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Scrapers/Gouges...

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I didn't read the Losing the Battle thread down below till yesterday, and paused to think about it for a bit, then this morning, ready to respond, I found it 'closed to further comments'... Harumpff!!! I was out of town, and out of contact for a bit, and that is probably why I missed it...

So, when demonstrating, the main thing I do differently on bowl turning is my preference for scrapers for all of my heavy roughing and for all of my shear scraping. "When I started, I didn't know the difference between a gouge or a scraper, and could gouge equally deep holes with either tool." We all use what works best for us. Now, for those that don't like the scrapers, the comment I get that I have never understood is that "scrapers don't cut/slice, they scrape." It makes no sense to me from the point of view "if they don't cut, then how come I can get long ribbons of shavings from them???"

I do consider the article from Russ to be very out dated, as in BCBN or before CBN wheels. That totally changed the burrs we get on our scrapers. Another 'new' development is the metals we are using a lot more, like the M42 and the V10, which were pretty experimental at the time. I do think I had my first CBN wheels about this time... So, the broken over wave is much more typical of the standard grinding wheels, and the burrs from the CBN wheels are more upright rather than hooked. The CBN wheel can produce a very fine and very sturdy burr for cutting, and depending on how fine of a CBN wheel you use, you can get glass smooth surfaces, as clean as any cut you can get with a gouge. The most important part of the cutting edge is presentation as in the higher the shear angle, the cleaner the cut. The particular tool is not the issue, the edge and presentation is.

Hmm, well maybe we should add in not only presentation, but the presenter... We have all seen masters of a particular tool that we have 'issues' with and they make it look easy. Then, when we take it upon ourselves to try again, it isn't that easy after all. This is called experience. With some coaching and mentoring, we can all get better.

I don't think there is any right or wrong way to turn, unless you are blowing things up and having things come flying off the lathe. The destination is the goal, how we get there, well, "All of the creator's children are different, and some of us are more different than others." Why yes, I am! I can't think of any thing that has only one approach when solving any problem...

Now, for me, I don't use swept back gouges at all, and haven't for some years. Why? I consider them to be more of an all purpose tool, where, for me, the specialty tools can do some parts better... Now have I opened another can of worms??? Well, I can use worms, how about catfish bait: the more it stinks the better it works!!!

robo hippy
 
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You won't catch any catfish with this post... No dirt, no stink, no worms.
Results are what matter and there is technique for any/every tool. My favorite tools are 1) My first regular grind 1/2 inch Sorby gouge 2) My HEAVY DUTY Thompson roughing gouge 3) scrapers 4) Veritas Scraper Burnisher (couldn't live without it now that I've started using it).
I should say, that I have dozens of gouges, mostly Thompson and dozens of scrapers... Many of them made from old Craftsman screwdrivers (high vanadium steel) because they were cheap and expendable and I was POOR Some of them are still in my rack because they meet a particular need.
Well balanced, well reasoned post (IMO)
 

john lucas

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Well I use my Thompson 1/2" bowl gouge, My Henry Taylor bowl gouge with Stewart Batty Grind, and my Thompson 3/8" detail gouge for almost all of my work. I do use the Hunter Osprey and Hunter #5 a lot for finish work. I use the Hunter Hercules for roughing really out of round bowls. You use this tool like a scraper but it cuts cleaner and of course never needs sharpening. I rarely use scrapers anymore. I do shear scrape occasionally on my hand mirrors when the surface has some undulations or a small torn area that just won't cut clean. I use a round nose negative rake scraper for some pieces but it doesn't see much use. I still prefer to cut the wood instead of scrape. It just leaves a better surface so requires less work when I get to the sanding phase.
 

Bill Boehme

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You use this tool like a scraper but it cuts cleaner and of course never needs sharpening.

I would phrase that as "can't be sharpened ... at least not in the normal sense considering the sharpening tools that woodturners have at their disposal. That's not the same thing as never needing to be sharpened or replaced.

