Saw Buck

[Richard Marsh]

I am a relatively new bowl turner and up to now have managed to get wood a piece or two by the curb here and there sufficient to meet my needs. My practice up to now has been to cut blanks stacked on waste logs at ground level. This has worked fine for a piece or two but is not kind to the back. My neighbor is taking down a good size cherry tree and has invited me to take as much as I want. I figure its now worth while to find a more ergonomical/safe method to cut blanks from logs. Does anyone have any suggested designs that have worked well for them?
Thanks,
Richard

 

[Rick M]

Check out the Log Holder on page 12 of the Bayou Woodturners Oct '09 club newsletter. It looks kinda crude, but I've seen it and can say it does a good job of improving comfort, too, by allowing you to cut standing upright.

One minor modification--adding a small notch at the bottom of each V would allow a bit more clearance for the saw chain when cutting lengthwise. Choice of casters may differ depending on the rolling ease of your workspace flooring.

 

[john lucas]

I just use an old log that is about knee high. I put my wood on that and saw it up. I do have a wooden stand that I built and thought I would use. Occasionally I do use it but not very often. It looks impressive sitting in the driveway though.

 

[Joe Greiner]

This ( http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/chainsaw-use-revisited-47976/ )
refers to this ( http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/chainsaw-use-43742/ ),
which refers to this ( http://www.laymar-crafts.co.uk/tip33.htm ),
which refers to the AAW Journal Winter 2006 (Vol. 21, No. 4, pp. 64-5).

As I admitted in the first thread above, my contraption is a bit over-engineered, but I've found it very versatile for shapes other than bowl blanks. Any of the links above should be satisfactory, more so if raised higher.

The Bayou apparatus is a lot like the one in the Journal, but with timber sticks instead of pipes.

 

[Dave Moore]

Like John, I just use an section of log stood on its end.
It starts out about 36 inches long or so. I cut a vee-groove in the top so I can lay log sections in it for trimming without them rolling around.

When the top gets all scarred up eventually and it gets harder to stand a log up straight or whatever, I just slice off about three or four inches and start over. When it's so short that it makes me bend over too much, I get a fresh one and the old one goes in the woodstove.

Never have to worry about cutting into it accidentally.

What's handy too is that I can "custom" trim it with the chainsaw on the spot if I need to hold some oddball shaped thing, like a weird crotch or whatever.

Another good thing; if it needs moved I just tip it over and kick it so it rolls where I want then stand it up. Never have to pick it up or drag it.

I think if I were to design something from scratch that would do all that, it would end up looking like a log stood on end, with a vee-cut in the top, y'know?

 

[Dave Peebles]

Hi Richard,

Here is one I built a few years ago. It is pretty simple and is made from 6x8 treated timbers. I used some all thread to keep things pulled together. I just made sure I kept the all thread down low to prevent accidentally hitting it with the chainsaw. It is still going strong.

Best wishes,

Dave

 

[Bob Borzelleri]

I bought one of these back when they were $89.00. I guess the dollar is doing poorly against the kroner.

I've certainly gotten my money's worth out of it. It does top out at 9", though.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15730

 

[Vaughn]

I built something along the lines of what Rick posted the link to. It's been real handy.



I use it oriented as in the photos, and also lay it on its side to hold large blanks flat while I lop off the corners with the chainsaw. I used all-thread with nuts and lock washers at each end to connect the pieces, and chainsaw-friendly 1" PVC spacers over the all-thread. (The chain still hasn't hit them after a couple of years, though.) The plywood's a lot more chewed up now than it was when I took these photos, but it still does what I need it to do.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Here's another apparatus for holding a chunk of wood in almost every way possible, for cutting with a chain saw. This is for heavy-duty production.

http://timberssoul.webs.com/jvlogvicesteelarmshel.htm

 

[Sandy Jarrell]

Richard, this is the sawhorse I built specifically for bucking and then ripping large logs with a chainsaw. I got the plans for it from this website http://www.woodturningonline.com/Turning/Turning_content/sawhorse.pdf

 

[hockenbery]

Like John, I just use an section of log stood on its end.
It starts out about 36 inches long or so. I cut a vee-groove in the top so I can lay log sections in it for trimming without them rolling around.

like John and Dave.

A vee in the top of a sturdy log section set on it end will hold a logs for cross cutting, rounds for ripping
or a half logs for rounding.

simple to make, easy to use, does everything cost nothing
no bolts or nails (unless they were in the tree)
time to make 45 seconds and 15 of those are staring the saw.

happy turning
Al

 

[MichaelMouse]

Remember, the one that's easiest on your back while cutting is the toughest on your back to load. Nice long bar and a slab with wedges suits me.

Of course, a bucket on the tractor is a good thing when it comes to lifting.

 

[n7bsn]

Mine is also based on the AAW design, only knowing me, I ditched the all-thread and went with 2x4s

Mine is sized to fit on top of my short (18 inch) saw horses

Ralph