7 % of the 2 oz bottles with thin glue leak.

Now we use a sealing washer on the 2 oz. bottles, this helps a lot, also teflon tape will work. But be careful now, when you overtighten the cap, it will break. Most time we find this bottles before shipping.

This is not a big problem ( in numbers), but it is a mess for the buyer how open a parcel with an broken bottle.

best regards from Wiesbaden Germany

Gerhard

 

[Steve Worcester]

Understand also, CA has a shelf life. Undernormal ambient temps, it is about a year.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I wrapped the threads of a 2 oz bottle with Teflon tape today and it took quite a few wraps to get an airtight seal. I did not have any thin CA on hand so I filled the bottle with medium CA and then hand tightened the cap. After that I gave it a firm squeeze and it did not leak. Of course, the real test would be to see how well this fix works with thin CA.

 

[KellyDunn]

I have been a starbond customer for a pile of years. The only time I have trouble with leaking is when the threads fill with glue. Also with time the bottles crack. But I know that. So when I see the bottle begin to give I just grab a new one. Also if the cap is not screwed on tight enough I have had a problem. So I tightened the sucker. And used acetone to unstick my hand. I keep the glue in the freezer. My med. thick(16oz) I purchased in 03. Still fine. I decant a bit at a time and try to remember to pop the small bottle back in the freezer. It starts to really thicken in about 2 weeks and is solid in a month. I do use the capilary tips on the thin mix. almost never have a problem. When they do glog I put them in a jar. When full I will add some acetone and they will get cleaned out to reuse. But since I have a hundred or more of the small tips, 20 or so 2oz bottles, piles of tips, etc. Its no big deal to just grab a new one. I buy the two thinnest and mix them together. Works for me. I use so much of the thin mix I go through about two 16oz a year plus two 16oz of the accelerator. I actually only change on average two of the 2oz bottles a year. It begins to get brittle and harder to squeeze. So I know the cracks are coming.
I have been very happy with the glue and service. Knock on wood.
The EZ bond hit to fast for me here in Hawaii so I will not be a customer again. Probably works fine in other places.

 

[Hu Lowery]

didn't take long!

I used the 02 superthin glue yesterday. I did repeatedly verify that the top was quite tight being aware of possible issues. Was trying to fill some pretty deep cracks in some of the usual curly pine from a big box with the thin stuff followed by medium thick. As soon as I turned the two ounce bottle down and back up I glued two fingers together from end joint to hand.

Put me down as another unfan of the two ounce bottles!

Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I glued two fingers together from end joint to hand.

Put me down as another unfan of the two ounce bottles!

Welcome to the Vulcan salute club! Live long and prosper.

 

[Hu Lowery]

good one!

Welcome to the Vulcan salute club! Live long and prosper.

Thanks for the grin!

Hu

 

[waltben]

I've been buying Starbond for about ten years now. At this point, I only get the very thin and the medium (last order I think was 6 bottles of thin an 4 of medium), and store them in a small refer. in our bedroom. I've only had the leaking problem once, and tightened the cap further to fix it. I'd suggest wrapping the bottle in a piece of aluminum foil if tightening doesn't work.

 

[Hu Lowery]

thanks!

I've been buying Starbond for about ten years now. At this point, I only get the very thin and the medium (last order I think was 6 bottles of thin an 4 of medium), and store them in a small refer. in our bedroom. I've only had the leaking problem once, and tightened the cap further to fix it. I'd suggest wrapping the bottle in a piece of aluminum foil if tightening doesn't work.

Thanks for the tin foil suggestion. I tightened the cap as tight as I dared with no joy. I'll have to find a different container or secondary container to store it in the ice box, I don't think it is advisable to store that thin stuff around food with a leaky top and I only have the one refrigerator. Double containers seem like a good idea anyway but I don't want to know one is likely to be releasing vapors from the jump.

Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have tried tightening various amounts and when I reached the limit of what I could do by hand, I used pliers with padding on the jaws. There is a point just beyond hand tight where further tightening actually increases the leakage. I have also tried making gaskets out of everything that I could imagine and none were satisfactory. I also tried truing the bottle tops with a diamond hone -- another failed option. Occasionally, I find a cap and bottle combination from the 2 oz Starbond bottles that will give me an airtight seal when I test them.

The stuff that I buy locally at Rockler's and Woodcraft have wedge lock seals at the top. That is what the Starbond CA really needs to fix the problem.

As far as storing CA goes, I put the long thin micro applicator tips on the spouts and then never recap them. At room temperature, they will generally last until the bottle is empty which is a few months. In the refrigerator, they last as long as the unopened bottles. With the micro applicator tips, I don't believe that there is any measurable amount of stuff interacting with the air in the fridge. In my garage refrigerator, I generally only have things like canned drinks and jars of stuff like pickles. Recently, I have had fresh stuff like jello, pudding, and smoothies as a result of overflow from the kitchen refrigerator due to my recent glossectomy surgery. I would not have done it if I was concerned about fumes from the glue. I also had my InLace stored in the garage refrigerator.

