Tips on Crack repair

Discussion in 'Tutorials and Tips' started by John Tisdale, May 12, 2014.

  1. John Tisdale

    John Tisdale

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2014
    Messages:
    106
    Location:
    Dallas, TX
    For guys turning less-than-perfect logs:
    Repairing cracks: Dave Schweitzer of D-Way tools turned me on to Aero Marine 300. It's a lower viscosity than the System-3 or WEST. I mix all epoxy with a jewelers scale - put 5-grams resin and 2.2-grams in a cup with a bit of colorant and your set. For fine cracks, I'll draw it into a small hypodermic needle syringe, then attach the needle, and shoot into the cracks. I can shoot the 300 with a #22 which is really fine - you can buy at any drugstore or at a feedstore. Easy to clean by drawing/shooting acetone a few times. One larger cracks, mix the 300 with colloidal silica, color as needed, and you're set. The jewelers scale will pay for itself quickly - how anyone can successfully mix 7.2-grams without a scale is beyond me - that's about 1/4" in a little mouthwash cup.
    How do you apply epoxy into the inside of a hollow-form? Simple: Go to your local archery store, archery range or general sporting goods store. Buy an aluminum arrow. They come in all sizes: I found that a 1913 (19/64" dia, .013 wall thickness) is perfect to hold a flux brush. If a bit too large, one wrap of tape will secure.
    Of course the above assumes the log is rough turned and then dried for several months - you can't fix cracks or problems in wet wood.
    Never clean your hands with a solvent - keep a container of Fast Orange nearby - cleaning with acetone or any solvent allows the bad stuff an accelerated entry into your bloodstream.
    John
     
    Jon Klobofski likes this.

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