Which Chuck to buy?

[Jay Coulson]

barracude for $500?

Jake, I must admit that I have not seen or even heard of a barracuda chuck that costs that much. You can spend that on a few of the chuck manufacturers mentioned in this thread IF, you include jaws or perhaps numerous sets of jaws. Yes, you can spend considerably more than that for the fully tricked-out Vicmarc multi-axis chuck. Otherwise, I am not personally aware of a $500 4 jaw chuck.
Good luck in your chuck search.
J

Not ever using any of these chucks this gets confusing I see a wide range of prices from an $89 self centering chuck at PSI to $500 for a Baracuda. Is there really that much difference in quality?
Seems everyone has their favorite chuck. What are the primary differences betweens the ones suggested above and what features should I be looking for. I look at all these chucks and they all look the same to my uneducated eye so I'm having alot of trouble deciding Seems most come with #2 jaws and all seem to have pretty much the same add on accessories. Most of my projects will be bowls (upto 12") and candlesticks and such. I don't make pens. Thanks again for helping work thru this.

 

[Joe Gorman]

Jake, I have a couple barracuda2 chucks and they are around $200 from Psi... in fACT I THINK YOU CANGET THEM FOR ABOUT $180.00. As I stated before, if you are on a mini and staying on a mini, I think they are hard to beat for the money. If you intend to go to a full size lathe, I would recommend something more substantial than the barracudaa2.

For that $500 price you sited, you can get just about any chuck out there and some additional jaws.

If you are staying on a mini and have 500 to spend then vicmarc 90 or talon with extra jaws would be a better selection than the barracuda2 but for $200 you can get the barracuda2 TI with 3 or 4 sets of jaws.

 

[odie]

Folks,
this thread began with a member asking a question about a chuck. A vitally necessary part of our wood turning lives. So, with perhaps 5 different manufacturers that are familiar to most everyone, how could this member requesting some advice or, anyone reading and patricipating in the thread avoid names of producers, price range, type of lathe etc? so, yes there has been some embellishment on the theme which is unavoidable but, in reading the posts, it looks like some basic chuck utilization info has been exchanged which, is pretty healthy don't you think?
It would be boring and, un-informative if, the responses were short, one line replies such as "buy a Nova"--with no supporting opinion as to why, personal experiences and yes guys, price. As a matter of fact, I believe that the gentleman who started this thread qualified his question by adding the criteria of price as being an issue as well. Just curious, in which alternative direction would you expect this thread to go?
J

Yep.....correct, Jay......

It's hard to make comments that don't offend those that try to read between the lines looking for self-aggrandizing motives of other posters.

We all have opinions.....sometimes those opinions differ from others......and, this is exactly what most of us are looking for in the first place. We have our ideas about how things should be done, but are open minded enough to seek out what others think. Sometimes, this is the basis for changing our own opinions, and methods. I can say for certain that many of those who post to this forum have made me see things differently than I had previously......but, of course, not in all cases. Some of us also understand that what works well for our own needs, doesn't necessarily hold true for everyone else......or ANYBODY else, for that matter. As a result of my willing to discuss and be open to influence, I have altered my shop methods, procedures, attitudes, etc......and, I find this to make me an overall better turner. This is why I'm participating on this forum......because it makes me better at what I do, and forces me to see things from other perspectives. Sometimes it does nothing more than confirm my beliefs, and there is a certain satisfaction in coming to that conclusion. At other times, it makes me reconsider previously held "truths" I thought were without question.

Many of us have been around turning long enough to have gone through a progression of ways to accomplish a particular task. Others will never allow their methods to be exposed to scrutiny.....but, those of us who do, are going to benefit tremendously for that small bit of self-contemplation that others might find invasive in their own little world.

ooc

 

[Jay Coulson]

chucks...

Not sure that I see the relevance of this comment as pertaining to the initial question which was posed to the forum. In point of fact, the member who started the post was, I believe geniunely and openly requesting more educated opinions which were backed by experience of ownership, utilization and knowledge so as to best make a choice of which chuck to consider purchasing for his particular application. The initial "chain-saw" aspect" comment and susequent posts there-by related are/were, impertinent, irrelevant and,un-called for. This thread had absolutely nothing to do with anyone posting "drivel" or, being the center of anyones' universe. I would like to think that the folks who posted replies, for the most part endeavoured to share their experience of ownership, utilization, functionality, ease of operation and price to best help this member make an educated purchase of a new chuck.Don't know which road that you travel that posts signs regarding self-indulgence but, I'd recommend finding a different route to your destination.

Drivel in the form of "mine's better than yours." Or, more generally, I am the center of my universe, and ignore overlaps with other folks' universes. Seen in roadway traffic every day, sometimes twice on Sunday.

