A friend has made a padauk handle for a large pizza paddle, wants to know if Titebond would work to hold the inserted handle-tang in the receiver. I'm thinking it could do the job, but wondering if epoxy would be preferable. Your opinions?
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Quick advice on glue task needed
- Thread starter Jamie Straw
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- glue metal wood
Epoxy would work fine, I use E6000 adhesive, it stays flexible and adheres to a multitude of materials.
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Epoxy would be much better. Yellow wood glue is for gluing wood to wood or other similar porous materials like MDF, paper, and fabric by penetrating the fibers. Whenever I have managed to drip wood glue on turning tools, clamps, tablesaw top, Formica countertop, or lathe bed it is pretty easy to remove by prying it up with a knife after it dries.
odie
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Agree.....epoxy for metal to wood. The bond can be made even stronger....."forever strong".....by putting notches or grooves in the inserted rod to the wood handle. This creates little "pockets" of hardened glue between rod and wood handle.
-----odie-----
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Epoxy is great, but heat can be it's downfall. If this paddle will live in a typical home and be used casually, no problem. But, if this will be a working pizza paddle that lives by a commercial oven, that epoxy might soften up on him.
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If there is heat it will break down the epoxy
You might use pins
A tight jamb fit of the handle over the paddle shaft may be all that is needed.
For more security drill a couple holes and use wood or brass pins.
Imjamb fit my turning tools in wooden handles rarely glue them and the only when they come loose a few drop of thick CA holds them.
You might use pins
A tight jamb fit of the handle over the paddle shaft may be all that is needed.
For more security drill a couple holes and use wood or brass pins.
Imjamb fit my turning tools in wooden handles rarely glue them and the only when they come loose a few drop of thick CA holds them.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Some good advice. If that handle grain doesn't run in the same direction as the paddle then Odie's suggestion is what I do. I take a dremel with a course cutter and make score marks inside the mortise. Then I cut small nicks in the tenon with the bandsaw. The epoxy then forms little plastic dowels when it cures and keeps the handle from coming out. If heat is a possibility I would drill a small hole through the side of the paddle and into the tenon. I use a 1/8" drill bit and 1/8" brass brazing rod. Drive the rod in with some glue and then cut it off and file it flush. Looks great and guarantees the handle won't come off.