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Want your opinion on Pic
- Thread starter Mark Warden
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2005
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You rotated the image to straighten it which is good, but you then needed to crop it to get rid of the evidence of what you did. Else, the picture police might be all over you. 
I would spend a few bucks for a piece of background material which is usually heavy paper or plastic. The color that I would recommend is a light neutral gray. There are various types of gray -- some has a blue tint and some has a brown tint -- but, you should get neutral gray which does not have any color bias. Really dark backgrounds can be a problem in lighting and exposure especially with an automatic point & shoot camera. Likewise, white backgrounds will pick up the color of everything and look anything but white in the photo. The white will also cause the bottom and side edges of the turning to become washed out looking. Worst of all is using a colored background, especially a brightly colored background. Its problems are almost too numerous to mention, but some of them are:
Lighting is important -- do not use the direct head-on flash from the built-in flash on the camera because it creates ugly hard edged shadows along with bright reflections off glossy surfaces. Diffuse lighting is best, so do not aim a light source directly at the turning -- instead you can point the light at a piece of white non-glossy poster board and let the diffuse light bounce back to the turning. You could also use a large piece of wax paper to diffuse the light. A white sheet between the light and subject can also be used. Having two light sources -- on the left and right of the subject is desirable for balanced lighting and elimination of deep shadows. The simplest and cheapest lighting and also about the best is "open shade". OPen shade is defined as outdoor light on a sunny day in which nothing is blocking light from the clear blue sky, but the subject and background are shaded from direct sunlight. Being underneath a large awning or carport is not open shade because they block most of the open sky, but the shade of a medium sized tree where there are not other trees too close and most of the clear blue sky is still visible would be considered open shade.
I would spend a few bucks for a piece of background material which is usually heavy paper or plastic. The color that I would recommend is a light neutral gray. There are various types of gray -- some has a blue tint and some has a brown tint -- but, you should get neutral gray which does not have any color bias. Really dark backgrounds can be a problem in lighting and exposure especially with an automatic point & shoot camera. Likewise, white backgrounds will pick up the color of everything and look anything but white in the photo. The white will also cause the bottom and side edges of the turning to become washed out looking. Worst of all is using a colored background, especially a brightly colored background. Its problems are almost too numerous to mention, but some of them are:
- The background color will distort the actual color of the wood.
- It will mess up the exposure in a P&S camera.
- The bright color distracts the viewer's eye away from the turning which should be the center of attention without any distractions.
- It may just be a matter of taste, but loud colored backgrounds look ugly to me.
Lighting is important -- do not use the direct head-on flash from the built-in flash on the camera because it creates ugly hard edged shadows along with bright reflections off glossy surfaces. Diffuse lighting is best, so do not aim a light source directly at the turning -- instead you can point the light at a piece of white non-glossy poster board and let the diffuse light bounce back to the turning. You could also use a large piece of wax paper to diffuse the light. A white sheet between the light and subject can also be used. Having two light sources -- on the left and right of the subject is desirable for balanced lighting and elimination of deep shadows. The simplest and cheapest lighting and also about the best is "open shade". OPen shade is defined as outdoor light on a sunny day in which nothing is blocking light from the clear blue sky, but the subject and background are shaded from direct sunlight. Being underneath a large awning or carport is not open shade because they block most of the open sky, but the shade of a medium sized tree where there are not other trees too close and most of the clear blue sky is still visible would be considered open shade.
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I like to use a light box I made from a cardboard box. Take a look at this website for an easily made light box (http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent)
I little knowledge of Photoshop Elements is useful too.
I little knowledge of Photoshop Elements is useful too.
- Joined
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Your light tent/box is a good idea for "high key" product photography, but without a DSLR, preferably shooting in RAW, and a very good working knowledge of Photoshop, it would not be very easy to get high quality results. Some P&S cameras can handle such things as setting an in-camera white balance, but it takes a bit of experience and knowledge. Also, I do not like the fact that high key backgrounds are likely to result in loss of edge definition with light colored glossy items such as wooden bowls. Our club tried that approach for instant gallery pictures, but most of the guys who used it were not happy with the results.
I have a DLSR and 3 studio strobes that I bought thinking they where lights 2 umbrellas and a softbox.I ordered the Thunder Gray background should be here tommorow.I'll keep playing with it I just was hoping for a starting point and some feedback on what people thought of the pic.Thanks for the link Paul cool site but I can't find anything on still photography same goes for strobist.com Thanks for the replies.
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Your turning is resting on a surface that includes a pile which distorts the line that would otherwise define the base. I'd recommend resting the turning on a short base that does not show in the photo but leaves the impression that the piece being photographed is floating instead of resting in/on a textured surface.
Thanks, Neal, I found it very helpful.
Gil
Gil
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Thanks for the input everyone Bill I got the background and I'm trying to get all the info I can on using the strobes thanks again for the links Paul.George I got rid of the cloth.Great tutorial Neil I just gotta get something worth editing.I finally got a shot I'm somewhat happy with and started an album if you want to check it out. http://www.aawforum.org/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=7029
I ordered a polarizing filter which John Lucas talks about in his tutorial but I can't find the filters that go on the lights does anyone know where to get them and what they would be listed under?
Thanks again for all the replies.
I ordered a polarizing filter which John Lucas talks about in his tutorial but I can't find the filters that go on the lights does anyone know where to get them and what they would be listed under?
Thanks again for all the replies.
I'll admit that I haven't read all the responses and links in this thread, but strobes and polarizing filters? For product shots?
Sounds like you're getting sucked into the photography vortex! Just be aware that it has NO bottom. DAMHIKT!!
I would argue that you don't need all that stuff to shoot pics of woodturnings. Some daylight bulbs and aluminum worklight reflectors would work just fine. For that matter, even shooting next to a window with a well-configured reflector panel would provide all the light you need.
Sounds like you're getting sucked into the photography vortex! Just be aware that it has NO bottom. DAMHIKT!!
I would argue that you don't need all that stuff to shoot pics of woodturnings. Some daylight bulbs and aluminum worklight reflectors would work just fine. For that matter, even shooting next to a window with a well-configured reflector panel would provide all the light you need.
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LOL Yes Neil I'm bit the strobes I got off craigs list cheap and I thought they where just lights.The polarizers are supposed to really cut back on glare.But to be honest its a good excuse to get some photo gear I wanted for awhile now.
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Enjoy the slide down that slope. Sascha Gast pulled me in over a year ago so I'm a relative newcomer but loving every minute of it. Here's my photo gallery.
The worst part is that it takes away from my turning time in a big way.
Neal
Nikon D80, Gitzo GT2540, RRS BH-40, 70-300VR, 18-70, 50/1.8, SB-800, too many bags, filters, etc to name
The worst part is that it takes away from my turning time in a big way.
Neal
Nikon D80, Gitzo GT2540, RRS BH-40, 70-300VR, 18-70, 50/1.8, SB-800, too many bags, filters, etc to name
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The worst part is that it takes away from my turning time in a big way.
I know the feeling Neil rite rite now I'm dealing with an injury that limits me to standing about an hour so I have lots of time to play around with the camera. But I miss my lathe time.Your work is great both turning and photography.Your zoo shots look like they could be in Nat Geo.
I know the feeling Neil rite rite now I'm dealing with an injury that limits me to standing about an hour so I have lots of time to play around with the camera. But I miss my lathe time.Your work is great both turning and photography.Your zoo shots look like they could be in Nat Geo.