So frustrated and so (bleeped) re: buffing

[john lucas]

Grant depends on the brand. The lacquer I'm using now (which is locally made and they don't ship) will get hard enough to buff overnight. I used to use Deft lacquer and it had to sit at least 3 days before you could buff it. And that's with my 4" wheels at 1200 rpm. If you used 1725 with 8" wheels it would burn through Deft in a heart beat.

 

[Bill Boehme]

This looks similar to what I have. https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/39/4477/Hold-Fast-Long-Buffing-Adapter My adaptor was made by Don Pencil but I could not get his website to open up.

I have some of the Don Pencil adapters that I bought a dozen years ago. His website has been a mess for several years and I have read on several forums that getting anything from him has been a difficult and mostly unproductive experience.

 

[Jamie Straw]

This looks similar to what I have. https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/39/4477/Hold-Fast-Long-Buffing-Adapter My adaptor was made by Don Pencil but I could not get his website to open up.

Thanks, John. I read the reviews, and it appears that the Beall mops fit that buffing adapter. Kind of a bummer that Beall themselves don't sell it. Seems if I get that and three 4" wheels, I'll be good to go.

 

[Jamie Straw]

I tried the 3 buff mandrel, but quickly found that the buffs were too close together for anything but very small pieces. I bought a used, low speed 6" grinder, mounted the Beall adapter to one side and go with individual buffs that screw onto that adapter. It takes seconds to change them out. Beall says that 1725 rpm is fine with their buffs and I've had good results with both the buff wheels and the balls for the inside of bowls.

I started out pushing too hard, but quickly learned from my mistake. I also learned that pre-cat lacquer is not hard enough to buff the day after I spray it.

I'll keep an eye out on Craig's List in case one of those shows up. With JL's help (the link he posted) I can get on course using the lathe, but not the taper, and then take my time in finding a useful, affordable motor. Can't say I've ever seen a 6" grinder in slow speed, but if you can find one, so can I!

 

[dickhob]

you can also check Packard toolworks-

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...de=packard&Product_Code=120952&Category_Code=

or do a search for "buffing" on their site.

I've used this setup for years and like John, will attest to its usefulness and ease of use.

Dick

 

[john lucas]

I searched Packards website and could not find that adaptor. Glad you did.

 

[odie]

Don't forget that Beall has an extension that fits the regular mandrel......Total length is 6 3/4". I have never had any instances where the extra 1 1/4" of the 8" extensions were needed. Some of you may want the 8" extension, if you do vases....but, remember that the longer the extension, the more unstable it will be.....so, the optimum length will be as long as is necessary to do what your want, but not any longer than that. If the standard mandrel without any extension will do the job, that's the one that will be best to do the job......and for 90% of the time, it's the one that works best.

There is a little PVC mount on the side of the buffing machine, so that the short extension is handy, and quick to screw on the standard Beall mandrel when it's needed.

I have the morse taper mandrel for the lathe, but in all this time, I've used it maybe once or twice. Looking back now, I would not have bought it. The free standing buffer is soooo much better!

There is also a full length photo of the buffing machine, as it is today. As you can see, there has been modifications and adaptations to better suit it's use as a bowl buffing machine......plus a whole slew of stick-em notes that remind me of things that need to be foremost in my mentality when I buff!

ko

 

[Jamie Straw]

you can also check Packard toolworks-

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...de=packard&Product_Code=120952&Category_Code=

or do a search for "buffing" on their site.

I've used this setup for years and like John, will attest to its usefulness and ease of use.

Dick

Thanks, Dick, theirs is several dollars less, will check on shipping. Haven't bought anything from Packard for a long time.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Don't forget that Beall has an extension that fits the regular mandrel......Total length is 6 3/4". I have never had any instances where the extra 1 1/4" of the 8" extensions were needed. Some of you may want the 8" extension, if you do vases....but, remember that the longer the extension, the more unstable it will be.....so, the optimum length will be as long as is necessary to do what your want, but not any longer than that. If the standard mandrel without any extension will do the job, that's the one that will be best to do the job......and for 90% of the time, it's the one that works best. [Snip]
ko

Wow, cool pics, Odie, thanks! In my particular case, I'm not looking primarily for extension, but for spindle-thread mounting. If there was a 6"-ish threaded extension, I'd buy it, but looks like 8" is what's available. Love your sticky notes! Especially the one about covering zipper. For me, I have to watch that I don't clank a nice piece of wood against a belt-buckle.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Wow, cool pics, Odie, thanks! In my particular case, I'm not looking primarily for extension, but for spindle-thread mounting. If there was a 6"-ish threaded extension, I'd buy it, but looks like 8" is what's available. Love your sticky notes! Especially the one about covering zipper. For me, I have to watch that I don't clank a nice piece of wood against a belt-buckle.

Of note ; the Beal extension which fits on a mandrel has a sleeve allowing you to mount on a buffer with set screws to tighten the fit. Then you can add the extra extension ig you need it.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Of note ; the Beal extension which fits on a mandrel has a sleeve allowing you to mount on a buffer with set screws to tighten the fit. Then you can add the extra extension ig you need it.

