Storing wood

[chrisdaniels]

There are a few options out there for storing wood once it's either rough turned or turned green to final thickness then dried for final finishing.

1) Paper bags full of shavings sealed up- I know people use this for both rough turned and final turned pieces to finish drying. I've tried this and not had an issue except where to store all the bags!

2) wrap the rims in plastic and set them to dry once i'm done roughing them out or turning thin from green- I have started doing this for the last few weeks and most of the pieces that I have done-around a dozen or so have all molded so am I doing something wrong? Maple, cherry, yellow birch and oak have all molded within a day or two of wrapping them so I don't think this method will work for me.

3) coating them in anchorseal or PVA glue- seemingly the most expensive method, I haven't tried this but it doesn't make economical sense to me. Is this mainly for the professionals who don't worry about the cost of materials?

I live in upper michigan. winter runs 7-8 months, gets down to -20 degrees and humidity sits around 50% in my shop and outside. I have a room upstairs in my house with shelves that I can store a lot of stuff in but is it a good idea to bring all those bags or molded bowls inside the house? it is obviously a more stable environment but very different than what my shop is.

Most of my wood is stored in the entrance to the basement. once you open the door there's a large landing where most of my wood is stored then down the stairs is a Basement. Is this a decent enough area to store my rough turned stuff?

Thanks for your advice or info!
Chris

 

[odie]

3) coating them in anchorseal or PVA glue- seemingly the most expensive method, I haven't tried this but it doesn't make economical sense to me. Is this mainly for the professionals who don't worry about the cost of materials?
Chris

Chris.....I'd have a hard time giving advice about the best way to store wood in your shop and location......but, I do have a comment about your third possibility. I've been using the CSUSA wax emulsion, which is similar to the anchorseal product.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/45/4032/Artisan-Woodsealer?term=green wood sealer

I find it to be very inexpensive to use. I normally have about 50 roughed bowls in the seasoning process at any given time. About five of those are stabilized, and ready for turning each month, and about five are roughed out and added to the group. The roughed bowls are completely sealed inside and out, and a gallon of this emulsion lasts me a couple years.

There is very little waste, and brushes don't need to be washed. All I do with brushes, is to squeeze the excess out, and store in a plastic container. The next time I use the brush, all that's necessary, is to work the bristles with my hand, and the brush is ready for use again.

While being stored, the sealed roughed bowls are stacked on stickers, allowing as much exposed surface as possible while in the seasoning process. They are weighed monthly, and when the weight is consistent over a 3 or 4 month period, I consider the bowl ready for turning.

ko

 

[Richard Coers]

Advice will change with species. Big rough outs in cherry require different handling than ash. Some species in smaller sizes will need no treatment. Some species like catalpa or mesquite need no treatment, no matter the size. Red oak dries easier than white oak, etc.............So many variables, there are no general rules for all wood storage. Wet maple stored in chips and a bag will likely mold and discolor. I have used chips for some species, but for only a couple of days. Anything wrapped with plastic will mold, you need a little air exchange. But even that changes with the season. Bringing wet wood rough-outs into a house in Michigan when it's -20 outside is asking for cracking blanks. Especially if you have a wood stove in the house! You will get away with it after a few weeks of drying in cooler temps.

 

[chrisdaniels]

odie- wouldnt it just be easier to use a moisture meter or does the sealant get in the way of the reading?

richard what would you recommend?

 

[Dean Center]

As with everything in woodturning, there are many ways to dry blanks. Personally, I suspect that the local climate plays a big role in what ends up working for a particular turner, and that includes the location of storage (inside/outside/basement, heated/unheated, etc.). Surrounded by Lake Superior and 300 inches of snow, I would have thought you'd have high humidity, but you've discovered it's middlin' at 50%.

The bottom line is that you are already taking the woods that will be available to you, trying different methods and discovering what works and what doesn't. You're well on your way to finding the right method for you and your circumstance. Forum members will now give you 6-10 additional, successful methods to try.

 

[odie]

odie- wouldnt it just be easier to use a moisture meter or does the sealant get in the way of the reading?

richard what would you recommend?

Chris...... I do use a moisture meter initially. It gives me a general idea of what the drying process will entail. For me, the meter reading does provide some information that is helpful, but it's my belief that weights are the more accurate indicator of when stabilization occurs. Of course, those who do wish to use the moisture meter in lieu of weights, are also finding it a valid method of determining stabilization.

