this is getting a litte too exciting and a Talon chuck question

Discussion in 'Newbie' started by hu lowery, Apr 10, 2013.

  1. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    I have been trying to turn some four or five year old cedar. It doesn't appear rotten but is very light. It also has cracks in it despite drying indoors, I suspect my real issue.

    Just learning woodturning, I have my occasional catch and oops. A smallish piece broke a bit over a two inch tenon off and went across the way for no particularly good reason. Today I was turning a fairly large bowl, 10-12 inches, and had shaped the bottom, the tenon, and had hollowed as much as I could squeeze in to get out between the headstock and bowl rim. I cut a tenon just under the size I could hold with the #2 jaws on the Talon, maybe three and a quarter? I also turned a nearly full depth tenon, about seven-sixteenths. Definitely not bottomed out.

    My wood developed a wobble and I checked everything several times, couldn't find anything wrong and the piece seemed solidly attached to the spindle head. While taking a very light cut, just taking earlier turning marks off shaving hairs off of the piece, it broke loose and headed east. Didn't make it to the back fence but it made a run at it! Two to three pound chunk of wood, it could have left a mark. Did leave a tiny mark on my arm as the natural edge went by but no lasting damage.

    My thoughts are this cedar is just too dangerous to turn except maybe in some much smaller pieces with great care. might be lidded box material or something.

    Even prior to this I have noticed there is a good bit of play in my jaws on the Tenon chuck, I verified the secondary jaws were tightly attached to the base jaws, the play is in the chuck. I assume this is deliberate to deal with the dust and the jaw angles are designed to align properly after the slack is taken up. Can anyone confirm there is noticeable play in the chuck jaws normally? I'm used to metal lathe chucks so this beast is a new thing to me.

    Getting better all the time, I may produce a piece before snow flies!

    Hu
     
  2. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    Cedar is not a very strong wood an splits easily.
    Not a Good wood for beginners and it will not survive a catch.
    On the plus side it is light and may cause you less serous injury than a heavy oak.

    The fact that you had a wobble told you something was wrong!
    Not finding out what was wrong did not make it go away.
    Perhaps the tenon was walking out of the chuck or the tenon was cracked.
    Continuing with an unknown wobble is bad luck.

    I suspect the problem is a combination of the wood which is already cracked and getting catches.

    What tools are you using?

    My suggestion would be to use faceplates and #12 sheet metal screw that go a full 1 1/2 inches into the wood
    A chuck won't hold a bowl if you get catches. Turn 3 bowls on faceplate in a row with no catches then go back to the chuck.

    If you are using the # 2 jaws you will get a better hold on a tenon that is 2" or maybe 2 1/4
    A three inch tenon in number 2 jaws won't hold too well
    Also you should make a flat for the tops of the jaws to rest on. Without the flat, the tenon will walk out of the chuck.

    Foremost, take a class, get some mentoring, or at least watch a bowl demonstration.
    Once you master the basic techniques turning is much more rewarding.

    Experience may be the best teacher but the exams are hell!


    Good luck

    al
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013
  3. Ian Thorn

    Ian Thorn

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    Please take notice of what AL has said plus use safty gear face shield and dust join a club and you will get lots of help and meet some great people have fun but stay safe

    Cheers Ian
     
  4. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    Al and Ian have said it all.

    Cedar definitely is a splinter prone wood. Since you are having catches, it is time to back up and work on some basics. It is obvious that something is not being done correctly. Working on basics is not as much fun as bowl turning, but how much fun is launching bowls into suborbital trajectories? Well maybe only you and the person who does your laundry know exactly how exciting it is. There is plenty good reason to get excited -- you can seriously injure yourself or end your life.

    When you are turning, what is your main concentration focused on?

    • escape route to the nearest exit
    • loss of feeling in your hands due to white knuckles
    • wondering about relationship between woodturning and PTSD
    • can't remember
    • lost in simultaneously concentrating on the mechanics of holding the gouge, body movement, holding the right end of the tool, body position, etc.
    • knowing where the cutting edge is with respect to the wood and using your eyes to follow the development of the bowl curvature.
     
