sanding question.......what speed

[Scott Brandstetter]

I realize this depends on the size of the bowl or vessel. I was told by a nice guy at WC that there is no need to sand at any higher speed than the lathe's lowest speed. Since I don't know anything about anything, thought I would ask you experienced guys. My mind says, sanding at a higher speed means a smoother finish. My mind also says, depending on the wood, I could end up burning the finish and affecting the way it accepts the finish. I have a feeling, there is no simple answer.

One other thing. Being new, I have become hooked on CA glue for a high gloss finish. Seems that because of it, my "green" bowls don't warp as much. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[Jerry Bailey]

just had a conversation with a member concerning this,
his response was the same, sand at slower/slowest lathe speed
As I just found out, higher speeds equal higher heat, and the distinct possibility of heat cracks in the wood.
Even tho I kept sanding motion sweeping, and hand nor sandpaper got even remotely warm, the wood did in fact develop heat cracks.
So now, I too have to agree about using the slower speed

 

[Bill Boehme]

Hand sanding probably gives the smoothest finish and it is about the slowest way to sand. Smoothness is a function of how well you sand, not how fast. If you are familiar with thermodynamics, all of the energy in sanding winds up as heat energy and some of that heat raises the temperature of the wood -- some of it burns your fingers if you sand fast. The faster you sand, the higher the temperature. If the wood happens to be green, heating it causes localized drying which translates into high internal stresses which means cracking. Sanding fast to remove lots of material causes the turning to go out of round. Once a turning goes out of round, it is a snowball effect. Make it a goal to get a better finish with the turning tools so that there won't be a need for the proverbial 80 grit gouge.

 

[odie]

just had a conversation with a member concerning this,
his response was the same, sand at slower/slowest lathe speed
As I just found out, higher speeds equal higher heat, and the distinct possibility of heat cracks in the wood.
Even tho I kept sanding motion sweeping, and hand nor sandpaper got even remotely warm, the wood did in fact develop heat cracks.
So now, I too have to agree about using the slower speed

You got some good advice, Jerry......

Aside from heat checking, another drawback from heat is burning (slightly discoloring) the wood. This may not be apparent until after you apply a finish......and, there it is! Very disappointing to go all the way back to re-sand the burn, or discoloring completely away. I haven't seen any burning for quite a long time, but it was a problem for me back in the 1980's. Burning (or discoloring) the wood is pretty easy to do with powered sanding, but normally not much of a problem with sandpaper held by hand against spinning wood, until you get into the higher grits. As you already know, keeping the sanding motion fluid, and not concentrated on any one spot for long, is key to keeping heat at a minimum.

Most all my sanding is done with a powered angle sander (Sioux or Milwaukee) variable speed up to 1200rpm, using 2" and 3" flexible discs. The lathe is generally around 300rpm. When I do random orbital sanding, it's usually around 25rpm, using 400, or 600 grit.

Powered sanding is usually done up to 180 grit, and done by hand for higher grits than that. Occasionally, powered sanding is done at 220 grit, but not very often. (To clarify, when I say "by hand", I mean folded sandpaper held in your hand with lathe spinning at around 300rpm.)

All speeds mentioned are approximate, and each specific application (or individual's choice) may vary somewhat........

I usually don't sand completely by hand (lathe turned off), except when I need to deal with one little spot that needs work.

ooc

 

[hockenbery]

One thing to watch is the dust stream. If you aren't generating one the the sanding is not working.
You need either a different speed, different grit or fresh abrasive.
Like everyone else has said a slow lathe speed is best

I like a high revolution in a sanding disc combined with a low revolution in the lathe.
At high lath speed the sanding stream disappears quickly because the abrasive clogs quickly

I often stop the lathe and rotate the piece by hand sanding spots that need a little more work

I sand all of my hollow forms and natural edge bowls off the the lathe.
If they have a small foot I sand that on the lathe as sanding off the lathe is too difficult.

In general I sand bare wood to 320.
400 after the first finish coat and scotch brite 0000 after that.
The finishes generally need sanding at higher grits.

Plastics, ebony, high gloss, some other tropicals I will go to the 1200+ grit abrasives.

