- Joined
- May 16, 2005
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Cleaned off the old beast enough to take the pictures attached of how to work from behind a piece. Apologies for not taking the best photos, but it's easy enough to see what's going on. The small gap would be at least 3/8 larger if I used a chuck with an insert rather than my original prebored Nova (too lazy to swap from my new size), or if I used a spacer on the spindle, longer jaws, different hold, different profile on the work, etc.
Why would anyone do such a thing except for a demonstration? To correct the obvious difference in rim thickness that sometimes creeps up on you as you try to get things slim and svelte. It's certainly an emergency procedure only, as it has the end grain which puckered out smacking the tool twice per revolution, and the tool moving in a direction away from the reference face of the chuck. Light touch demanded or jam circle from the other side! After all, your'e tapping and pushing, just like trying to loosen a tight grip.
I've also used it for refinish work, where the piece had enough thickness to turn off the old finish. No better than a jam chuck and reverse, just a bit faster.
When the kids bought me the bowl steady (Oneway), I found out that it could support the outside of a bowl against deformation as well as stabilize vibration which developed from such, without the risk of those half cut, half burn injuries you can pick up by supporting with your hand. Added bonus that it could be stored assembled and ready to slip in behind the turning by exploiting the gap bed. Even cheated a bit by making a wooden "bridge" to go across the gap for extremely shallow platters. Not that I'd go back from the 3000, whose other qualities outweigh mere convenience.
Why would anyone do such a thing except for a demonstration? To correct the obvious difference in rim thickness that sometimes creeps up on you as you try to get things slim and svelte. It's certainly an emergency procedure only, as it has the end grain which puckered out smacking the tool twice per revolution, and the tool moving in a direction away from the reference face of the chuck. Light touch demanded or jam circle from the other side! After all, your'e tapping and pushing, just like trying to loosen a tight grip.
I've also used it for refinish work, where the piece had enough thickness to turn off the old finish. No better than a jam chuck and reverse, just a bit faster.
When the kids bought me the bowl steady (Oneway), I found out that it could support the outside of a bowl against deformation as well as stabilize vibration which developed from such, without the risk of those half cut, half burn injuries you can pick up by supporting with your hand. Added bonus that it could be stored assembled and ready to slip in behind the turning by exploiting the gap bed. Even cheated a bit by making a wooden "bridge" to go across the gap for extremely shallow platters. Not that I'd go back from the 3000, whose other qualities outweigh mere convenience.