  5. MichaelMouse

    MichaelMouse

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    Assume from your location that you're turning local aromatic "cedar" (Juniperus virginiana), the red stuff with the white sapwood? http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/softwoods/aromatic-red-cedar/ Since nobody else asked before opining, I will. Sort of special stuff extremely prone to honeycombing when drying, providing a hidden place to catch a tool being "ridden", and with a sort of ribbed trunk that puts white stripes where we normally would have heartwood, also an unanticipated point of weakness. Western red, eastern white are more uniform, and though soft, succumb to a properly presented edge no worse than any other softwood. other kinds out there as well, none of which are actually cedar. Only other I can think of which might grow locally would be Spanish cedar, which is really light and smells like humidors!

    Talon #2 shows either ribbed or smooth, which want different treatment to some degree. Both need a shoulder to ride on, and neither want to be tightened to crush the fairly weak heartwood or weak softwood. Smooth want snug only, ribbed 1/4 turn past snug. The dovetail on the smooth will draw to shoulder, the ribs won't, so you'll want to press as you tighten to get the best seating. Then, if I might be so bold, I suggest you leave a pillar in the center to maintain clamping pressure and a hold that will help keep things from cracking at the base of the tenon if you slip up with the gouge. Use it until you're as hollow as you want to be, then part and snap. Other thing you might want to consider is reinforcing the tenon by running in some thin CA on its endgrain. Put it on to refusal, allow to cure, then remove the very surface to take out irregularities before chucking up.
     
  6. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    WOW, a bunch of good information!

    I am going to respond to all in order: It will be a long post but probably better than four different replies! My answers will be inserted in blue.

    Al first:

    Cedar is not a very strong wood an splits easily.
    a Good wood for beginners and it will not survive a catch.
    On the plus side it is light and may cause you less serous injury than a heavy oak.


    MichaelMouse's educated guess concerning the wood down below is spot on, an unusually bad choice for a beginner!

    The fact that you had a wobble told you something was wrong!

    I fully agree. I realized that was a stupid mistake before the wood stopped rolling!

    Not finding out what was wrong did not make it go away.
    Perhaps the tenon was walking out of the chuck or the tenon was cracked.
    Continuing with an unknown wobble is bad luck.

    I suspect the problem is a combination of the wood which is already cracked and getting catches.

    Yes and yes, can add improper chucking, too much force, assuming the info Mike gives below is correct. A local mentor or instruction would have prevented overtightening the chuck.

    What tools are you using?

    Bear with me while I explain a little. Hurricane Isaac took the home I lived in, one of my shops, and caused everything salvageable to be crammed almost ceiling to floor in a 12x20 storage bay. Household stuff got mixed in and piled in front of shop stuff. I had just bought half of a woodworking home shop including three or four sets of lathe chisels, a carbide rouging tool, and bowl gouges. Somehow all of this has disappeared hopefully to be found later although I have dug mightily searching. Seems silly to buy skews and such I already have and the expenses after the storm have left me unable to anyway. My total tools will explain a bit of my grief. They consist of a very low quality parting tool, all I found of the stuff I owned, it came with something else and was in a junk box. A Crown 5/8" diameter, half inch callout, bowl gouge, still square cut.(I wanted smaller, bought what was in stock.) A Henry Taylor ST 2000 tool with the three tips. Loaned to me brand new from a friend, another bigger tool than needed but very hard to look a gift horse in the mouth. Wish I knew why these were taken off the market. My final tool is a 1/2" by 36" rod, probably drill rod, that I use a 4.5 inch side grinder to shape the end as needed at the moment. Sharpening equipment is three little tiny diamond hones used by hand. My tooling might be slightly lacking at the moment but is what I have. I do carefully maintain the angles sharpening so they are still close to original but the hollow grinds are gone where there was one.