The terms (names for parts) in Beall's catalog have the items assembling thusly:

• Buffing Mandrel
• 1/2" - 5/8" adapter (which Gerald may be calling "the Beal extension")
• then either the Bowl Buff of choice, or the Buffing Mandrel Extension (of which Odie spoke, 6-3/4" long), and then the buff

The Adapter is held onto the MT Buffing Mandrel with 2 set screws. If you want to mount to a motor shaft, there's a sleeve to reduce the size if the original is too big.

I appreciate their videos, which I did not know about until mentioned in this thread. What would be more immediately helpful would be quick-look diagrams that show the different parts, with their names and order of attachment. All of this seems very simple once it's understood, but "Greek to me" when I've never seen a buffing set-up. I'm now the proud owner of two parts that I really won't need. Such is life.

PS: Correct me if I'm wrong

 

[dickhob]

John
Click on the link in my post and you should bring up the extension. If you search "buffing" you'll get a table with mandrels, wheels, and compounds.

Odie
I really haven't seen any stability problems with the 8" extension- its a hefty piece of aluminium.

At the risk of derailing this thread- How hard do you guys press the work to the wheel?

I've burned thru a finish or two, so I don't get too carried away pressing the piece to the wheel. The variable speed of the lathe provides a lot of opportunity to adjust the hardness of the buffing surface.

Dick

 

[Jamie Straw]

Join the train!

John
[Snip]
At the risk of derailing this thread- How hard do you guys press the work to the wheel?

Dick

This thread is providing a wealth of info on the logistics of buffing. This OP would not consider additional info to be "derailing."

 

[odie]

Wow, cool pics, Odie, thanks! In my particular case, I'm not looking primarily for extension, but for spindle-thread mounting. If there was a 6"-ish threaded extension, I'd buy it, but looks like 8" is what's available. Love your sticky notes! Especially the one about covering zipper. For me, I have to watch that I don't clank a nice piece of wood against a belt-buckle.

You are welcome, Jamie.......I never thought anyone else would be reading my notes when I wrote them, and I suppose I must clarify what zipper I meant! I often wear sweatshirt like shirts with an exposed zipper up the front. Since I brace the bowl against my body, there have been times that I've scratched up the surface of a bowl while Beall buffing. It's happened more than once, so it required something to remind me of this problem.

John
Click on the link in my post and you should bring up the extension. If you search "buffing" you'll get a table with mandrels, wheels, and compounds.

Odie
I really haven't seen any stability problems with the 8" extension- its a hefty piece of aluminium.

At the risk of derailing this thread- How hard do you guys press the work to the wheel?

I've burned thru a finish or two, so I don't get too carried away pressing the piece to the wheel. The variable speed of the lathe provides a lot of opportunity to adjust the hardness of the buffing surface.

Dick

Dick......When I first started using the Beall buffing system, I pressed much harder than was necessary. I also "loaded" up the wheels more than was necessary. It took a little practice to get to the point where I realized that light pressure, and sparingly using the compounds works very well. I remember seeing the advertisement that stated some surface scratches could be removed with the EEE compounds, and I expected more results towards this end, than can be realistically achieved. In trying to make this work to remove tiny surface scratches, I did press too hard. It's better to find some other way to remove these scratches PRIOR to using the Beall system......

ko

 

[Hy Tran]

Wow, cool pics, Odie, thanks! In my particular case, I'm not looking primarily for extension, but for spindle-thread mounting. If there was a 6"-ish threaded extension, I'd buy it, but looks like 8" is what's available. Love your sticky notes! Especially the one about covering zipper. For me, I have to watch that I don't clank a nice piece of wood against a belt-buckle.

A very handy tool to have, for ~$20 or so is the Beall spindle tap (well, you don't have to buy it from Beall...). You can then use to turn your own tooling adapter. Be careful with speeds etc. and use proper protective gear.

Here are some other alternatives: If your spindle thread is 1x8, find a 1x8 nut and make an adapter. Use protective gear.

Use your chuck, homemade large block jaws to hold the morse taper holder. (klugey, but should work--be sure to cut the correct taper on the block jaws to hold the taper). Use protective gear.

I believe the back side of the MT of the Beall MT adapter is threaded with 1/4-20. Get a long piece of threaded rod and make a drawbar to pull the MT into the spindle.

Find a friend with a machine shop, and trade pizzas (or bowls, or pizza peels, you get the idea) for a threaded spindle adapter for the buffs.

 

[john lucas]

Yes light pressure and very little compound. I also find the 8" extension to be extremely stable. Early on I applied a lot of pressure and never noticed a problem with the extension. 6" would also be fine but on my hand mirrors it would be a little short. I often run into problems keeping then handle from hitting the headstock as I rotate the piece.

 

[odie]

Yes light pressure and very little compound. I also find the 8" extension to be extremely stable. Early on I applied a lot of pressure and never noticed a problem with the extension. 6" would also be fine but on my hand mirrors it would be a little short. I often run into problems keeping then handle from hitting the headstock as I rotate the piece.

Hiya John......Yes, I can see how the mirror handles could be problematic with a shorter extension. You could even go longer if you started stacking the extensions.