 

[KurtB]

Which Chuck to Buy

Jay, I believe that Joe's comment was simply a response to a question asked by another member, not a general comment about the thread. This thread has been, IMHO, well above a 'chainsaw' thread in that it has directly addressed many of the pros and cons of various chucks - somthing that is always useful to many woodturners.

As far as the topic here, I would encourage anyone thinking about buying a chuck to buy the best they can afford. It is one of the more significant purchases for using the lathe safely and productively.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Thanks, Kurt. That was it.

If price is a primary consideration, I'd suggest considering Grizzly's clone of the Vicmarc - about $100 with one set of jaws, and about $20 each for two other sizes. Although not stated as a feature by either Grizzly or Vicmarc, both chucks include index holes on the rim - 24 for Grizzly, and 32 for Vicmarc. You're on your own to devise a latching mechanism.

Numbering the jaw contact points is an accommodation to manufacturing tolerance in the jaws' construction. As far as I can tell, the jaw sets are turned from a solid piece of metal attached to a master plate, then cut into four parts on separate machinery; any deviation from perfectly radial cuts is unimportant, because the jaws are still concentric if they're attached to the chuck in their original configuration. Why else would the jaws be numbered in the first place? And you can use the same trick in making custom jaws for sizes that might be inappropriate in standard jaws; even plywood or mdf could be suitable, and Vicmarc sells pre-cut blocks of Nylon for that purpose.

 

[Jay Coulson]

Chucks...shucks...sorry!

Thanks Kurt. I went back and read the sequential threads and can see that you are absolutely correct. The chainsaw comments were related to an initial comment that was made by 1 individual. I have found the vast majority of the comments to be to the point and, addressing the subject at hand. I apologize to both you and Joe for, taking a few irrelevant responses out of context. Might be best if some folks thought a little more before posting a completely irrelevant and, destructive comment.
So, again my apologies.
How's this?....After trying a variety of the chucks that are available for purchase, I personally prefer Vicmarc chucks.
J

Jay, I believe that Joe's comment was simply a response to a question asked by another member, not a general comment about the thread. This thread has been, IMHO, well above a 'chainsaw' thread in that it has directly addressed many of the pros and cons of various chucks - somthing that is always useful to many woodturners.

As far as the topic here, I would encourage anyone thinking about buying a chuck to buy the best they can afford. It is one of the more significant purchases for using the lathe safely and productively.

 

[Jake Truxal]

Hi guys, thanks to everyone for their great input.

I spent the last few days looking at the websites for Vicmarc 100/120, SuperNova2, Oneway Talon, Grizzly (Vicmarc knockoff), Barracuda2 and Barracuda 2 Special Edition. It looks like only the Vicmarc and Oneway are avaiable with my spindle size (3/4 X 10 tpi). I could get a 1 x 8 tpi adapter and use any of the others.

The concensus seems to be that dovetail jaws hold beter than straight jaws so I was set on dovetail jaws until I looked at the Barracuda 2 Special Edition that comes with jaws #1, #2, #3, Pin Jaws, Screw Chuck, Spindle adapter,, Indexing Attachment, Small Flat Jaws, 5/8" Super Center. Seems like that's just about everything I would ever need for $199.

I'm a bit concerned about getting the Barracuda because each of you that had one said that you upgraded to another chuck. Can you clarify what it was about the Barracuda that caused you to upgrade?

The Grizzly version of the Vicmarc for $99 plus addtional size jaws for $20 seems like a good deal too. Does anyone have experience with this chuck that you can talk me into or out of buying it?

I guess my 3rd choice would be the SuperNova 2 for $139, but then I'd still need to buy any other accessories I needed.

My current lathe is 40" with a 6" swing. It is a dual tube lathe, so definitely not the best. I'd like to upgrade lathes if I get an opportunity but I was laid off after spending the last 20 years with the same company and my plan right now is semi-retirement, so until I get a better handle on how well I'm going to be able to live off of my savings, I'm a bit reluctant to splurge on a new lathe. Most of what I would be making is bowls and platters upto 12" diameter and candlesticks.

Thanks in advance for your additional help in helping me decide.

 

[Richard Baker]

The Grizzly version of the Vicmarc for $99 plus addtional size jaws for $20 seems like a good deal too. Does anyone have experience with this chuck that you can talk me into or out of buying it?

Jake, I would not want to talk you into or out of anything, but I do have two of the $99 Griz chucks and have been satisfied with them. As I have said before, they grip the wood firmly and cause it to rotate when the lathe is turned on. I like the hex key operation. The first one was only $79 at the time, and I liked it well enough to buy a second one at $99 and an extra jaw set. When I got a different lathe also bought a new insert to change the first chuck from 3/4-16 to 1-1/4-8 thread, about $18 I think. If you can reasonably afford the high dollar stuff, by all means have at it if you wish. But it isn't necessary just to spin the wood. Hope this is helpful. BTW there's a man on another forum who has three of the Griz chucks and is also satisfied with them.

