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Tool holders

odie

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Anyone who's "obsessive" about polishing the toolrest would certainly be able to find fault with a magnetized tool. I think the first and last time I filed my rest was when I bought the lathe. Had some souvenirs from the previous owner. Five years on, and the tool slides without a bounce. I'm obsessive about keeping control of the tool, which means on the rest, and working finesse from the end of the handle with mechanical advantage, not my fingers.

MM, John.......

I think both of you make valid points. The real truths you speak are somewhere in the middle.

It's not a bad idea to polish the tool rests, but the ones that are cast are probably more in need than those that are made from harder metals. I wouldn't consider it "obsessive", but I do polish the tool rests every year, or two. If I put a nick on the tool rest (which hasn't happened for quite a long time, knock on wood!), I will take care of that, immediately.

MM.....mechanical advantage is a great thing, but I wouldn't discount the upside of using your fingers to give you some amount of control. After all, it's your fingers that are a direct link to the artist! :D

ooc
 
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Diplomat

MM, John.......

I think both of you make valid points. The real truths you speak are somewhere in the middle.

It's not a bad idea to polish the tool rests, but the ones that are cast are probably more in need than those that are made from harder metals. I wouldn't consider it "obsessive", but I do polish the tool rests every year, or two. If I put a nick on the tool rest (which hasn't happened for quite a long time, knock on wood!), I will take care of that, immediately.

MM.....mechanical advantage is a great thing, but I wouldn't discount the upside of using your fingers to give you some amount of control. After all, it's your fingers that are a direct link to the artist! :D

ooc

Odie-you are becoming quite the diplomat this past year!!! Congrats, Gretch
 
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tool rest

Allan Batty made the point that you should not use a tool rest over 4 to 6 inches for finishing cuts, there is vibration out on the end of our 12 inch tool rests :eek: course that is a bit obsessive, not sure how to compare it to magnetized tools
 
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MM.....mechanical advantage is a great thing, but I wouldn't discount the upside of using your fingers to give you some amount of control. After all, it's your fingers that are a direct link to the artist! :D

ooc

Consider WHY mechanical advantage counts. Note I did not say "leverage," because we're not prying anything.

With the tool extending 1" (too much, but easier to understand) over the fulcrum formed by the rest, and a total tool length of 17" , you can make micro adjustments in pitch and yaw more precisely. It's nearly one to one with your close hand. Means to move 1/32 of an inch at the tip requires 1/32 inch precision on the fingers. Requires 1 inch if the movement is input at the end of the handle. Which gives more precision, especially when you consider the relative strength of your wrist compared to your phalanges at resisting rise over latewood and plunge into early, which can easily reach that dimension? Are you really capable of discerning 1/32, much less making the input?

Carvers will certainly recognize the method of pushing one hand against the other for best tool control. The hand advancing the tool is met with resistance from the opposite hand. That hand which anchors the tool to the rest keeps you from overrunning when making short moves quite handily.
 
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Requires 1 inch

Would that be 1/2" to move 1/32 at 16 to 1 ratio?

Wouldn't say I "polish" the tool rest, but it does get belt sanded to remove nicks from parting tool and then sanded smooth with 400 or 600, maybe once a year. Definitely makes for a smoother cut.

What was the question again?
 

odie

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Odie-you are becoming quite the diplomat this past year!!! Congrats, Gretch

Hey, thanks Gretch.......

I can see how that post could be viewed as diplomatic.....however it really wasn't the guiding principle in my post. I merely spoke exactly as I thought.

Being able to disagree without being disagreeable.......now, there is definitely a talent for doing that well! :)D & :eek:)

I believe most of us who use this forum would really rather most differences of opinion be discussed and contemplated.....instead of avoided. (Some people might label avoidance diplomacy, but to my way of thinking, many disagreements are a great opportunity to explore differing viewpoints.....ultimately, a chance to learn by myself and others, who only observe the proceedings.)

I am here to make myself a better turner..... I am happy to help others when I can, socialize with other turners from time to time.......but without the underlying goal of improving my lathe experience, I wouldn't be here.

ooc
 
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Wow! Thanks for all the photos on tool holders. I am going to use PVC pipe on a round plywood base so I can see the business end of the tools. I have an old hospital fluid bag holder that I can remanufacture for a roll around base. If it works I will post pictures. As to tool control; I have recently realized that a smaller cut is much more beneficial than a big gouging cut. My thoughts were: my mentor was cutting a shaving so why are my cuts not smooth because I was making larger shavings than they were. Don't know if that makes sense.
 
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Tool Rack Hanging

I built this rack. The only change I'd make would be to create a dimple or inset from a forstner to ensure that if a tool gets bumped its less likely to come out.

1x4 redwood was used for this with 1" forstner holes drilled and split down the middle with a bandsaw as a support.
 

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Better late than never I guess. I took a cheap microwave stand and modified it. Added racks and a shelf under the top with recesses for the tool handles to rest. The racks on the sides are hanging on french cleats so they can be switched out. Put the whole works on wheels. I, too, like the business end of my tools up where I can see them.
 