Ebony will show scratches at 1200
Walnut and cherry usually don't show scratches at 220

Al

 

[Jerry Bailey]

I haven't used a "power sander" in over 10 years ......
when creating my previous platters/trays/ etc (via other power tools, not on a lathe) I used a triangle oscillating sander for the 80 & 120g "basic shaping"
everything else has always been done by hand (it's the way I was taught 30 years ago)

On the lathe I use the Abranet screens, and strictly by hand, as I can feel everything that's happening to the wood.
Was my opinion that running lathe 1000-1200 and sanding by hand was OK ..........
again, screens never got warm, nor my hands, stopped between each grit change to vacuum dust, then proceeded to finer grit
still got 2-3 heat cracks , they can barely be seen, but I know they're there, and it ruins the piece IMHO

from here on out, I sand @ 200 RPM

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bruce Hoover of The Sanding Glove has a saying, "Worn out 120 isn't 220". What he is saying, of course, is that sandpaper wears out much faster than most people seem to realize and when it stop rapidly cutting, it is time for a new piece of sandpaper. Once it is worn out, it is not the same as a higher grit.

 

[robo hippy]

I power sand, and started the slow speed sanding after talking to Vince of VincesWoodNWonders. I have the trigger at half speed at most, and less than that for the higher grits. I generally start at 120 grit. For some reason, green turned wood seems to leave a coarser surface than dry turned wood, which may be a shrinkage thing. My lathe speed is around 20 rpm in part because you can not keep abrasives on a spinning warped bowl at any speeds above that. When using the coarser grits (up to 220 or so) I always have a firm pad on my drill. I noticed long ago that a firm pad with 120 will cut better than 80 grit on a soft pad, even if you press very hard, which causes more heat, and wear on your drill. It also has the benefit of better smoothing out all those tiny ripples you leave from your tools, which soft pads can not take out. I also noticed that slower disc speeds do a much better job of cutting. At high speeds, the grits do not get a chance to dig in and cut. I would guess a comparison would be like burning out your tires, you get poor traction. Slow speed really does cut faster. Have great lighting. If you have ever taken a piece out into direct sun light to examine it, it can be horrifying to see what you missed. I prefer multi spectrum lighting, like Ott lights (if you have a quilter or needle point sewer in the house, they all know this brand) or I use Blue Max lights, who used to advertise in Woodturning Design. They are brighter and more in the natural light spectrum, so you really can see more. Some do prefer high speed sanding. I haven't tried it again for a while, but it just does not cut as fast. The weight of your drill is more than enough pressure. High speed, heavy pressure, and dull abrasives = more heat.

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

No one has mentioned his question on the bowl not warping as much with a CA finish. It's been my experience that wood moves no matter what finish you use.

 

[robo hippy]

Hmm, I missed that one. The only to keep wood from moving is to use stabilized wood (put in a vacuum chamber and infused with a polymer resin). This is very expensive. I prefer warped, and the more they warp, the better they sell. Maybe it is just me. Some woods will warp more than others as well. Mesquite, very little, Madrone huge warping and no pattern to it.

robo hippy

 

[Bill Boehme]

I did a few large turnings that were finished with CA. It was a lot of time consuming work and I am sure that the super fine dust produced can't possibly be good (based on personal experience of seeing what was hacked up during a severe coughing spasm while dry polishing the stuff with Micromesh -- and this was just from hand sanding). After seeing Alan Trout's demo at SWAT where he has done a lot to perfect the process, I tried it on a vase that I finished yesterday. The process was a lot easier and with much better results than my previous attempts. Also, I had already figured out that wet sanding is the only way to go with CA. This means that the piece needs to be completely waterproof before beginning to sand. I don't plan to use CA as a finish except on rare occasions as it is very time consuming and there are plenty of opportunities to screw things up given just a moment's inattention.

 

[Scott Brandstetter]

Thanks for all of the responses and as usual, learned a lot.

 

[Breck Whitworth]

Scott,
Sanding techniques like turning techniques are similar in that there are clear do's and don't, but once you leave the few constants it gets into the personal preferences that will differ depending on the successes each turner has found to work for them.
Heat is the enemy of a wood bowl/piece
Here are a few tips I have found that helps me. 1. Use sanding discs/sandpaper like someone else is paying for it.
2. Like what has been mentioned using fresh sanding discs is important. Using a worn out disc will just increases the heat being applied to your piece.
3. Progress through the grits and never skip a grit having to sand twice as long with a grit to make up for skipping a grit will again add excess heat to your piece.
4. Blow off/wipe off your piece before changing grits, this prevents premature loading of a new disc.
5. Use firm backing pads for the coarser grits, then use soft backing pads for the finer grits.(when power sanding)
6. slower speed lighter pressure for fine grits.
7. light pressure on the discs will still get the job done, be patient when sanding, take your time =less heat.
I use 2" and 3" discs with an inexpensive right angle drill. But whether you hand sand or power sand remember sanding is a tool and as you get better you may start with a high grit but use what you need in the beginning to get the job done.