I usually don't use the moisture meter after the roughed bowl is sealed, but don't think the sealant has much effect on the readings. The wax emulsion is liquid when applied, but dries to a semi-hard coating in a very short time. I suppose if someone wanted to know if the wax coating did influence a moisture reading, a simple experiment could be done on a single piece of wood that had both a coated surface, and a bare surface.....

ko

 

[chrisdaniels]

odie what's the difference in anchorseal and the stuff you use?

 

[Bill Boehme]

odie what's the difference in anchorseal and the stuff you use?

Anchorseal and the stuff available at Craft Supplies, Woodcraft, and Rockler are all exactly the same thing ... Anchorseal that has been repackaged.

I agree with Odie about weighing. It is the best way to tell when wood is dry. Moisture meters were designed for checking stickered lumber because it is impractical to weigh stacked lumber. The shortcoming of moisture meters is that they only give you an indication of dryness near the surface. If you are drying a bowl and you check the moisture on the end grain it will be lower than the moisture content where there is side grain. In reality you do not need to know the moisture content ... what you really want answered is the question, "is this roughed out turning dry"? Weighing the piece will give you a very clear answer. Here is an exaample of what I got by tracking the weight of a large roughed out elm bowl.



During the initial phase of dry which is typically about a month or two the rapid loss in weight is the loss of free water ... the water in cell cavities. The loss of bound water ... the water in the cell walls takes much longer. In this bowl blank, the weight loss drops to just a couple grams per day by the 140th day. For a rough turning that weighs 2300 grams, it is for all intents and purposes dry. After plotting data for several species for a couple years, I usually don't bother weighing them because I know from experience when something is dry enough to finish. Also, I have a bit of a backlog so that things are well past being dry by the time that I get around to finishing them.

Even dry wood will frequently move. It's because the wood has internal stresses and when wood is removed, it throws those stresses out of equilibrium. The wood will move enough to balance out internal stresses.

 

[chrisdaniels]

bill that is an outstanding explanation and your data record keeping is great! thank you for showing me that. I have only been doing this about a year so I am nowhere near that knowledgeable. I only have about 2 months of bowls drying right now but i'm like a little kid when I get done roughing a bowl, I want to finish it right now and hate waiting!!! i'm going tomorrow to cut up and haul as much of a 4' diameter willow tree for blanks, willow looks very similar to box elder, I have done a few bowls from here that have great colors, bright pinks and reds. I suppose I should order some more anchorseal though. and take out a couple more notebooks. one question though. once I coat a blank in anchorseal, since it's coated is there any reason not to store it in the basement? Lots of room down there but it is kind of musty and smelly so I don't reckon that's good if I want to make bowls to actually eat out of.

 

[odie]

View attachment 9568

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Great post, Bill.....!

If you had gone more than 150 days on this test, at some point the readings would represent a horizontal line. That is the point where stabilization has occurred. You were close to it, in your graph, but I suspect the line may have gone lower on the scale. When stabilization occurs, I find the monthly weights will vary a slight amount.....go up and down about 5 grams, or so....but, stabilized in weight overall. This is dependent on seasonal changes and varying local weather/humidity.

I find that, although most will not, some roughed bowls will go over a year before stabilization, and it all depends on the species, initial moisture content.....and, of course, MY location/weather/season.



ko

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Methinks you two have too much time on your hands. To me the weights I get within 2 months will slow to about 2 Gm per day and then as Odie said start to go up and down if you wait that long you have reached MEQ. However I do not believe you need to wait for MEQ , just get to the point of very little change then return and finish . Although it may be that I get that stabilization because I do not get to that much wood that is very green as in cut in the last 2 weeks.

 

[Jamie Straw]

Hijacking the thread for a moment to show off these boards -- they're from Coyote Wood Shop here on the island. I stopped by to see if they had any small cut-offs I might like (of which I got several, all in the 8%-10% range, wow). The maple flitch pictured below is the most amazing thing I've seen -- totally figured, and at least 15' long, couple feet wide or more. Walnut wasn't bad either. OK, back to the topic.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

Excellent discussion. Thanks! I have much less experience, but I'll add my two cents.

I agree that the species really determines how you dry. It's worth experimenting a little to see what you can and can't get away with, then take a bit more conservative approach. As an example, Sitka Mountain Ash (which isn't an ash at all) dries exceptionally well. You can go from green to dry in a matter of weeks. I don't even bother with boxes, let alone paper bags or anchorseal. Other than right at the heart, I have yet to crack a bowl, even in my woodstove-heated home where average wood MC is about 3% in Winter. Yeah, I know that's crazy low.

