Robert Sorby 200KT Multi tip shear scraper?

[Shawn Hermans]

HI,

Just wondering if the Robert Sorby 200KT Multi tip shear scraper is a good starting tool as I'm in need of a tool for hallowing and scraper. Do you recommend it?

A supplier also mentioned that I should consider the bent 230 tool.

any feedback is appreciated

regards,
Shawn Hermans

 

[Steve Tarach]

Good tool to have

I bought the Sorby multi tip tool a number of years after I had started turning. I wish I had bought it earlier as I find that I use it far more than some of the other tools I have for hollowing and scraping. I just recently bought the cove cutter and bead cutter bits for it, haven't really used them but they were on clearance. This is one tool I have not been disappointed with and the cost was reasonable. Its a versatile tool and if I ever assembled an "essential tool kit" it would be included. Only gripe is I would like to see the shaft and the handle both be a couple of inches longer.
I also have one of the smaller swan neck Sorby hollowers. I cant give that one a recommendation, the diameter of the shaft (about 10mm) is too small and it flexes in use. I still use it occcasionally if I need to get around the neck of a vase but only in situations where I can't use the multi tip tool.The bigger swan neck tools with larger diameter shafts should be ok but may be too big for what you want to do.

Steve

 

[Bill Boehme]

..... I only use it inside a bowl, after a bowl gouge. I just am not good enough yet to smooth the curve (side to bottom) without major ruts. Maybe someday I will be good enough to not use a scraper. I would like to take lessons from someone who doesn’t and goes right from cutting to applying finish (no sandpaper allowed as it scrapes)..........

The heft of the 200KT causes much less chattering than a standard scraper.

Mike

Mike, there is nothing wrong with using a scraper on the inside of a bowl to clean it up after using a regular bowl gouge. I might add that I took a two-day class with Stuart Batty and under his very close guidance, I was able to use a bowl gouge to get a near perfect finish cut on both inside and outside with the bowl gouge, but I still can't do it own my own. Neither can most other woodturners. Stuart Batty has turned many thousand bowls to get to the point where he is, so do not be concerned that you have not attained this skill level yet.

Since you are experiencing some dig-ins and chatter when scraping the inside of bowls, I will mention a few things that can possibly contribute to that happening.

1. On the inside of a bowl, the tool rest should be set so that the edge of the scraper contacts the wood above the center line of rotation. The tool should also be angled downwards slightly. If it is angled upwards, it is more likely to dig into the wood.
2. On the outside of the bowl, the situation is just the opposite -- the tool rest should be set so that the edge of the scraper contacts the wood below the center line of rotation. The tool still needs to be angled downwards slightly.
3. In all cases, make certain that the scraper is firmly resting on the tool rest.
4. If the walls of the bowl are thin, it is very likely to chatter. When scraping, a very light touch is needed. Using a couple fingers of the left hand lightly rubbing the outside of the bowl as it is being scraper helps to dampen the chatter a bit. Even better when turning something very thin, is to progress in stages from the rim to the bottom -- first using the bowl gouge to remove material and then the scraper to finish it. Once a section is finished, you should not go back to it. This is much easier to understand if you have seen it demonstrated.
5. A scraper should always be used with a very light touch and should make small shavings. Do not try to continue on when the edge gets dull by applying more pressure because it will just lead to increased problems with chatter. If you see dust rather than shavings, it means that the edge is no longer sharp. Get someone (or a video) to show you how to "pull a bur" on the edge of a scraper using a burnishing tool.
6. A regular scraper can be used to shear scrape by rolling it up on its left edge about 45 degrees and tilting it down slightly more than regular scraping. Using an even lighter touch, gently pull it from the bottom of the bowl up to the rim (provided that the bowl has not warped).
7. Sometimes a beginner gets the feeling that he is not in full control of the situation (hanging on for dear life and hoping that the is not a dig-in or worse). When that happens, it is time to take a break and assess the situation to figure out how to get back in full control.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I also have one of the smaller swan neck Sorby hollowers. I cant give that one a recommendation, the diameter of the shaft (about 10mm) is too small and it flexes in use. I still use it occcasionally if I need to get around the neck of a vase but only in situations where I can't use the multi tip tool.The bigger swan neck tools with larger diameter shafts should be ok but may be too big for what you want to do.