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I don't have a picture...

But what I did was take a piece of 2x4 about 18-20" long. Drill some 1-1/2" holes through the middle of it about 2" on center, down the length. Then cut it length wise through the middle of the holes. This gave me 2 pieces which I fastened to the top of a 1x10(x10" long) length wise. Next I took a piece of 2x4(x10) and cut it down to 3x2. I screwed this to the bottom of my 1x10 and it fits into the slot in the bed of my lathe (3" so that when it hits the end of the bed of the lathe, it stops, preventing me from accidentially pushing it off the end of the lathe). I liken it to a Painter's Palette - only in my case it holds tools not colors.

The top 8-10 tools that I use the most, fit in the cut holes. I even screwed some magnets from old hard drives (HD) to the face of the 1x10 that I use to put miscellaneous things on (Face plate wrenches, chuck wrenches, etc.) I also use left over HD magnets to hold sand paper, pencil on a string, and finishing swabs, to the lathe for easy access - but I digress.

It does cut down and bed length, however 90% of what I turn is smaller than 36" in length anyway, and when I need the extra length, I simply lift it off the bed and set it on the workbench next to the lathe. But it is convenient as it is only an arms reach away and it is always at my right side. Oh and did I mention I made it out of scrap wood?
 

odie

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I have enjoyed this thread immensely. We often see other's turnings, but not often do we get a chance to see their shop area.......a very personal thing for all of us!

One theme that seems almost universal is a desire to avoid clutter on the lathe......this is good and proper, not to mention the safety aspects of avoiding excess junk piled around, and on the lathe!

As many of us are, I am guilty of not always keeping up with clutter on the benchtops and other areas.....but, the lathe top is ALWAYS kept clear of excess clutter.....

I was doing some searches for information about steady rests, and ran across this thread:

http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=1875

Scroll down to post #6

This person could probably use a little more organization, and the safety aspects of working in this environment could be questioned. I bring this up, not to ridicule, but to point out why paying attention to keeping tools organized is not just a matter of convenience for the worker.....it is a matter of shop safety, as well.

ooc
 
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Tool Holder

I screwed PVC to a plywood board and then screwed the whole thing to the wall at the end of my lathe. The PVC lets the chips fall through because there is no bottom. Haveing the board at the end of the lathe keeps me form reaching across the running lathe to pick up another tool.
 
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My Nova, mini and grizzly are relegated to one corner of the shop to keep the floor clear for the larger cabinetry I do. As a result, with space at a premium I've got stuff mounted to walls, ceilings, and in drawers and cabinets beside and under the lathes.

It's cozy... good thing I'm short :D
 

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tool /equipment holder

3-4 years ago I bought a 3 tiered kitchen "butcher block" -about 2ft square on wheels. Cost $68 then on sale for $34 and on senior nite an additional few dollars off. Net cost was $29. Couldn't buy the wood for that!!! I added 1/2 " strips on one side of ea shelf so things wouldn't roll off. Top holds most often used turning tools, other shelves have sanding stuff, sealer, min oil, paste wax, and other misc things. It;s at my right side and can move easily for cleaning. I love it, Gretch
 
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I am with you on this one

I don't agree with that-nothing psychological about it. If someone hands me a magnetized tool, the resistance, however slight, feels as if there's something wrong. The way I turn and teach is finesse and lightness of touch. The ideal tool/toolrest interaction for me would be totally frictionless. It's why I'm obsessive about polishing the toolrest. I suspect others feel it as well, others probably not.:)

In another life I spent a lot of time dealing with magnets and tools and now have a very sensitive touch to most things magnetic and I dont care for any of my tool being magnetic.

Some of my tools rests are hardened so as to not to get nicks, dings or whatever. The cast iron ones I try and not use for roughing as it will batter the living daylights out of the edge , especially on dry Australian burls.
 
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My tools are also mounted on the wall behind my lathe, on mgnetic strips. The advantage nobody has mentioned is that when i set a tool on the lathe bed it doesn't roll off! There is some resistance when on the toolrest, I certainly do notice it but it doesn't slow me down any. Don't forget to shut your lathe off and wait for it to stop spinning before you reach over it for a tool. Sure would hate to see someone hurt!
 
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I've been adding tool storage at roughly the same rate I've been adding tools. I have a wall rack that I need to relocate, a sharpening station that I built from a magazine plan that holds 10 tools and most recently made a short rack beneath the bed.
 

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odie

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I've been adding tool storage at roughly the same rate I've been adding tools. I have a wall rack that I need to relocate, a sharpening station that I built from a magazine plan that holds 10 tools and most recently made a short rack beneath the bed.

Hey, you're supposed to be lifting those weights, Bob!

:D

ooc
 
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Here is what works for me. I know I'll be criticized for the business end up but like I said it works for me. It's on a 6" lazy susan bearing.

I keep mine business side up in a bucket lined with PVC pipe - same idea as yours without the lazy susan.

I've been keeping my tools this way for over 10 years; let them criticize away.
 
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