The second variable is where you live and your shop conditions. I often dry bowls for a few weeks outside under cover, because I live in a temperate rainforest that often hovers just above freezing for months.

A third variable is the tree. Densely figured grain loves to crack, presumably because water moves slower through it. Tension wood, compression wood, knots, suckers, crotches...all need slower drying. Perfect stuff for Anchorseal.

On Anchorseal: I rarely use it, because most of the woods I turn doesn't need it. I have a designated drying shed (outbuilding) with a dehumidifier and woodstove. I usually keep it pretty dry and below 50°F. In my experience, bowls love drying in cooler temps. Rough bowls start on the floor in a corner where it's coolest. When the outside of the bowl is dry enough that I'm not concerned about molding, I put them in big cardboard moving boxes and check periodically. When they're reasonably dry, I move the bowls to metal racks if I'm in any sort of hurry and leave for weeks to months, depending on the species.

Drying rough bowls is a dance. It's a fine opportunity to learn more of each wood's characteristics, which just makes us better woodworkers all around.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Methinks you two have too much time on your hands. To me the weights I get within 2 months will slow to about 2 Gm per day and then as Odie said start to go up and down if you wait that long you have reached MEQ. However I do not believe you need to wait for MEQ , just get to the point of very little change then return and finish . Although it may be that I get that stabilization because I do not get to that much wood that is very green as in cut in the last 2 weeks.

It sounds like your wood is half way close to being dry, but I agree with your point that you don't need to wait until the wood is completely dry. There could be some warping if you finish turning too soon.

 

[Bob Strand]

patience

Hi,
I'm like Chris in that I have a tough time waiting 6 months for a rough-out to dry. Due to that I take my chances with the microwave. Moderate success.

Bob

 

[Jamie Straw]

Hi,
I'm like Chris in that I have a tough time waiting 6 months for a rough-out to dry. Due to that I take my chances with the microwave. Moderate success.

Bob

Bob, I've just started working with a new mentor who uses a pressure cooker -- am going to see what the procedure is on Monday. Have you tried that? Sounds pretty close to instant gratification, without the overheating risk of the microwave.

 

[chrisdaniels]

Pressurizing moist wood then releasing the pressure so the compressed fibers then expand back sounds like too fast of movement to control cracking. I of course am very far from an expert though so I could be talking out of my seat cushion!

 

[odie]

Bob, I've just started working with a new mentor who uses a pressure cooker -- am going to see what the procedure is on Monday. Have you tried that? Sounds pretty close to instant gratification, without the overheating risk of the microwave.

Pressurizing moist wood then releasing the pressure so the compressed fibers then expand back sounds like too fast of movement to control cracking. I of course am very far from an expert though so I could be talking out of my seat cushion!

I'm interested to hear back from Jamie, once she has some practical experience with this pressure cooker method......

One thing about it.....retarding moisture release, and giving it plenty of time to reach stabilization with a more natural exposure to the ambient climate, works with the best success rate that I'm aware of.....without all the excessive cracking and warping associated with doing the same over an abbreviated time span. There may be some amount of success rate with all these creative tactics, but the question of percentage rates will come into play......right? The (one and only?) reason why so many turners experiment with all sorts of alternative methods of quickly removing moisture from wood, or roughed bowls, while hoping to do it with an acceptable rate of success......is the attempt to reduce the time element involved. Hopefully, some experimental method will eventually prove out to be economical, effective, and not too much time and effort involved in achieving the target goals.....

It sounds like your wood is half way close to being dry, but I agree with your point that you don't need to wait until the wood is completely dry. There could be some warping if you finish turning too soon.

Even with completely stabilized roughed bowls, sometimes warping takes place during finish turning, anyway......however, warping happens less in frequency, and degree, when it's completely stabilized. Warping happens more frequently, and degree, with wood that isn't fully stabilized.....even if it's close to being stabilized. There are other things, such as species, density, grain and other individual features of a particular piece of wood......and, of course, how thin the wall thickness is intended to be. All of these things influence the warp factor.

There are other things that need to be considered, as well. As stated, thin walls, and incomplete stabilization, will increase the probability of warping, and any warping at all will effect the aesthetic quality of intersecting planes, and detail grooves. As close as possible to geometric perfection.....or the complete lack of warping, along with the absolute minimal of sanding, are among those things that will lead to the best success in aesthetic eye appeal.