    My suggestion would be to use faceplates and #12 sheet metal screw that go a full 1 1/2 inches into the wood
    A chuck won't hold a bowl if you get catches. Turn 3 bowls on faceplate in a row with no catches then go back to the chuck.


    My faceplate set-up was using 1/4" screws, not too pleased with the unfinished back on the cast chuck, from Sears I assume.

    If you are using the # 2 jaws you will get a better hold on a tenon that is 2" or maybe 2 1/4
    A three inch tenon in number 2 jaws won't hold too well
    Also you should make a flat for the tops of the jaws to rest on. Without the flat, the tenon will walk out of the chuck.


    I do agree about an optimum size and the further away you get from it the worse normally. OneWay claims these new wave jaws grip equally well throughout their working range. I can see how that could work from my mechanical design background but it also means that the chuck doesn't have the grip of a more specialized chuck at any opening.

    Foremost, take a class, get some mentoring, or at least watch a bowl demonstration.
    Once you master the basic techniques turning is much more rewarding.

    Experience may be the best teacher but the exams are hell!


    I can't disagree with a word here, particularly the last line! It seems I have a very active chapter of the AAW not far away and meeting this Saturday. I'm short on cash but maybe a small wood or tool bribe will get me a little mentoring. My current knowledge has came from DVD's, video on the net, and reading. Obviously this leaves gaps and I have had two minutes personal mentoring do me a world of good a couple times in the past. The things that are obvious to experienced turners making video's aren't always so obvious to a beginner.

    Good luck

    al

    Thanks for the assistance and the wish of luck. I'll need both!




    Please take notice of what AL has said plus use safty gear face shield and dust join a club and you will get lots of help and meet some great people have fun but stay safe

    Cheers Ian


    Ian, I am working on joining a club and the AAW. Also going to upgrade my safety gear as soon as possible. Meantime I am trying to maintain the same operating practices learned in a lot of hours turning metal. Bowls and vessels from wood are quite a bit different and I know basically nothing about wood or turning tools. My metal lathes and cue lathe use tool post set-ups.

    Thank you for your post and suggestions!




    Al and Ian have said it all.

    Cedar definitely is a splinter prone wood. Since you are having catches, it is time to back up and work on some basics. It is obvious that something is not being done correctly. Working on basics is not as much fun as bowl turning, but how much fun is launching bowls into suborbital trajectories? Well maybe only you and the person who does your laundry know exactly how exciting it is. There is plenty good reason to get excited -- you can seriously injure yourself or end your life.

    When you are turning, what is your main concentration focused on?

    escape route to the nearest exit
    loss of feeling in your hands due to white knuckles
    wondering about relationship between woodturning and PTSD
    can't remember
    lost in simultaneously concentrating on the mechanics of holding the gouge, body movement, holding the right end of the tool, body position, etc.
    knowing where the cutting edge is with respect to the wood and using your eyes to follow the development of the bowl curvature.



    Bill, our writing styles seem similar. A little humor but delivering a serious message. In truth the wood breaking loose didn't make my pulse race. Wood is a bit scary to me because I don't know enough to judge the properties of an individual piece, or even sometimes the species as this thread makes obvious. I have many hours in on my own metal lathes and mill I once owned and from time spent working in a jobshop machine shop. Fear isn't an issue, have to remember caution. Every time I change a set-up or walk away awhile I spin up the machine standing to the side first after checking everything. I treat lathes much like a gun. If you don't check if a gun is loaded every time you pick it up, sooner or later it will be. If you don't check everything is tight, secure, and in the positions they should be around a lathe or other shop equipment, sooner or later it is going to bite you hard!

    The truth is I could list a dozen good reasons I shouldn't turn what I am attempting to turn and just be getting started on the list. I have weighed the considerations and decided to turn. There are risks, including some risks most don't share, that I have accepted. Hopefully, I will get past the rookie blues without too much damage!

