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Turned my first "plate" / sanding help?

Joined
Jun 8, 2004
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Ok, I guess experiance will decrease the chatter and marks, but I still need some help.

I turned my first plate and it came out good. 7 1/2 inches. It required a lot of sanding. Not only did I burn my fingers a couple of times, I also twisted my wrist slightly.

My questions.

1. I know experiance will decrease the amount of marks on the piece, but is there any tips for sanding.

2. I remember seeing a tool you could make from a broom handle and a bolt that you used sticky sandpaper with. As the piece turned, it turned the sandpaper.

Thanks
John
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
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Location
Southwest Missouri
Website
www.hiltonhandcraft.com
1) Tips for sanding....

- Keep the sandpaper moving around. Don't stay in one spot too long.
- Constantly keep using new (unclogged or used) areas of the sandpaper.
- Light touches. Don't press too hard
- If your fingers are burning, you're doing one of the above wrong.
- Do NOT, under any circumstances, wear a glove! There's no good excuse for it in the slightest.
- Sweep in and out from the center of the turning (especially on your plate as you have room to do that)
- Use quality sandpaper. It makes a difference!
- Start with a low grit number, take out ALL cutting marks and tearout, etc. before moving on.
- Don't skip grits ... like jumping from 150 to 320 or something like that.
- Don't wrap the sandpaper around a finger or hand or allow it to do it itself. Tear off short sections.
- When you don't feel as much "grab" to the paper, it's dull. Throw it away.
- You can roll it up to get to coves and beads.
- You can put some foam rubber on the backside to help support it and make it get into those coves and beads easier.
- If you have some tearout or othe problem area where the wood fibers are just laying over on you as you sand, try supporting those fibers with CA glue, mineral oil, thinned finish, wax or just whatever is going to be compatible with your final finish to help stiffen and support those fibers as you sand them.- If possible, use the reverse capabilities of your lathe to sand both directions.
- Wipe or blow off the wood after sanding with every grit. The last grit particles are lodged on the wood and you don't want to sand grooves in the wood at the next grit level with those leftovers.
- Try not to round over edges of your wood piece unless they're designed to be rounded.
- Take precautions for your lungs due to the dust.
- Don't get your hands inside a vessel or other tricky area such as bark inclusions or holes, etc. just to sand them. Use something else to reach in there or around those areas for you.
- Heat is the enemy of sanding. It not only hurts your hand (if hand sanding) but also harms the wood and may create heat cracks or scortch marks if you get it too hot.
- Move your tailstock (with sharp center point) way out of the way ... yes, it hurts to stick the back of your hand or elbow with that point!


- and just a whole lot more that others will chime in on or you'll learn with experience like the rest of us did ............


2) That's called a "passive sander". It's alright but not nearly as effective as "power sanding". Power sanding is done with a hand drill and a foam covered attachment fitted into the drill. You can just as easily make one or the other yourself without buying one already made. Both can been seen here.

Hope this helped,
 
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
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Location
Traverse City, MI
About the only things I'd add are:

- Keep speeeds slow. I run my DVR at 250 RPM (as slow as it will go) and run my variable speed drill about as slowly as I can.

- Power sanding, cut with the sandpaper in the same direction you would with a gouge, i.e., base to rim on the outside, rim to bottom on the inside (maybe not all that germain with a platter, but the same things apply). Yes sandpaper will tear out grain.

- Don't make the mistake thinking that a piece of used/worn out 220 grit is the same thing as 320. It's not. It's just a dull 220 grit tool. Throw it away. A comment I read somewhere a few months ago was "Use sandpaper as if someone else were paying for it."

And I'm sure there's a lot more.

Whit
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
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That was not the link I saw, but a much better one. Thank you very much. I will be making one tonight. As for the other tips, I will be applying them quickly. The internet is amaizing, it used to take years and apprentice work to learn a lot of these thing. Now you can just ask a question and get tons of information.
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2004
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Location
Southwest Missouri
Website
www.hiltonhandcraft.com
Not that I'm speaking directly to you, Doghouse, but just people in general about public internet forums such as this....


It is just information and opinion. Take it for what it's worth, nothing more. You can never know where the information is really coming from; what the poster is really thinking; why they're posting it; or how it really applies to your specific situation. There is NO subsitute for actual experience. Take what you learn and the information/opinion that you receive and apply it to your work and your style. You may find that it's completely the wrong advice ... either by intention of the poster or just by accident.

While I'm a staunch advocate of the online exhange of information, I do wish for far more apprenticeship opportunities. Those apprenticeships at least taught by direct example (if not always hands-on experience or instruction) and not simply (sometimes) questionable and uncertain information/opinion.

BTW, I always include my own postings, articles, and opinions in those that should never be taken as the only and last word on a subject. Take it for what it's worth and nothing more. Gain knowledge by your own experience ... just be informed.
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2004
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Yet when someone takes the time to articulate such a clear and well organized post as you did above with logical thoughts and non condescending language, it is easily recognized that the person's information is worthwhile.

Thank you again for the info.
 
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
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Location
Austin, TX
Website
www.woodturner.org
I think Andrew has drawn out a nice outline of what should be done while sanding. I tend to spend a lot of time sanding because I'm not a great turner and sanding can solve some of that. When handsanding with the piece spinning on the lathe I do use gloves.

In general I follow all the other steps that Andrew outlines. But if you accidently press to hard or spend too much time on one piece of sandpaper it burns your fingers. I would rather heat up a glove than my tender pinkies! So that's what works for me, but it's just a personal preference. :cool2:
 
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