Because of these things, it's my opinion that complete stabilization of moisture content presents the best pre-condition, leading to the best success rate in final finish turning. At this time, the only way to do it, is to slow down the rate of moisture release and let time do the rest......but, I'm hoping some method, such as Jamie's pressure cooker may someday prove to be a better method, with equal, or better success rate.

ko

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

All this talk about drying the bowl brings up a question. If the bowl is not completely dry (lets say it about 75% of the way to EMC) and finish is added what effect does that have on the longevity of the finish (based on type of finish water base, oil, film finish)?

 

[odie]

All this talk about drying the bowl brings up a question. If the bowl is not completely dry (lets say it about 75% of the way to EMC) and finish is added what effect does that have on the longevity of the finish (based on type of finish water base, oil, film finish)?

Interesting question, Gerald......and, I can only offer my guesswork.

Even KD (Kiln Dried) wood has a MC of about 6-12%, so I assume you mean "stabilized, or EMC" instead of "completely dry".

If the finish is applied, I'll also assume the final turning has been done, and the bowl is completed.

If the bowl has a moisture content higher than the climate it resides in, then some release of moisture is going to happen.....that is, if the finish doesn't seal the wood and prevent that from happening.

If there is moisture release, then I'm going to assume some amount of warping is in the cards, given that other factors, such as wall thickness, species, grain patterning, etc., doesn't get involved with that equation.

I don't know what would happen if bound water that would have otherwise been released, is kept from eliminating. Will that moisture move within the bowl, or stay where it is?

Bottom line: Your guess is as good as mine!

ko

 

[Bill Boehme]

What Odie says ... the finish doesn't seal the wood. Since the local season conditions are always changing, it means that wood is never exactly in sync with the weather. The moisture in the wood is always above or below EMC so the wood is always absorbing or releasing moisture. The finish just slows down that process. Sometimes the wood can experience a large change if you sell a piece to somebody who lives where the climate is very different from your local climate.

 

[Gretch Flo]

All this talk about drying the bowl brings up a question. If the bowl is not completely dry (lets say it about 75% of the way to EMC) and finish is added what effect does that have on the longevity of the finish (based on type of finish water base, oil, film finish)?

''

I asked this ? several years ago on this forum, "what happens if you apply finish to somewhat wet wood" and one reply I got (Barbara Dill???) was the finish will look "muddy". I have not done an "experiment" tho. Gretch

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Interesting question, Gerald......and, I can only offer my guesswork.

Even KD (Kiln Dried) wood has a MC of about 6-12%, so I assume you mean "stabilized, or EMC" instead of "completely dry".

If the finish is applied, I'll also assume the final turning has been done, and the bowl is completed.

If the bowl has a moisture content higher than the climate it resides in, then some release of moisture is going to happen.....that is, if the finish doesn't seal the wood and prevent that from happening.

If there is moisture release, then I'm going to assume some amount of warping is in the cards, given that other factors, such as wall thickness, species, grain patterning, etc., doesn't get involved with that equation.

I don't know what would happen if bound water that would have otherwise been released, is kept from eliminating. Will that moisture move within the bowl, or stay where it is?

Bottom line: Your guess is as good as mine!

ko

Odie I know the answer about what happens to water still in the wood when finished. The transpiration of that water is slowed by the finish, but there is NO finish which will stop moisture from going either in or out of the wood so eventually the bowl will dry. Now I wonder what happens to the finish itself.

 

[robo hippy]

With the pressure cooker, water boils at a lesser temperature, so I would guess less energy is used, but don't know of any king sized ones to put many bowls in rather than one or two. The one I would be more interested in would be a vacuum kiln. I have gotten some lumber from them, and it works like air dried lumber rather than 'kill dried' lumber. I have never been one to put effort into faster drying because it takes more time that could be used turning more bowls, sanding, or heaven forbid cleaning up the shop....

Drying wood is an art, not a science because every piece is different.

robo hippy

 

[Bill Boehme]

Odie I know the answer about what happens to water still in the wood when finished. The transpiration of that water is slowed by the finish, but there is NO finish which will stop moisture from going either in or out of the wood so eventually the bowl will dry. Now I wonder what happens to the finish itself.

I don't see any point in creating a situation where I would need to find out the answer.