 

[odie]

Bruce Hoover of The Sanding Glove has a saying, "Worn out 120 isn't 220". What he is saying, of course, is that sandpaper wears out much faster than most people seem to realize and when it stop rapidly cutting, it is time for a new piece of sandpaper. Once it is worn out, it is not the same as a higher grit.

1. Use sanding discs/sandpaper like someone else is paying for it.
2. Like what has been mentioned using fresh sanding discs is important. Using a worn out disc will just increases the heat being applied to your piece.

It cannot be stressed how important this point Bill and Breck are making.

I'm a bit too frugal about some things, and using worn sandpaper and discs is one thing I did for way too long before I learned to throw the darned things away and get new paper and discs. Learn the hard way, like me.......or take our advice and use fresh paper and discs!

Learn to look at the sawdust being created, and by that you will be able to make a judgment about how worn the paper and discs are. You can also use you fingers on the sandpaper surface and learn to make the judgment based on how much drag you feel.

ooc

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

It cannot be stressed how important this point Bill and Breck are making.

I'm a bit too frugal about some things, and using worn sandpaper and discs is one thing I did for way too long before I learned to throw the darned things away and get new paper and discs. Learn the hard way, like me.......or take our advice and use fresh paper and discs!

Learn to look at the sawdust being created, and by that you will be able to make a judgment about how worn the paper and discs are. You can also use you fingers on the sandpaper surface and learn to make the judgment based on how much drag you feel.

ooc

A hearty Here ! Here ! I too have used worn paper too many times. Had always wondered how do you tell and Odie gave one of my conclusions. How much dust is produced is a good guide. Number two can be the feel of the paper (feel the grit itself) versus a new piece. I got some paper from Craft Supply purported to be the best in the world, made overseas. This paper will change color (actually the base paper) when worn.
So when in doubt try a new piece of paper.

 

[john lucas]

Although I do consider sandpaper a consumable and don't try to re use it I have found some tricks to making it last longer. I use the crepe rubber sandpaper cleaning sticks often. If you don't let the sandpaper get clogged it cuts better. When sanding green wood it clogs up fast. I use what is called a File card to clean the disc if the crepe rubber won't remove it. A file card looks like a metal brush with really short bristles. It's used to clean clogged metal out of hand files. For finer papers especially when hand sanding I simply wipe them on my levi's frequently. It seems to clean them and make them cut better and last many times longer. Haven't work out a pair of levi's doing this yet and saved a lot of paper.
For sanding green wood use the wire mesh sandpapers like Mirka Abralon. It doesn't clog up as bad and can be cleaned with water to last a little longer.

 

[odie]

A hearty Here ! Here ! I too have used worn paper too many times. Had always wondered how do you tell and Odie gave one of my conclusions. How much dust is produced is a good guide. Number two can be the feel of the paper (feel the grit itself) versus a new piece. I got some paper from Craft Supply purported to be the best in the world, made overseas. This paper will change color (actually the base paper) when worn.
So when in doubt try a new piece of paper.

Hello Gerald......

Are you talking about Finkat paper made in Japan? I haven't noticed this sandpaper changing color, but I do think it's a very excellent paper. Matter of fact, I'm changing over to Finkat from Norton 3X paper, but I've got such a huge supply of 3X, that it's going to be quite awhile before the switchover is completed.

I feel the Norton 3X is a fine paper, but the Finkat is a little bit better......not that much better, but enough to warrant the switch. Either of these papers will produce the same quality of finished surface, but it's my opinion that the Finkat takes a little less time and effort to get there.

ooc

 

[Bill Weaver]

Odie
It must be the radiation that makes the paper cut better. I too seem to over use sand paper but you are correct clean paper means clean surface.

 

[robo hippy]

I have found it easier, and less time consuming to let the wood dry by itself rather than wet sand. There are a lot of interesting abrasives out there now. I got some samples from Vince of a mesh with hook and loop on the back. Interesting thing about it was that the coarse grits did not cut nearly as well as comparable grit solid type abrasives. As the grits got finer, 240 and above, there was little difference in how fast they cut, or polished out the scratches from the previous grit. The two best discs I have found for sanding are the blue ones from Vince, and the Dry Ice ones from Norton. They are pretty similar in cutting ability, but the Dry Ice is double the cost. We had a club demo from an abrasive expert a week or so ago. Ceramic is the abrasive of the future. I did find it interesting with the blue discs from Vince that they could feel slightly dull to the touch, but when watching the dust stream, there is still a lot coming off. I can get one cored set of bowls from one set of discs. I do keep the 'eraser' sticks handy for what little loading I do get.

robo hippy

 

[john lucas]

I agree, I much prefer dry sanding. It's just more efficient. I love Vince's blue discs.