    Thank you for still another helpful post. I learn from all and will reread this thread until I own all the information in it.




    Assume from your location that you're turning local aromatic "cedar" (Juniperus virginiana), the red stuff with the white sapwood? http://www.wood-database.com/lumber-...tic-red-cedar/ Since nobody else asked before opining, I will. Sort of special stuff extremely prone to honeycombing when drying, providing a hidden place to catch a tool being "ridden", and with a sort of ribbed trunk that puts white stripes where we normally would have heartwood, also an unanticipated point of weakness. Western red, eastern white are more uniform, and though soft, succumb to a properly presented edge no worse than any other softwood. other kinds out there as well, none of which are actually cedar. Only other I can think of which might grow locally would be Spanish cedar, which is really light and smells like humidors!

    Michael, local, red with white sapwood. Not a very strong smell with this stuff compared to something like they line closets with. Suspect it is local aromatic cedar with all of it's flaws for a beginner. I collected it locally after another named storm planning to core it for a pool cue or use it as sleeve material. No interest in wood turning when I collected it.

    Talon #2 shows either ribbed or smooth, which want different treatment to some degree. Both need a shoulder to ride on, and neither want to be tightened to crush the fairly weak heartwood or weak softwood. Smooth want snug only, ribbed 1/4 turn past snug. The dovetail on the smooth will draw to shoulder, the ribs won't, so you'll want to press as you tighten to get the best seating.

    These are the ribbed, new design "wave" jaws according to the paperwork. Although they are ribbed I also get the impression they pull the wood into the jaws slightly. I do hold the wood firmly in place while chucking, a lot of experience chucking other materials. Totally out to lunch on tightening the wood judging by your information and could be the final straw that is breaking the camel's back. Would you define snug as perhaps the grip to hold a baby animal without it escaping or a bit tighter? Regardless, from working with metal and plastic I am almost certain I overtightened from reading your description and then tightened slightly more multiple times when checking chuck pressure.

    Then, if I might be so bold, I suggest you leave a pillar in the center to maintain clamping pressure and a hold that will help keep things from cracking at the base of the tenon if you slip up with the gouge. Use it until you're as hollow as you want to be, then part and snap.

    Excellent advice, I could have kept the tenon longer, have even seen it done in a video I watched. The wood was very light for it's size and fairly well balanced at this point. I didn't see the need for keeping a tenon, beginner error here too.

    Other thing you might want to consider is reinforcing the tenon by running in some thin CA on its endgrain. Put it on to refusal, allow to cure, then remove the very surface to take out irregularities before chucking up.

    Never saw this anywhere or considered it while using thin CA to reinforce other areas. Yet another idea to put into practice.

    Thanks very much for digging into specifics and giving very specific suggestions, should help a bunch!



    Thanks to everyone. I will assemble a "cheat sheet" from this thread and put it by my lathe with a few other reminders. I am working with sharp tooling so most of my catches are just cuts and longish clean gouges, not violent catches. I also have some oak and wild cherry on the ground to pick up when weather and the land owner's time permits. Still not ideal wood for a beginner but it is much fresher and should be much more structurally sound than the cedar and partially rotten pecan I have tried to work with. I am working with the limitations I have to deal with right now. I can't complain though, I saw video of a man turning chess pieces with his toes with his human powered lathe. He would think he was in hog heaven with electricity, . . . or he might go bleh, I can do better without it! Either way, some better off than me, some a lot worse off. I will sort out woodturning with a little time and the excellent advice so freely given. Thank you all again, the assistance is much much appreciated!

    Hu Lowery
     
  7. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    Hu, a great many catches with bowl gouges are the result of the tool rotating. Not know your experience, I will try to briefly explain what that is caused by.