I have no experience with Hunter carbide tools, but I have a Rolly Munro hollower and several other carbide tools (EWT, Capt. Eddie, Rockler, and maybe a few others). They all get dull and much sooner than the advertising leads one to believe. They are great when dealing with very hard wood or wood that has a high mineral content.
 
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I would phrase that as "can't be sharpened ... at least not in the normal sense considering the sharpening tools that woodturners have at their disposal. That's not the same thing as never needing to be sharpened or replaced.

I have no experience with Hunter carbide tools, but I have a Rolly Munro hollower and several other carbide tools (EWT, Capt. Eddie, Rockler, and maybe a few others). They all get dull and much sooner than the advertising leads one to believe. They are great when dealing with very hard wood or wood that has a high mineral content.
Bill the Hunter carbides last much longer than any other . It is a different grade of carbide and really lasts a long time before complete replacement. Even resistance to chipping (of the carbide) is better with Hunter tools. Yes I have tried some others.
 

Bill Boehme

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Bill the Hunter carbides last much longer than any other . It is a different grade of carbide and really lasts a long time before complete replacement. Even resistance to chipping (of the carbide) is better with Hunter tools. Yes I have tried some others.

That's good to hear (or read). Although I need another turning tool like I need another hole in my head, I am intrigued by what I have heard and read about the Hunter tools. And, who knows ... it might be the tool that will lead me to finally achieve the greatness that heretofore has been so elusive.
 
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Question Bill....how many tools and how much wood have you acquired (did not say bought) while you have been out of action with shoulder?????
 
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That's good to hear (or read). Although I need another turning tool like I need another hole in my head, I am intrigued by what I have heard and read about the Hunter tools. And, who knows ... it might be the tool that will lead me to finally achieve the greatness that heretofore has been so elusive.
You can never have too many turning tools, chucks, wood, etc. It is the same with fishing tackle, hunting gear, golf clubs, etc. The one who dies with the most, wins! Got a HF set which, for me, is OK for now. I do have my eyes on a making a narrow parting tool per John Lucas' suggestion, and maybe another bowl gouge. My wife spends our $$$$ foolishly on things like food, clothing and shelter.
 

john lucas

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The Hunter tools out of the box are extremely sharp and stay that way for a very long time. My first one was a #4 and I used it off and on for 2 years before changing the cutter. I only changed it then because I was doing a demo with Mike Hunter and thought that I should have the sharpest tool I could for the demo. Now if you use the tool full time you would undoubtedly need to replace it sooner. I use my Osprey a lot for final cuts on my mirrors and have not even rotated it to a new edge yet. I need to. Mike Suggests rotating it regularly so it gets over all duller. It's so hard to tell where you rotated it too the last time. I did find that the EZ wood tool that I have got surprisingly dull very quickly. Still scrapes and removes wood fairly quickly but nearly as sharp as it was when new and I've hardly used it. On the other hand I have roughed out a fair number of bowls using my Hunter Hercules and I taught 3 classes using nothing but the Hunter tools so 3 different students used my Hercules for a whole day and I used it just yesterday when turning a platter to compare it to Viceroy and it still cut very clean. The Hunter carbides are definitely in a field of their own. And you are correct Bill. I should use the term can't be sharpened or disposable. I tried sharpening them with all sorts of abrasives that I got from RioGRande jewelry supply and other places and whatever I used just seemed to chip the cutter.
 

odie

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My wife spends our $$$$ foolishly on things like food, clothing and shelter.