 

[Steve Worcester]

One thing to watch is the dust stream. If you aren't generating one the the sanding is not working.
You need either a different speed, different grit or fresh abrasive.
Like everyone else has said a slow lathe speed is best

Al

I dont understand this statement. If I see dust coming off of it, without vacuum, it is a cloud. If it is cutting, it will create a stream.

 

[odie]

I dont understand this statement. If I see dust coming off of it, without vacuum, it is a cloud. If it is cutting, it will create a stream.

I believe I get what Al is saying, Steve......

Example......When you switch from a worn piece of sandpaper to an unused piece, the dust created will flow immediately from the work differently......it has an entirely different look to it. The further from the work, the more that stream of dust will look like a cloud, and not as easily defined in terms of how worn that piece of sandpaper is. By learning to "see" this difference, one can better make judgments about when the proper time to replace the used sandpaper should be.

ooc

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have an attachment for my shop vac that is about 5" X 5" and I try to position it close to what I am sanding. With good lighting, I can see a stream of dust going from the paper to the nozzle -- unless the paper is worn out.

I like Abranet, but I sometime have problems with it wanting to fold over or roll up when using the finer grits while hand sanding. I have attributed this to the strong "tooth" that the Abranet has which sometimes makes it grab softer wood and also that the backing on finer grits is thin and flexes much easier than the coarser grits. Since I'm cheap and Abranet isn't, I normally use Norton 3X paper which strikes a good balance between cheap and longevity. Since I buy it by the box, it will be quite a while before I have a need to look at any other paper.

 

[odie]

As I sat here contemplating this thread, the thought occurred to me that the various sandpapers available to woodturners has some striking similarities to the many different tool steels used in traditional woodturning tools. The ability of the sandpaper to produce the desired results is the same for all the different abrasives available to us. Some may last longer, but if the turner renews the paper or disc in a timely fashion, the results will always be the same. (provided the grits are graded the same) You can spend more, or less, but the results will always be exactly the same.

In a way, this is the same thing as tools steels used for turning tools. You can spend a lot of money on the hybrid steels, but none of them have any advantage for the ability to create a sharper edge. Some will have an advantage for holding that sharp edge, but none have the ability to have a sharper edge, given the same techniques used. (There may be some very slight differences, but not when the results of the cut is taken into consideration.) As a turner refines his ability to sharpen lathe tools, and becomes faster doing it.......the hybrid tool steels become less important, simply because renewing the sharp edge is fast and easy. Technically, this would be the same for abrasives......given the renewed cutting ability is refreshed at that time when doing so will give the best possible results.

These things are why I have come to the conclusion that spending money on exotic tool steels, and abrasives, isn't as important as learning how to use them to their best advantage within their differing limitations......

Of course, I am aware that there are turners who do feel that longevity is worth the expense......but, from the perspective of this turner, they are not!

ooc

 

[Bill Boehme]

As I sat here contemplating this thread, the thought occurred to me that the various sandpapers available to woodturners has some striking similarities to the many different tool steels used in traditional woodturning tools.

Sounds reasonable. Do you have a preferred brand of sandpaper for some reason other than expecting final results to be different (price, familiarity with how it works, like the color .....)?

 

[odie]

Sounds reasonable. Do you have a preferred brand of sandpaper for some reason other than expecting final results to be different (price, familiarity with how it works, like the color .....)?

Bill.....You'll have to revise the question, because I have no idea what you're asking!

ooc

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Hello Gerald......

Are you talking about Finkat paper made in Japan? I haven't noticed this sandpaper changing color, but I do think it's a very excellent paper. Matter of fact, I'm changing over to Finkat from Norton 3X paper, but I've got such a huge supply of 3X, that it's going to be quite awhile before the switchover is completed.

I feel the Norton 3X is a fine paper, but the Finkat is a little bit better......not that much better, but enough to warrant the switch. Either of these papers will produce the same quality of finished surface, but it's my opinion that the Finkat takes a little less time and effort to get there.

ooc

I think that is the name. Kind of expensive. As it is used the gray disappears and the paper looks brown. My guess is that it is caused by grit removal.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill.....You'll have to revise the question, because I have no idea what you're asking!

ooc

OK, I'll try to clarify. Since we know, and I agree with your statement that the final results will be the same regardless of which particular sandpaper you use, my question is do you prefer some particular sandpaper over the others for some other reason that has nothing to do with expecting better final results. I had a couple thoughts such as price and familiarity with a particular brand. I tossed in color of paper for a bit of nonsense and nothing serious.