 

[odie]

Odie I know the answer about what happens to water still in the wood when finished. The transpiration of that water is slowed by the finish, but there is NO finish which will stop moisture from going either in or out of the wood so eventually the bowl will dry. Now I wonder what happens to the finish itself.

Well, I'm not surprised at all. It's been such a long time ago, if ever, that I attempted to finish turn and apply the finish coat to a roughed bowl that hasn't fully stabilized yet.....so I just don't know the answer!

I usually season roughed bowls to the point where they have stable weights for 3-4 months before I call it good. Even then, I seldom finish turn them right away.....so the process continues, even though I'm no longer weighing them monthly. Heck, I've got roughed bowls in storage that were seasoned ten years ago.....and, are still waiting on me to do something with them!

ko

 

[odie]

Drying wood is an art, not a science because every piece is different.

robo hippy

Howdy Robo.......

Now, THAT......is a statement that can be applied to just about every aspect of woodturning! It's sooooo true that just about every piece of wood is different......or, an "individual". If the turner doesn't learn to "see", interpret the input.....and then adapt and adjust, it's going to be a long and frustrating voyage! It's no wonder so many high spirited new turners eventually give up and quit! This is before they ever even reach first base......and, they have no idea about what it takes to find second and third bases......let alone, home plate! IMHO, most of them learn to get by with sanding their way to success......when there are so many things to discover in how to eliminate the need for excessive sanding......let alone how that will open up undiscovered country. Many, instead, pursue embellishment......which has come into it's own in recent times, I'll grant that......but, the act of precision turning is left to those who close the doors behind them......not that it's what they intend to do, but it's because so many are incapable of seeing the door, until that time they open it, and pass through that threshold!

ko

 

[chrisdaniels]

when you're doing a vase starting with green wood do you finish turn and let it dry then sand or finish turn, sand wet and let dry and finish?
OR
rough turn the shape, hollow out the inside but leave it a little thicker than normal and let it dry then finish turn once it's dry?

 

[odie]

when you're doing a vase starting with green wood do you finish turn and let it dry then sand or finish turn, sand wet and let dry and finish?
OR
rough turn the shape, hollow out the inside but leave it a little thicker than normal and let it dry then finish turn once it's dry?

Chris, I don't know if you were asking me this question, but I'm not really the right person to answer your question. I'm not into doing vases, as I am pretty much a "tunnel vision" turner who specializes in bowls. Somebody else will come along, who does this type of turning........

(However, if I were to do a vase, I'd do it much the same as I would do a bowl. Rough to general shape. Completely anchorseal if above 14% MC. Either way, weigh monthly until stabilized MC. Finish turn. Sand. Apply finish. Buff and wax.......done.)

ko

 

[Tom Albrecht]

Chris.....I'd have a hard time giving advice about the best way to store wood in your shop and location......but, I do have a comment about your third possibility. I've been using the CSUSA wax emulsion, which is similar to the anchorseal product.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/45/4032/Artisan-Woodsealer?term=green wood sealer
ko

It is not just similar to the anchorseal product, it is the anchorseal product packaged for Craft Supplies, and always has been.

 

[hockenbery]

when you're doing a vase starting with green wood do you finish turn and let it dry then sand or finish turn, sand wet and let dry and finish? OR rough turn the shape, hollow out the inside but leave it a little thicker than normal and let it dry then finish turn once it's dry?

An open vase with a stem, I established the rim turning just a little of the outside rim. Then I turn the inside of the rim establishing the wall thickness and hollow. I sand the inside with abranet to 220.
Then turn the outside the stem and the base. If it is light colored wood I point an LED light inside and use the color for a thickness gauge.
A bright yellow is good, white is a two piece vessel.wet wood passes light well.
Let dry for a day or two. The sand the whole vessel to 320.

If it is a hollow form shaped vase I turn the outside, hollow, turn off the bottom let dry and sand the outside off the lathe.
I don't sand the inside of hollow forms.

Al

 

[Jamie Straw]

Pressurizing moist wood then releasing the pressure so the compressed fibers then expand back sounds like too fast of movement to control cracking. I of course am very far from an expert though so I could be talking out of my seat cushion!

All I know is he's been doing this for eons. I left two green apple bowls with him this week, and will get them back at Wednesday's meeting. As he describes his routine for bowls, he turns them, pressure cooks (time varies), removes from water, and completes and finishes as soon as they're cool enough to handle. I suspect that on a cellular level it's more complex than just compression and expansion. I'll try it out a few times before investing in the cooker. If I get one, want it to be at least 21 quarts.