That was worth a LOL! Ha,ha........:D Yeah, I know what you mean about spending recklessly on wood turning tools.......but, the good news is that behavior does slow down somewhat after about 25 years, or so! :rolleyes: Yes, compadre'.......there is a light at the end of the tunnel! (Empty pockets help to keep that torch lit! o_O) There doesn't seem to be any relief in sight from spending on things like wood, sandpaper, glue, finish.....and, things like that, though! :p

-----odie-----
 
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Hmm, well maybe we should add in not only presentation, but the presenter... We have all seen masters of a particular tool that we have 'issues' with and they make it look easy. Then, when we take it upon ourselves to try again, it isn't that easy after all. This is called experience. With some coaching and mentoring, we can all get better.

Very well said.
 
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Regarding quality of carbide inserts and dulling, etc.

There's a big problem right now. Korloy is one of major suppliers of the "high positive" style inserts like those used by Hunter. My local industrial tooling house sells Korloy inserts in ten packs at around $20 per insert. But then I go to eBay and find the supposedly same inserts out of China with free shipping for less than $20 for a pack of ten. The Chinese versions even have identical packaging as the real thing.

Inserts themselves are usually not marked so if even a manufacturer of turning tools or a user has a package of Korloy inserts how is he going to know if they're the real thing or a low quality Chinese knockoff?

I have read on a hobbyist machining site that the Chinese Korloy inserts are "good enough" for hobby work.

I have Walter brand high positive inserts that last a long time cutting hard exotic woods. I believe Walter inserts are out of Germany and to my knowledge they haven't been copied by the Chinese.....yet.
 

john lucas

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I'm pretty sure that the Hunter tips are Mike's own alloy, If alloy is the term to use. As I understand it he had them made to his own blend of materials. I don't believe they are the same (other than shape) as the ones used in the metal industry.
 

hockenbery

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Everyone has a different experience set and any statement about tool effectiveness should be in context with the objects and wood being turned.

Example 1 fun little goblets
Shorter one is 2.5” D 4.25” H turned from green live oak sanded to 320
Taller turned from green laurel oak not sanded04A2FD08-EB30-41C0-AAA9-575B7B159103.jpeg
Inside the bowl of the live oak84DB1C07-1D29-49A6-94EA-18BE83ABAD66.jpeg

Tools I usedA07EDDE7-0F70-48FA-8B80-B4D30579FB66.jpeg left to right parting tool used as a scraper, hunter #4 used as a shear scraper,
3/8” spindle gouge, 1/2” bowl gouge (5/8” diameter bar) with Ellsworth grind.

Hunter #4 – step 3 finish the bowl inside sand with 320
3/8” spindle gouge – step 2 rough hollow the bowl
Step 5 finish turn the outside of the bowl sand with 320
Step 6-7 turn the stem and the base sand with 320
½” bowl gouge Ellsworth grind – step 1 rough shape leave thick
Step 4 rough shape the outside of the bowl
Step 6-7 turn the stem and base sand with 320 alternate with the spindle gouge most of the stem can be done with the bowl gouge
Parting tool – under cut the base & sand with 120, 220, 320
 

hockenbery

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Everyone has a different experience set and any statement about tool effectiveness should be in context with the objects and wood being turned.
Example 2. Natural edge bowls from medium density hardwoods. This is one from campho C6DFCA94-20E4-43E5-96F6-2E4ED5371BA7.jpeg

Tools left to right round nose scraper, 3/8” spindle gouge, 1/2” bowl gouge (5/8” Dia bar) Ellsworth grind 69845EA5-DF83-427B-87F2-48DBB6E6F864.jpeg
3/8” Spindle gouge used for the tenon
Scraper used for the inside bottom if needed ( about 1 in 5 bowls)
½” bowl gouges used for every thing else.
 

Bill Boehme

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I'm pretty sure that the Hunter tips are Mike's own alloy, If alloy is the term to use. As I understand it he had them made to his own blend of materials. I don't believe they are the same (other than shape) as the ones used in the metal industry.

I think that you might have misinterpreted what Mike said.
 