    Basically, when the wood is being cut, there is a force exerted on the tool by the wood as it is rotating past the edge. That direction is downward so that it is pushing the tool against the toolrest with a considerable amount of force. That is fine and dandy except for one thing -- the tool shank is round. Being round means that the tool can suddenly rotate if the downward force and the upward reaction are not in line with one another. When the tool suddenly rotates, the right part of the cutting edge is no longer cutting the right part of the wood. We call that a "catch" because we needed a word that could be used in polite company, however, we know what another turner is really saying when he invokes the word. We don't like to say the "c" word, so how do we keep the tool from rotating? The solution is to keep the part of the edge that is doing the cutting centered over the tool so that the downward force is going through the middle of the tool and not off to one side. This may seem too confusing to follow initially, but after doing it once or twice, I think that the picture will become apparent. The other thing is maintaining the desired angle of the edge to the wood. Once past that fundamental hump, the rest of the process is simply cutting to achieved the desired shape. That is the only hard part of woodturning -- creating an aesthetically pleasing shape. At the most basic level, that means pleasing yourself only. However, all of us eventually reach the point of thinking about pleasing others unless we have a very large warehouse to store all our creations. :D
     
  8. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    Hu,
    Go to that club meeting!

    At the very least ask if there is anyone who wold let you watch them turn a bowl.

    The bowl gouge properly sharpened will do all the turning on the bowl, the parting tool can shape the tenon.
    I prefer a spindle gouge for truing tenons but a lot of good turners use a parting tool


    What bill said above on avoiding catches is excellent advice.
    I always hold the tool handle against my body. Bill may have said it and I missed it.
    This keeps the tool from rotating when it shouldn't. I cut the wood mostly by rotating my body and shifting weight from one foot to the forward foot which s pointed generally in the direction of the cutThe hands and arms don't do much.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  9. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    my experience


    Bill,

    I do understand exactly what you are saying, in theory sitting here at the computer. I have felt the tool trying to rotate quite a few times trying to get a big gouge in a small deep opening. Destroyed one piece fighting the same catch over and over trying to figure out why it was catching hollowing. I could see that the corners weren't catching. What I didn't know before finding a pretty good video on basics put on the net by The Golden Triangle woodturners was that I had the gouge rotated far too far open.

    I am still at the point where I get confused or uncertain on the lathe sometimes when swapping tools or areas of the piece I am working on. I often shut down and verify I am attacking at the right angles and always try to start with a modest cut. I am aware that the tool is often rotating when it catches, sometimes I just plain approach the wood wrong or get out of position a few degrees and a point I don't want to contact does and I get a nasty slice or long nasty gouge which means I will have to take a tenth or more off an area I thought was at final shape.

    One reason I am trying to cut some every day is to build the automatic recognition of how I need to present the tool. Until I get a small building or two moved here I am working on my back patio, open to the world other than an aluminum roof. Thank goodness for understanding landladies on this old farm! Lines of heavy rain moving through today and no wood that is wise to turn so I'm doing other things including a thorough refacing of my gouges and hollowing tool.

    I have less than forty hours total time on a wood lathe using turning tools and am still working on my first barrel of shavings. Much of that time was of questionable value until I got past some major equipment and tooling issues. A bit greener than grass. The cue lathes and particularly the metal machines teach angles and leverage in a hurry. transferring that knowledge to the wood lathe and turning tools takes a little time and experience. Somebody mentioned something about patients too, I have to admit I didn't understand that part. I'm not a doctor.;)

    Hu
     
  10. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    I didn't say it so thanks for mentioning it. I was trying to be brief in my description which is not my usual style. Keeping the tool next to the body not only helps stabilize the tool from rotating, but it also facilitate cutting smoother curves.

    If you cut with your hand that is towards the back of the handle just flailing in the breeze rather than being tucked against your body, it will be much more difficult to make a smoothly curved surface (a smooth curve is not quite the same thing as a smooth finish, but things work better when they go hand-in-hand).
     
