My D-Way spindle gouge got a tiny chip in the edge today. Really surprised me! Of course, the edges are sharper now, what with my new(ish) CBN wheel, but what would cause a chip (tiny, but noticeable)? I've been spindle turning cocobolo and bubinga.
.... and only one time did I try to prevent that by catching a skew, trip to emerge (almost severed a tendon) and lessen learned, let it fall let it fall let it fall .
My D-Way spindle gouge got a tiny chip in the edge today. Really surprised me! Of course, the edges are sharper now, what with my new(ish) CBN wheel, but what would cause a chip (tiny, but noticeable)? I've been spindle turning cocobolo and bubinga.
I have read that the cheaper HHS tools can be "less hard" past the first part of the tool, e.g., only a portion of the working end of the tool is tempered well. The D-Way tools, and other quality HSS, are quality steel all the way to the top. I recently reground the spindle gouge to be closer to 40 degrees (rather than 45), so the edge was thinner, no doubt, might be a combination of that and wood contamination (and user technique?).My spindle roughing gouge is a no name High Speed Steel tool that I had sharpened to a 35 degree cutting edge. I used it that way for years but lately it seems like it's chipping easily so I backed it off to 45 degree grind. I seems to be holding up much better now. Don't know what caused it to start chipping unless the hardening through the bar was not consistent and since it's about 20 years old and I've ground away about an inch and half this new are simply might be harder and more brittle than the edge when it was a new tool.
I remember seeing a glint or two in the bubinga after turning the lathe off. Must have been something evil in there.D way tools I'm sure are quite well made so it's possible that you hit some small hard particle buried in the wood. A lot of woods have sand imbedded in them and will really beat up a tool edge.
Dave's tools are 64-66. I know some people think that's "too hard" but I don't hear complaints from the people who've used them for a long, long time.Most tools are hardened to 58 rockwell or harder. If the edge is thin it will chip quite easily if you hit something hard.
"Interrupted cuts" normally being like a natural edge bowl and such? For sure, I wasn't trying to make interrupted cuts on my bottle stoppers, but ya never know.If the tool has a very thin edge like one of mine that I use for finial and similar work the edge doesn't have much supporting metal behind it which makes it more susceptible to chipping. M42 is a high cobalt steel that is very hard. It is more chip resistant than most other high speed steels, but it can still chip especially from impacts that might occur during interrupted cuts of hard wood.
Yep, that was noticeable!Sharpening after a chip takes a lot more passes on the wheel than a normal sharpening.
Looking back on the bubinga, that may be it....or like was said imbedded sand particle etc.
I've been using that tool for quite awhile now, this is the first nick in the edge, so I think it's OK.Just keep on turning it was probably just a onetime event, if not you’ll find out if it is just one particulate tool that does it or more
Now that takes skill!The other unusual skew accident was when it fell of the back of my lathe. landed point first right on the 220 cord that goes to the lathe.
Speaking of dropping sharp tools...being a commercial fisherman, my feet have learned (sometimes the hard/sharp way) to get out of the way. You should see the flying sharp knife in big seas dance.
Zach When I was doing my sharpening test to see how sharp I could get the 3 different types of steel I noticed that it took longer to get a super sharp edge on the Thompson tools than HSS tools. Now I didn't have a sample of Dave's tools and don't really know what type of steel he uses. However there is a factor in some tools that they call toughness that makes them harder to grind. That is a factor of what is in the steel.
If I understood Tom Wirsing's presentation on 10V, it really takes a CBN wheel to sharpen it well and quickly. Were you using a CBN for your tests?took longer to get a super sharp edge on the Thompson tools than HSS tools.
I considered this a chip -- or perhaps a "nick." Right at the cutting edge, could fit my pinkie fingernail just into it (perpendicular to the cutting edge). If I had had our new camera when it happened, I could have taken a macro, but alas....there is a difference between a 'chip' and a 'ding'.
Zach When I was doing my sharpening test too see how sharp I could get the 3 different types of steel I noticed that it took longer to get a super sharp edge on the Thompson tools than HSS tools. Now I didn't have a sample of Dave's tools and don't really know what type of steel he uses. However there is a factor in some tools that they call toughness that makes them harder to grind. That is a factor of what is in the steel.
Hard to say what could cause a chip. I would consider that there is a difference between a 'chip' and a 'ding'. For a chip, either you hit some thing really hard, or it is a weak spot in the metal and/or a very thin bevel/wing angle. The HSS is soft enough that if you hit some thing hard, you will get a ding, but it shouldn't chip some metal off the tool. Hitting it on another hard tool, or carbide might provide a good ding, but chip??? I don't know.
robo hippy
I considered this a chip -- or perhaps a "nick." Right at the cutting edge, could fit my pinkie fingernail just into it (perpendicular to the cutting edge). If I had had our new camera when it happened, I could have taken a macro, but alas....
They definitely don't need to be as hard as a file to chip. Drop one of your tools on the concrete tip first and you will usually get a small chip. none of our woodturning tools are even close to a files hardness.
Ahhhh, that distinction for terminology makes sense. Nope, it wasn't like a hand-flaked arrowhead.but I don't see that any metal actually flaked off which is what I would call a chip.
I have a bad habit of trying to cushion the fall of dropped things by "catching" it with a foot. So far I have resisted the urge to catch a turning tool with a foot.
Sorta like a pitcher who reaches up above his head, bare-handed, to instinctively catch a line drive whizzing by at 110 MPH.(I'm pretty good with that rule, but still need to fight the urge)
Yikes! Makes sense, though.Her best bet is to not also break her wrists or arms.
Yep. I love the little Comet lathe, with the OFF/On switch on the right. I have a remote switch box to mount to the Jet 1236 with magnets, will place it where it's appropriate for each activity. The stock switch on that lathe is very, very sticky, so not only will it be nice to have a switch away from the headstock, but also to have one that's easy and quick to flick.This is also why I modified my lathe to have the controls be remote from the headstock.
... Which reminds me of a saying…
If it first you don't succeed, maybe skydiving isn't the sport for you.
Oh, now that's really going to encourage new woodturners!or ....
If at first you don;t succeed then maybe losing is more your style.
Oh, now that's really going to encourage new woodturners!
@Bill Boehme what a great time to thank you for moderating the forum.I get my motivation and words of encouragement here.
Oh, now that's really going to encourage new woodturners!
or ....
If at first you don't succeed then maybe losing is more your style.