Tool rest issues? Calling all turners...lol

Discussion in 'Newbie' started by Christopher Martin, Dec 2, 2014.

  1. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    I am having some sever issues with all my tool rest" binding "not gliding like they should. One tool rest is cast iron and two others are rubust. Called robust which are awsome to deal with but havn't get to the issue of the cause.

    Now I can not think what it could be I use red 3m cloth to clean any gunk off the rest and tools, and in conjuction with the 3m cloth I use CMT bit and blade cleaner and Top coat cast iton cleaner.... now to me they feel fine for 3 -5 mins. of

    turning then they start showing wear marks on both tool and rest and have drag on them ... Any help would be great.... Could it be possible these cleaners did something to the metals integrity some how.


    :mad::mad::mad:
     

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  2. john lucas

    john lucas

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    I'm guessing it cleaned any lubricant off. Rub some parafin on it or most often I use WD-40. I think you will be amazed how easy the tool will move. I spray the bed of the lathe and banjo with WD-40 and then wipe it down gently with a paper towel
     
  3. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    I have tried everything.... at one point or another, I will try it a few more times and see but I don't think it will matter last time with in a week i used mineral oil as I use it to clean the bed ways and alway incledues tool rest as well.
     
  4. john lucas

    john lucas

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    I'm not familiar with the 3M red. I typically sand the tool rest with 220 or 400 grit. One other thought but it's pretty remote. If the tool is magnetized it could cause some drag. I've never had problems with magnetized tools but I've heard other complain about it.
     
  5. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    3m red sand pad http://www.menards.com/main/paint/s...-trade-hand-sanding-pads/p-1419995-c-8196.htm
    CMT bit and blade cleaner http://www.menards.com/main/p-2315454-c-10080.htm


    Also tried the w-d-40 same results no differents... And it is doing it to all my lathe tools. M2 steel , cryo steel doesn't matter.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2014
  6. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    I have a couple of robust tool rests with the hardened steel rod.
    They work great. Maintenance free.

    Like John I will use some 220 paper to clean the sap and other dirt off. The steel on steel gives a friction free slide.

    I used to use Top Kote on my table saw. It was sort of Teflon like surface coat that made boards slide easily.
    If you are using the same Top Kote it may be getting rubbed off in a spot creating a ridge where it is not rubbed off.

    Also, I assume you don't hang your tools on magnets. A magnetized tool can act as you describe.
    Tool movement is fluid when lots of lubrication present but drag significantly as the lubrication is worn away.
    A light cleaning has always worked with my robust rests. Maybe some Wd40 or Ballistol when I treat the ways.

    Al
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2014
  7. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    I don't use a magnetized tool holded all my tools are hunt on the wall from plywood construction. Altho you bring up magitized issue I turned a screw driver into a 3 way point but only used it maybe 3-4 times so I know its not that and I just pick up a new rest from robust and same issues... glide free for like 3 passes and then it starts the resistance from dragging you can see the wear marks that is only 3 to 4 passes and I am not pressing down't on the rest or anything. So I douced my tool down in dw 40 and rest as well see if that does anything different tomorrow but when I checked it after 15mins. same. Now the old rest cast iron 2 passes and it leaves almost a gouge scrape you can feel with your finger nail something is going on...
     
  8. odie

    odie

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  9. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    It is an interesting problem.
    What tools are you using?

    HSS should not wear on the steel rod and the steel rod should not wear from HSS.

    Good luck...

    Al
     
  10. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    I am using bowl gouge 5/8ths 3/8ths spindle gouge 1/2 , 3/8th . 3/4 spindle roughting gouge some easy wood tool ... hand made deals they all are giving me the same issue so I know its something I must have used or are doing something.
     
  11. robo hippy

    robo hippy

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    The hardened drill rod should not need any treatment at all, unless you are turning some sloppy wet and very pitchy/sticky wood. The residue can be cleaned off with a scotch brite pad and some solvent, or I have a wire wheel on one of my grinders. Maybe a remote possibility that some drill rod got out without being hardened. If you take a file to it and can mark it up, that would be the case. Other than that, I don't know.

    robo hippy
     
  12. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    The only thing I can figure I'm doing different is maybe i'm putting slight down ward pressure with out noticing i'm doing it. It seemed to gradurally get worse so now I am more to believe it's me and not the tools at all... I have rhumitoide arthritis so twisting and bending can sometimes be painful and i have been turning with a over hand grip. that is the only thing i can come up with.
     
  13. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    Heavy cuts in bowl turning 1/2-3/4 wide shaving put a lot of downward pressure on the tool rest.
    A HSS gouge and the tool rest should not be harmed by a heavy cut.

    Everyone has to adapt to their own range of motion.

    I use a side ground gouge. My forward hand is mostly a thumb and forefinger with the thumb pushing behind the bevel.
    In various cuts I use an open palm on top of the tool.
    My foreword hand just holds the tool against the rest.
    The backward hand holds the tool against my side or hip and my body motion guides the tool as I shift weight from the back foot to the foot pointed in the direction of the cut.

    Try The file test suggested by Reed on the rest and on your tools. It should skate on both.

    Al
     
  14. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    "Hand made deals" ???? Not sure what this means. If your tools are home made then they may need to be hardened.
    The file should skate on the tools too

    Al
     
  15. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    Well even my hand made deals are made from m2 hss which was a stinker it grind up but it's done with now... And I have not done the file test be knowing steels pretty well it will pass no problem. So maybe I need to look at the way i'm turning a bit more.
     
  16. robo hippy

    robo hippy

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    Are you involved with the nearest club? You can ask a question and get several different answers. Kind of hard to tell for sure what is going on through the forum.

    robo hippy
     
  17. hockenbery

    hockenbery AAW Advisor Staff Member

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    What is so puzzling about your problem is that hardened steel against hardened steel there is very little friction.
    The two steels should not change during turning.

    Sap build up on the rest can be an issue with wet woods and some dry woods.
     
  18. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    I did , used to belong to the wood turning guild out of grand rapids , Mi but I can't seem to make it to the demos or meeting they are to early for me. I do not function in the morning cause of my disability.

    I have not totally figured it out but I think i am on the right path. Just wanted to thank everyone for their coments and tring to help me out.
     
  19. Christopher Martin

    Christopher Martin

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    Well I know a what little bit of pressure I put to the tool and with some wood fibers and shavings you can see what happens in the pics. that is why I think there is something else going on.

    I did do a file test no issues like what i tought and did it on my cast iron well you can see a difference.
     
  20. john lucas

    john lucas

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    My only other thought would be some kind of lumps or build up from finishes or green wood. The 3M pad can just sort of ride over these lumps. It might polish them but won't remove them. Take a file and hold it in both hands and push it down the rest so it's perpendicular to the rest. Do this a few times at varying angles up and down to make a nice smooth round surface. That should take out any bumps. Then hit it lightly with some 220 paper and put some WD-40 on it. If it doesn't run smooth then I will be totally perplexed.
     

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