Question about Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

[Jonathan Garcia]

Hi guys, I’m new to this forum and was hoping I could get an answer to a question. I turned a laminated bowl to 1500 grit and have put 2 coats of Waterlox original sealer/finish on so far (wipe on wipe off with a rag); I have buffed pieces in the past with Tripoli, white diamond and carnauba wax. The problem I was having with the carnauba wax was that if any water touched the waxed piece it would dull. So now I want to use only Waterlox Original due to the fact that the piece would be easier to repair and maintain rather than have to rebuff. With buffing I noticed that the Tripoli compound would get rid of all of the 1500 grit circle marks left from sanding on the lathe (I can’t sand with the grain due to the nature of lamination turning grain patterns). So my question is; do any of you see a problem with applying 2-3 coats of Waterlox, then buffing with Tripoli compound then with white diamond polish to get rid of all of the circle marks left from sanding, and then apply 2-3 more coats of Waterlox to finish the piece? Thank you all, I hope you can get back to me on this one. And if I’m missing something with certain principals of finishing I would like to hear about them as well. Thanks again.

 

[John Beaver]

I've actually done it. It works fine. I find that the Tripoli dulls the
Waterlox a little, so adding a final coat of Waterlox brings the shine back. You might want to try renaissance wax instead of Carnuba. I've also buffed the bare wood and then added the Waterlox. That worked well too.

 

[Jonathan Garcia]

Thanks John, I’ve got this piece mounted up I’ve been working on for months now and wasn’t sure I wanted to experiment on this one. I’m going to buff those sanding marks out tomorrow. Btw, that is some beautiful work you have on your site. Thanks again

 

[Peter Clark]

I'd only add that you want to be really careful not to burn through the Waterlox finish while your buffing with the tripoli. The repair is a pain.... Nice work on your site too.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Are you speaking of the "finish," which is a varnish? If so, as with any film the only coat you need to polish is the final. You will want to "tooth" for the intermediate coats with some 320 or 400 so they will adhere well. They will also bridge the scratches and create a smooth surface if you apply them correctly. I use Tripoli to dull the wet look of my final coat of similar products where I don't want a bright shine. Some use steel wool or even dry pumice.

You have to get all the wax off to recoat, and that will take solvent. Same with the grease binder in the tripoli when you want to apply wax afterward. If you have difficulty with the finish pulling back from areas and leaving dry, you may have wax, grease, or even a too-slick surface which needs toothing.