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Fred Here is my video on using the #4 cutter. I never use it flat. Always as a bevel rubbing tool rotated either left or right. That and the #5 are my go to tools for finishing all of my box interiors. It leaves the bottom super smooth and the walls almost as smooth.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfp2kvhH6Mo&t=460s

Thanks John. I will give it some more practice. You make it look easy. I notice that I get pretty tense when using it.
 
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I'm pretty sure that the Hunter tips are Mike's own alloy, If alloy is the term to use. As I understand it he had them made to his own blend of materials. I don't believe they are the same (other than shape) as the ones used in the metal industry.

It seems like having inserts specially made would be awfully expensive in what I assume would be relatively limited quantities. And he does sell them at about the industry average price of around $20.

There usually are choices in carbides, the common grades like.C2, C5, etc. So he probably makes a choice in that way and even in any coating he wants. If you know him maybe you could ask for details about exactly what he uses (it's understandable he might not want that to be information available to his competitors though).
 

Bill Boehme

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It seems like having inserts specially made would be awfully expensive in what I assume would be relatively limited quantities. And he does sell them at about the industry average price of around $20.

There usually are choices in carbides, the common grades like.C2, C5, etc. So he probably makes a choice in that way and even in any coating he wants. If you know him maybe you could ask for details about exactly what he uses (it's understandable he might not want that to be information available to his competitors though).

An example would be FC3M which is the hardest most wear resistant grade made by Federal Carbide.
 
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Okay John Lucas, now you have to micro photo all the 'micro/nano' grained carbides....... Almost too many choices to make. I still have to get a flat carbide tip to see if I can burnish a burr on it. Yes, I know 'theoretically' it is impossible, but I have done the impossible before... Won't believe it till I have tried it.

robo hippy
 

john lucas

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Doug Mike Hunter used to work in the carbide industry before retirement. And he sell an amazing number of his tools. I thought turning tools were a pretty small market. Well maybe small by some standards but sure sounded like a lot to me.
Reed I wish I had ready access to the SCM so I could do micro photographs of a bunch of steels. I pushed my welcome about as far as I dare. He normally charges $135 an hours for that work but did those for free so I don't want to take advantage of him. Of course if anyone wants to foot the bill I will do some more testing if my friend Wayne's schedule would let him. It's amazing the number of people trying to book the SCM on a daily basis. He did mine at 7:30 in the morning so it didn't interrupt his schedule. Of course how sharp it gets is only a small part of the story. How well they hold an edge is what needs to be done but after talking to several engineer friends who do similar studies there are simply too many variables so testing accurately would be incredibly time consuming and difficult.
 

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Okay John Lucas, now you have to micro photo all the 'micro/nano' grained carbides....... Almost too many choices to make. I still have to get a flat carbide tip to see if I can burnish a burr on it. Yes, I know 'theoretically' it is impossible, but I have done the impossible before... Won't believe it till I have tried it......

Some things aren't malleable. We can't burnish a concrete slab or a diamond or a piece of pottery once it has been fired. I know I won't change your mind.

I once had a rocket motor control vane from a Scout launch vehicle sitting on my desk. It was made of pure tungsten, a metal that is heavier than lead and so hard it is almost impossible to machine even using diamond cutters. It was used in the rocket motor exhaust where the temperature is several thousand degrees and, interestingly, the higher the temperature, the tougher tungsten becomes. It was sitting on my desk because somebody accidentally dropped it and it broke like glass. it's very interesting that tungsten is so hard and tough and able to withstand extreme temperatures and yet is so brittle that a three foot drop would cause it to shatter. Carbon is another interesting element. Not quite a metal and able to have such a wide range of characteristics from diamonds to graphite. Tungsten carbide really isn't a metal, but microscopic particles can be compressed into various shapes and then cemented with cobalt, nickel, and/or chromium.It looks like metal, but if you've ever dropped a tungsten carbide milling cutter or router bit, you know not to look down because you know that it has broken like glass. :eek:

Doug Mike Hunter used to work in the carbide industry before retirement. And he sell an amazing number of his tools. I thought turning tools were a pretty small market. Well maybe small by some standards but sure sounded like a lot to me.
Reed I wish I had ready access to the SCM so I could do micro photographs of a bunch of steels. I pushed my welcome about as far as I dare. He normally charges $135 an hours for that work but did those for free so I don't want to take advantage of him. Of course if anyone wants to foot the bill I will do some more testing if my friend Wayne's schedule would let him. It's amazing the number of people trying to book the SCM on a daily basis. He did mine at 7:30 in the morning so it didn't interrupt his schedule. Of course how sharp it gets is only a small part of the story. How well they hold an edge is what needs to be done but after talking to several engineer friends who do similar studies there are simply too many variables so testing accurately would be incredibly time consuming and difficult.

Yea, there really isn't a quantifiable term for sharpness. We can look at an edge at high magnification in a scanning electron microscope, but comparing near perfect looking edges is somewhat of an apples and oranges comparison if the angles are different or if the material being cut isn't the same.for two identical edges. Then there are the wildcards ... the difference in turning styles of different individuals and the almost limitless variations in the wood that we turn. When we decide to sharpen ... how we sharpen ...the lathe speed ... the list goes on and on ... some things are quantifiable, but most things aren't. What would an answer tell us anyway? Buy more tools seems to be the most likely answer. :D :)
 

john lucas

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Yea I think the answer is to have a dozen tools of different metals and sharpness angles and then change tools after each cut. If a dozen isn't enough to finish the bowl than probably 2 dozen. After all it's only money. Not sure what money is but I hear other people talk about it and apparently it's useful.
 
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My curiosity about burnishing carbide is that I can burnish a burr on Tantung (Big Ugly cutting metal) which I would not consider to be malleable, but I can. It is brittle and will break/chip if I drop it. It also hones nicely. I do know that concrete is flexible, but particles are too big to bend... I don't think ceramic blades would be able to burnish because it is too brittle that way as well.... I will let you know when I try...

robo hippy
 
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To add to this, IMHO there are two degrees of sharp- there is sharp and there is scary sharp. My grandfather's Barlow knife was scary sharp. He would test the blade by shaving the hair off the back of his hand.
 

Martin Groneng

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Nothing wrong with that John, I do that all the time. When somebody says this tool/knife is sharp, It's a quick lick to the top of my arm and passage of the knife at the "right" angle and if it does not cut the hair.............. Hey, Bud, this knife is NOT sharp!!! Don't you know what sharp is?
 

john lucas

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Martin After doing my test on the different steels and using the BESS tester to actually test the sharpeness I find that there are even differences in razor sharp. A double edge razor for example measured around 60 grams. A single edge razor measure around 120 if remember correctly. A utility razor measured around 200 grams. All of them shave hair. A don't have a scalpel but will try to get one measure that. A lot of the difference is the sharpening angle of the cutting edge. The utility razor was much less acute and I'm sure holds an edge a lot better. A single edge razor loses it's edge pretty quickly.
 
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John, I remember hearing years ago that surgeons didn't like obsidian flakes for cutting because they were too sharp. Some thing about because they flake off, the edges go down to molecular levels for thickness or thinness... Saw a napper knock a flake off and it sank about 1/2 inch into a piece of plywood...

robo hippy
 

john lucas

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I learned to knap flint a long time ago. Very interesting. The guy who teaches it at one of the national parks had everyone using coke bottle pieces because it knapped very similar to the way fling did. Then I tried some fling when I got home. I looked at a chipped Hunter tool up real close and many (not all) of the chips resembled the knapped flint. The gullet of the chip was actually sharp. this was a cutter that i had been using for 2 years off and on and it still cut pretty well. I pulled it off to put a new cutter on because I could see the chips. The new cutter did cut better but I was still amazed that the old cutter would even cut much less cut well enough that I didn't change the blade for that reason alone.
 
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