 

[Hu Lowery]

the leak area is more the concern

I have tried tightening various amounts and when I reached the limit of what I could do by hand, I used pliers with padding on the jaws. There is a point just beyond hand tight where further tightening actually increases the leakage. I have also tried making gaskets out of everything that I could imagine and none were satisfactory. I also tried truing the bottle tops with a diamond hone -- another failed option. Occasionally, I find a cap and bottle combination from the 2 oz Starbond bottles that will give me an airtight seal when I test them.

The stuff that I buy locally at Rockler's and Woodcraft have wedge lock seals at the top. That is what the Starbond CA really needs to fix the problem.

As far as storing CA goes, I put the long thin micro applicator tips on the spouts and then never recap them. At room temperature, they will generally last until the bottle is empty which is a few months. In the refrigerator, they last as long as the unopened bottles. With the micro applicator tips, I don't believe that there is any measurable amount of stuff interacting with the air in the fridge. In my garage refrigerator, I generally only have things like canned drinks and jars of stuff like pickles. Recently, I have had fresh stuff like jello, pudding, and smoothies as a result of overflow from the kitchen refrigerator due to my recent glossectomy surgery. I would not have done it if I was concerned about fumes from the glue. I also had my InLace stored in the garage refrigerator.

Bill, the leakage around the top cap isn't the concern, the leakage between the top of the bottle and the main cap is my concern with the thin stuff. I figure there shouldn't be much vapor flash at that temperature but anything that is escaping is doing it 24/7.That was a pretty significant leak to just pour down the outside of the bottle. Think I'll take my glue that dries to something that looks like silicone and isn't much stronger to try to glue the cap on my EM-02 bottle.

Hu

 

[Gretch Flo]

superglue

The fume thing brings me to my history which has been recapped in previous threads here.
I am allergic to the fumes (severe sinusitis and burning in the chest days later if I really got into the fumes). Took me 4 months to figure it out as the reaction is 8 hours later.
I then got the Starbond oderless and have no problems with it. I have used it ?8-10 years now. They don't have it in the thick. By the way I keep reusing the 2 oz bottles (decanting the 16 oz bottle into the small ones) , and haven't had the problems others are mentioning. Maybe I had a few good ones in the beginning and am still using them.
Often (today in fact,) I have to use the thick to glue up tubes.. Someone on this forum suggested I use a fan in back of me, and in the winter that works. (thank you forum).
Today I sat on the deck and glued the tubes up. There was no breeze, and I could smell the glue (bad omen), so took some cortizone nasal spray. It now is 4-8 hours (2 batches) and ok so far. I keep all my thin oderless and the thick CA bottles in freezer bags in the basement freezer wedged in a corner. Gretch

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill, the leakage around the top cap isn't the concern, the leakage between the top of the bottle and the main cap is my concern with the thin stuff...

I presume that the main cap that you are referring to is one without a spout on the large bottles? I have been using Starbond for a number of years and never had a problem with the big bottles leaking.

 

[Rob Wallace]

The fume thing brings me to my history which has been recapped in previous threads here.
I am allergic to the fumes (severe sinusitis and burning in the chest days later if I really got into the fumes). Took me 4 months to figure it out as the reaction is 8 hours later.

Gretch:

The level of irritation and lacrimator action of volatile unpolymerized CA is worse the drier the air is. Higher humidity reduces this effect, as does dilution of vapor by moving air. This is the first I've heard of residual health effects after CA exposure (....other than gluing body parts together or to something else! ); I have experienced the tearing when strong CA vapors are about, but have not had the symptoms you report.

Perhaps chilling the CA in a freezer before use may lower the volatility of the vapors enough to reduce exposure. Something to try....?

Rob

 

[Gretch Flo]

Gretch:

Rob

I believe 2 other people have told me that have experienced the same effects-one said his allergist said it wasn't a true allergy.

Perhaps chilling the CA in a freezer before use may lower the volatility of the vapors enough to reduce exposure. Something to try....?
Maybe I'll try-however if I have it out for 20 min (gluing several things or multiple coats in a big gap with filler) maybe it wouldn't help-worth a "shot". Last nite and this am no sneezing (can sneeze up to 100 times a day the next 2-3 days) or plugged nose. Gretch

 

[Rob Wallace]

Keep cold bottle closed tightly...

Gretch:

Remember that cold bottles will precipitate water from the air ("sweat"), and should this precipitate come in contact with the liquid unpolymerized CA, the addition of water could cause premature, and unwanted polymerization, shortening the life of the unused CA adhesive.

It is advisable to keep the CS bottles tightly covered and minimize exposure time for both you AND the unused CA glue!

Rob

 

[odie]

Rob/Gretch......

Just speculating, but it occurred to me that if you vacuum seal the bottles before refrigerating, and allowing to acclimate to room temperature prior too opening the package for subsequent use, this problem of condensation could be resolved.