 

[chrisdaniels]

holy wow that's a big cooker! this weekend I scored big time! got about 250 bowls worth of black ash, white ash, maple and red oak For FREE! i'm not talking about little pieces, all over 12" wide!!! then I got a 300lb maple burl given to me! I feel like I hit the lottery, offered to pay and was refused everytime. THEN I got a call from the land trust and was told I can have a couple of 2' wide hard maple trees down at the park! it's not even my birthday!!! I do have to figure out where to put it all lol I live in a small place in town. I'm supposed to build a woodshed but it's been really really wet around here since the snow started melting so i'll have to wait for it to dry up a bit.

I have access to a professional sized kiln to dry whatever I want, should I take my roughed out bowls and stick them in there or would it be better to just slowly let them dry coated in anchorseal?

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I have access to a professional sized kiln to dry whatever I want, should I take my roughed out bowls and stick them in there or would it be better to just slowly let them dry coated in anchorseal?

Are you talking about a lumber drying kiln or one made specifically for woodturning use? For most purposes, drying the wood in a lumber kiln is not what you want to do. If you have turned the green wood to rough form for whatever you are making (bowls, platters, spindles, etc.) then the easiest thing to do is to let it slowly dry ... and the slower, the better. That is why I like to use Anchorseal. In some places where the humidity is very high some woodturners have made kilns that dry the wood slow enough that it won't crack or warp too badly. If you have sawn the wood into round or square blanks, my opinion is that it is best to coat it with Anchorseal until you get around to rough turning it. Getting around to it while the wood is still green makes rough turning easier. In some situations like using the wood for making boxes, spindles, and baseball bats) using a lumber drying kiln would speed up your wait time, but first saw the wood into reasonable size blanks. Never try to dry whole log sections in a kiln. The wood is just too thick and it will most likely split. The red oak might not live up to your expectations because it just loves to split even under the best of circumstances. For all of the wood, if you decide to leave it in half logs then, as a minimum, remove the pith, coat with Anchorseal, and keep it out of the weather.

 

[chrisdaniels]

ohh I didn't know that there were different types of kilns, that's what I get for not doing my research. it's a lumber kiln.

 

[odie]

Forgive me if I'm not remembering this correctly......but, I think it was Kelly Dunn who is using an old refrigerator with lights bulbs to dry his bowl blanks and other roughed turnings. I think he was drilling holes to see that there is air circulation. He's in Hawaii, so that plays a part in this.

Now, I've never done this, but I think drying roughed bowls in this modified refrigerator ought to work pretty well in just about any climate, and it seems like the air circulation plays an important role in it.......

ko

 

[chrisdaniels]

i've seen a lot of youtube turners do that as well. they usually drill 2 holes in the bottom of the sides opposite each other. some of them put a fan aimed out one of the holes to help vent the moist air. they use a 90 watt bulb and run a drain line out the bottom. I'd be interested to see how well it works and how much time it cuts as well. I don't have the room to do it here, my "shop" is less than a hundred square feet so yea!!! but until the wife is done with college we are staying put so I make due I may have to go do some more research on this fridge kiln and see if it's worth investigating. thanks KO

Chris

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

pressure cooker details

Hi Jamie,

I'd be interested to hear more about the pressure cooker. Please keep us post. I'm wondering much pressure, and for how long to be effective.

I might be inclined to try with one of our pressure canners on some difficult grain that normally takes a year or more to dry.

Thanks,
Zach

 

[Jamie Straw]

Hi Jamie,

I'd be interested to hear more about the pressure cooker. Please keep us post. I'm wondering much pressure, and for how long to be effective.

I might be inclined to try with one of our pressure canners on some difficult grain that normally takes a year or more to dry.

Thanks,
Zach

Zach, I'll get some details for you as best I can. Don't be afraid to experiment if you have some disposable wood. If I had a pressure cooker, I'd be playing around with it for sure, but any money I spend on one right now delays the (hopefully) upcoming CBN wheel. Decision, decisions. Try a 10"D bowl, cook it for 30 minutes perhaps? Just see what happens. I'll try to get more info Wednesday night if he's at the meeting.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

Thanks, Jamie. I'll give it a go shortly. I might try something with porous grain that dries easily and then another that I know would take forever to dry properly.

I'm thinking a pressure canner could go on your kitchen budget, and would in no way count toward your turning budget.

We might just have to start a new thread. Do you think I could can some smoked salmon at the same time?

Zach