Since then, I saw that you had mentioned Finkat because you thought that it was a little better than what you currently use and it appears that you mean it sands the wood faster. Does it seem to stay sharp longer? Is price a factor also? I've never heard of this brand and wondering if there is a special source or have I just been asleep lately?

 

[hockenbery]

I dont understand this statement. If I see dust coming off of it, without vacuum, it is a cloud. If it is cutting, it will create a stream.

When the sanding disc is working there will be a dust stream coming off the wood.
Seems like what you said in just about the same words.

 

[odie]

OK, I'll try to clarify. Since we know, and I agree with your statement that the final results will be the same regardless of which particular sandpaper you use, my question is do you prefer some particular sandpaper over the others for some other reason that has nothing to do with expecting better final results. I had a couple thoughts such as price and familiarity with a particular brand. I tossed in color of paper for a bit of nonsense and nothing serious.

Since then, I saw that you had mentioned Finkat because you thought that it was a little better than what you currently use and it appears that you mean it sands the wood faster. Does it seem to stay sharp longer? Is price a factor also? I've never heard of this brand and wondering if there is a special source or have I just been asleep lately?

OK, thanks Bill........

I've been using the Norton 3X paper for quite a long time (somewhere in the 90's), and am very satisfied with it. A few years ago, tried the Finkat. I've compared these two side by side, and my impression is that the performance of the Finkat is a little faster cutting, and may last a little longer. Like I say, this is my impression, and definitely not a scientific study. The difference isn't a big one, and this one product has a direct impact on my physical ability to do this step in producing my bowls.......my fingers have a hard time standing up to the pressure of hand sanding the interiors of bowls, so this influences my decision to go with the Finkat. I'm in the process of changing to the Finkat. I often look over my supplies of discs and sheet abrasives when I do an order to CSUSA, and stock up when it looks like it's getting low. I usually have one opened box of 3X sandpaper, and one to three unopened boxes, so the switch will take some time to do.

The Finkat is a little more expensive, but not so much more that it's a big factor.

I suppose I'm a little prejudiced towards industrial products made in Japan, and it's my personal feelings that many things now made in Japan reflect a certain pride that is being lost on many USA made products. This same statement can be said about products made worldwide, but Japan seems to be holding onto that sense of pride in quality that is overtaking the industrial strategy nearly everywhere. There are also high quality USA products, and the same can be said about some products from nearly every country, but price seems to be the overruling factor, where Japan seems to be less so. This probably didn't influence my decision to go with the Finkat very much, but I'm definitely someone who has admired how well it seems the Japanese have maintained their national pride reflected in the quality of their industrial products.

I've been purchasing Finkat from CSUSA, but a quick search shows it available from a number of sources. MSC has it, and is a great source of industrial equipment and supplies.......

ooc

 

[Bill Boehme]

Thanks for the information, Odie.

Maybe not too surprisingly, Japan has suffered some of the same problems with job loss to China and other places that have cheap labor. This is especially true in electronics, but its affecting them in many other manufacturing sectors as well.

 

[Jerry Bailey]

very nice thread and conversations
coming from a different trade, I have always been used to Klingspor
since trying turning, my 1st experience has been with Mirka Abranet (and do like them)
but will have to give the Finkat a try also and see if it makes any difference to me personally.

 

[robo hippy]

For cloud/plume vs stream of dust, it depends on how effective your sanding hood is.

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZsVc7qVx7A


robo hippy

 

[KellyDunn]

1st off, to Breck Whitworth. Your statement about abrasives was verbatim from Dale Nish. Give the man credit due please.
Speed and bowl style. Dry wood versus wood with a bit or wet wood need different treatments in sanding. And as a production turner power sanding beats the pants off hand holding a yank of abrasive to the wood. Different strokes. Some styles of bowls need the highest speed you can go without it blowing up. And a low sanding speed. Out of round need a very low speed and enough power speed so the disc does not bounce. Really wet wood say 500 rpm but keep you cleaner rubber handy. Depending on style of turning. A kiln dried bowl you can really pack some sanding heat to it with no checks. Its a science that each has to learn themselves for the kind of turning they do. But its wood. Which means your gonna get surprised.
But a great subject with plenty of subtle aspects to chat about.