Steve

Are you making certain that only the straight part of the tool shank is on the tool rest. If the tool rest is placed too close to the turning, the curved part of the shank will be on the rest and that could be the source of the problems. I would be very surprised if the shank is actually flexing when used for its intended purpose. It is not intended to be used for heavy duty hogging of wood.

 

[Bill Boehme]

HI,

Just wondering if the Robert Sorby 200KT Multi tip shear scraper is a good starting tool as I'm in need of a tool for hallowing and scraper. Do you recommend it?

A supplier also mentioned that I should consider the bent 230 tool.

any feedback is appreciated

regards,
Shawn Hermans

If you are a beginning turner, I would say definitely no. Master the basics and the basic tools first. As you progress, you will know what, if any, additional tools you need. Just buying a bunch of tools when you are beginning is not prudent. Don't listen to the salesman nor, for that matter, depend too much on what you are told on Internet forums. If you need a specialty tool, you will know when the time comes.

 

[Rick Taylor]

Shawn,
I have the 200KT and use it when appropriate. I think it does a good job at shear cutting. I use it occasionally for hollowing as well but have other tools that are used more frequently. I use them because I am more familiar with them and they do a good job. In general I think the 200KT is a good tool. I think it is somewhat specialized in its use and I would not recommend it as a "must have" basic tool. Learn the other basic tools and add the 200KT if/when you cannot effectively do it with what you have.
Rick

 

[Shawn Hermans]

Jamieson hollow form turning system?

Shawn,
I have the 200KT and use it when appropriate. I think it does a good job at shear cutting. I use it occasionally for hollowing as well but have other tools that are used more frequently.

Thanks Rick, regarding other tools for hallowing.. if the 200kt is not the first choice to use for hallowing, what should this first hallowing tool be for me?

regards,

Shawn

 

[Rick Taylor]

Shawn,
I am sure my answer to you will open up a lot of debate. I try to use as few tools as possible. I hollow most with a gouge followed with a scraper. I use simple tools I have made myself using the basic Ellsworth tool design as a starting point for occasions that are deeper than the gouge and scraper will allow. The design uses inexpensive cutters produced for the metal cutting industries for their cutting edge, drill rod drilled to accept the cutters and a handle I turn to fit my hand comfortably. The cutters can be purchased from MSC, Enco or other industrial tooling suppliers. You can super glue the cutters to the holes in the drill rod to make them easily replaceable. All you have to do is apply a little heat to the cutter when you want to replace them. If you do not want to make your own you can purchase the Ellsworth tools from most turning suppliers. I know Craft Supplies and Packard have had them in past catalogs. You can search the forum archives on hollowing tools and get a lot of information to help you in making your decision. I own a lot of tools I purchased over the years because of suggestions from others and/or because they looked appealing at the time. I am finding I do not use many of them now because I have become more proficient at using the basic gouge and scraper as often as practical. Less tools to change while turning and less to sharpen. This is what I have found to work for me. Others will have methods that work best for them and I am sure we may be seeing them after this post.
Rick Taylor

 

[Dan Mosley]

I agree with Rick and others may disagree like he said - I have many lathe tools for the same reasons. I mainly use bowl gouges (1/2 and 5/8 Roughing and a 3/8 detail gouge) and scrappers (large 1 1/2 - couple smaller ones), I use carbide tip cutters on a hogger i made, and had some fun using old drill bits for different cutting tools. My gouges now are good ones- cryogenic metal and the scrappers are HSS.
I did recently order a hollowing rig because i attended a one day class on hollowing and was amazed at how much more fun i was having. So i guess turning tools and making them etc - are part of the fun and everyone here will have different opinons on the tools they like and use.
When you upgrade any of your tools i would suggest looking at Thompson wood turning tools - great guy to work with and a really good product

 

[rjones]

I agree with Bill B learn the basic first, see if you can find a club or some one that knows the basic tool useage to help you. Using a tool the right way is a lot more enjoyable and safer(or safer and enjoyable). If this sales person is showing you that tool before the basic tools find a different sales person.just my thoughts.