  11. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    doing fairly well there


    Between watching video and doing much the same thing when I did auto body repair I am pretty good about anchoring the back of the tool.(yes I have done a lot of things over the years, a friend has been making a list and it is over twenty items long. "Jack of all trades, master of . . ." I forget how the rest of that goes.)

    Thinking I want fairly long handles on most of my tools. Doing other things it is bad practice to put your hand over the end of a tool or to jam the end into your body. A handle that reaches just past my anchor point most of the time seems like a good idea. Of course it can be a little awkward at times too. Debating the modular tools with the straight handles, I sure like the feel of a well shaped wood handle though so the jury is still out on that one.

    I have a few thoughts about tool handles but a wise old friend once told me that he was sure that after I finished reinventing the wheel it would be rounder and better than ever. I laughed but took the hint. I'm probably not quite ready to reinvent how wood is turned yet!

    Hu
     
  12. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    Thanks!


    Thanks! I am very familiar with handling tools this way, it is often the best way to do auto body repair, something I have done in the past. Good to be reminded it applies to the lathe too. I did have a tendency to want to swing the hand at first, watching video and catching myself I have largely broke that habit before it gained much traction.

    I see better with my fingers than my eyes too, another carry over from body work.

    Hu
     
  13. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    I could lie and say that I never had any nerve wrecking bowl shattering doomsday catches before things suddenly clicked one day. Nah, you wouldn't believe me anyway so I won't say it. That does not mean I no longer have catches. I have had a few lapses of concentration where I unintentionally poked a spinning turning with the business end of a tool.

    Here is something that worked for me and might possibly work for you. I was overloading my brain with trying to concentrate on a multitude of of things simultaneously. Things clicked when I figured out that I only needed to focus on just one thing -- how the bevel meets the wood. Rather than getting all wrapped around the axle thinking about where the handle ought to be and what the roll angle should be and the phase of the moon, I just looked at the bevel meeting the wood. If that is right then it stands to reason that everything else has to be right, given that the tool is a rigid body -- I don't need to look at my hand or foot positions or any of that other distracting stuff (within reason of course). I'm not not saying to be oblivious to dangers like poking your fingers into a spinning hunk of wood. Just put down the mental protractor that beginners use to measure body angles.
     
  14. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    I see that you are probably well past some of my suggestions. I think that practice is the main thing now. Your other skills have given you a great advantage over most beginners. If I get a chance, I will post a picture of my first bowl.
     
  15. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    I'm trying to always bring the tool in almost closed when practical, angle and rotation, then open up. An issue I'm sure all wrestled with at one time is remembering to control the tool at all times when it is close to the piece. I am trying to implement a three inch minimum rule, come in and bring it back out on line until the tool is three inches from the outer edge of the piece. This is because I want to rest the business end of the tool on the tool rest and then position it. When the piece is spinning less than a quarter inch away . . . um, I think the way you said to spell that is C A T C H. Doesn't sound like that though. I sometimes get sloppy withdrawing the tool from a deep hole too. That shouldn't be an issue but I think I'm turning too long of sessions sometimes and losing focus a little bit. Schooled that out when making shortrun production runs of a few dozen or a few hundred pieces, out of practice though and I need to get back in the groove of working around a machine.

    While I do know that as close as possible is the general rule I seem to be able to manage my tool a little better if my rest is 1/2 to 3/4 inch off of the piece. Still have plenty of leverage for a moderate grip to I have to learn what works for me within the rules of general safe practice. I'm still trying to find the right spindle height for me and a few things.

    I am working very hard to try to get this going. The information you and others are providing is a big help and just talking about it forces me to think about what I am doing right and wrong, always a good thing.

    Thanks very much for taking this time with me. It is sincerely much appreciated!

    Hu
     
  16. hu lowery

    hu lowery

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    the gaps are the issue!



