Question about buffing!

[Jonathon.C]

I had a quick question -- I just got a buffing wheel for my lathe... the question that I had was, are you able to use more than one buffing compound on the same buffing wheel? Is there any way to clean a wheel off so that you can use different compounds? Also, what is the best buffing compound for wood?? Thanks!

Jonathon

 

[Steve Worcester]

Ideally you have a wheel for each compound. That way, there is no contamination of the rougher compounds into the finer.

You could try cleaning the wheel with a rake, like on this page
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=970&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=rake

But I think it will start degrading the wheel also. Another way to clean it a bit is to hold the edge of a hardwood board against the spinning buff.

As far as compounds, the best is going to depend on the wood. For dark wood, you can start with tripoli, lights woods it will discolor it. From there, white diamond and then carnauba wax. To really get the benefits on a larger piece, you may have to sand to finer grits than usual, say 600-1000.

 

[Randy Rice]

Buffing Video

You can find a good on-line video on buffing at

http://www.woodcraft-gallery.com/StreamingMedia/bealbuff.wmv

It is promoting the Beall System, but contains good general information.

 

[Whit]

When I first tried buffing, I tried to use one wheel. I raked it, I ran it against course sand paper, I even tried washing it in the washing machine. Flight of fancy. I eventually broke down and bought the Beall Buffing System - 3 different wheels designed specifically for the compound used on them - Tripoli, White Diamond and Carnauba Wax. I also bought 3 bowl buffs for the inside of a bowl. I run all these buffs on a salvaged electric motor (counterclockwise rotation required) which turns at around 1750 RPM. Seems to work great.

As Steve mentioned, in preparation for buffing, I routinely sand to 600 grit. I've tried 1000, 1500 and even 2000 grit but they don't seem to offer much difference in final finish after the Beall. This may be a function of my finish of choice which is Watco Danish Oil. I want a penetrating finish. Surface finishes just don't hold up.

Whit

 

[Jonathon.C]

Hey, thanks for the help... this is really good info!!! One more question I had is: Is it better to buff at high speed or low speed??? Thx

Jonathon

 

[Mark Mandell]

Hey, thanks for the help... this is really good info!!! One more question I had is: Is it better to buff at high speed or low speed??? Thx

Jonathon

Buffing is used, primarily to bring up gloss on a film finish. It's not a substitute for sanding the raw wood, will clog the wood pores with compound which looks really bad, and will make remaining scratches more noticable.

I've often seen people make the same mistake with a buffer as they do sanding, to wit, rubbing harder if it's not working. You can easily melt or burn through any film finish with buffing compound. A lighter touch and more frequent recharging with fresh compound will get more done faster.

You should also keep in mind that buffing wax (usually carnuba) onto the piece may look glossy at first, but wax actually attracts mosture and will become dull and often cloudy before very long. Keep in mind as well that if you buff and then find you need to apply more finish, you will need to very carefully clean the piece to remove both the compound grit and, especially, the stick medium (actually grease) or you can run into adhesion problems.

Have fun.

M

 

[MichaelMouse]

Buffing is power sanding with extremely fine grits. If you are able to sand with the grain, the wood itself will not improve beyond about 400. Limiting factor being pore size and dispersal. If you're still cutting across the grain, you need to make shallower scratches or use a finish whose refractive index and thickness will hide the ones you have.

Now for the difference. If you press hard on the wood and drive the oil in, you can heat it and burnish the surface just as you can with hot sanding. Looks nice to the eye. Old boys used to burnish with shavings because they didn't have the inclination nor the materials to sand as we can. If you press hard and heat the finish, you can heat it until it flows, or even cut entirely through, forcing you to sand and start over. Solvent sanding recommended.

If you're into experimentation, lay some fine pumice in the piece with your oil or wax and power sand slowly with a cloth over your mandrel. Be generous with the oil or wax, as it is now a lubricant, used to maintain good cutting and minimum heating. Wipe thoroughly, then go to rottenstone.