 

[john lucas]

I also have the Grizzly chuck along with 2 of the original vicmarc's of which the Griz is a copy. It is a good chuck. Not as good as the Vicmarc's but it's pretty decent. My Vicmarcs seem to align things more accurately. For some actions this is necessary. For most of what I turn it doesn't matter. The Vicmarc doesn't rust as easily. The Grizzly has some sharp edges and the jaws don't close at the same rate and feel a little rough. Those are all minor things. The Vicmarc jaws and inserts will fit the Griz and vice/versa
As far as the jaw being numbered, I asked the vicmarc rep and he told me they number them because customers wanted it. The early chucks may have needed it and and customers got used to this. The new vicmarc jaws are all CNC produces and are so close to the same that you can put them on in any order and not tell the difference. I've tried, and I can't tell.

 

[Jake Truxal]

Have you guys used the Grizzly chucks to turn large diameters with success?
Is it easy to accurately rechuck if necessary?

 

[Joe Greiner]

I use my Grizzly chuck as the carrier for my largest Longworth chuck (DIY), about 12" diameter to just miss the lathe bed. This setup offers a few more opportunities for misalignment, but I haven't been disappointed. I use the Longworth mostly to finish the bottom of bowls, and we had a discussion not too long ago (on vacuum chucks, IIRC) about the futility of trying to work "a little way up the side" when finishing bowl bottoms.

I'm also using the Longworth setup to test turning the inside of some rings with multiple remounts, in lieu of a specialty chuck. So far, so good, but not perfect either..

Sanding can correct a lot of sins. Even optical instrument components are made this way, to some extent.

I'd hesitate to rush your decision. But since the thread started, the maximum cost difference between high and low amounts to about $20 per day (but actually more like $10), just to put things in perspective.

 

[Richard Baker]

Rechucking should be much the same regardless of brand. I always mark the #1 jaw position on the tenon in case rechucking is needed. Even if the chuck is mechanically perfect, the different areas of wood may compress a little differently under each of the four jaws, so it seems best to return the workpiece to the same position in the chuck.

 

[Jake Truxal]

Joe, I was planning to make a Longworth chuck when I got a chance. How many slots/buttons did you put on yours? You say you mount the Longworth chuck into the Grizzly chuck. How did you make the headstock side of the Longworth chuck to be able to mount on the Grizzly? The plans I was looking at just call for mounting to a faceplate.

It looks like the Grizzly comes in 5 sizes:
3/4 X 16
1 X 8
1 X 12
1 1/4 X 8
1 1/2 X 8

my spindle is 3/4 X 10, should I get the 1 X 8 Grizzly and get a 3/4 X 10 to 1 X 8 adapter from PSI?

 

[Joe Greiner]

Jake, I used six slots for the arcs, because it's easier to accurately lay out a hexagon with compass alone, than with other combinations of drafting instruments.

I used the Grizzly chuck for mounting to minimize the Longworth's smallest diameter. If you're satisfied with a larger small diameter, a faceplate would probably be less of a hassle. As things worked out, I later made two smaller Longworths (including one 4-button misadventure) for smaller yet (using hex nuts glued in the back disks), and there's now plenty of overlap of capacities.

Here's a link to its construction: http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/my-longworth-version-1-a-50923/

Images on that site should now be available to visitors. Please advise me of any difficulties. I can probably find the original pictures if necessary.

And here are links to the smaller ones:
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/my-longworth-version-2-a-51456/
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/my-longworth-version-3-a-52167/
One of those threads contains some links to other Longworth citations.

I'm not sure how I would proceed if I were starting over. The first version of anything provides "learning opportunities." And my repertoire of how to do things wrong grows almost daily. All kidding aside, an adapter to a larger size would allow re-use on your next lathe, with the possible deficiency of more wobble for now.

 

[Jake Truxal]

Joe, thanks very much for the info. Are Screw Bumpers still your recommended use for buttons?

 

[Joe Greiner]

Screw bumpers work pretty well, but they're not very deep. And they should be available in most hardware stores.

Rubber "corks" for laboratory apparatus are available in more sizes, usually with a hole in the middle. But lab suppliers might be hard to find. There seems to be some growth in home-brewing beer, and Pittsburgh might have one or two sources of similar "corks"; there's only one such store in Tallahassee.

I suggest you have all the components in hand before final construction, to avoid unpleasant surprises.

To test the water about finishing bowl bottoms, for while I used a plywood disk on a faceplate; turned a groove to mate with the rim, and taped the bowl to the disk across the back of the faceplate. There's an article about it in "Lathes and Turning Techniques - The Best of Fine Woodworking" (ISBN 1-56158-021-X), by Betty Scarpino - now Editor of the AAW Journal. I turned new grooves, and replaced the disk, as needed. I still use the tape on the Longworth for insurance.