• We just finished moving the forums to a new hosting server. It looks like everything is functioning correctly but if you find a problem please report it in the Forum Technical Support Forum (click here) or email us at forum_moderator AT aawforum.org. Thanks!
  • Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Dave Roberts for "2 Hats" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 22, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Walnut Stump Wood

Joined
Jul 24, 2008
Messages
717
Likes
189
Location
Montfort, Wisconsin
I recently cut some of the roots off a walnut stump and cut it into blocks and pen blanks. The wood is really wet as it was cut in the winter so much of the sap is in the roots. Also I power washed it to get as much of the dirt and rocks out as possible before using the chain saw.

When I cut it up with the band saw I ran into pockets of soft wood and even some grubs.

I'm at a loss now to know if I should seal it as is or let it air dry a bit before doing anything. There is some mold already growing on the wood.

I appreciate your thoughts.

walnutwoodmold.jpg


mold.jpg
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,116
Likes
9,818
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Dave.......

You might want to rough out at least one bowl, but leave it extra thick. Anchorseal completely and keep a close eye on it.

Mildew is always a strong possibility with very high moisture content. This is why I say to leave it extra thick.......so, that gives you the option of returning it to the lathe and removing a layer without compromising the thickness you need for duration of seasoning time.......

That may give you an idea of what you can expect......but everything is guesswork until more clues are revealed.

ooc
 
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
3,540
Likes
15
Wax dip or paint the endgrain portions to help equalize the moisture loss and minimize end checks. Keep airflow up, but don't try to force drying. The white hairy mildew usually has little surface effect. It's that black/green stuff that spots in depth.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
2,054
Likes
1,145
Location
Peoria, Illinois
You have to get to turning, and right now! Stump wood will develop lots of drying stresses. It doesn't like to dry evenly, and every root has a pith. I'm loosing easy drying wood right now since our "spring" weather is more like summer. We had several days over 90 recently, and some humidity days that were below 40%. Both of those will be really hard on fresh cut wood.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
8,337
Likes
3,595
Location
Cookeville, TN
I agree with MM. Seal the endgrain with endgrain sealer or parrafin wax and put it out of the weather somewhere. If it has bugs don't stack it with other wood. It will take quite a while to dry but the wax will keep it green long enough you can rough turn some of it. for the pen blanks, box blanks etc you want it dry so just put it up and weigh a few pieces. when they stop losing weight they are dry enough to work. Be patient. It will pay off in the long run.
 
Joined
Apr 5, 2012
Messages
160
Likes
0
Location
Mosgiel New Zealand
I see some nice nut bowls as well as Odie said wet turn some now and soak them in 50/50 dishwash and water for about 2/3 weeks then place them in rack so the air can get at them you will find they will be dry in about 4weeks try it i do and get good results with very little movement and no cracks
 
Back
Top