Never tried it, but at first thought, it seems like it might work......

Thinking of those inexpensive vacuum food sealing units.

ooc

 

[Rob Wallace]

Rob/Gretch......

Just speculating, but it occurred to me that if you vacuum seal the bottles before refrigerating, and allowing to acclimate to room temperature prior too opening the package for subsequent use, this problem of condensation could be resolved.
ooc

Odie:

Acclimating the CS to room temperature would defeat the purpose of chilling the CS to lower its volatility. Yes, it would solve the condensation problem, but the discussion was to try to lower the evaporation of free CA vapor while Gretch uses it to reduce the exposure potential. Using the CA chilled could work, but I was only pointing out that allowing water from condensation to come in contact with the unused CA could create a different problem.

I think vacuum sealing the bottles would be a major hassle and a royal PITA to use for anything but long term storage of CA (Storage under dry nitrogen gas or carbon dioxide might be easier than maintaining a vacuum.) BTW - The bags used to seal under vacuum would have to be appropriately rated for gas impermeability for them to exclude water vapor.

Rob

 

[odie]

Odie:

Acclimating the CS to room temperature would defeat the purpose of chilling the CS to lower its volatility. Yes, it would solve the condensation problem, but the discussion was to try to lower the evaporation of free CA vapor while Gretch uses it to reduce the exposure potential. Using the CA chilled could work, but I was only pointing out that allowing water from condensation to come in contact with the unused CA could create a different problem.

I think vacuum sealing the bottles would be a major hassle and a royal PITA to use for anything but long term storage of CA (Storage under dry nitrogen gas or carbon dioxide might be easier than maintaining a vacuum.) BTW - The bags used to seal under vacuum would have to be appropriately rated for gas impermeability for them to exclude water vapor.

Rob

Howdy Rob.......OK, sounds like the vacuum food bags won't suit the purpose. Just one more of my random thoughts that didn't pan out......and, I've got lots of those!

later.......

ooc

 

[KellyDunn]

Keep your large bottles in the freezer. Decant what you need into the smaller bottles. And put the big bottle back in the freezer. Its been out of the freezer for all of 45 seconds. Knock on wood but have had zero problem with any air in the large bottles in the freezer for many many years. My 2c. You can speculate and postulate every possible outcome. I just told you what works.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I don't think that the freezer is necessary. I keep mine in the refrigerator. When I need to fill small bottles, I take the large bottle out and let it warm to room temperature before opening it and transferring CA from one container to another. Doing this while the CA is cold makes it more likely to get condensation inside the bottle. I have had some CA stored for five years or longer doing things this way.

 

[hockenbery]

Keep your large bottles in the freezer. Decant what you need into the smaller bottles. And put the big bottle back in the freezer. Its been out of the freezer for all of 45 seconds. Knock on wood but have had zero problem with any air in the large bottles in the freezer for many many years. My 2c. You can speculate and postulate every possible outcome. I just told you what works.

Kelly
This works for me too.
Freezer last for years.

I now keep the small bottles i'm using In the shop refrigerator.

We don't turn as much as we used to and use CA a lot less when we do.
But the open uncapped bottles keep in the fridge for 6 months to a year.

Other things may work but this works for me!
Al

 

[Hu Lowery]

Anybody use KEG or some of the other specialty glues?

Getting a Starbond order together again.

Fixing to find out for myself but I can't get a pricelist from Starbond until next week so I thought I'd ask has anyone used the KEG line or any other of their specialty glues? I know Gretch uses or used the odorless version which I'm interested in trying for fine cracks. Not really allergic, I have a sensitivity to cyanates after over exposure to iso-cyanates in the automotive painting field. Takes my breath away, often a bigger issue the night after inhaling too much and "too much" is very little these days.

Anyone have any feedback on any of the specialty lines from Starbond?

Thanks,
Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

I haven't tried the odorless, but it sounds like a good idea if it really is odorless. I would recommend that you get the non-aerosol accelerator from Starbond in a pump sprayer. It works as fast as the regular aerosol accelerator, but does not cause the CA to fume. I have used it on some CA finishes such as this vase and besides not fuming, the CA cures crystal clear and no white haziness.

 

[Hu Lowery]

Thank You Bill!

I haven't tried the odorless, but it sounds like a good idea if it really is odorless. I would recommend that you get the non-aerosol accelerator from Starbond in a pump sprayer. It works as fast as the regular aerosol accelerator, but does not cause the CA to fume. I have used it on some CA finishes such as this vase and besides not fuming, the CA cures crystal clear and no white haziness.

Thank you for that tip Bill. I do plan on getting some accelerator so that is good to know. Haven't been doing any turning for a few months with the weather foul one way or another and you and I working in separate areas of the same shop if I recall correctly. The owner designed the home and outbuildings to funnel the north wind which seems most dominant here across the back porch. Great in the hot weather, not so great when it is cold or rainy. I know other areas have been much colder but I still don't turn well when I am turning blue myself!

Hu