    I do bring a lot of experience doing many different things to the table. The danger is that it is easy to assume I know a critical step here and there that I don't have a clue about. A lot of truth to the old saying, "the devil is in the details." I can't figure out where to store a picture to post myself but I took one yesterday of an almost full garbage can of shavings and a little brandy snifter shaped vessel in the top of them. That is pretty much my total collected work woodturning. I know how to do great and wonderful things with and on some machines. I am woefully ignorant concerning holding the wood and cutting it with conventional turning tools.

    I do agree that I need a ton of practice which I am trying to gain in a hurry. Please don't overestimate my knowledge though. The gaps in my knowledge can and might get me in a world of trouble such as misusing the wood chuck. One thing, I do know the machines and the material can badly maim or kill, I respect them. Hopefully that will help keep me out of most trouble.

    Hu
     
  17. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

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    Here is a picture of my first bowl. It did not really deserve setting up my real photo equipment so I just used an iPhone to grab a shot.

    stuff-104_web.jpg

    If you want to know how to post an image, here are the steps:

    1. Beneath the text box where you enter your message, there is a section called Additional Options. Inside that section is a button labeled Manage Attachments. Click on it.
    2. There will be a pop-up window where you can enter the file location either on your computer on the web if you have an online gallery. In my case, the file is on my computer so I clicked on the button labeled Browse.
    3. This opens up another window labeled File Upload. Navigate to the file location, click on the file name, and then click Open. That window then closes.
    4. Back at the first pop-up window, click the Upload button. Note that you have file size limitations and if the file is too large, it won't upload.
    5. Close the pop-up window.
    6. Now, back at the box where you are entering the text for your post, click where you wish to insert the image, then notice the symbols at the top of the text box. Click on the paperclip symbol. You will see the filename in a little pop-up -- Click on it.
    7. An attach code will appear where you clicked in the previous step.
    8. That's all there is to it. If you want to see how it looks, you can click on the Preview Post button that is next to the Submit Reply button. When you are satisfied that everything looks the way that you want, click Submit Reply.
    The "bowl" was made in a class conducted by a local woodworking store. The instructor didn't really know how to teach turning, but he was a nice guy and we became friends for quite a while. He did encourage me to join the local woodturning club and I followed his suggestion. It was the best thing that I could have done to get on the right track to really learning about turning. I suppose that I could try could try to claim that I did some surface embellishments including carving and piercing. :D

    It is a world class example of everything that a bowl should not be, but we all start at ground zero from where there is only one direction to go.
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2013
  18. Dean Center

    Dean Center

    Joined:
    May 4, 2010
    Messages:
    455
    Location:
    Bozeman, MT
    Hu,
    If I read your original post correctly, you have found some play in your chuck. I'm not familiar with the one-way, but in the nova chucks I have, this often comes from the grub screw that secures the insert getting loose, producing movement between the insert and the chuck. If the one-way doesn't use an insert, perhaps some of the board members could address this potentially worrisome problem.
     
  19. hu lowery

    hu lowery

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2013
    Messages:
    485
    Location:
    Roseland LA USA
    that isn't the issue here


    Dean,

    I took it as far down as I dared with the three screws that pull the Talon and insert together and remain to secure the insert. After running awhile they do tighten down a little further although the screws are scary tight to turn. Stuck the whole thing in the freezer and I'll check if I can move things any more in thirty minutes. That is the kind of thing born again bachelors can do, hard to explain machinery in the freezer to the wife unit.

    Hu
     
  20. Bill Boehme

    Bill Boehme Administrator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2005
    Messages:
    8,125
    Location:
    Dalworthington Gardens, TX
    Home Page:
    The Oneway scroll chucks do not use setscrews. The insert and the body have a precision taper fit not unlike a Morse taper connection. Cap screws are also used to pull the two mating pieces together for a very tight fit.

    As I understood it, the looseness that was mentioned was referring to the bit of play between the scroll and inner jaws when nothing is being held. This is something that all woodturning scroll chucks have in common if I am not mistaken. Once the jaws are loaded either in compression or expansion, the free play is no longer a factor and and the alignment is precise.
     

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