 

[odie]

1st off, to Breck Whitworth. Your statement about abrasives was verbatim from Dale Nish. Give the man credit due please.
Speed and bowl style. Dry wood versus wood with a bit or wet wood need different treatments in sanding. And as a production turner power sanding beats the pants off hand holding a yank of abrasive to the wood. Different strokes. Some styles of bowls need the highest speed you can go without it blowing up. And a low sanding speed. Out of round need a very low speed and enough power speed so the disc does not bounce. Really wet wood say 500 rpm but keep you cleaner rubber handy. Depending on style of turning. A kiln dried bowl you can really pack some sanding heat to it with no checks. Its a science that each has to learn themselves for the kind of turning they do. But its wood. Which means your gonna get surprised.
But a great subject with plenty of subtle aspects to chat about.

Howdy Kelly......

You are certainly right that what works for one, may not be true for everyone. I don't wet sand at all.....My usual method is to rough turn, season to stabilization, finish turn, and sand the dry bowl. My procedures for sanding are only applicable to those who sand dry wood. Even then, there will be some variation according to personal preference. There is no right or wrong, it's all a matter of perspective, personal techniques......and results are the only thing that count!

.....okes. Some styles of bowls need the highest speed you can go without it blowing up. And a low sanding speed. Out of ro....

I do want to clarify for those who are learning, that which I've made bold in your post. If I'm wrong, let me know, but I believe your meaning is that certain styles of bowls may be best turned (with lathe tools) at higher speeds......but, the sanding is always done at slow speeds.

Have a good day combing the beaches in your cut-offs and sandals.......we have about 6-8 inches of fresh snow this morning!

ooc

 

[KellyDunn]

Odie,
I do some very thin walled bowls. To clean up small undulations I have a tapered goblet buffer I wrap a piece of 5 inch psa paper around it. The way the paper is wrapped makes it hop on the bowl surface. If I say have the lathe speed at 500 rpm and then drill speed with the sandpaper covered buffer at anything over a very slow speed the bouncing can break the bowl. So I do maybe 900 rpm for the lathe and barely any rotation on the drill holding the buffer. A tapered goblet buffer has a straight edge. So I do move the buffer up and down the bowl walls to straighten out those small undulations. Another bowl style I speed up the lathe for is natural edge and bark pockets. Fast so the paper does not dig into or catch on a hole in the bowl side. I do however only sand up to the nearest natural edge under power. I stationary sand any points from there to the rim. Multiple reasons. A catch will destroy the bowl and maybe hurt me. A high point in a natural edge piece will get sanded more than a lower point so will be thinner. I use my judgement on any bowl as to whats safe for me. If a hole in the bowl side is large then maybe all of the inside gets sanded stationary. I dont want to get hurt and I want the bowl walls to be even. So for those two bowl types I am using a made up sander. Not standard velcro holders. As you know sanding is an art and what to do in any given situation comes from years of doing it. I suggest to any newbie to err heavy on the be safe side. If it scares you sand with the lathe off.

 

[odie]

Odie,
I do some very thin walled bowls. To clean up small undulations I have a tapered goblet buffer I wrap a piece of 5 inch psa paper around it. The way the paper is wrapped makes it hop on the bowl surface. If I say have the lathe speed at 500 rpm and then drill speed with the sandpaper covered buffer at anything over a very slow speed the bouncing can break the bowl. So I do maybe 900 rpm for the lathe and barely any rotation on the drill holding the buffer. A tapered goblet buffer has a straight edge. So I do move the buffer up and down the bowl walls to straighten out those small undulations. Another bowl style I speed up the lathe for is natural edge and bark pockets. Fast so the paper does not dig into or catch on a hole in the bowl side. I do however only sand up to the nearest natural edge under power. I stationary sand any points from there to the rim. Multiple reasons. A catch will destroy the bowl and maybe hurt me. A high point in a natural edge piece will get sanded more than a lower point so will be thinner. I use my judgement on any bowl as to whats safe for me. If a hole in the bowl side is large then maybe all of the inside gets sanded stationary. I dont want to get hurt and I want the bowl walls to be even. So for those two bowl types I am using a made up sander. Not standard velcro holders. As you know sanding is an art and what to do in any given situation comes from years of doing it. I suggest to any newbie to err heavy on the be safe side. If it scares you sand with the lathe off.

Thanks for the come-back, Kelly......that was very enlightening. I think I just learned something, and your post is worth five stars... *****

ooc