My comment about stability will come into play at some point depending on how hard one pushes, and the length of the extension. Now, this is unrealistic, but if an extension were ten feet long, I don't thing there would be any disagreement that stability would be an issue. If that can be established, then the only question would be at what length stability would actually be an issue. Depending on pressure, motor, motor mount, and a variety of other things that could effect the issue......the maximum usable length could be a variable, and not the same for any one person.

But.......I acknowledge that theory and actual real world results may differ here.......

Good day to you.......ko

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

The terms (names for parts) in Beall's catalog have the items assembling thusly:

• Buffing Mandrel
• 1/2" - 5/8" adapter (which Gerald may be calling "the Beal extension")
• then either the Bowl Buff of choice, or the Buffing Mandrel Extension (of which Odie spoke, 6-3/4" long), and then the buff

The Adapter is held onto the MT Buffing Mandrel with 2 set screws. If you want to mount to a motor shaft, there's a sleeve to reduce the size if the original is too big.

I appreciate their videos, which I did not know about until mentioned in this thread. What would be more immediately helpful would be quick-look diagrams that show the different parts, with their names and order of attachment. All of this seems very simple once it's understood, but "Greek to me" when I've never seen a buffing set-up. I'm now the proud owner of two parts that I really won't need. Such is life.

PS: Correct me if I'm wrong

Jamie I went to the shop and made you a picture. The sleeve is inside the mounted Aluminum shaft and can be used on a mandrel or threaded shaft. The 2 set screws make the attachment. Buffs screw (mounted on buff) into the end of the shaft (no tools required ,just grab and spin) . The extension shown on the buffer threads into recess in the end of the shaft. I set buffer onto a box with space inside for the 8' buffs.

 

[DUANE POLING]

I purchased 3 of the round bowl buffs along with the adaptor. I use it on an old drill press that was no longer accurate for drilling and I get good buffing results. The buffs screw on and off and I cut off a bolt that I chucked in the drill press for mounting. I also changed the drill press belts to gain the highest speed. Not as fast as a bench or lathe buff but very sufficient.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Jamie I went to the shop and made you a picture. The sleeve is inside the mounted Aluminum shaft and can be used on a mandrel or threaded shaft. The 2 set screws make the attachment. Buffs screw (mounted on buff) into the end of the shaft (no tools required ,just grab and spin) . The extension shown on the buffer threads into recess in the end of the shaft. I set buffer onto a box with space inside for the 8' buffs.

View attachment 9378

Thanks, Gerald, appreciate the picture! Where did you get your buffer? Sometime down the road, I'd like to have a separate machine for this operation.

 

[Jamie Straw]

I purchased 3 of the round bowl buffs along with the adaptor. I use it on an old drill press that was no longer accurate for drilling and I get good buffing results. The buffs screw on and off and I cut off a bolt that I chucked in the drill press for mounting. I also changed the drill press belts to gain the highest speed. Not as fast as a bench or lathe buff but very sufficient.

Thanks, Duane, good to know that works.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Thanks, Gerald, appreciate the picture! Where did you get your buffer? Sometime down the road, I'd like to have a separate machine for this operation.

It is a Harbor Freight. The motor will only start if I spin it now. I think it was about $40 couple years ago. It does stall easily. I would suggest IF you expect to buff each piece get a different brand, or make your own. If you want a very good one look at Caswell Plating . They have several brands including Baldor.
Making your own with arbor and free motor ( from A/C fan) is the cheapest long range answer.

 

[Jamie Straw]

It is a Harbor Freight. The motor will only start if I spin it now. I think it was about $40 couple years ago. It does stall easily. I would suggest IF you expect to buff each piece get a different brand, or make your own. If you want a very good one look at Caswell Plating . They have several brands including Baldor.
Making your own with arbor and free motor ( from A/C fan) is the cheapest long range answer.

No Harbor Freight for me, thanks. I found this one <click> from Eastwood the other night and bookmarked it. Seems like it might be OK. I'll check out Caswell, thanks.

 

[Douglas Ladendorf]

Eastwood is a decent company. They used to sell house-branded Baldors, but that's not a Baldor.

This would be Caswell's equivalent. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffi...hp-buffing-machine-1100-rpm-machine-only.html

A package with buffs and compound may be the best deal.

Here is some reading for you: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf

Doug

 

[Jamie Straw]

Eastwood is a decent company. They used to sell house-branded Baldors, but that's not a Baldor.

This would be Caswell's equivalent. http://www.caswellplating.com/buffi...hp-buffing-machine-1100-rpm-machine-only.html

A package with buffs and compound may be the best deal.

Here is some reading for you: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/images/Buffbook.pdf

Doug

Hey, Doug, thanks! I've bookmarked the 3/4HP machine. The explanations and diagrams about "Cut and Polish Motions" from the second link was very interesting!

 

[Jamie Straw]

An update........

I made a drawbar for the Beall mandrel (that supports the bowl buffs). Without the drawbar, the mandrel doesn't seat completely, but with it? it worked great, and when I took the mandrel out, there were no marks on it.